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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : Ruby Slippers (5.11a/b)
By: Christian When: 1 day ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Lol, Jon says he can't onsight 11b a couple of months before sending 12 b/c.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Single Lens Reflex (5.10)
By: Christian When: May 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe Steve Grossman chopped the anchors that Ben Burnham added without consulting him.
The bolted anchors on Stoner's Boner are quite a ways to the left but could be made to work.
I think I used the same option Clay mentions above.
And then there is the option of climbing another 20-25 feet from the first set of chopped bolts (Stoner's Boner height) of somewhat runout stuff to another ledge higher. This has slightly better placements for an anchor that is directly in line with the rest o... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : Business as Usual (5.10+)
By: Christian When: Apr 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you belay up near the cactus, a 70m will get you lowered off the first pitch, but tie a knot in the end. If your rope is even a few feet short, the belayer will have to climb up the route a bit to get the climber to a stance.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : All Things Considered (5.11-)
By: Christian When: Apr 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The giant block near the top looks sketchy, but it's wedged in there pretty well.
Good variety of climbing on this route: tips crack, technical face/arete and juggy bulge pulling. Could use some more traffic to get some of the lichen/sliminess off.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : Jack the Slipper (5.9-)
By: Christian When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mislabeled as two pitches on here, see "Paganizer" route here for description of what you did.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : Glowing In The Distance (5.9)
By: Christian When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route that shares the first bolt and goes left w 9+/10a climbing IS "Glowing". Tony's sandbagging it to 8+ and Rock Climbing Arizona calling it an entirely different name ("Gridlocked" 10 b/c) doesn't help the confusion.
The newer and easier route that shares the first bolt and then goes right is "Perrito".
The next route left of "Glowing" is "Mogenhead".
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tanque Verde Canyon : The Tool Shed
By: Christian When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: math.fullerton.edu/tmcmillen/TucsonBouldering.pdf
Page 13 has a map and description of the bouldering in the Tanque Verde Wash, at the fork head left slightly uphill towards "cliff" instead of down into wash. Pretty easy to see the formation from the road.
approx parking coordinates
32°15'26.02"N
110°39'1.84"W
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tanque Verde Canyon : The Tool Shed
By: Christian When: Apr 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: If it's sunny, probably needs to be below 65F for a high to be even remotely comfortable after 10 or 11 AM. I can show you where it is next winter if better directions have not been posted by then.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Cochise Dome (What's My Lin... : ... : Photo
By: Christian When: Mar 5, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is that the famous "Spaghetti Nightmare" coiling method?
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Solar Flare (5.11)
By: Christian When: Feb 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty classic for a Mt. Lemmon trad climb; glad the bolts were removed.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Milagrosa Canyon (La Milagr...
By: Christian When: Feb 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rock is pretty soft there and a couple of years ago my climber pulled off a huge block on "Send It" that came out from behind a hold that had been pulled on for a decade. Watch your climber so you have time to react if something like that does happen.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Flogging the Bishop (5.12b)
By: Christian When: Feb 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I said "fractured", not "loose". I was there last week and it seems fine around that area, so I have no idea whether something physically changed or I was overreacting to begin with.
It was probably not too long after Kreidel pulled off a huge block (and part of an established hold) when I was belaying him at Milagrosa. It landed a few inches behind my head, but only because I was watching him carefully and had some extra time to step forward.
P.S. The top seems like it should be easy but it'... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Ain't no Sunshine When it's... (5.10+)
By: Christian When: Feb 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sharp.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Cell Block Eight (5.8)
By: Christian When: Feb 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mixed climb, R-rated without gear.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Machinegun (5.7)
By: Christian When: Feb 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mixed climb, R-rated without gear
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Birdman (5.7)
By: Christian When: Feb 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mixed climb, R-rated without gear.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Dragon's Arete (5.8)
By: Christian When: Feb 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mixed climb, R-rated without gear.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Mug Shot (5.8+)
By: Christian When: Feb 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mixed climb, R-rated without gear.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Off Scott Free (5.9+)
By: Christian When: Feb 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mixed climb, R-rated without gear.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Mr. Meanor (5.8+)
By: Christian When: Feb 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mixed climb, R-rated without gear
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : Jailhouse Rock
By: Christian When: Feb 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The abundance of easy climbs makes this area a magnet for beginners. Nevertheless, there are many MIXED climbs here. That means you need trad gear to climb them safely. Check and double-check what you are getting on so you don't unwittingly climb into ground/serious injury fall territory.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Cell Block Nine (5.9)
By: Christian When: Feb 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mixed climb, R-rated without gear.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Cell Block Eight (5.8)
By: Christian When: Feb 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: If I remember correctly, without gear the runout between bolts 3 and 4 is at least 15 feet.
You can make all the dorky engineering calculations you want to try to convince yourself that a 35-foot fall on 5.8 slab is safe, but trust me, it's not. You may get freakishly lucky once and not hit anything on the way down or not flip upside down and swing in headfirst, but eventually you will get seriously injured. In a fall that long, even swinging back in feet-first can break foot/ankle/leg bones.
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Location: Other Sports : surfing and wave sailing vo... : Post : Photo
By: Christian When: Jan 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Damn, wish I could surf Honolua w 3 other guys out :-)
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Hour of Power (5.12a)
By: Christian When: Jan 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: 70m reaches the platform you belay from (up a ramp and below the first bolt).
Crux on the bottom part is height-dependent and the second half is just kind of spooky.
Extend the two bolts to the side of the giant flake so that the rope clears the flake when you move left at the end of the route.
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