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First climb after knee surgery <br />


Member Since: Jul 24, 2006
Last Visit: Aug 26, 2014
Contact chuck claude


Point Rank: # 2,091
Total Points: 269
Last Year: 6
Last 30 Days: 0
13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has chuck claude been climbing?










Contributions


All 399 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 41 | Page Improvements | Comments 44 | Posts 258 | Stars 43 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Lost Canyon : ... : Photo
By: chuck claude When: Nov 18, 2009

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Comments: When I seconded Mike, the gear was absolutely bomber and he could have whipped at any point and it would have been a-ok (even the grey 000 BD C3 was as bomber as a cam could ever get). On top of the gear he placed , if he would have carried a few more green (0) BD C3s he could have stitched it up oven better. IMHO the gear is about the same as it is on Shotgun and the rock is solid.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Prow : Shotgun (5.12)
By: chuck claude When: Nov 10, 2009

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Comments: but for the old-timers: who did the first lead?


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Lost Canyon : Shangri-La (5.12+)
By: chuck claude When: Oct 21, 2009

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Comments: yeah, I was laughing the whole way you were doing it Mike since you were taking a perfectly good 3/5 pitch multipitch and made it into a 2 pitch sports route.

Just a note: when Mike linked the first 3 pitches we used a 70m rope (9.1mm) and when he got to the 3rd belay there was maybe 20-25ft of rope left (measured 4 lengths of my armspan)60m rope you will have to belay from the top of the pedestal at the base, and possibly may need to simulcclimb maybe 5ft.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Crime Of The Century (5.11c)
By: chuck claude When: Jul 14, 2009

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Comments: fun route with good gear. I wouldn't go a route which all finger cracks are judged against. First time I did it in 2001 my pinkie went numb from the first move.

I've done it several times since and I have to say for as low of an angle , it probably does deserve the 5.11b/c since the feet are slimy and the finger locks while positive , are really positive (ie: as said before, my fingers protest). Gear is great and is a good route to push your limit on.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Prow : Sail Away (5.12b)
By: chuck claude When: Jun 26, 2009

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Comments: I'm with Mike on this. The climbing is very good, but the 10-15ft of business is out of character with the rest of the route. As for 5.12b, I don't know. While the crux is fairy stiff with really poor feet, its just so short, and you can do a few moves and then its over.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Prow : Mayflower Direct (5.11+ PG13)
By: chuck claude When: Mar 31, 2009

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Comments: I'm with Paul on this, 5.11d seems to be a huge sandbag to me. I got my butt handed to me, and then followed CrackMD up it. No matter how you cut it, its stiff. The gear is really good with small nuts (#4), and small cams, 00 BD C3's, and the green and red BD C3's. It may have handed me my butt the first time on it but I though it was really good.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : All Along the Watchtower (5.11 C2- R)
By: chuck claude When: Sep 11, 2008

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Comments: So on what pitch warrants the R rating. Is it the .11c traverse? or down below. I was hoping to do it this last summer but knee surgery precluded it so I'm hoping for next summer.

Any info would be greatly appreciated


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Pillow Wall : Davidson Dihedral (5.11+)
By: chuck claude When: Jul 30, 2008

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Comments: Paul, I guess its all what our strengths are . For me I find Davidsons Dihedral pretty easy having lead it twice in a 20 minute period, but I would be wasted if I tried to lead Mutiny twice in 20 minutes


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Prow : Mutiny on the Bounty (5.11+)
By: chuck claude When: May 10, 2007

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Comments: As with everything people have different suggestions, My gear list is usually 1 green alien (I use a red BD C3), heavy in blue BD microcams (0.3) and grey BD microcams (0.4) and then 2 0.5 camalot jr, and 3 0.75 camalot jrs and no (0) 1.0camalots (red)


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Davidson Wall : Paradise Lost (5.12- PG13)
By: chuck claude When: Apr 27, 2007

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Comments: It is fairly uprotected to get started, but I don't think the route is PG13, its about as protected as it gets. The pro on the normal start is better then the direct start which I prefer nowadays. The direct start is clean, fun version with three moves but is totally unprotected.

Its also probably one of the top routes at Paradise Forks


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Davidson Wall : Three Turkeys (5.11c)
By: chuck claude When: Apr 27, 2007

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Comments: One of my favorite leads in the Forks. The lieback flake is good fun and the upper baby butt crack is interesting.

gear beta: a red camalot placed at the base of the baby butt crack (after the lieback flake) will make you feel like you can wing anywhere on the rest of the route and you'd be safe.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Pillow Wall : Davidson Dihedral (5.11+)
By: chuck claude When: Apr 27, 2007

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Comments: On lead it slimy but really not THAT bad, actually pretty soft for a 5.11d especially as compared to Mutiny on the Bounty on the Prow Wall. No nuts are really necessary. A suggested rack for an onsite attempt (which will leave you with ample gear choices) rack is 2x0.3 microcamalots (blue), 3x0.4 microcamalots (grey), 2x 0.5 camalot jrs (maroon), and 2x0.75 camalot jrs (green). Its super fun and I will usually lead it every or every other time I'm at the Forks.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Best crag in the USA/world to telework?General Climbingchuck claudeMar 22, 2014
re: Comparing climbing grades to running timesGeneral Climbingchuck claudeMar 8, 2014
re: Comparing climbing grades to running timesGeneral Climbingchuck claudeMar 8, 2014
re: Comparing climbing grades to running timesGeneral Climbingchuck claudeMar 8, 2014
re: People with injuries/issues who use belay glassesGeneral Climbingchuck claudeMar 5, 2014
re: question for older climbersTraining Forumchuck claudeJan 22, 2014
re: question for older climbersTraining Forumchuck claudeJan 21, 2014
re: Strange denizens of the gym/cragGeneral Climbingchuck claudeJan 17, 2014
re: Strange denizens of the gym/cragGeneral Climbingchuck claudeJan 16, 2014
re: Climbing an art to you?General Climbingchuck claudeJan 11, 2014
re: You might be a climber if...General Climbingchuck claudeDec 27, 2013
re: Climbing might be more dangerous than once thoughCommunity Forumchuck claudeDec 16, 2013
re: climbing pantsClimbing Gear Discussionchuck claudeDec 15, 2013
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