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Should I be trying this hard on a warmup? <br /> <br />photo by Rob Kepley


Member Since: Sep 7, 2006
Last Visit: 7 mins ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1560 | Routes 46 | Areas 7 | Photos 70 | Page Improvements | Comments 330 | Posts 93 | Stars 1002 | Ratings 12
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : South America : Peru : Huaraz : Hatun Machay : ... : Pincitas (5.10a)
By: claramie When: 3 days ago

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Comments: FWIW, the guidebook calls this 10c.

Also worth noting that the first 3 - 4 bolts have rust streaks coming out from behind the hanger so probably from the bolt itself. This route was established in 2004.


Location: International : South America : Peru : Huaraz : Hatun Machay : ... : Putas Chicas (5.10a)
By: claramie When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Excellent hueco route that's every bit as good as it looks!


Location: International : South America : Peru : Huaraz : Hatun Machay : ... : Fancy a Good Route (5.10d)
By: claramie When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Awesome route! Huecos up the water groove then other the face at the end. Not too hard for most of it but maybe a little tricky to read... then thinner moves / pockets to the anchor. Lots of fun!


Location: International : South America : Peru : Huaraz : Hatun Machay
By: claramie When: 3 days ago

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Comments: I fully agree with everyone else that Hatun Machay is awesome!!!

Some updated info from October 2014. From Huaraz, one way to get there is to take a colectivo from Huaraz to Catac for 3.5 soles pp, then a taxi from Catac to the refugio. We ended up paying 50 soles but sometimes I guess it might cost 40. Either way, $20 USD to get to a place in the mountains 2 hours away isn't so bad. The other, cheaper option would be to take another colectivo from Catac continuing south and then jump off at th... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Slim Pickens (5.10)
By: claramie When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: Fun climbing but possible to get off route / be confused by the beta on the proj. My partner and I had both done Progression before and still wondered if we went the right way. Here's what we did.

Start immediately left of Progression.

Climb the left-angling hand crack on the underside of the leaning roof until it's possible to join Progression right after the crux, and then finish the Progression P2 5.8 chimney to the end. 230', 5.9. Great pitch! You could split it into two pitches also if yo... more >>


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Punchbowl : Blue Route 1 (5.11)
By: claramie When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: The description is a little vague, but there is a short wall with 2 routes that each have 3 bolts to a shared anchor that is just past / right of the wall with Drive By Shooting etc. This wall is about 100' around the corner.

Both of these routes could use another bolt up at the top, because a fall from the choss to grass ledge-finish of either would put you right back at the ground.

The grades seem off too. Maybe the left is 10+ and the right is mid 11? Hard to grade this climbing from onsigh... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Joy and Tribulation (5.9 R)
By: claramie When: Jul 6, 2014

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Comments: What an awesome route! As good as most Lumpy classics.

Following Luke's line, you can barely get all the way from the ground to the flat talus field below the chimney in 1 pitch with a 70m rope (placing sparse pro with long runners through the easy parts at the start), making it a 2 pitch route.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Photo
By: claramie When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: This is slightly farther down the road than the current parking lot. From the parking lot, walk towards the crag (shown in a different picture) along the road, and then follow the trail shown here (which also has a big sign that you won't miss).


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne
By: claramie When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: Maybe worth noting that this crag is off of Gap Road, by CO Hwy 119. So if coming from Boulder, you probably don't want to go south on CO 93 all the way to Golden and take that entrance to Golden Gate Canyon State Park (like we did the first time).

Probably the fastest way from Boulder is CO 93 south to CO 72 west, then turn left on Twin Spruce Gap Road, which becomes Gap Road, and then turn left into the camping area. You could also access Gap Road from CO 119 heading south from Nederland.

... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Over the Hill (5.10b)
By: claramie When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: With a single 70m, you can link all of it to the top as one pitch, but it uses the whole rope. So make sure yours isn't short unless you want to simul a little.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part F - The P... : Potato Chip Route (Regular ... (5.10c PG13)
By: claramie When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: We did it as one pitch from the gully. Only used a #3 and a #4 C4 (for the bigger pieces), and it wasn't too bad, but a #5 should fit if you wanted to carry it up there.

You can sling the summit horn with double length slings or a cordalette and belay from the top if you want. Keep body weight on it though, so it doesn't slip off the top of the horn.

