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Jasmine cruising the crux of Lower Eaves, Gunks 3/...


Member Since: May 26, 2009
Last Visit: Dec 7, 2014
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 26 | Routes | Areas | Photos 7 | Page Improvements | Comments 8 | Posts 9 | Stars 2 | Ratings
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Jannette Pazer climbing Squiggles Direct, 2007

Jannette Pazer climbing Squiggles Direct, 2007

NY : The Gunks : ... : Squiggles Direct (5.10b R)

Oct 29, 2014

Jasmine cruising the crux of Lower Eaves, Gunks 3/...

Jasmine cruising the crux of Lower Eaves, Gunks 3/18/2012

NY : The Gunks : ... : Lower Eaves (5.9-)

Apr 26, 2012

Ariel on the crux of Lower Eaves, Gunks, 3/18/2012

Ariel on the crux of Lower Eaves, Gunks, 3/18/2012

NY : The Gunks : ... : Lower Eaves (5.9-)

Apr 26, 2012

Me leading a slab sport climb in Eleven Mile Canyo...

Me leading a slab sport climb in Eleven Mile Canyon, 2007. Photo by Stewart Green

cliffmama : Colorado Springs area, Colo...

Aug 30, 2010

Me leading Montezuma's Tower (5.7), Garden of the ...

Me leading Montezuma's Tower (5.7), Garden of the Gods, CO. 2007. Photo by Stewart Green

cliffmama : Colorado Springs area, Colo...

Aug 30, 2010

Me on a slab climb in Red Rock Canyon Open Space, ...

Me on a slab climb in Red Rock Canyon Open Space, Colorado Springs 2007. Photo by Stewart Green

cliffmama : Colorado Springs area, Colo...

Aug 30, 2010

Me leading P2 of Bonnie's Roof (5.8), Trapps, Gunk...

Me leading P2 of Bonnie's Roof (5.8), Trapps, Gunks, NY

cliffmama : Gunks, NY

Aug 30, 2010

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Funny Face (5.5)
By: cliffmama When: Sep 21, 2014

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Comments: The start is either of 2 left facing corners. The one on the left is easier. The one on the right takes you to a dirty, grassy ledge to mantle up on with nothing really useful to hold onto. 1st pitch had some messy grassy ledges, and a 30-40 foot runout. Not hard climbing, but not recommended for a leader not solid at 5.5.
1st pitch belay ledge Cedar Tree had rap slings & rings on it. WTF? It's basically a bush. I wouldn't want to rap on it!
At the GT ledge, there was no anchor, I traversed rig... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Cascading Crystal Kaleidosc... (5.8 PG13)
By: cliffmama When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Another serious accident was on the start of CCK P2 off the GT ledge a couple of weeks ago (August 2014). It's confusing where to start (I think the Williams and Swain books say different things), hard to protect and not far off the GT ledge and a bad result if you fall.

I prefer to start in the Updraft corner for just a short distance, then diagonal across the face to meet up with CCK. Bypasses the dangerous moves off the GT ledge, easy climbing (5.5) and easy to protect.

Also, a great link-... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks
By: cliffmama When: Jul 17, 2012

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Comments: For the latest Gunks Peregrine Falcon closure information watch the watch the Gunks Climbers' Coalition website, plus the Gunks Climbers' Coalition Facebook page or on twitter @gunksclimbers.

I also have general Gunks information for climbers and visitors at my website, cliffmama.com.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Ale 8 (5.12a/b)
By: cliffmama When: Jun 25, 2012

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Comments: Is the lower part of Ale 8 the easy slab/face climb to the immediate left of Cold Feet -> Giant Man? There's an anchor at the top before the roof. It doesn't fit the description of Chicken Heads, so I'm guessing this is the lower part of Ale 8.... Seemed easier than a 5.8, and certainly not a 5.12... maybe 5.6-5.7ish?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Sente (5.9)
By: cliffmama When: Apr 26, 2012

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Comments: Love this climb, great for those who like thin, balancy moves. Dicey first moves until you can get gear in - I'm 5'6" tall and I have to use the slopey ramp as a hold until I can reach the big horizontal. Then three bolts make the hardest section a well protected sport climb - it's very thin here but if you fell, you won't go far. Then the rest is easy trad. Tree has sling anchor on it, so easy to set up top rope from here to TR Sente, and Thin Slabs with a directional.


Location: NY : The Gunks
By: cliffmama When: Jul 1, 2011

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Comments: The Gunks Climbers Coalition, established in the fall of 2002, is an advocacy group dedicated to creating and maintaining sustainable opportunities for responsible climbing along the Shawangunk Ridge and surrounding areas. To keep up to date with Gunks related news, watch our website at gunksclimbers.org,,
or our Facebook Page, Twitter feed or join our [[GCC Mai... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : P38 (5.10b PG13)
By: cliffmama When: Aug 30, 2010

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Comments: For those who don't want to lead it, it's pretty straightforward to set up a toprope on it by ascending Radcliffe (class 4) and building an anchor above P38. You'll need some directional gear (because the crack is leaning), which can be set when rapping down the route after setting up your toprope anchor.

There are 2 ways to do the start. One is to pull the overhang directly below the crack. Another is to ascend slightly left of the crack, and once over the overhang, balance over right to th... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall : Antropov's Cold (5.11c)
By: cliffmama When: May 26, 2009

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Comments: If you have tiny fingers, you won't need to do a dyno move.
My tiny 12 year old (56 pounds) sent it today, and her fingers are so small, she was able to fit them into the crack and avoided the dyno.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
Gunks Climbers' Coalition Annual Party 9/17 - save the date!Eastern StatescliffmamaJul 1, 2011
Gunks Adopt-A-Crag Day - 10/30/2010Eastern StatescliffmamaSep 27, 2010
Rosendale Waterworks Climbing Access OpenedEastern StatescliffmamaSep 27, 2010
5/22 GCC's BIG PARTY fundraiser for new Rosendale Waterworks climbing area BoulderingcliffmamaMay 14, 2010
5/22 GCC's BIG PARTY fundraiser for new Rosendale Waterworks climbing areaEastern StatescliffmamaMay 14, 2010
re: Pat Ament's East coast tour of his new film, "The Disciples of Gill"Eastern StatescliffmamaApr 18, 2010
Pat Ament's East coast tour of his new film, "The Disciples of Gill"Eastern StatescliffmamaApr 16, 2010
Pat Ament's East coast tour of "The Disciples of Gill" - a film about John GillBoulderingcliffmamaApr 16, 2010
Pat Ament's East coast tour of his new film, "The Disciples of Gill"General ClimbingcliffmamaApr 16, 2010

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

P38 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

NY : The Gunks : ... : b. Jackie and friends

Sente 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

NY : The Gunks : ... : g. V3 - Middle Earth

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