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Member Since: Apr 17, 2004
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
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Page Improvements = 3
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All 5704 | Routes 274 | Areas 80 | Photos 1374 | Page Improvments | Comments 1501 | Posts 881 | Stars 1039 | Ratings 555
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : ... : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 30, 2013

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Comments: Ben, what's with all the helmet nazi shit?!!? In WI we don't fall, duh.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: This boulder problem looks very run-out.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : Vulture Lookout : Magic Mushroom (5.12b/c)
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 7, 2013

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Comments: VINCE EVANS LED THIS THING! THIS MEANS THAT ANY DIRTY OL' SMELLY HIPPY CAN DO IT. SACK UP GENTLEMEN!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 7, 2013

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Comments: Dumb people also don't know the difference between "their" and "there". Sorry, couldn't resist this one!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : The Cleo Amphitheater : Colostomy (5.7)
By: Tradoholic When: Jul 27, 2013

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Comments: Hence, the name.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : El Segundo Buttress : Beckey Route (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Jul 8, 2013

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Comments: Good route, the slab 4th pitch was a nice cherry, save for the rivet! Replace all bolts, place one next to a crack but don't replace the rivet? I wonder the logic. Regardless, thanks for the new bolts, there's a few spicy moves.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Whitney : East Buttress (5.7)
By: Tradoholic When: Jul 8, 2013

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Comments: Never really exposed and only a few moves of 5.6 between ledges. Simul'd it but it probably would have been safer to solo. Remember to go right of Pee Wee and more to the left higher up for the easiest pitches.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East of the Qu... : February Wall : Bread and Jam (5.7+)
By: Tradoholic When: Jun 30, 2013

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Comments: Glad to see you are finding the esoteric stuff Josh!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff North : ... : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: Good to see more new problems from the WI crew!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : South Bluff Bouldering : Ghost Talus Field : ... : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: May 26, 2013

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Comments: Jay Knows...


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : Steinke Basin Bouldering : Steinke Wall : ... : Jack Bawkwards (5.12+)
By: Tradoholic When: May 26, 2013

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Comments: This needs a ropeless ascent!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : Northeast Face West (5.6)
By: Tradoholic When: May 20, 2013

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Comments: Straight forward and worth doing. Finishes the same as NW Farce in a notch with a small overhang.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : South Face - Left Side : The Innominate (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: May 20, 2013

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Comments: Looks like this is often over looked, it's about 1.5 pitches and worth a lap, not awkward for me and had some nice exposure. Take P1 past the overhanging part to a nice ledge.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Jensen's Jaunt (5.6)
By: Tradoholic When: May 20, 2013

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Comments: Definitely a fun one, I linked p2 and 3 with a 70m just barely. A #4 C4 will be very helpful for the airy step around. DO IT!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : The North Buttress : The Uneventful (5.5)
By: Tradoholic When: May 20, 2013

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Comments: Meh, this was pretty straight forward, follow the left side of the gully aiming for the big trees, the gully dissipates, look up and see the left facing dihedral, take it to the big ledge below the bent tree. Avoid the start of the bent tree pitch by going slightly right directly above the tree then back into the dihedral, it's 5.5.
The gully is a fukn minefiled of death blocks, tread carefully, only the bent tree pitch is any fun anyway.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Maiden Buttress : Fool's Rush (5.6)
By: Tradoholic When: May 13, 2013

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Comments: Both the guide book and the OP description is a bit lacking. My version: Go up the easy gully passing the first large overhang in a notch to the right. Above it is a nice ledge. Continue in the nice right-facing dihedral for a bit and then exit left onto the face, past the next overhang. I think the proper way to finish is to continue in the right facing dihedral but I followed some easier terrain to the left, but right of the White Maiden's Walkway. I will post some pics.

LOTS OF LOOSE BLOCKS ... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : South Bluff Bouldering : Ghost Talus Field : Fustercluck (V3)
By: Tradoholic When: May 3, 2013

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Comments: SUCH A GOOD NAME!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Sherlocked (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: May 1, 2013

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Comments: There's been some pontificating behind the scenes on weather or not this is a "new" route. For the purposes of MP it is because it hasn't been posted yet, however it has been TR'd before and surely named but I think "Sherlocked" is pretty good so unless Andy objects (he wouldn't) I would leave that.
For clarity regarding DL on MP I would remove the "R" rating until someone actually leads it, that allows strictly TR routes to be distinguished from lead/TR routes.
In addition my policy has alwa... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : Bird-Foot Buttress : American Dream Roof (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 30, 2013

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Comments: I don't believe the uber direct has been sent.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff Central : ... : Take a Stand (V3)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: Steve, didn't we call this Desalvo Slab? Or is that something different?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff Central : ... : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: This might be the long lost, and undone, Desalvo Slab.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : Wong Climb (5.8) : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 27, 2013

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Comments: I use the SP in this orientation, works better that way, easier to make clips.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Peter's Project (5.7) : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 24, 2013

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Comments: I have often used double rope technique at DL and elsewhere. Typically I use two skinny "single" rated ropes as either twins or halfs. As to what technique I use depends on the route and circumstances. I might go with twin style if I need two ropes for rappel for example. I might go with half style if the route wanders alot or has sketchy pro. I have also used two ropes to belay two followers at the same time, clipping one rope most of the time except in cases where I need to protect the first f... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : South Astro Dome : ... : Hex Marks the Poot (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: I thought this was a great route, anchors at the top of P1 and P2 are currently safe. I took it to the top per the suggestion of "john durr" on Primal Flake, finished with a nice no hands slab. No anchors at the very top, walked it off to the NW then traversed back around to the south side to our packs. Probably better to bring shoes and rap My Laundry and then walk back to packs from there.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Walk on the Wild Side (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: Make sure you start at the highest point of boulders leaning on the wall.

I think it's pretty standard to do this in two pitches.


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