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Jasmine cruising the crux of Lower Eaves, Gunks 3/18/2012


Member Since: May 26, 2009
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 25 | Routes | Areas | Photos 6 | Page Improvements | Comments 8 | Posts 9 | Stars 2 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Funny Face (5.5)
By: cliffmama When: 9 hours ago

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Comments: The start is either of 2 left facing corners. The one on the left is easier. The one on the right takes you to a dirty, grassy ledge to mantle up on with nothing really useful to hold onto. 1st pitch had some messy grassy ledges, and a 30-40 foot runout. Not hard climbing, but not recommended for a leader not solid at 5.5.
1st pitch belay ledge Cedar Tree had rap slings & rings on it. WTF? It's basically a bush. I wouldn't want to rap on it!
At the GT ledge, there was no anchor, I traversed rig... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Cascading Crystal Kaleidosc... (5.8 PG13)
By: cliffmama When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Another serious accident was on the start of CCK P2 off the GT ledge a couple of weeks ago (August 2014). It's confusing where to start (I think the Williams and Swain books say different things), hard to protect and not far off the GT ledge and a bad result if you fall.

I prefer to start in the Updraft corner for just a short distance, then diagonal across the face to meet up with CCK. Bypasses the dangerous moves off the GT ledge, easy climbing (5.5) and easy to protect.

Also, a great link-... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks
By: cliffmama When: Jul 17, 2012

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Comments: For the latest Gunks Peregrine Falcon closure information watch the watch the Gunks Climbers' Coalition website, plus the Gunks Climbers' Coalition Facebook page or on twitter @gunksclimbers.

I also have general Gunks information for climbers and visitors at my website, cliffmama.com.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Ale 8 (5.12a/b)
By: cliffmama When: Jun 25, 2012

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Comments: Is the lower part of Ale 8 the easy slab/face climb to the immediate left of Cold Feet -> Giant Man? There's an anchor at the top before the roof. It doesn't fit the description of Chicken Heads, so I'm guessing this is the lower part of Ale 8.... Seemed easier than a 5.8, and certainly not a 5.12... maybe 5.6-5.7ish?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Sente (5.9)
By: cliffmama When: Apr 26, 2012

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Comments: Love this climb, great for those who like thin, balancy moves. Dicey first moves until you can get gear in - I'm 5'6" tall and I have to use the slopey ramp as a hold until I can reach the big horizontal. Then three bolts make the hardest section a well protected sport climb - it's very thin here but if you fell, you won't go far. Then the rest is easy trad. Tree has sling anchor on it, so easy to set up top rope from here to TR Sente, and Thin Slabs with a directional.


Location: NY : The Gunks
By: cliffmama When: Jul 1, 2011

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Comments: The Gunks Climbers Coalition, established in the fall of 2002, is an advocacy group dedicated to creating and maintaining sustainable opportunities for responsible climbing along the Shawangunk Ridge and surrounding areas. To keep up to date with Gunks related news, watch our website at gunksclimbers.org,,
or our Facebook Page, Twitter feed or join our [[GCC Mai... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : P38 (5.10b PG13)
By: cliffmama When: Aug 30, 2010

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Comments: For those who don't want to lead it, it's pretty straightforward to set up a toprope on it by ascending Radcliffe (class 4) and building an anchor above P38. You'll need some directional gear (because the crack is leaning), which can be set when rapping down the route after setting up your toprope anchor.

There are 2 ways to do the start. One is to pull the overhang directly below the crack. Another is to ascend slightly left of the crack, and once over the overhang, balance over right to th... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall : Antropov's Cold (5.11c)
By: cliffmama When: May 26, 2009

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Comments: If you have tiny fingers, you won't need to do a dyno move.
My tiny 12 year old (56 pounds) sent it today, and her fingers are so small, she was able to fit them into the crack and avoided the dyno.