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Member Since: Sep 7, 2006
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 454
Total Points: 1,450
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1664 | Routes 54 | Areas 9 | Photos 86 | Page Improvements | Comments 345 | Posts 98 | Stars 1058 | Ratings 14
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Rainbow Highway (5.10+) : Photo
By: claramie When: Aug 22, 2015

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Comments: Great beta photo of the route. One comment, the bottom rappel (from p2 anchor) is more like 130'. We rapped with a 70m and only had to downclimb 8' or less to reach the ground.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Rainbow Highway (5.10+)
By: claramie When: Aug 22, 2015

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Comments: Awesome route! A real alpine classic with lots of great climbing throughout. For rack, we felt that a set of nuts, a single blue Alien, and doubles of green Alien to #3 Camalot is plenty. We placed a couple of small nuts but no RPs. Double ropes aren't necessary.

Rapping the route (which actually uses an anchor or two from the neighboring route) was easy with a single 70m. Just keep rapping pretty much straight down on bolted stations with chains & rings. The final rap left us with an 8' ... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Failure to Communicate (5.10-)
By: claramie When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: The anchors were fine when we climbed this over the weekend.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Captain Nemo (5.10d)
By: claramie When: Aug 2, 2015

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Comments: Found some shoes at the base here last weekend. Message me if they are yours, and I will get them back to you.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Hot Licks (5.9)
By: claramie When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: It's possible to get to the top of the P2 ledge from the ground with a single 60m rope. The P2 anchor takes finger-sized gear and nuts. We had doubles to #3, a #4, and a #6. I think a second #4 would have been nice for the first pitch, but you can run it out instead.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Collision Course (5.11)
By: claramie When: Mar 24, 2015

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Comments: Getting up the initial wide crack is protectable with #4 camalot and smaller. Agreed that having a #6 for the last 20 feet is very much appreciated.


Location: International : South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : Campanile Esloveno
By: claramie When: Jan 5, 2015

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Comments: Agreed that this is the best formation in Frey that we climbed. Awesome rock quality and very cool features, especially on Imaginate. The hike from the refugio is kinda long (2-3 hours for most) but nowhere near as bad as it looks since the uphill sections are at different parts. The path crosses so much water that you can keep refilling every 20 minutes as you hike vs carrying all of that extra water weight. We hiked there and back on consecutive days and it wasn't so bad. Also, there are nice ... more >>


Location: International : South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : ... : Imagínate (5.10)
By: claramie When: Jan 5, 2015

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Comments: Amazing route doesn't even say enough! Really spectacular and one of the most interesting things I've ever climbed. I'd agree that it's well graded at 5.10 but it's runout in spots so you might not want to be leading at your limit on this one.


Location: International : South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : ... : Fonrouge-Bertoncelj (5.10b/c)
By: claramie When: Jan 5, 2015

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Comments: Excellent climb on great rock! One refrigerator block to tiptoe around but it seems rather solid. As for the crux slab, you can get a nest before the runout to the first bolt (which is easier climbing) and then make you way to the bolt out right (don't follow the aid line up and left).

If you have a 70m or more you can rap down imaginate, which is probably the best option since it has good ring anchors the whole way down.


Location: International : South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : ... : Diedro de Jim (5) (5.8)
By: claramie When: Dec 27, 2014

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Comments: Classic climbing! I would call both pitches 5.9 though. I was able to rappel with a single 60m. Once to the intermediate anchor and from there to the ground (out right on the ledge). Be careful if your rope is potentially a little short of 60m or doesn't stretch much.


Location: International : South America : Argentina : Mendoza (Los Arenales) : Mejor No Hablar de Ciertas ... (5.10+)
By: claramie When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: Route description.

Approach from the trail that leaves the back right corner of the refugio. It takes about 45 minutes to get to the base of the route.

P1 - 5. Start up the rotten gully for about 600 feet. We simuled it but you could pitch it out. There are bolt anchors about every 40 meters as you go. You will rappel back down this gulley. All of this is maybe max 5.8 and mostly even easier than that.

P6. At the end of the gully, walk right and up dirt / rock ledges to the saddle. Cli... more >>


Location: International : South America : Argentina : Mendoza (Los Arenales)
By: claramie When: Nov 24, 2014

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Comments: Update to Kirk's beta from our trips to Arenales in November 2014.

