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Los Hermanos


Member Since: Jul 22, 2005
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 331
Total Points: 1,744
Last Year: 104
Last 30 Days: 1
53 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Christian been climbing?










Contributions


All 2565 | Routes 27 | Areas 4 | Photos 191 | Page Improvements | Comments 459 | Posts 992 | Stars 459 | Ratings 433
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Hairy Interlude (5.11)
By: Christian When: Feb 13, 2015

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Comments: Charles, the BD .4 did not pull when she first fell on it but then pulled after when she was hanging on it?

There must be something that holds body weight near the crux somewhere because I took on cams around the crux at least twice. That was years ago when the route first went up, so maybe the rock has gotten smoother since?

Anyway, scary stuff! Glad nobody got hurt.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Fear of Intimacy (5.11+)
By: Christian When: Jan 12, 2015

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Comments: 25 cm draws on bolts 3 and 4 might work to eliminate the rope drag up high.

17 cm + unclipping bolt 4 didn't seem to completely eliminate it.

It's possible some of the draws in the middle should be long too.

Stick-clipping second bolt also recommended, rock is still friable.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Lost Feather (5.11-)
By: Christian When: Jan 12, 2015

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Comments: For whatever reason, anchors are set way back.

Long slings and ATC to rap recommended (you could probably figure out some counterweight deal to rap w a Grigri, but seems like a lot of work and/or weight to climb with).


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Mounds (5.10- X)
By: Christian When: Jan 2, 2015

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Comments: Agree w Luke, especially since this area attracts climbers who will not have a clue about what they're yarding on.

Unless anchored short, the belayer standing to the side is not a foolproof solution; it depends on the timing of the block's fall vs leader's fall, weight differentials between climber and belayer, etc..It is quite possible for the belayer to get pulled into the path of the block.

It's not likely, but a block could also sever the rope.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Unnamed Mixed Route (5.10a/b)
By: Christian When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: Since this climb is popular w beginning trad leaders and I'm pretty sure the first piece is a stopper (for whatever reason, it's hard to get a cam in the same spot), a word of advice: Don't allow your belayer to stand 10 feet back from the wall when belaying on this.

The further out he/she stands, the greater the chance of bottom-up zippering that first piece if you fall after placing a second piece, at which point you'll be relying on one piece to keep you off the ground.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tanque Verde Canyon : The Tool Shed : Don't Tell (5.12-)
By: Christian When: Dec 22, 2014

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Comments: No, was actually about the third (or at most fourth) bolt once past the ledge, think I sidepulled the crack way right and leaned way left to clip.

It's about as safely bolted as it can be, but the ledge being so close probably had me overgripping to some extent on the whole bottom section.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tanque Verde Canyon : The Tool Shed : Don't Tell (5.12-)
By: Christian When: Dec 22, 2014

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Comments: Also had way more runs on this than first expected, and some clipping shenanigans where reach was crucial (baffled about how Joe did that part).

Stout redpoint for Mr Shiefman.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Photo
By: Christian When: Nov 10, 2014

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Comments: This is the exact line I took to keep it in the grade, going straight up through the first 3 bolts is significantly harder.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Reiterate (5.11+)
By: Christian When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: Some kind of critter has excavated a residence in the dirt to the left of the block at the top.

I would have liked to clean some of it off, but there was so much debris on the ledge/horizontal at the top that I couldn't even finish the climb.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Black Stain (5.7)
By: Christian When: Jun 10, 2014

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Comments: Good one for the kiddos, my daughter loved this route.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Photo
By: Christian When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: Hahaha I must have been quite enamored with that rock, too bad it didn't return my affections and spit me off on my flash attempt :-)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : The Fish (5.12b)
By: Christian When: May 17, 2014

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Comments: Finally got out there today and cleaned the loose block. What was left above the block didn't budge with the pry bar and should be OK for now.

The thing on the right my friend Greg had mentioned felt and sounded OK so I didn't touch it.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : It's A Wanderful Life (5.11+)
By: Christian When: May 17, 2014

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Comments: I didn't onsight, messed up the beta at the crux. Once Jim gave me some tips felt like about mid 11. Will add to the ratings even though I haven't gone back to tick it.

PS Got on this again a couple of years later and missed a hold at the crux again.

If you want it to feel like low 11, it's probably better to do as two pitches. Even if you manage to completely eliminate the rope drag by using all 25 cm quickdraws, doing it as one pitch is probably gonna feel at least a letter grade or two har... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Photo
By: Christian When: Apr 25, 2014

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Comments: You mean "Jr Gripper" p 177?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Isle of You : Grad Rock
By: Christian When: Apr 4, 2014

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Comments: Sucks man, hope it turns up.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Air Monsters (5.12a)
By: Christian When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: I don't know, coming home w blue lipstick instead of red might buy me a few seconds before the rolling pins and frying pans start flying :-)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Air Monsters (5.12a)
By: Christian When: Mar 30, 2014

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Comments: I don't know, heard or read somewhere it was hard to get off with hand tools? Is that what you use?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Air Monsters (5.12a)
By: Christian When: Mar 30, 2014

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Comments: walmart.com/ip/Permatex-Medium...


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Triangulate (5.10+)
By: Christian When: Mar 6, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for fixing this Eric, I lowered off that last bolt myself back in 2005 or so. *yikes* Donated to the ASCA last year when somebody (forgot who) was matching 100% of the donation. Glad to see it put to good use.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Arizona Flyways (5.11b/c)
By: Christian When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: Try to put some blue Loctite on the threads when you put the hanger back on.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : The Wizard (5.12a)
By: Christian When: Feb 17, 2014

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Comments: A couple of the nuts on the bolts in the middle (that probably see a lot of whippers) are loose and I didn't have my wrench at the time. Hand tightened as best I could.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Three Sheets To The Wind (5.11)
By: Christian When: Feb 15, 2014

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Comments: It's not unsafe, but you'd probably want your belayer on their toes for the crux moves. On the second ledge up high, it's easy to forget the bolt is even there, don't forget to peek around the corner and clip it.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Photo
By: Christian When: Feb 4, 2014

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Comments: Lol, I remember clipping that thing.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Arterial Flow (5.11+)
By: Christian When: Jan 24, 2014

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Comments: Bottom crux seems harder, wonder if something came off?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Triangulate (5.10+)
By: Christian When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for posting Greg, was gonna post it a few years back but then I realized I couldn't remember where the anchors were. I think I ended up going right to the anchors for GAC Rulz? Also, can't remember if I brought the second up or they weren't interested in climbing it and I was able to clean it from those anchors.


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