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Jasmine cruising the crux of Lower Eaves, Gunks 3/...


Member Since: May 26, 2009
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 37 | Routes | Areas | Photos 11 | Page Improvements | Comments 13 | Posts 11 | Stars 2 | Ratings
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
The trail to the Lower Slabs is off to the right.

The trail to the Lower Slabs is off to the right.

WV : Seneca Rocks : ... : Comment

Aug 4, 2015

Sign as you enter Seneca Rocks. In case of emergen...

Sign as you enter Seneca Rocks. In case of emergency call 911. But no one could get a cell phone signal here...

WV : Seneca Rocks

Aug 4, 2015

Bright red Scarlet Tanager bird, seen at Seneca Ro...

Bright red Scarlet Tanager bird, seen at Seneca Rocks, WV.

WV : Seneca Rocks

Aug 4, 2015

My daughter Ariel on a 5.11a variation we made up ...

My daughter Ariel on a 5.11a variation we made up on the bottom of "Seldom Seen", Lower Slabs, Seneca Rocks. Climb the thin face just to the right of the route.

WV : Seneca Rocks : ... : Seldom Seen (5.7 R)

Aug 4, 2015

Jannette Pazer climbing Squiggles Direct, 2007

Jannette Pazer climbing Squiggles Direct, 2007

NY : The Gunks : ... : Squiggles Direct (5.10b R)

Oct 29, 2014

Jasmine cruising the crux of Lower Eaves, Gunks 3/...

Jasmine cruising the crux of Lower Eaves, Gunks 3/18/2012

NY : The Gunks : ... : Lower Eaves (5.9-)

Apr 26, 2012

Ariel on the crux of Lower Eaves, Gunks, 3/18/2012

Ariel on the crux of Lower Eaves, Gunks, 3/18/2012

NY : The Gunks : ... : Lower Eaves (5.9-)

Apr 26, 2012

Me leading a slab sport climb in Eleven Mile Canyo...

Me leading a slab sport climb in Eleven Mile Canyon, 2007. Photo by Stewart Green

cliffmama : Colorado Springs area, Colo...

Aug 30, 2010

Me leading Montezuma's Tower (5.7), Garden of the ...

Me leading Montezuma's Tower (5.7), Garden of the Gods, CO. 2007. Photo by Stewart Green

cliffmama : Colorado Springs area, Colo...

Aug 30, 2010

Me on a slab climb in Red Rock Canyon Open Space, ...

Me on a slab climb in Red Rock Canyon Open Space, Colorado Springs 2007. Photo by Stewart Green

cliffmama : Colorado Springs area, Colo...

Aug 30, 2010

Me leading P2 of Bonnie's Roof (5.8), Trapps, Gunk...

Me leading P2 of Bonnie's Roof (5.8), Trapps, Gunks, NY

cliffmama : Gunks, NY

Aug 30, 2010

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : Lower Slabs
By: cliffmama When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: The guidebook and description are confusing. While hiking up to observation deck, look for boulder and small unmarked trail that veers off to the right. This will take you directly to the Scuttle area.

The trail to the Lower Slabs is off to the right.
The trail to the Lower Slabs is off to the right.



Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : Lower Slabs : Seldom Seen (5.7 R)
By: cliffmama When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: We did some variations on top rope that made for interesting harder ascents. At the bottom, climb the thin face just to the right of the crack, group consensus 5.11a. Near the top, climb the face to the left of the route, group consensus 5.10a. YMMV.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : The Blackout (5.9-)
By: cliffmama When: Jul 9, 2015

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Comments: Today the bolt on the last pitch of The Blackout was replaced with a new, safer one, by Christian Fracchia of the Gunks Climbers Coalition.



Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Wonderland (5.8)
By: cliffmama When: Jul 9, 2015

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Comments: Manky bolt on Wonderland has been replaced with a new shiny one by the Gunks Climbers' Coaltion with support from the Mohonk Preserve, the Access Fund and the ASCA.



Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Arrow (5.8)
By: cliffmama When: Jul 9, 2015

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Comments: Turned out the bolts were rotten, presumably caused by galvanic corrosion in a mixed-metal bolt and hanger combination. Today Christian Fracchia of the Gunks Climbers' Coalition replaced them.

Video of rotted bolts on Facebook.




Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Carbs and Caffeine (5.11a)
By: cliffmama When: Jul 9, 2015

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Comments: The Gunks Climbers' Coalition has just replaced that old manky bolt on Carbs and Caffeine!

Here's the old one:


Here's the new one:



Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Funny Face (5.5)
By: cliffmama When: Sep 21, 2014

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Comments: The start is either of 2 left facing corners. The one on the left is easier. The one on the right takes you to a dirty, grassy ledge to mantle up on with nothing really useful to hold onto. 1st pitch had some messy grassy ledges, and a 30-40 foot runout. Not hard climbing, but not recommended for a leader not solid at 5.5.
1st pitch belay ledge Cedar Tree had rap slings & rings on it. WTF? It's basically a bush. I wouldn't want to rap on it!
At the GT ledge, there was no anchor, I traversed rig... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Cascading Crystal Kaleidosc... (5.8 PG13)
By: cliffmama When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Another serious accident was on the start of CCK P2 off the GT ledge a couple of weeks ago (August 2014). It's confusing where to start (I think the Williams and Swain books say different things), hard to protect and not far off the GT ledge and a bad result if you fall.

I prefer to start in the Updraft corner for just a short distance, then diagonal across the face to meet up with CCK. Bypasses the dangerous moves off the GT ledge, easy climbing (5.5) and easy to protect.

Also, a great link-... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks
By: cliffmama When: Jul 17, 2012

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Comments: For the latest Gunks Peregrine Falcon closure information watch the watch the Gunks Climbers' Coalition website, plus the Gunks Climbers' Coalition Facebook page or on twitter @gunksclimbers.

I also have general Gunks information for climbers and visitors at my website, cliffmama.com.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Hinterlands : Ale 8 (5.12a/b)
By: cliffmama When: Jun 25, 2012

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Comments: Is the lower part of Ale 8 the easy slab/face climb to the immediate left of Cold Feet -> Giant Man? There's an anchor at the top before the roof. It doesn't fit the description of Chicken Heads, so I'm guessing this is the lower part of Ale 8.... Seemed easier than a 5.8, and certainly not a 5.12... maybe 5.6-5.7ish?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Sente (5.9)
By: cliffmama When: Apr 26, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Love this climb, great for those who like thin, balancy moves. Dicey first moves until you can get gear in - I'm 5'6" tall and I have to use the slopey ramp as a hold until I can reach the big horizontal. Then three bolts make the hardest section a well protected sport climb - it's very thin here but if you fell, you won't go far. Then the rest is easy trad. Tree has sling anchor on it, so easy to set up top rope from here to TR Sente, and Thin Slabs with a directional.


Location: NY : The Gunks
By: cliffmama When: Jul 1, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: The Gunks Climbers Coalition, established in the fall of 2002, is an advocacy group dedicated to creating and maintaining sustainable opportunities for responsible climbing along the Shawangunk Ridge and surrounding areas. To keep up to date with Gunks related news, watch our website at gunksclimbers.org,,
or our Facebook Page, Twitter feed or join our [[GCC Mai... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : P38 (5.10b PG13)
By: cliffmama When: Aug 30, 2010

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Comments: For those who don't want to lead it, it's pretty straightforward to set up a toprope on it by ascending Radcliffe (class 4) and building an anchor above P38. You'll need some directional gear (because the crack is leaning), which can be set when rapping down the route after setting up your toprope anchor.

There are 2 ways to do the start. One is to pull the overhang directly below the crack. Another is to ascend slightly left of the crack, and once over the overhang, balance over right to th... more >>


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: How Rap Slings came to the GunksEastern StatescliffmamaJul 18, 2015
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