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Belaying at Ouray


Member Since: Mar 26, 2007
Last Visit: Jun 6, 2014
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Point Rank: # 2,212
Total Points: 248
Last Year: 12
Last 30 Days: 0
75 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has climber73 been climbing?










Contributions


All 574 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 33 | Page Improvements | Comments 63 | Posts 93 | Stars 334 | Ratings 49
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : The Heap : Storm Watch (5.10c)
By: climber73 When: Aug 9, 2009

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Comments: Great pitch, and great warmup for Spectreman.

Take a nut and place it in the crack at the top to keep the rope out of the crack where the crack kicks back and transitions to lower angle slab. The crack is perfect rope size here. I fell seconding and wedged the rope into the crack. Could not pull the rope from the top and was too far down to free from the bottom. We were able to self rescue, but it took some time away from the other climbs we wanted to do.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : The Barb (5.10-)
By: climber73 When: Aug 9, 2009

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Comments: This is a GREAT route!! This is a route I will do again... pure joy!!

Climbing the route in 4 pitches is the way to go. With a **70m** rope this is pretty easy... just need to do a little simul-climbing on p1. At the top of P1, belay at the Left end of the grassy middle earth ledge. There is a 4-5' tall shark fin flake coming out of the ledge belay here and you can get to the next ledge atop the twin corners w/ no problem.

There is plenty of gear in the 5.9 diagonal pitch. You just need t... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Big Thompson Canyon Ice : Upper Falls (WI2)
By: climber73 When: Dec 15, 2008

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Comments: Upper and Lower are out as of yesterday. -Zero- ice.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : Lunar Ecstasy (5.10 C2+)
By: climber73 When: Nov 5, 2008

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Comments: If you're shorter (I'm 5'9") you'll have no chance of reaching the .5 camalot placement on the Jarret finish. There are several options to get from the bolt to the cam placement... keep your hooks handy...

We took 3 sets of micro thru large DMM offsets up with us along with a set of tricams and lots of small cams. Didn't need the ballnuts. Did take 2 hooks with us and used them both a couple of times. A handful of screamers were nice to have in a few places.

Great route!! Enjoy!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Birdland (5.7+)
By: climber73 When: Nov 5, 2008

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Comments: Don't forget the thin gear. Bring small stoppers and small tcus if you're close to your limit.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Smear of Fear (WI5 M6 R)
By: climber73 When: Oct 13, 2008

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Comments: Bottom 1/3 of route is not formed up as of 10/12.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Alexander's Chimney (WI4 M4)
By: climber73 When: Oct 13, 2008

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Comments: Alexander's is still pretty skeletal as of 10/12... checked it out this weekend.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : Mineshaft Wall : Death and Disfiguration (5.11c)
By: climber73 When: Oct 8, 2008

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Comments: I worked this route a few weeks ago and broke off a good left hand hold just past the opening bulge moves. The grade of the route is probably still hard 11.


Location: International : South America : Peru : Cordillera Blanca : Photo
By: climber73 When: Sep 22, 2008

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Comments: Nice pic T!!!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Inside Straight (5.9)
By: climber73 When: Sep 16, 2008

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Comments: This rating seems to be pretty in-line with Vedauwoo ratings at 5.9. Don't expect a soft grade on this one.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Orange Julius (5.10a R)
By: climber73 When: Sep 16, 2008

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Comments: I pulled over the top of the 5.8 section on pitch 5 (after THE classic traverse pitch) to find a chimney. This was a surprise to me. I led the chimney with nothing bigger than a #2 Camalot, but would not recommend it. Make sure you have a few big pieces going into this pitch (#4 & #5 C4 size). It is consistent with 5.6 / 5.7 grade at Vedauwoo if you are familiar with some of the chimney pitches there. Beyond the top of this pitch there is still 60m+ of easy climbing to the... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Cracker Jack (5.9)
By: climber73 When: Jul 19, 2008

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Comments: Anyone know why this beautiful crack is bolted? There must be a good reason.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Wind Ridge (5.8)
By: climber73 When: May 19, 2008