Most importantly, the road is currently better and is passable by a regular 2WD car. This is important, because we tried to figure out various ways to get here from Mendoza and unfortunately, we couldn't find a really cheap option. Public transport to Tunuyan or another town and then a private ride up to the park itself costs about $200 round trip. Renting the cheapest, smallest car possible in Mendoza for a 4 day trip can be a ... more >>


Location: International : South America : Argentina : Patagonia : Chiaro di Luna (Claro de Lu... (5.10+) : Photo (Copy)
By: claramie When: Nov 19, 2014

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Comments: Claro de Luna goes up the left side of the formation in this picture. If you see the snow field in the low angled part about half-way up, that's where I mentioned that we found snow and some ice but didn't need ice gear (though I bet it's different in other years). Climbing the left side of that through the shadow gets you to the flat talus bench below the headwall (about 2/3 up the route)


Location: International : South America : Peru : Huaraz : Hatun Machay : ... : San Pedro Trip (5.5)
By: claramie When: Oct 27, 2014

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Comments: Not hard but fun climbing up flakes and edges. I'd call it more like 5.7 to 5.8. Gets morning sun.


Location: International : South America : Peru : Huaraz : Hatun Machay : ... : Touch the boles (5.8)
By: claramie When: Oct 27, 2014

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Comments: This route is the right of the two that could have been just one. The shorter one to the left is Chuchuwasi Power. If you climb the water groove between the two routes (which is the best rock) you could easily clip either line of bolts. This one is a full 100 feet / 30 meters so tie knots in the end of your rope. Rock quality on this route is worse than average for this wall, especially higher up.


Location: International : South America : Peru : Huaraz : Hatun Machay : ... : Pincitas (5.10a)
By: claramie When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: FWIW, the guidebook calls this 10c.

Also worth noting that the first 3 - 4 bolts have rust streaks coming out from behind the hanger so probably from the bolt itself. This route was established in 2004.


Location: International : South America : Peru : Huaraz : Hatun Machay : ... : Putas Chicas (5.10a)
By: claramie When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: Excellent hueco route that's every bit as good as it looks!


Location: International : South America : Peru : Huaraz : Hatun Machay : ... : Fancy a Good Route (5.10d)
By: claramie When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: Awesome route! Huecos up the water groove then other the face at the end. Not too hard for most of it but maybe a little tricky to read... then thinner moves / pockets to the anchor. Lots of fun!


Location: International : South America : Peru : Huaraz : Hatun Machay
By: claramie When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: I fully agree with everyone else that Hatun Machay is awesome!!!

Some updated info from October 2014. From Huaraz, one way to get there is to take a colectivo from Huaraz to Catac for 3.5 soles pp, then a taxi from Catac to the refugio. We ended up paying 50 soles but sometimes I guess it might cost 40. Either way, $20 USD to get to a place in the mountains 2 hours away isn't so bad. The other, cheaper option would be to take another colectivo from Catac continuing south and then jump off at th... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Slim Pickens (5.10)
By: claramie When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: Fun climbing but possible to get off route / be confused by the beta on the proj. My partner and I had both done Progression before and still wondered if we went the right way. Here's what we did.

Start immediately left of Progression.

Climb the left-angling hand crack on the underside of the leaning roof until it's possible to join Progression right after the crux, and then finish the Progression P2 5.8 chimney to the end. 230', 5.9. Great pitch! You could split it into two pitches also if yo... more >>


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Punchbowl : Blue Route 1 (5.11)
By: claramie When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: The description is a little vague, but there is a short wall with 2 routes that each have 3 bolts to a shared anchor that is just past / right of the wall with Drive By Shooting etc. This wall is about 100' around the corner.

Both of these routes could use another bolt up at the top, because a fall from the choss to grass ledge-finish of either would put you right back at the ground.

The grades seem off too. Maybe the left is 10+ and the right is mid 11? Hard to grade this climbing from onsigh... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Joy and Tribulation (5.9 R)
By: claramie When: Jul 6, 2014

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Comments: What an awesome route! As good as most Lumpy classics.

Following Luke's line, you can barely get all the way from the ground to the flat talus field below the chimney in 1 pitch with a 70m rope (placing sparse pro with long runners through the easy parts at the start), making it a 2 pitch route.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Photo
By: claramie When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: This is slightly farther down the road than the current parking lot. From the parking lot, walk towards the crag (shown in a different picture) along the road, and then follow the trail shown here (which also has a big sign that you won't miss).


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne
By: claramie When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: Maybe worth noting that this crag is off of Gap Road, by CO Hwy 119. So if coming from Boulder, you probably don't want to go south on CO 93 all the way to Golden and take that entrance to Golden Gate Canyon State Park (like we did the first time).

Probably the fastest way from Boulder is CO 93 south to CO 72 west, then turn left on Twin Spruce Gap Road, which becomes Gap Road, and then turn left into the camping area. You could also access Gap Road from CO 119 heading south from Nederland.

... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Over the Hill (5.10b)
By: claramie When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: With a single 70m, you can link all of it to the top as one pitch, but it uses the whole rope. So make sure yours isn't short unless you want to simul a little.


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