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Belaying at Ouray


Member Since: Mar 26, 2007
Last Visit: Jun 6, 2014
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Point Rank: # 2,261
Total Points: 248
Last Year: 12
Last 30 Days: 0
76 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 574 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 33 | Page Improvements | Comments 63 | Posts 93 | Stars 334 | Ratings 49
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Citadel : Let Down Your Hair (5.10b)
By: climber73 When: Aug 29, 2007

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Comments: The top of this climb is fun the bottom is OK. Rapunzel is an overall better route.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Zipper (5.8+)
By: climber73 When: Aug 12, 2007

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Comments: The 1st pitch crux is fun as long as you have big gear. My wife lead the 2nd pitch as a squeeze, tunneling into the rock above the 1st belay. I tried to do this on lead but had to back down and set up a belay as my chest and hips were too big to fit through the squeeze (I have a 36 inch waist and she has like a 19 inch waist). I followed the 2nd pitch via the snap variation.

Save some gear for the 3rd pitch top. There are 20+ feet of climbing beyond what you can see from the belay ledge. ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: climber73 When: Aug 6, 2007

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Comments: Took multiple whippers directly onto the pin below the chimney on July 28. I weigh 200lb + gear and the pin held. I had it backed up with a purple TCU. Thinking offset Alien in the slot out left for the next round....


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Liquid Acrobat (5.12a R)
By: climber73 When: Jul 23, 2007

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Comments: I led this route with all cams, placing gear on lead after working the moves out on TR. There is an amazing yellow TCU just before the crux with a great stance to place. I fell at the crux, hung for a few minutes, then fired the crux and put in a #2 Camalot at the wonderful hand jam section after the crux. Yes "R", but great gear. I need to go back for the redpoint (or headpoint I guess).

Make sure you have an excellent belayer for this one.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Catacomb : The Hot Zone (5.9-)
By: climber73 When: Jul 17, 2007

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Comments: I liked this route so much I led it 2x in a row!!! My favorite at Monastery so far....


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Vestibule : Arch Crack (5.11b)
By: climber73 When: Jul 14, 2007

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Comments: This route is really fun. Did this after Stolen Land, and it felt totally cruiser.

We did the route between Stolen Land and Arch Crack as well. Felt like 5.9ish. Definitely worthwhile route.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Slat (5.7)
By: climber73 When: Jul 11, 2007

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Comments: This is a really fun 5.7 with just a touch of offwidth thrown in for fun. I definitely recommend this route!!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Piece of Dirt (5.11a)
By: climber73 When: Jun 26, 2007

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Comments: If you think this feels run out or 11ish, go and lead Fall Wall and Gunga Din. After those this route feels like a pretty laid back 5.10+. 5.9ish laybacking at the bottom, 1 move 5.10+ crux, finish on 5.9+ and easier slab.

I really enjoyed this route.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : Fall Wall (*the route) (5.10a)
By: climber73 When: Jun 21, 2007

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Comments: Excellent, really fun route! A bit creepy, but fun!

When I lead the route, I went up the overhang pretty close to my pro. There are a couple of good nubs and some high feet to pull thru. When I TR'd the route to clean I went further right to the larger nub / rock that is more directly under the anchor. Does anybody know which section is correct?

I lead Gunga Din the day before Fall Wall, and the crux of fall wall felt harder to me. Maybe I was just tired but it definitely felt tough... po... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Hesitation Blues (5.11b)
By: climber73 When: Jun 14, 2007

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Comments: Did the first pitch last night and set up a TR for some friends. Technical and sequency 5.10. The 2nd pitch looks amazing!! Planning to go back and get on it soon...


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : The Cave Exit (5.7+)
By: climber73 When: Jun 9, 2007

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Comments: Did the cave exit a few hours ago. Really fun in a weird / unique climbing kind of way and didn't feel harder than 5.7.

The fixed pin is still there.


Location: CO : New Parking Lot at Lumpy Ri...
By: climber73 When: Jun 5, 2007

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Comments: We hiked to Sundance from the new parking lot this weekend. We live at 5000', are fairly acclimatized and in moderately good shape. 1 hour and 15 minutes from the car to the base of Sundance. Nice parking area with higher capacity and beautiful trail between the new and old parking.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Raindance Buttress : Raindance (5.10)
By: climber73 When: May 29, 2007

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Comments: I really really enjoyed leading this route. Fun climbing and great pro. This was some nice face climbing to mix up a day of mostly pure crack climbing.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Satterfield's Crack (5.8)
By: climber73 When: May 12, 2007

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Comments: This route feels like old school 5.8. I haven't been ejected off a 5.8 in a while and the start of this one got me. I love routes like this!!! A red C3 protects the start very nicely and kept me from ground fall. It is possible to rap with one rope if you catch the rap station about 40' from the ground and 15' to rappeller's left on the way down from the rap station at the top of this route (look for the small sandy ledge). If you do a double rope rap, watch out for the top of the flake ab... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Edwards' Crack (5.7)
By: climber73 When: May 12, 2007

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Comments: Did this route in 1 pitch with a 60 meter rope. I slid gear up the crack for 10+ feet in a few places to save gear. There is a great belay at the top. The only 5.7 on the route was at the very start and at the small roof... but this was also my first route at Vedauwoo.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Toot (5.10d)
By: climber73 When: May 1, 2007

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Comments: This is a really fun route if you're solid at 5.10. The start is hard but definitely felt like the crux to me.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fern Point : Mellifluous (5.11a)
By: climber73 When: Apr 23, 2007

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Comments: There is a good pee-nut or HB placement in the middle of the crux slab. This really helps to make the climb safer.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Duncan's Ridge : Roof Route (5.10)
By: climber73 When: Apr 23, 2007

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Comments: This is a great TR. The anchor at the top takes a couple of nuts and a #1 Camalot.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : White Whale (5.7)
By: climber73 When: Apr 23, 2007

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Comments: Fun route! It is possible to do this route in 2 pitches if you go past the tree at the usual P1 belay and keep running to the crack systems at the diagonal about 1/2 way from the tree up to the roof. If I recall correctly the belay took a hand size cam upside down under a flake (#1 or #2 Camalot) and a couple of nuts. We did this with a 60 meter rope, and there was snow on the ground so our starting point was maybe 3 or 4 meters above the ground proper. 1 belay instead of 2 = fas... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Texas Canyon : Texas Tower : South Face (5.11+) : Photo
By: climber73 When: Apr 6, 2007

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Comments: Wow. A legend in action. Thanks for posting!!!


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Chamber : Churchill Rejects (5.9+)
By: climber73 When: Apr 4, 2007

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Comments: Nice 5.9. Many bolts for the length of the climb. This is nice considering that the rock may not be 100% bomber in places. Fun route that I'm sure I'll climb many times in the future. Good warmup for the 5.10 and 5.11 climbs nearby.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : Mineshaft Wall : Monstrosity (5.10c)
By: climber73 When: Apr 4, 2007

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Comments: Pumpy 5.10 for sure!! The rock is pretty good and this is a fun route. Worth the trip across the Poudre.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Romulan Territory (5.10a)
By: climber73 When: Mar 29, 2007

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Comments: This route is fantastic!! I dumped half a set of pee-nuts into the crux pitch along with small cams. Well protected, aesthetic, beautiful route.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: First El Cap climb. The little details.Big Wall and Aid Climbingclimber73Feb 27, 2014
re: The 5 Biggest Safety-Related Myths in Rock ClimbingGeneral Climbingclimber73Jul 6, 2013
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