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Comments: One of the most enjoyable climbs I've done at Eldo. Very secure, pro everywhere, and just plain fun. I will definitely go back to climb it again. The bulge off the ledge is a blast!!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : The Bulge (5.7 R)
By: climber73 When: May 19, 2008

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Comments: Whew this thing is runout... but really fun!!! Reminds me of some really fun face climbs at Red Rocks. Make sure you're solid at the grade before getting on this thing. I was able to get 6 pieces (not including anchors) for the entire climb. The 5.9 is the softest I've climbed at Eldo. It's actually more like 5.7. Enjoy!!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Sidetrack (5.9)
By: climber73 When: Apr 21, 2008

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Comments: Between the small roof at the end of the hand crack on P5, and the final 5.9 roof, you don't need to go left. You can go straight up through the seams and broken crack systems at 5.8+R (not as hard as the short traverse on the face below the handcrack P5). The last piece of gear I was able to get was 5 or 6 ft over the lip of the small roof. I gunned for the top of the face and a solid #0.4 Camalot. This section is fun but committing. If you get through the 5.8 runout at the bottom wi... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Chicken Eruptus (5.10 R)
By: climber73 When: Nov 6, 2007

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Comments: I think that many of the routes at Red Rocks are soft for the grade. This felt right on for 10b. Definitely exciting pulling some of those moves above gear and bolts, but definitely not harder than 10b.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Plan F (5.11-)
By: climber73 When: Nov 6, 2007

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Comments: The first pitch is definitely 5.9. The move to the chains has slick feet, but if you get your weight over them they're OK. Definitely creepy, but OK. Didn't do the 2nd pitch. Looks pretty darn bold.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Disney Point (5.10+) : Photo
By: climber73 When: Oct 11, 2007

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Comments: I bet the only thing holding that cam in place is a little good karma.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - North Side : Fun Stuff (5.8)
By: climber73 When: Oct 8, 2007

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Comments: This is a really fun route. Like several other J-Tree routes, the first 10 feet don't really count in the rating. The start was hard, but the rest of the climbing was easy and fun at 5.8.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Minimum Crag : Lunchables (5.12-)
By: climber73 When: Sep 25, 2007

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Comments: I've been getting shut down or working sections of moves on 11c-12a on the front range for the past few months and haven't sent a 12a yet. I almost flashed this thing on day 2 of a crankin weekend. Clipped the last bolt and couldn't hang on to the chains while fighting the pump. This felt easier than most 12a climbs I've tried to date & would be a great first 12 for the aspiring mid-11 sport climb leader. No single hard move, just pumpy, pumpy, pumpy.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holy Saturday : Flake (5.8+)
By: climber73 When: Sep 16, 2007

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Comments: I'm seeing a pattern... 5.8s are hard here. The more I climb at Vedauwoo, the stronger I feel everywhere else!!


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : Wall With a View : Route with a View (5.10b/c)
By: climber73 When: Sep 12, 2007

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Comments: This is an excellent route for the Palace. If you hike up to climb on Citadel, run over and climb this route. It is the best route on the Wall with a View. The moves are fun and the rock is really solid for the Palace.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Catacomb : Crack a Smile (5.12a)
By: climber73 When: Sep 8, 2007

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Comments: Only 2 wires left in the crack as of today. Bring gear to lead.


Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Scud Area : Doggin' Dude (5.9+)
By: climber73 When: Sep 3, 2007

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Comments: We thought this was a 5.8 as indicated in the guide book. It felt like 5.8 except for the definite crux at the 2nd bolt. This was our last climb after 2 days at Iris & I tweaked my finger on the mono at the crux. Fun route, but watch out for that mono!!


Location: WY : Wild Iris
By: climber73 When: Sep 3, 2007

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Comments: Some bolts have been cut at Cowboy Poetry wall, but whoever cut them left the first bolt in place. I don't completely understand the intent of the bolt cutter, but I'm not a local. Sometimes the bolts really blend into the rock and are hard to see. This may be common sense, but make sure you can see the bolts and the anchors before starting any routes.


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