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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Heart of the Narrows (5.12c)
By: Clare Shemeta When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What would anyone rate P1? I thought it is harder 10. I think it's worth doing, and the roof is really fun. Nice new anchor at the top, thanks!!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Skinner Mountain
By: Clare Shemeta When: Aug 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can anyone tell me the aspect of the 5.7 and 10a bolted routes? Trying to plan going out there but don't want to get baked. Thanks!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Climb-Eye-Knight (5.10b)
By: Clare Shemeta When: Aug 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: At the "finger crack", if you proceed up the bolt line (the finger crack is a bit to the right of the bolt line) I think it's harder than 10b. Anybody else try it on the bolt line? There's a move with a left hand fin that's harder than the finger crack. I thought it was a fun, long (about 80 ft) line - 10 bolts, Rolofson book says 8....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott ... (5.9)
By: Clare Shemeta When: Jul 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think it's a nice route - yes, some dirt on ledges but still interesting moves and fun crux. Agree with comments about first bolt. Would be a sketchy clip for the short leader.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Chore Boy (5.10b/c)
By: Clare Shemeta When: Oct 30, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: At the lower crux, there is a little sidepull crimper you can use for left hand. It's my secret hold. It's about 6 ft left of the 4th bolt. I'm 5'11", and I can't reach that top hold. But using this crimper, you can work the feet up without barn-dooring and voila - reach the top holds, and you're done!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Arête (5.10d)
By: Clare Shemeta When: Oct 22, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Try doing this route WITHOUT using arete holds on the left, and you might agree with the 10d rating. If one chickens out to the left (especially at the roof) it is 9+ in my book. Great climb!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : Pony Express (5.11c)
By: Clare Shemeta When: Oct 13, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: On P1, is it on route to go ~ 4 ft RIGHT of the crack about mid-way for about 10 feet, then join back up with the crack to finish? The crack section through the middle here seems to be more difficult than 9.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : The South Slabs : Slab Happy (5.7)
By: Clare Shemeta When: Sep 22, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tromped all over the L side of the SE slabs and did not find this. The furthest route to the L appears to have 2 bolts (first bolt ~20 ft off the ground...), a pin up in a crack, and sure looks harder than 5.7. Anybody know of a topo or description of how to find?
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : Southeast Face : Greatest Route (5.8)
By: Clare Shemeta When: Sep 22, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some additions/clarifications/questions to route description:Pretty sure we were on P1 at least, the description matched exactly! P1: Crux right of the ground, a balancy jam or two and high steps gain the slabby crack above (5.8). CES: quite low angle, more of a face move (unprotected!!) to gain the Rt facing dihedral. Rating more like 5.7) The pitch follows this and several other intermittent cracks up the clean slab above (5.7-8) CES: no 5.8 on this pitch!. A few exit moves traverse left to a... more >>
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : Scout Rock : Rawhide (5.10c)
By: Clare Shemeta When: Sep 16, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: To start on this climb, is one supposed to climb up the wide groove, do the wild stem (which is not bad for tall people!) to get to the base of the crux move, OR is the start just to the left, climbing the thin, chalked up, difficult looking crack? We did the former, seemed much easier than doing that crack...PS agree with the 10c rating with the edge exposed from the bush removal.
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : Scout Rock : The Triple Mantle (5.9)
By: Clare Shemeta When: Sep 16, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: The third mantle seems much harder than 5.9, that might depend upon where you do it. Right up the center seems like 10b/c or so.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : North Face (5.6 R)
By: Clare Shemeta When: Jul 20, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was up there today and baled due to having only 4 pieces total...I do have a Q about the crux move. We checked it out, and my partner said the move was starting at the pin (seems to be ~ 20 ft UP from the above described belay directly BELOW the tree. It is a nice piton, seems solid, and would provide some pro on a move here. But it appears to be a bit of a difficult bulge to get over. I could see the blocky roof below and wondered if that was the real live start. Has anyone tried climbing right... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag
By: Clare Shemeta When: Apr 13, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: We were up there climbing, and did the three bolt climb a few over from Nickels and Dimes (great route! Think 10a up the face, avoiding the flake?). Someone with a book told us it was 5.7, but we found the direct start to the first bolt quite a bit harder: skimpy hands, mininal feet, balancy. Maybe 5.9? I checked all the routes in here and could not find a 3 bolt one that goes up to the little ramp... any ideas? What is the climb, and what's the real rating?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Cussin' Crack (5.7)
By: Clare Shemeta When: Sep 19, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: Led the first pitch of this today. Did the slab start to right of chimney: I thought it was fun (put in one pyschological nut), although a couple of years ago it haired me out. I could not, however, find the "proper" route for the traverse at the end of the first pitch. We ended up going a ways out onto the bench and doing a hard move to scramble up a small slot to the left of the skanky looking bolt on the face. Is the "real" route to the RIGHT of the bolt, up the cracks, the right one of whic... more >>
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