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Member Since: Apr 27, 2007
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 3,973
Total Points: 115
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 0
17 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 139 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 16 | Page Improvements | Comments 25 | Posts 80 | Stars 15 | Ratings 2
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Middle Band

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b (2)

Trad, 2 pitches, 165'

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Old Woman - West Face

Jul 27, 2007

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
I was just a tasty snack for this hungry beast.

I was just a tasty snack for this hungry beast.

WY : Vedauwoo : ... : Horn's Mother (5.11a)

Sep 1, 2007

herb making tiers look easy, me making photoshop l...

herb making tiers look easy, me making photoshop look difficult

TN : The Tennessee Wall : ... : No More Tiers (5.11a)

Aug 1, 2007

bluffs, thundercrack is the obvious overhanging cr...

bluffs, thundercrack is the obvious overhanging crack

Australia : Mount Arapiles : The Bluffs

Jul 30, 2007

party at the billabong in 115 degree heat

party at the billabong in 115 degree heat

Australia : Mount Arapiles

Jul 30, 2007

atridae

atridae

Australia : Mount Arapiles : The Atridae

Jul 30, 2007

organ pipes in smokey light

organ pipes in smokey light

Australia : Mount Arapiles : The Organ Pipes

Jul 30, 2007

watchtower face

watchtower face

Australia : Mount Arapiles : The Watchtower Faces

Jul 30, 2007

p 1

p 1

Australia : Mount Arapiles : ... : The Second Coming (5.11b)

Jul 30, 2007

2nd pitch

2nd pitch

Australia : Mount Arapiles : ... : Reaper (5.11b PG13)

Jul 30, 2007

diedre

diedre

North America : Canada : ... : Diedre (5.8)

Jul 30, 2007

split pillar

split pillar

North America : Canada : ... : The Grand Wall (5.11a A0)

Jul 30, 2007

from the ground I thought I could protect this pit...

from the ground I thought I could protect this pitch, but alas, I downclimbed after some serious gear fiddling. Photo by Chris

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Solosby (5.10b R)

Jul 30, 2007

Steve B nearing the top of the 2nd pitch

Steve B nearing the top of the 2nd pitch

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Demon's Delight (5.11a PG13)

Jul 30, 2007

taken by janet

taken by janet

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Crime of the Century (5.11a)

Jul 30, 2007

hot rx

hot rx

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Hot Rocks (5.11b)

Jul 30, 2007

zack d.  taken by my mommy

zack d. taken by my mommy

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Hot Rocks (5.11b)

Jul 30, 2007

Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Be All, End All (5.11+)
By: climberz When: Jan 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Thank for the responses.
Have you guys ever broke a bolt? This really took me buy surprise. The metolious hanger is usually a happy sight.
Geir, yes that is the bolt in question. One of the two anchor bolts had the same extremely rusty look to it. It is equipped with a metolious rap hanger. Luckily (and thanks to the person who put the other bolt in) the upper bolt in the anchor is new with no visible corrosion. Thanks to the tucson locals for doing such a good job of keeping up your crags... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Be All, End All (5.11+)
By: climberz When: Jan 1, 2015

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Comments: Broken bolt!!!!!!!!!!

The first bolt of pitch 2 broke yesterday. This bolt was about 2' above the first pitch anchor. The bolt seems like it was used mostly to avoid a factor 2 fall onto the anchor. The climbing to the next bolt is not so difficult, so the route is still doable.

The leader hung on the bolt to help in the transition to leave the anchor. About four bolts up the leader fell on a new bolt at the crux. The rope straightening out broke the bolt that he had hung on moments... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park
By: climberz When: Oct 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: An opinion on the closing time at Staunton:

A misdemeanor for being out of the park late? This seems like an extremely aggressive solution to a problem. I don't want to lose my job or spoil the possibility of getting a job for being late getting back from a climbing area. Climbing takes time, and being late is an extremely common scenario.

Putting a time limit on doing something dangerous is a terrible idea. Getting down safely should be the priority of climbing parties. A punishment for be... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Post Office : Powder Monkey (5.11a/b)
By: climberz When: Sep 18, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A fixed nut is stuck where the crux gear goes. The WIRE is BROKEN. Bring a hammer to get this piece of junk out. It is a bit of a runout through the crux, and the broken wire is in the way of getting the best piece in at the crux. I was able to get a #3 BD nut but could have gotten a larger one with a bigger wire (guess the small wires do break) if the broken one is removed.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South Face Lower Buttress : Little Creatures (5.9)
By: climberz When: May 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Long pitch, I ran out of runners with 80' to go. Don't forget some small wires/rps. Good climbing, often big holds and lots of stances. Some lose rock. Anchor is 2 bolts reduced down to one smash link (never understood this practice, why have 2 bolts with only one link?) We left 2 junky biners, maybe they will be there for you or you may choose to leaves some.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : The Dispensary (5.10a)
By: climberz When: Nov 14, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Good climb.

The tree at the base of the climb has a large block leaning against it. This scared me, because I could not find any gear for the 1st 15 ft of climbing when you are already 40 feet up the ramp. I really wanted to sling the tree. I ended up doing this and had my belayer move toward a cave thinking that if I did fall and weighted the tree, the boulder might dislodge and crush my belayer, me, and possibily someone at the bottom of the hill. After building a nest 6 feet below the 1s... more >>


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Warbonnet Peak : Black Elk (5.11a)
By: climberz When: Aug 3, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: anyone have an opinion on new #4 camlot vs. old. "widefists" makes me think the new #4 might be tipped out, sure is light though.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Sobo : Bo Diddley (5.11c R)
By: climberz When: Jan 19, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: I put in a pink tricam as my first piece in the seam. A red would also go in and possibly be better. For me this made the pitch safe enough. Also got in a nest of RPs, but for me the tricam was by far the best of the bunch. If this gear blew, you would be lucky not to deck.

Awesome climbing!


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