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Should I be trying this hard on a warmup? <br /> <br />photo by Rob Kepley


Member Since: Sep 7, 2006
Last Visit: Apr 12, 2014
Contact claramie


Point Rank: # 489
Total Points: 1,159
Last Year: 98
Last 30 Days: 3
28 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has claramie been climbing?










Contributions


All (1486) | Routes (42) | Areas (5) | Photos (69) | Comments (319) | Posts (93) | Stars (948) | Ratings (10)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Winslow Wall : West Side : The Winsloner (5.11c)
By: claramie When: Mar 25, 2014

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Comments: Absolutely amazing route! 4 stars all around. Some of the clips are exciting and there are long reaches in spots so it would be even more difficult for short people. Incredible climbing though!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Winslow Wall : West Side : Has Bro (5.11d)
By: claramie When: Mar 25, 2014

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Comments: Excellent climbing and beautiful all around but I wouldn't personally say it was well bolted (sorry not trying to anger anyone). Bolts are constantly out left around the arete so the rope could grab your foot if you fall. And you might not even see the second-to-last bolt if you're climbing the line.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Winslow Wall : West Side : Om Sweet Om (5.10b)
By: claramie When: Mar 25, 2014

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Comments: Ok route some cool movement but some of the falls could be ugly so best to be comfortable at this grade... and not to climb in direct sunlight if it's hot.

Also, leaving all of the draws clipped will make it pretty intense for the follower because they will swing a lot if they fall during the cruxes and scrape the rope over edges. Use your own judgement but it might be best to clean while lowering and follow as as straight toprope or with only select directionals.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Redstone : Narrows, Redstone, McClure ... : Redstone Pillar (WI4)
By: claramie When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: Fat and awesome right now.

FWIW, we had three guidebooks, and none of them gave great instructions for parking and the approach. Park on the downhill side of the Redstone Inn. Walk down that road, past the gate that says "private road / no trespassing". Walk the road for 5 or 10 minutes then turn left when you see the old T-bar ski lift. Walk uphill under that eventually following a creek drainage east to the climb.

It's vague if this is "allowed" or not, but the only place marked no trespassi... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Redstone : Photo
By: claramie When: Jan 29, 2014

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Comments: Amazing picture! Good work, Jason.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Unnamed 10+ (5.10+)
By: claramie When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: You can definitely place .5 camalots above the pod if you wanted, in addition to .75 camalots


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : The Monk (5.10)
By: claramie When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Most of the route is baggy #3 camalot. Most people will like to have somewhere between 3 - 5 #3s and a couple of 3.5 camalots in addition to the smaller gear


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Double Trouble (5.11-)
By: claramie When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Good line. Note that the unnamed to the left (with Last Day written on the plaque) could be confused with this climb. This one is twin cracks on the right side wall, not the left side wall.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Unknown name( 20 in 2nd ed... (5.10) : Photo
By: claramie When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: I think this picture is the Unknown 5.10 left of desert shield


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Unknown name( 20 in 2nd ed... (5.10)
By: claramie When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: I had posted this under Polaris in 2011 because one of Tom T's pics of this route was listed there. now I'm thinking that Polaris is a different route to the right of desert shield...

this one is located just left of desert shield. Great route, the old book says unnamed, ? for grade and maybe 100'. I recommend a 70m rope to belay from the ground. Also, I thought it would be #2s to the OW but it would have been better to have #3 camalots instead. Take 1 - 2 new #4 camalots and ... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Buckshot (5.10c)
By: claramie When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: I updated the webbing on all of the raps. The old tat is gone and now is 1" tubular webbing.

In retrospect, I didn't do it the best way though, as the slings are tied directly through the hangers on the bolts and nuts on many of the raps. As such it's best to go in direct to the rap rings (w extended backup to the bolts) instead of going to the bolts directly, so your weighted biners don't cut the slings against the hangers.

Cheers,
Clayton

FYI, on the first rap you go rappers left form the ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Rim Shot (5.11-)
By: claramie When: Oct 11, 2013

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Comments: What an excellent route! That said, it's still a desert tower and there is some choss and dangerous sections. If you only brought a 70m rope, you CANNOT do the Aging Salesman Raps. Read the rap beta for the formation or just take 2 ropes.

rack: single green/yellow alien and small to medium nuts. doubles to #3 (triples of #.75 - #2 camalot), single #4 and #5 camalot (c4). 70m rope or double 50s/60s.