To get off, we scrambled the ridge east, then back down the gully to where we started, leaving a couple of pieces to be cleaned... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Winslow Wall : West Side : The Winsloner (5.11c)
By: claramie When: Mar 25, 2014

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Comments: Absolutely amazing route! 4 stars all around. Some of the clips are exciting and there are long reaches in spots so it would be even more difficult for short people. Incredible climbing though!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Winslow Wall : West Side : Has Bro (5.11d)
By: claramie When: Mar 25, 2014

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Comments: Excellent climbing and beautiful all around but I wouldn't personally say it was well bolted (sorry not trying to anger anyone). Bolts are constantly out left around the arete so the rope could grab your foot if you fall. And you might not even see the second-to-last bolt if you're climbing the line.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Winslow Wall : West Side : Om Sweet Om (5.10b)
By: claramie When: Mar 25, 2014

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Comments: Ok route some cool movement but some of the falls could be ugly so best to be comfortable at this grade... and not to climb in direct sunlight if it's hot.

Also, leaving all of the draws clipped will make it pretty intense for the follower because they will swing a lot if they fall during the cruxes and scrape the rope over edges. Use your own judgement but it might be best to clean while lowering and follow as as straight toprope or with only select directionals.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Redstone : Narrows, Redstone, McClure ... : Redstone Pillar (WI4)
By: claramie When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: Fat and awesome right now.

FWIW, we had three guidebooks, and none of them gave great instructions for parking and the approach. Park on the downhill side of the Redstone Inn. Walk down that road, past the gate that says "private road / no trespassing". Walk the road for 5 or 10 minutes then turn left when you see the old T-bar ski lift. Walk uphill under that eventually following a creek drainage east to the climb.

It's vague if this is "allowed" or not, but the only place marked no trespassi... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Redstone : Photo
By: claramie When: Jan 29, 2014

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Comments: Amazing picture! Good work, Jason.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Unnamed 10+ (steep thin han... (5.10+)
By: claramie When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: You can definitely place .5 camalots above the pod if you wanted, in addition to .75 camalots


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : The Monk (5.10)
By: claramie When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Most of the route is baggy #3 camalot. Most people will like to have somewhere between 3 - 5 #3s and a couple of 3.5 camalots in addition to the smaller gear


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Double Trouble (5.11-)
By: claramie When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Good line. Note that the unnamed to the left (with Last Day written on the plaque) could be confused with this climb. This one is twin cracks on the right side wall, not the left side wall.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Unknown name( 20 in 2nd ed... (5.10) : Photo
By: claramie When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: I think this picture is the Unknown 5.10 left of desert shield


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Unknown name( 20 in 2nd ed... (5.10)
By: claramie When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: I had posted this under Polaris in 2011 because one of Tom T's pics of this route was listed there. now I'm thinking that Polaris is a different route to the right of desert shield...

this one is located just left of desert shield. Great route, the old book says unnamed, ? for grade and maybe 100'. I recommend a 70m rope to belay from the ground. Also, I thought it would be #2s to the OW but it would have been better to have #3 camalots instead. Take 1 - 2 new #4 camalots and ... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Buckshot (5.10c)
By: claramie When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: I updated the webbing on all of the raps. The old tat is gone and now is 1" tubular webbing.

In retrospect, I didn't do it the best way though, as the slings are tied directly through the hangers on the bolts and nuts on many of the raps. As such it's best to go in direct to the rap rings (w extended backup to the bolts) instead of going to the bolts directly, so your weighted biners don't cut the slings against the hangers.

Cheers,
Clayton

FYI, on the first rap you go rappers left form the ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Rim Shot (5.11-)
By: claramie When: Oct 11, 2013

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Comments: What an excellent route! That said, it's still a desert tower and there is some choss and dangerous sections. If you only brought a 70m rope, you CANNOT do the Aging Salesman Raps. Read the rap beta for the formation or just take 2 ropes.

rack: single green/yellow alien and small to medium nuts. doubles to #3 (triples of #.75 - #2 camalot), single #4 and #5 camalot (c4). 70m rope or double 50s/60s.

On P1, you could easily use 4 or 5 #1 camalots so take care ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Petrified Hornet Wall : Kiefer Ari (5.11-)
By: claramie When: Oct 11, 2013

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Comments: besides being around the left side of the formation a ways, this route is up above a band of crappy rock so it's not on the trail. You have to scramble a little to get up there.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Petrified Hornet Wall
By: claramie When: Oct 11, 2013

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Comments: And note that the picture of the crag with the routes numbered in the Bloom guidebook is completely wrong. Crescent Crack and Petrified Hornet are about 100 feet apart and right where the trail hits the wall.


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