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Belaying at Ouray


Member Since: Mar 26, 2007
Last Visit: Jun 6, 2014
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Point Rank: # 2,276
Total Points: 248
Last Year: 12
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76 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 574 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 33 | Page Improvements | Comments 63 | Posts 93 | Stars 334 | Ratings 49
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Orange Julius (5.10a R)
By: climber73 When: Sep 16, 2008

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Comments: I pulled over the top of the 5.8 section on pitch 5 (after THE classic traverse pitch) to find a chimney. This was a surprise to me. I led the chimney with nothing bigger than a #2 Camalot, but would not recommend it. Make sure you have a few big pieces going into this pitch (#4 & #5 C4 size). It is consistent with 5.6 / 5.7 grade at Vedauwoo if you are familiar with some of the chimney pitches there. Beyond the top of this pitch there is still 60m+ of easy climbing to the... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Cracker Jack (5.9)
By: climber73 When: Jul 19, 2008

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Comments: Anyone know why this beautiful crack is bolted? There must be a good reason.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Wind Ridge (5.8)
By: climber73 When: May 19, 2008

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Comments: One of the most enjoyable climbs I've done at Eldo. Very secure, pro everywhere, and just plain fun. I will definitely go back to climb it again. The bulge off the ledge is a blast!!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : The Bulge (5.7 R)
By: climber73 When: May 19, 2008

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Comments: Whew this thing is runout... but really fun!!! Reminds me of some really fun face climbs at Red Rocks. Make sure you're solid at the grade before getting on this thing. I was able to get 6 pieces (not including anchors) for the entire climb. The 5.9 is the softest I've climbed at Eldo. It's actually more like 5.7. Enjoy!!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Sidetrack (5.9)
By: climber73 When: Apr 21, 2008

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Comments: Between the small roof at the end of the hand crack on P5, and the final 5.9 roof, you don't need to go left. You can go straight up through the seams and broken crack systems at 5.8+R (not as hard as the short traverse on the face below the handcrack P5). The last piece of gear I was able to get was 5 or 6 ft over the lip of the small roof. I gunned for the top of the face and a solid #0.4 Camalot. This section is fun but committing. If you get through the 5.8 runout at the bottom wi... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Chicken Eruptus (5.10 R)
By: climber73 When: Nov 6, 2007

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Comments: I think that many of the routes at Red Rocks are soft for the grade. This felt right on for 10b. Definitely exciting pulling some of those moves above gear and bolts, but definitely not harder than 10b.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Plan F (5.11-)
By: climber73 When: Nov 6, 2007

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Comments: The first pitch is definitely 5.9. The move to the chains has slick feet, but if you get your weight over them they're OK. Definitely creepy, but OK. Didn't do the 2nd pitch. Looks pretty darn bold.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Disney Point (5.10+) : Photo
By: climber73 When: Oct 11, 2007

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Comments: I bet the only thing holding that cam in place is a little good karma.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - North Side : Fun Stuff (5.8)
By: climber73 When: Oct 8, 2007

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Comments: This is a really fun route. Like several other J-Tree routes, the first 10 feet don't really count in the rating. The start was hard, but the rest of the climbing was easy and fun at 5.8.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Minimum Crag : Lunchables (5.12-)
By: climber73 When: Sep 25, 2007

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Comments: I've been getting shut down or working sections of moves on 11c-12a on the front range for the past few months and haven't sent a 12a yet. I almost flashed this thing on day 2 of a crankin weekend. Clipped the last bolt and couldn't hang on to the chains while fighting the pump. This felt easier than most 12a climbs I've tried to date & would be a great first 12 for the aspiring mid-11 sport climb leader. No single hard move, just pumpy, pumpy, pumpy.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holy Saturday : Flake (5.8+)
By: climber73 When: Sep 16, 2007

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Comments: I'm seeing a pattern... 5.8s are hard here. The more I climb at Vedauwoo, the stronger I feel everywhere else!!


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : Wall With a View : Route with a View (5.10b/c)
By: climber73 When: Sep 12, 2007

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Comments: This is an excellent route for the Palace. If you hike up to climb on Citadel, run over and climb this route. It is the best route on the Wall with a View. The moves are fun and the rock is really solid for the Palace.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Catacomb : Crack a Smile (5.12a)
By: climber73 When: Sep 8, 2007

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Comments: Only 2 wires left in the crack as of today. Bring gear to lead.


Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Scud Area : Doggin' Dude (5.9+)
By: climber73 When: Sep 3, 2007

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Comments: We thought this was a 5.8 as indicated in the guide book. It felt like 5.8 except for the definite crux at the 2nd bolt. This was our last climb after 2 days at Iris & I tweaked my finger on the mono at the crux. Fun route, but watch out for that mono!!


Location: WY : Wild Iris
By: climber73 When: Sep 3, 2007

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Comments: Some bolts have been cut at Cowboy Poetry wall, but whoever cut them left the first bolt in place. I don't completely understand the intent of the bolt cutter, but I'm not a local. Sometimes the bolts really blend into the rock and are hard to see. This may be common sense, but make sure you can see the bolts and the anchors before starting any routes.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Citadel : Let Down Your Hair (5.10b)
By: climber73 When: Aug 29, 2007

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Comments: The top of this climb is fun the bottom is OK. Rapunzel is an overall better route.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Zipper (5.8+)
By: climber73 When: Aug 12, 2007

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Comments: The 1st pitch crux is fun as long as you have big gear. My wife lead the 2nd pitch as a squeeze, tunneling into the rock above the 1st belay. I tried to do this on lead but had to back down and set up a belay as my chest and hips were too big to fit through the squeeze (I have a 36 inch waist and she has like a 19 inch waist). I followed the 2nd pitch via the snap variation.

Save some gear for the 3rd pitch top. There are 20+ feet of climbing beyond what you can see from the belay ledge. ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: climber73 When: Aug 6, 2007

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Comments: Took multiple whippers directly onto the pin below the chimney on July 28. I weigh 200lb + gear and the pin held. I had it backed up with a purple TCU. Thinking offset Alien in the slot out left for the next round....


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Liquid Acrobat (5.12a R)
By: climber73 When: Jul 23, 2007

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Comments: I led this route with all cams, placing gear on lead after working the moves out on TR. There is an amazing yellow TCU just before the crux with a great stance to place. I fell at the crux, hung for a few minutes, then fired the crux and put in a #2 Camalot at the wonderful hand jam section after the crux. Yes "R", but great gear. I need to go back for the redpoint (or headpoint I guess).

Make sure you have an excellent belayer for this one.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Catacomb : The Hot Zone (5.9-)
By: climber73 When: Jul 17, 2007

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Comments: I liked this route so much I led it 2x in a row!!! My favorite at Monastery so far....


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Vestibule : Arch Crack (5.11b)
By: climber73 When: Jul 14, 2007

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Comments: This route is really fun. Did this after Stolen Land, and it felt totally cruiser.

We did the route between Stolen Land and Arch Crack as well. Felt like 5.9ish. Definitely worthwhile route.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Slat (5.7)
By: climber73 When: Jul 11, 2007

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Comments: This is a really fun 5.7 with just a touch of offwidth thrown in for fun. I definitely recommend this route!!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Piece of Dirt (5.11a)
By: climber73 When: Jun 26, 2007

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Comments: If you think this feels run out or 11ish, go and lead Fall Wall and Gunga Din. After those this route feels like a pretty laid back 5.10+. 5.9ish laybacking at the bottom, 1 move 5.10+ crux, finish on 5.9+ and easier slab.

I really enjoyed this route.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : Fall Wall (*the route) (5.10a)
By: climber73 When: Jun 21, 2007

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Comments: Excellent, really fun route! A bit creepy, but fun!

When I lead the route, I went up the overhang pretty close to my pro. There are a couple of good nubs and some high feet to pull thru. When I TR'd the route to clean I went further right to the larger nub / rock that is more directly under the anchor. Does anybody know which section is correct?

I lead Gunga Din the day before Fall Wall, and the crux of fall wall felt harder to me. Maybe I was just tired but it definitely felt tough... po... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Hesitation Blues (5.11b)
By: climber73 When: Jun 14, 2007

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Comments: Did the first pitch last night and set up a TR for some friends. Technical and sequency 5.10. The 2nd pitch looks amazing!! Planning to go back and get on it soon...


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