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Taken at MWV Icefest 2014.


Member Since: Feb 18, 2009
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Total Points: 394
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 800 | Routes 10 | Areas 1 | Photos 47 | Page Improvements | Comments 44 | Posts 342 | Stars 315 | Ratings 41
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : South America : Chile : Valle Cochamó : Photo
By: cjdrover When: Jul 31, 2015

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Comments: Many but not all!

Prospective FA's would be wise to note that vegetated cracks are at least deep enough to support roots...


Location: International : North America : Canada : Alberta : Banff National Park : ... : The Back of The Lake
By: cjdrover When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: To echo the above, this a fantastic crag with many excellent routes on amazing rock. The MP database is probably only 10% complete with 18 routes shown. Another guidebook that covers the area is "Banff Rock".

We only had an afternoon and morning to climb but were very impressed with the rock and route quality on everything we did. There is some really good 5.10 trad climbing with movement and rock reminiscent of the Gunks. Very friendly locals and amazing location!


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : Nostril Block : The Nostril (5.9+)
By: cjdrover When: May 24, 2015

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Comments: This route was recently scrubbed clean by Frank D. and is in great shape!


Location: NH : *Whitehorse Ledge : 2. South Buttress : Wonder Wall : Science Friction Wall (5.11a)
By: cjdrover When: Dec 18, 2014

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Comments: Hi Paul - Thanks for pointing that out. When I first loaded the route I just had P4 in mind and listed the FA for that pitch. I've updated the listing, but the route entry itself could use an update describing the rest of the pitches (I haven't gotten back up there to try the rest yet). Would you like to take over the page? I think an admin can switch the ownership over to you if you'd like. -Chris

ETA: Upon review it looks the like the MP FA field does not support enough characters to properly... more >>


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Vertigo (5.9 A0 R) : Photo
By: cjdrover When: Mar 20, 2014

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Comments: Awesome shot.


Location: International : South America : Chile : Valle Cochamó : Valle Trinidad : ... : No Hay Hoyes (5.11a)
By: cjdrover When: Sep 26, 2013

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Comments: Every pitch is classic! The last pitch, in particular, is one of the more stunning finishes to a route that I've ever seen.


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : The Diedre Area : Diedre (5.10a) : Photo
By: cjdrover When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: No, this picture is definitely a mirror image. See Brian Post's photo ??.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 14 - Cascade Area : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Knob Job (5.10b)
By: cjdrover When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: This would be a local 4 star classic anywhere else.


Location: MA : Lynn Woods : Weetamoo area : Summit Boulders
By: cjdrover When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: GPS for Summit Boulders:
N 42.4988
W 70.9966.


Location: MA : Lynn Woods : Weetamoo area : Summit Boulders : Happy Times (V0)
By: cjdrover When: Apr 7, 2013

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Comments: I think this description might be off - isn't this to the left of Smiley Face, on the right side? If so, it isn't is climbable as someone has stacked a bunch of rocks up in it to make a ramp (presumably for mountain biking).


Location: MA : Lynn Woods : Weetamoo area : Summit Boulders : Piss Drunk (V3)
By: cjdrover When: Apr 7, 2013

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Comments: Is the best beta really the big reach to the right? We did it today going straight up from the sidepulls to a rounded crimp, then high feet and a reach up to juggy flake in the groove. Seemed like a more natural line. Best to consider the Crack Attack holds "off" to maintain the grade.


Location: ME : Mt Kineo : Kineo Ice Climbs : Main(e?)line (WI5+)
By: cjdrover When: Feb 28, 2013

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Comments: The Wilcox/Lewis guide gives the FRA as Cummins/Imbrie in 1977, with an earlier ascent in '75 or '76 that went unreported.


