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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff North : ... : Photo
By: Trad Nanny When: Dec 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fuzzy climbing?!?!!? How did you lure him in?
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point East : Rupley Towers
By: Trad Nanny When: Dec 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A little confusing to find these via directions from the current guidebook because of the 2010? construction. The trail is about 500ft from the main parking lot and starts down a short paved drainage. Follow the trail a bit right then cut left behind Tower "A" and back around to the front.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point West : ... : Old Man (5.9)
By: Trad Nanny When: Dec 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Totally classic, hardest moves are unprotected right off the deck. Nail those and cruise the rest of the way. A rap down the N face with a 70m takes you back to the packs easily.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point West : ... : Agatha Christie (Direct) (5.8)
By: Trad Nanny When: Dec 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are much better climbs around Windy Point than this one, turn around and do "Old Man" 5.9 for one.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point West : ... : Mean Mistreater (5.10c)
By: Trad Nanny When: Dec 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: To confirm all hangers are still in place except for one missing off the two bolts next to the rap anchors for P1. I.E. rap anchors with chains still in place plus one bolt and one hangerless stud.
Pretty casual until the crux on P2, I thought more like a 10-. The crux can be well protected by a green C3 a bit higher than the bolt but the bolt is bomber too.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point West : ... : Rich and Dave Route (5.8+)
By: Trad Nanny When: Dec 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, lots of different techniques on this one, did it in one pitch to the Mean Mistreater anchors with a 70m.
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Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : G Dodge Ice : Stephens Falls : Photo
By: Trad Nanny When: Dec 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't bother Woodchuck, nice for laps but not too interesting. Go to Wyalusing for some legit ice. However, I used to do a "Round Robin" every year of Stephens, Cox Hollow and Lone Rock for a solid day of ice.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Tom's Thumb : Sacred Datura Direct (5.9 PG13)
By: Trad Nanny When: Dec 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Starting on Succubus into this must be the non-direct?
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake
By: Trad Nanny When: Dec 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey, did anyone climb anything hard and scary this year? Tell us about it!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : The Stretcher (5.9+)
By: Trad Nanny When: Nov 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Less than a year in ColoRADo and you already want to bolt everything? Figures.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Real Hidden Valley Boulderi... : Turtle Rock Circuit : Shipwreck Boulder
By: Trad Nanny When: Nov 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's a sign on the north side of the boulder declaring that side closed but nothing on the Ship Wreak side.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Wes... : Sphincter Quits (5.9+ R)
By: Trad Nanny When: Nov 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.9 moves and if you get lucky with the gear it protects just fine.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Bill's Buttress : Derek Smalls' Crack (5.10a/b)
By: Trad Nanny When: Nov 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Burt, you guys sure are adding to my return to WI tick list. Keep it up!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Bro's Before Holes (5.10c)
By: Trad Nanny When: Nov 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's currently a left-behind anchor up there, the tri-cam and purple nut are recent but the rest might be pretty old and is on shallow nuts. The anchor ought to be at the top of the business, under the hourglass choss but that would require large cams or (ahem!) hardware.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Stratocaster Area : Unknown (5.10d)
By: Trad Nanny When: Nov 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: WTF? This climb is pretty much junk. Just about every hold was suspect and it only got worse as you get higher. In addition there was what looked like a mess of glue that was mixed too thin and then ran all over. Not to mention the moves weren't too great either.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : ... : Photo
By: Trad Nanny When: Nov 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Clipped the pin and prayed I assume? Protected well after that I thought, I was considering replacing the pin.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain
By: Trad Nanny When: Oct 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A "Left Section" could be added here to separate routes like Mongolia Thunder Pussy and Green Savior as the aren't really approached from the middle. Getting to these routes was probably easiest by going to the swamp slabs and then traversing on the pine tree ledge.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : Green Savior (5.8)
By: Trad Nanny When: Oct 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Belaying just post the "window" a 70m took this all the way to nice belay ledge just below the top.
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Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishing ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Trad Nanny When: Oct 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Your definition states that all property is owned by the community, this is not the case here. There is private property in our system but the above route lies in public property. If you want to label me a communist that's fine, it's a pretty good idea in theory but public property in our capitalist system is still public property. So, your point doesn't really go anywhere.
As for what people think about me, I couldn't care less. I'm here to present the ideas with rationale and hope that a few ... more >>
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Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishing ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Trad Nanny When: Oct 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Communist"?!?!? This is getting too good! Been watching too much Fox News I think.
If height doesn't matter then why did Glenn make a point of it here: "Am I seeing that photo right? It looks like a 15' boulder problem with 4 bolts on it." And you here: "So we have 3, 100ft traditional routes(did you put in any bolts?) With a minor approach and that may have been climbed before. You spent what an hour "cleaning" them?" So now you are telling me scale doesn't matter?!!? You ma... more >>
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Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishing ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Trad Nanny When: Oct 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: So, if the "community" agreed that stealing a car was ok, you would agree? Just pointing out that your logic makes no sense ;)
Its this attitude that someone has someone has ownership over a public resource that causes a rift in the community. If people would simply give to the community and demand nothing in return we would all be better off.
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Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishing ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Trad Nanny When: Oct 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Most climbers agreeing doesn't make it right.
In your world, since this is so short, does it qualify for red tag status?
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Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishing ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Trad Nanny When: Oct 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: C'mon you can do better than that can't ya? This is like drowning a squirrel in a bucket.
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Location: WI : Castle Rock South (Fishing ... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Trad Nanny When: Oct 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I used to, but what fun is that? You are so hostile, find yourself some WI micro-brew and relax.
Capitalization is what separates us from the animals.
Ya know, it is time for a name change, how about "Red Tagger". Yes, I like it.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Peak : South Face : Jubilant Song (5.8) : Photo
By: Trad Nanny When: Oct 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was afraid to even step on that thing.
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