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Member Since: Nov 1, 2006
Last Visit: Jun 11, 2011
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Point Rank: # 4,154
Total Points: 75
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Areas are worth 15
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22 people gave this user's contributions a positive rating.











ChugachMan

 
Contributions

Contributions


All (212) | Routes | Areas | Photos (10) | Comments (25) | Posts (3) | Stars (118) | Ratings (56)
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location  Great Image  Date
Adam waits at the bottom of the climb for Sun-Ribbon Arete.

Adam waits at the bottom of the climb for Sun-Ribbon Arete.

CA : High Sierra : ... : Sun Ribbon Arete (5.10a)

6 people

May 2, 2007

Bear Creek Spire viewed from the Dade Lake area.  The North Arete is the prominent Arete facing the viewer, with the NE Ridge being the line which crosses diagonally across the image starting in the bottom left corner.

Bear Creek Spire viewed from the Dade Lake area. The North Arete is the prominent Arete facing the viewer, with the NE Ridge being the line which crosses diagonally across the image starting in the b

CA : High Sierra : ... : North Arete (5.8)

1 person

May 2, 2007

The North Arete of Bear Creek Spire viewed from the west.

The North Arete of Bear Creek Spire viewed from the west.

CA : High Sierra : ... : North Arete (5.8)

6 people

May 2, 2007

Charlie, rounding the roof and arriving at the second Belay stance of Open Book <br />

Charlie, rounding the roof and arriving at the second Belay stance of Open Book

CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Open Book (5.9)

4 people

Nov 6, 2006

Charlie, placing gear on the second pitch of Open Book. <br />

Charlie, placing gear on the second pitch of Open Book.

CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Open Book (5.9)

Nov 6, 2006

The first pitch of Open Book. (you can also see the roof near the top of the second pitch, but most of that pitch can't be seen).

The first pitch of Open Book. (you can also see the roof near the top of the second pitch, but most of that pitch can't be seen).

CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Open Book (5.9)

Nov 6, 2006

Open book is the right facing dihedral seen to the right of the main arete.

Open book is the right facing dihedral seen to the right of the main arete.

CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Open Book (5.9)

Nov 6, 2006

Obi follows up the second pitch of Y2K approaching the big belay ledge.

Obi follows up the second pitch of Y2K approaching the big belay ledge.

NV : Red Rock : ... : Y2K (5.10a)

1 person

Nov 1, 2006

Looking down through the chockstone on Frogland, this pitch is a lot of fun, and you once past it, you can use the chockstone as natural pro!

Looking down through the chockstone on Frogland, this pitch is a lot of fun, and you once past it, you can use the chockstone as natural pro!

NV : Red Rock : ... : Frogland (5.8)

4 people

Nov 1, 2006

Obi follows up what we made the first pitch.  The recommended pitch is to use the trees to the right of him, however starting from the white column with a 60m rope you can make it to another nice belay ledge higher up that takes nice 2 and 0.75 cams.

Obi follows up what we made the first pitch. The recommended pitch is to use the trees to the right of him, however starting from the white column with a 60m rope you can make it to another nice bela

NV : Red Rock : ... : Frogland (5.8)

Nov 1, 2006

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Iron Cross (5.11a)
By: ChugachMan When: Sep 20, 2010

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Comments: Again, no pitons on P1 as of 9.18.2010. Definitely need some pretty good small gear to protect P1. Fantastic climbing on P1, and especially P2, but a fall on P1 could have bad results as gear is tricky to place.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Oyster Bar Area : Conrad Rock : ... : The Jungle (aka Apocalypse ... (5.9)
By: ChugachMan When: Oct 26, 2009

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Comments: Fun route to do while waiting for Heart of Darkness if someone is on it. If you're careful, and set it up right, can counterweight rap off top of crack instead of going to HoD chains... make sure you have it setup so it won't roll off though!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Oyster Bar Area : Conrad Rock : ... : Heart of Darkness (5.10d)
By: ChugachMan When: Oct 26, 2009

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Comments: Funny, for my hand size I say Mt. Woodson's Jaws is easier... still, 11a seemed about right for me. Fun climb - wish JTree had more and longer splitters like this!


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Charlatan : Bad Fortune (5.11c)
By: ChugachMan When: Sep 8, 2009

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Comments: The 11c crux on the first pitch is probably more 11a for those blessed with gangly arms and height.


