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First climb after knee surgery <br />


Member Since: Jul 24, 2006
Last Visit: Aug 26, 2014
Contact chuck claude


Point Rank: # 2,096
Total Points: 269
Last Year: 6
Last 30 Days: 0
13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has chuck claude been climbing?










Contributions


All 399 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 41 | Page Improvements | Comments 44 | Posts 258 | Stars 43 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Family Home Night (5.12)
By: chuck claude When: Oct 24, 2011

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Comments: In the facey section I got a ok nut in, nothing to protect me from a reasonble whipper but good enough to let me get a tight but GOOD purple (00) BD C3 and then a foot later a beautiful green (0)BD C3. I also thought that I'd finish the route at the top on only 0.75 BD C4's but I was glad to have a red (1.0) BD C4 for the end.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Gold Wall : Ice Cream Dreams, AKA Acid... (5.12 PG13)
By: chuck claude When: Oct 2, 2011

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Comments: Just as a warning for October 2011. There is a large wasp nests in the top of the hand pod about 1/3 of the way up the route. Man, were they pissed when I disturbed them.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Puzzle Factory (5.12)
By: chuck claude When: Aug 25, 2011

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Comments: And how does it compare to Ruby's outside they are both corners and at Indian Creek? Ruby's is tight fingers to perfect fingers to a roof and back to tight fingers. The other is wideness to rattley fingers (for me). Am I missing something?


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : East Sector : Comp Rock : The Comp Wall : Splitter (5.11b)
By: chuck claude When: Jul 1, 2011

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Comments: I found this to be one of the best routes I found in COR or Castle (although I would love to go back to look at the .12 on Bradseick Spire since I didn't get a chance to look at it on my last trip.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Upper Broadloaves - North : Interceptor (5.11a)
By: chuck claude When: Jul 1, 2011

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Comments: I find the crux going from the traverse into the crack before you get perfect hands. After that its really steep (maybe 15ft and not the 30ft someone suggested)of really fun climbing.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Crack of Doom (5.11c)
By: chuck claude When: Jul 1, 2011

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Comments: The route is good (and one of my favorite at the City- led it twice on my last trip) and once in 2005. The only reason I gave it two stars is because its a 5.11 boulder problem (which was really fun) with a 5.10 crack. The offwidth is really mellow where you can reach through most of the wide stuff. Gear: a quickdraw for the piton, two small stoppers, a few green and red C3's, a couple of blue and grey 0.3 and 0.4 C4's, 1 0.5 C4 and then a a couple of yellow (2) and blue (3) C4's and if you wish... more >>


Location: Colorado : Shitty Anchors at Shelf Roa... : Post : Photo
By: chuck claude When: Jun 6, 2011

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Comments: doesn't look so bad to me. well equalized....


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Pringles (5.11+)
By: chuck claude When: Apr 20, 2011

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Comments: Gear goes from green C4 (0.75) down to green C3 (0) with a purple C3 then a red C4 (1) with lots in the 0.3 (blue C4) and 0.4 (grey C4)_ sizes if I remember right. The crux is contrived but it is pretty good fun. Easily leadable and fairly safe with a crux that makes you think more then just jam, jam, jam


Location: chuck claude : personal : Photo
By: chuck claude When: Jan 13, 2011

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Comments: its on the way into the Bugaboo's, which have amazing climbing)


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Red Planet (5.13)
By: chuck claude When: Nov 1, 2010

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Comments: Gear list is

Green BD C3 to Green 0.75 with a yellow #2 C4 or Red #1 C4 (they protect the same section).

3-4 0.75 C4's
2-3 0.5 C4's
2-3 0.4 C4's
2 0.3 C4
2-3 BD 1 C3 (or 0.2C4)
yellow/red C4
4 draws for the route and then 2 for the anchor draws

or atleast that is what I use


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Yorkshire Gripper (5.11b)
By: chuck claude When: Aug 26, 2010

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Comments: I agree with Lizzy. The direct start over the overhang was pretty easy. The mid-crux between the two cracks while a crux, IMHO it was insignificant compared to the end.