On P1, you could easily use 4 or 5 #1 camalots so take care ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Petrified Hornet Wall : Kiefer Ari (5.11-)
By: claramie When: Oct 11, 2013

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Comments: besides being around the left side of the formation a ways, this route is up above a band of crappy rock so it's not on the trail. You have to scramble a little to get up there.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Petrified Hornet Wall
By: claramie When: Oct 11, 2013

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Comments: And note that the picture of the crag with the routes numbered in the Bloom guidebook is completely wrong. Crescent Crack and Petrified Hornet are about 100 feet apart and right where the trail hits the wall.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Petrified Hornet Wall : Petrified Hornet (5.10+)
By: claramie When: Oct 10, 2013

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Comments: boulder start is slightly sketchy but ok. the dihedral is #2 to #3 camalot. interesting moves to exit above the roof part (but not very hard). excellent route after the start. No more finger gear once you enter the hand crack

anchor is just above the steep roof part, but you can't seem it from the ground


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Petrified Hornet Wall : Crescent Crack (5.9)
By: claramie When: Oct 10, 2013

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Comments: short but classic and splitter. rack on here is wrong though. For the first pitch only, still take 1 or 2 x #2 camalot. 3 or 4x #3 camalot. a 3.5 camalot, and 2x #4 camalot (C4). a #5 C4 can fit in one spot also, but not necessary


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : Bee Positive (5.9)
By: claramie When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: Best of these three routes in my opinion... though all three are nice.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Roadrunner (5.11-)
By: claramie When: Sep 20, 2013

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Comments: Excellent route! Currently has a bit of bird poop on the lower part, around the suspect stacked blocks (which are avoidable if you try). Agreed that a #4 isn't necessary. I took one and didn't place it. Starting into the roof will be more difficult for shorter people.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Backflip (5.8)
By: claramie When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: Personally, I didn't think this route was amazing. The first pitch is excellent. The rest of the route had a bit of loose rock. Especially the flakes under the roof. I couldn't believe how much chalk was on the big flake in the roof. I foot traversed the slab underneath without even touching the thing (at 5.8/5.9)... and never even thought about placing gear in it.

Above there, I didn't realize that the route went right, so I stayed in the dihedral. Ok climbing on ok rock but not great. Also, I... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Sidetrack (5.9)
By: claramie When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: Excellent route. Fun and interesting the whole way, and you get to do 3 easy "OWs". Fully agreed with the crack start that angles left then back right across the slab... there are some runouts, but there is way more gear than it looks like from the ground.

As for the 5th pitch, the wavy hand crack, getting through the roof is easy with great gear. Above the roof, the gear is thin and well below you pulling the slabby moves, so don't blow it.

This was a great route, but I think it would be pret... more >>


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Upper Exum Ridge (5.5)
By: claramie When: Jul 14, 2013

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Comments: Tons of beta pictures at this link

www.wyomingwhiskey.org/2013/01/grand-teton-climbing-route-ph>>>


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Lower Exum Ridge (5.7)
By: claramie When: Jul 14, 2013

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Comments: Tons of beta pictures at this link

www.wyomingwhiskey.org/2013/01/grand-teton-climbing-route-ph>>>


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Owen Spalding (5.4)
By: claramie When: Jul 14, 2013

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Comments: Tons of beta pictures at this link

www.wyomingwhiskey.org/2013/01/grand-teton-climbing-route-ph>>>


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton
By: claramie When: Jul 14, 2013

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Comments: Tons of beta pictures at this link for the OS and the Exum.

www.wyomingwhiskey.org/2013/01/grand-teton-climbing-route-ph>>>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty
By: claramie When: Jun 26, 2013

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Comments: My first trip up to Sleeping Beauty today. Currently the water is high and there was no tyrol for this crag, so we walked down to the Vampire Rock tyrol, then walked the base of Black Widow slab and across and up the talus and through some crappy bushwhacking to get to the base. The bushwhacking sucked. Curious if anyone has better approach beta for when the water is too high to cross the river by The Beer can?


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