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : Atlantis (5.11+ PG13)
By: ChugachMan When: Sep 8, 2009

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Comments: Ridiculously fun climb, with short, but heady cruxes. A lot of fun.


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Igor Unchained (5.9+)
By: ChugachMan When: Aug 24, 2009

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Comments: I agree with Andy, I'd say the grades of all three pitches are about the same, and although you can do it on one, having the two sets isn't a horrible idea - especially if you want to do it in about two pitches. And, best of all, Margee is amazing as are her mint cookies.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : The Consolation (5.9)
By: ChugachMan When: Aug 10, 2009

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Comments: Probably my new favourite route on the NW recess. Did in 5 pitches, with comfy belays, and the straight up Long finish (not going right as the guidebook says). I think what is the crux pitch is largely dependent on hand size - but either way never get's harder than 5.9.


Location: WA : Mount Rainier : Photo
By: ChugachMan When: Jul 24, 2009

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Comments: Nice.. I was there around the same time as well, but backed off due to rock/ice hazard. Did you climb Liberty?


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Maiden Buttress : The Illegitimate (5.9)
By: ChugachMan When: Jun 7, 2009

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Comments: I feel like we must have been a little high on our "improbable traverse" as we traversed across a very lichen full overhanging flake just a couple feet under the roof. It looked like maybe the real "improbable traverse" was about ten feet below that? I ended up traversing to about 8 feet below a tree in the crack system 20' to the right, and belayed from that tree (no "down to a stance" bit). The move around seemed more like a mid-10 move, and the rock didn't seem to have as much traffic once y... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Your Mama (5.10+)
By: ChugachMan When: Apr 30, 2009

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Comments: To PhilT, "Where's Caruthers" is between this and scarface...

There's many options for protection on this route... if taking the left crack at the base, 0.75 camalots wil get you to the first pod. If taking the right side, start with a 0.75 or 1, then some 2's and 3's depending on how much gear you want. For the rest of the route, toss in some big gear here and there, or just use red camalots in the crack that runs up the back of the route (with some runners)... great route, with fun moves an... more >>


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : Central Pinnacles : Gunsmoke Wall : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: ChugachMan When: Jun 30, 2008

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Comments: Does anyone know anything about what is called "testosterone crack" on the topo here? It's labelled at 10a, but if you avoid stemming off the formation to the left, I'd put it in the eleven or maybe even easy 12 range... there doesn't seem to be any more information on this route listed.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks : ... : Photo
By: ChugachMan When: Apr 8, 2008

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Comments: anybody know what the bolted route in blue is called? We rapped in and climbed the second pitch, which I'd put in the 9- to 10a range (by the way, if you're not feeling like running it out, bring a couple nuts and a 0.5 camalot to avoid a runout between the 2 and 3 bolts), but I didn't climb the first pitch due to the sketchy start... looked great though...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks : At Your Pleasure (5.8)
By: ChugachMan When: Apr 8, 2008

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Comments: My friend Taryn experienced the ants on lead on April 5th, but when I followed I saw a total of four! I think she carried them all to the top crawling all over her... does anybody know what the bolted route about 40 feet to the right of this is called (marked in blue on Tony's map)? It goes up the face, and I'd guess the upper part is in the 9- or 10a range (we didn't climb the lower part though)... it's a sweet route, and a bit heady if you don't bring a couple pieces of gear to place between t... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Santee Boulders : Moby Dick Area : Beehive Boulders : Iron Cross (V3)
By: ChugachMan When: Dec 17, 2007

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Comments: Another fun option is (assuming you have the reach) to dyno from the "iron cross" position - stetched out, to the top ledge. This can be done in the iron-cross position from bottom to top, using the left side of masochists as one foot, the small crack on the right as the other, with hands working up from these positions until being in masochists and on the right knobs.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : Gallwas' Gallop (5.9+)
By: ChugachMan When: Jul 30, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: This is a fun and challenging pitch with interesting moves and varying styles. Small cams (down to blue and black aliens) and nuts are definately recommended, but there is plenty of protection when you need it - just be a good leader and make sure you use pro opportunities when you see them! These pitches can also be linked to within scrambling height of the top using a 60m (to a large tree anchor), though the follower might have to tear down the anchor and move up a few feet while the leader m... more >>


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