For a rack several BD 0.5 (purples) fit beautifully after the overhang in the direct start, in the lower crack and in the upper crack. I used the suggestion about small TCU's but only placed on and it wasn't really necessary. for me 0.3 (Blue) BD camalot to 0.5 (purple) BD camalot and a yellow one for the direct start


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Puppy Dome : Do or Fly (5.11c)
By: chuck claude When: Jun 29, 2010

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Comments: With small gear and a blue C4 (memory is bad in my old age, but I'm 90% sure that its the blue C4; is correct) at the crux, the beginning isn't that bad to protect and the crux is short (I'm 100% sure on that). When I first tried it years ago, I was only getting close to the grade and thought it was reasonable.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Prow : Shotgun (5.12)
By: chuck claude When: May 30, 2010

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Comments: You led Janed Fonda's and was wondering if Shotgun would be a safe lead. Sounds sort of backwards.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Gold Wall
By: chuck claude When: May 2, 2010

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Comments: So whats te background of "An Uncertain Violence". The fingers section looks fun.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The White Wall : Popeye (5.12b/c R)
By: chuck claude When: May 1, 2010

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Comments: Matt Swartz led it with Keith Beckley belaying. Matt says he thinks his was the second lead.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The White Wall : Prudence (5.11c)
By: chuck claude When: May 1, 2010

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Comments: IThe start may be a bit scarey but atleast the start is mercifully short.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Red Planet (5.13)
By: chuck claude When: Apr 18, 2010

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Comments: Ok now its

1)John Mattson
2)Peewee Oullett
3)Nick Berry
4)Kyle Edmonson(fall 2009)
5)Ben Williams (spring 2010)
6)Matt Swartz (Spring 2010)
7)Alex Honnold (summer 2010)(onsight: based on second hand sources so it could be wrong)
8) Jeff Snyder (Oct 2011)

I think I got the order right. Hell, with all the traffic it's seeing, it saw 4 ascents in it's first 11 years, but it may see 4 ascents this year.

Note: the first pitch continues to get clearer/worse. Jeff dislodged the huge flake before th... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Red Planet (5.13)
By: chuck claude When: Mar 29, 2010

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Comments: More than that,

after the first ascent by John Matteson, ATLEAST Kyle, PeeWee, Ben, Nick, and those are the people I know of (or atleast heard of second hand) and I expect there are probably several/many more. Its a hard route but very doable.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Pumphouse Wash : The Ultimates/Mexican Pocke... : Ultimate Finger Crack (5.11+)
By: chuck claude When: Feb 3, 2010

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Comments: how can this be PG13? The gear is about as good as its going to get. Great climbing but sort of isolated.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Outer Limits (5.10c)
By: chuck claude When: Jan 14, 2010

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Comments: its a great climb. Doing the 2nd pitch going to the left is also very good.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Outer Limits (5.10c) : Photo
By: chuck claude When: Jan 14, 2010

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Comments: The photo is amazing, irregardless of how it got to the final form..... nice job


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Butterballs (5.11c)
By: chuck claude When: Jan 14, 2010

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Comments: just a great finger crack


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Reed's Pinnacle Area : Lunatic Fringe (5.10c)
By: chuck claude When: Jan 14, 2010

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Comments: Its a decent to good climb but IMHO there are much better climbs and pitches in the Valley (ie: the Rostrum being one of them and most of the stuff at the Cookie being as good). Having said that it is a very good climb to sink your jams into


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Left Wall : Terminator (5.12)
By: chuck claude When: Dec 9, 2009

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Comments: It would be a perfect route, minus the ledge at 3/4 height. Even so its a must do route for Az.

In my mind its among the top 3 or 4 climbs in Northern AZ


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Lost Canyon : Shangri-La (5.12+)
By: chuck claude When: Nov 19, 2009

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Comments: And Josh,

I'll be taking you up on your suggestion of changing out the bolts on the top of pitch 3. I've got one Fixe with a stainless steel snapshut and have a second one on order, and hope to have it changed out by the end of November/early december of 2009. I'll also be replacing the tat on thee top of pitch 5 (summit) with chains and quicklinks which I already have


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