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First climb after knee surgery <br />


Member Since: Jul 24, 2006
Last Visit: 6 days ago
Contact chuck claude


Point Rank: # 2,079
Total Points: 269
Last Year: 6
Last 30 Days: 0
13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has chuck claude been climbing?










Contributions


All 399 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 41 | Page Improvments | Comments 44 | Posts 258 | Stars 43 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Pumphouse Wash : The Ultimates/Mexican Pocke... : Ultimate Finger Crack (5.11+)
By: chuck claude When: Feb 3, 2010

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Comments: how can this be PG13? The gear is about as good as its going to get. Great climbing but sort of isolated.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Outer Limits (5.10c)
By: chuck claude When: Jan 14, 2010

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Comments: its a great climb. Doing the 2nd pitch going to the left is also very good.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Outer Limits (5.10c) : Photo
By: chuck claude When: Jan 14, 2010

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Comments: The photo is amazing, irregardless of how it got to the final form..... nice job


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Butterballs (5.11c)
By: chuck claude When: Jan 14, 2010

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Comments: just a great finger crack


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Reed's Pinnacle Area : Lunatic Fringe (5.10c)
By: chuck claude When: Jan 14, 2010

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Comments: Its a decent to good climb but IMHO there are much better climbs and pitches in the Valley (ie: the Rostrum being one of them and most of the stuff at the Cookie being as good). Having said that it is a very good climb to sink your jams into


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Left Wall : Terminator (5.12)
By: chuck claude When: Dec 9, 2009

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Comments: It would be a perfect route, minus the ledge at 3/4 height. Even so its a must do route for Az.

In my mind its among the top 3 or 4 climbs in Northern AZ


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Lost Canyon : Shangri-La (5.12+)
By: chuck claude When: Nov 19, 2009

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Comments: And Josh,

I'll be taking you up on your suggestion of changing out the bolts on the top of pitch 3. I've got one Fixe with a stainless steel snapshut and have a second one on order, and hope to have it changed out by the end of November/early december of 2009. I'll also be replacing the tat on thee top of pitch 5 (summit) with chains and quicklinks which I already have


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Lost Canyon : ... : Photo
By: chuck claude When: Nov 18, 2009

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Comments: When I seconded Mike, the gear was absolutely bomber and he could have whipped at any point and it would have been a-ok (even the grey 000 BD C3 was as bomber as a cam could ever get). On top of the gear he placed , if he would have carried a few more green (0) BD C3s he could have stitched it up oven better. IMHO the gear is about the same as it is on Shotgun and the rock is solid.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Prow : Shotgun (5.12)
By: chuck claude When: Nov 10, 2009

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Comments: but for the old-timers: who did the first lead?


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Lost Canyon : Shangri-La (5.12+)
By: chuck claude When: Oct 21, 2009

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Comments: yeah, I was laughing the whole way you were doing it Mike since you were taking a perfectly good 3/5 pitch multipitch and made it into a 2 pitch sports route.

Just a note: when Mike linked the first 3 pitches we used a 70m rope (9.1mm) and when he got to the 3rd belay there was maybe 20-25ft of rope left (measured 4 lengths of my armspan)60m rope you will have to belay from the top of the pedestal at the base, and possibly may need to simulcclimb maybe 5ft.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Crime Of The Century (5.11c)
By: chuck claude When: Jul 14, 2009

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Comments: fun route with good gear. I wouldn't go a route which all finger cracks are judged against. First time I did it in 2001 my pinkie went numb from the first move.

I've done it several times since and I have to say for as low of an angle , it probably does deserve the 5.11b/c since the feet are slimy and the finger locks while positive , are really positive (ie: as said before, my fingers protest). Gear is great and is a good route to push your limit on.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Prow : Sail Away (5.12b)
By: chuck claude When: Jun 26, 2009

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Comments: I'm with Mike on this. The climbing is very good, but the 10-15ft of business is out of character with the rest of the route. As for 5.12b, I don't know. While the crux is fairy stiff with really poor feet, its just so short, and you can do a few moves and then its over.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Prow : Mayflower Direct (5.11+ PG13)
By: chuck claude When: Mar 31, 2009

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Comments: I'm with Paul on this, 5.11d seems to be a huge sandbag to me. I got my butt handed to me, and then followed CrackMD up it. No matter how you cut it, its stiff. The gear is really good with small nuts (#4), and small cams, 00 BD C3's, and the green and red BD C3's. It may have handed me my butt the first time on it but I though it was really good.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : All Along the Watchtower (5.11 C2- R)
By: chuck claude When: Sep 11, 2008

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Comments: So on what pitch warrants the R rating. Is it the .11c traverse? or down below. I was hoping to do it this last summer but knee surgery precluded it so I'm hoping for next summer.

Any info would be greatly appreciated


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Pillow Wall : Davidson Dihedral (5.11+)
By: chuck claude When: Jul 30, 2008

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Comments: Paul, I guess its all what our strengths are . For me I find Davidsons Dihedral pretty easy having lead it twice in a 20 minute period, but I would be wasted if I tried to lead Mutiny twice in 20 minutes


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Prow : Mutiny on the Bounty (5.11+)
By: chuck claude When: May 10, 2007

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Comments: As with everything people have different suggestions, My gear list is usually 1 green alien (I use a red BD C3), heavy in blue BD microcams (0.3) and grey BD microcams (0.4) and then 2 0.5 camalot jr, and 3 0.75 camalot jrs and no (0) 1.0camalots (red)


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Davidson Wall : Paradise Lost (5.12- PG13)
By: chuck claude When: Apr 27, 2007

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Comments: It is fairly uprotected to get started, but I don't think the route is PG13, its about as protected as it gets. The pro on the normal start is better then the direct start which I prefer nowadays. The direct start is clean, fun version with three moves but is totally unprotected.

Its also probably one of the top routes at Paradise Forks


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Davidson Wall : Three Turkeys (5.11c)
By: chuck claude When: Apr 27, 2007

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Comments: One of my favorite leads in the Forks. The lieback flake is good fun and the upper baby butt crack is interesting.

gear beta: a red camalot placed at the base of the baby butt crack (after the lieback flake) will make you feel like you can wing anywhere on the rest of the route and you'd be safe.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Pillow Wall : Davidson Dihedral (5.11+)
By: chuck claude When: Apr 27, 2007

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Comments: On lead it slimy but really not THAT bad, actually pretty soft for a 5.11d especially as compared to Mutiny on the Bounty on the Prow Wall. No nuts are really necessary. A suggested rack for an onsite attempt (which will leave you with ample gear choices) rack is 2x0.3 microcamalots (blue), 3x0.4 microcamalots (grey), 2x 0.5 camalot jrs (maroon), and 2x0.75 camalot jrs (green). Its super fun and I will usually lead it every or every other time I'm at the Forks.


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