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Off the Hook (5.11+)
By: cjdrover When: Jul 9, 2012

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Comments: Fun! Beta intensive, but I think 11b is fair once you work out the sequence. Good luck with the onsight, you'll need it. (PS - stick clip is essential, book mentions a low pin but it is gone)


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : The Central Wall : Intimidation (5.10b R)
By: cjdrover When: May 20, 2012

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Comments: My .02:
(1) 5.10a/b "Nut trick" works pretty well but kinda occupies some of the handholds. Found the move at the bolt to be the crux.
(2) 5.8 (5.5R) 100% agree with E Thatcher above. Trickiest move had the pin right above you, 5.4 or 5.5 as you go across. You can protect the follower by climbing up P3 to get great gear in the flake, keeps the traverse a top rope the whole way.
(3) 5.10a/b I thought this was just as hard as P1 and more sustained, excellent pitch.
(4) 5.9 (5.5R) Getting a bit dir... more >>


Location: David Appelhans : Cochamo, Chile : Photo
By: cjdrover When: Mar 27, 2012

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Comments: cochamo.com or the binder in the refugio. daniel is working on a guidebook but it won't be available for some time.


Location: International : South America : Chile : Valle Cochamó : Cerro La Junta : Camp Farm (5.11b)
By: cjdrover When: Feb 10, 2012

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Comments: Fun - but a chore to rap down.


Location: International : South America : Chile : Valle Cochamó : La Paloma : ... : Go Big Or Go Home! (5.10)
By: cjdrover When: Feb 10, 2012

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Comments: Very fun! Went without a #6 but was able to dig out a 0.75 placement in a dirty crack to the left of that section. If you walk your cam you can even get away with a single #5, but you´ll be happier with two!


Location: International : North America : Canada : Quebec : *Quebec Ice, Mixed & Alpine... : ... : Photo
By: cjdrover When: Dec 2, 2011

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Comments: What's the obvious line to the left?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Ken's Crack (5.7+)
By: cjdrover When: Nov 6, 2011

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Comments: Short, safe and fun. 5.7 G feels spot on to me, it might feel strange for some folks since it climbs more like a granite crack than a typical Gunks climb. Would be 4 stars if it was three times longer.


Location: NH : WM: Pinkham / Presidentials : Huntington Ravine : Mechanics' Route (5.10b)
By: cjdrover When: Oct 21, 2011

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Comments: I remember rapping off a slung boulder at the top of P3 in 2010 - that we slung. Among the sketchier raps I've done. I also remember slotting myself into the offwidth at the belay on P2 and belaying my partner off the hip for fear of weighting the, uh, "anchor". Of course, when snow started 15 minutes later we had to rap off of it anyways... needless to say, it held.


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Lichen Delight (5.11a)
By: cjdrover When: Oct 10, 2011

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Comments: I took Lee's advice and went after this as a first 5.11. I see it as a test of mental endurance - there is certainly is only one 5.11 move on it, and plenty of chances to rest, but once you commit to the route and pull onto the crux you'd better be focused if its near your limit. It eases off a little in the last 15 feet but not as much as you're hoping - definitely a challenge to keep it together and not blow the lead. Highly recommended, very fun, super safe.


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : The North End : Recluse (5.10d) : Photo
By: cjdrover When: Sep 23, 2011

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Comments: Gotta disagree, Lee... Recluse is never easy. =P


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Stirrup Trouble (5.10b R)
By: cjdrover When: Sep 5, 2011

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Comments: Not R, PG or PG-13 at the worst. Blue alien or a green c3 protects the beginning.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Photo
By: cjdrover When: Feb 1, 2011

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Comments: Sean - the pic is of a short ~10 foot outcropping that everyone hikes past on the way in. The landowners did some testing of various bolts on the Corbin sandstone to determine what was most appropriate for use in the area.


Location: CO : Climbing on TV! First Asce...
By: cjdrover When: Nov 3, 2010

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Comments: Have to disagree with you Bob - only two of the episodes (#3, "The Impossible Climb" and #6 "Fly or Die") feature footage from previous films. The remaining four are all new.


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