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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway
By: Christian Prellwitz When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: The gate has been open for a while. The road is in its usual shape.
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Location: NH : Rumney
By: Christian Prellwitz When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: twellman-- I've always used my national parks pass and I've never had an issue (in terms of getting a ticket). I believe that somewhere (perhaps on the parking lot signs) it says that the pass is accepted. I simply leave the card on my dash.
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Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Pound Crack Boulder : The Return of The Blot (V2)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: May 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yah Matt, I wasn't referring to your description of the 'flake at 4 feet' as much as I was referring to the same description in the guidebook. I agree with you that six feet is more accurate and makes sense with the description and grade given.
And I also agree with your second answer. I had the same thought. 'The Thwart' is probably the v3 variation that we are talking about and the arrow simply points the wrong way.
You've managed to pick up on a number of the discrepancies in the guideboo... more >>
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Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Pound Crack Boulder : The Return of The Blot (V2)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: May 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm confused as to what 'flake at 4 feet' you are supposed to start on for the v3 variation. The one like a foot right of the starting jug of the normal problem? Or one of the two further right? Both of which are closer to six feet off the ground, not four.
While I'm on the subject of confusion, I can't for the life of me figure out where the problem listed as 'The Thwart' in the guidebook is supposed to be located. Any thoughts on either of these?
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Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Pound Crack Boulder : The Blot (V2+)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: May 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: If by 'arete', you mean the lip of the boulder just to the right of the corner as you near the top, it seems silly not to use it. That would be highly contrived. Not using it is a little more sustained and awkward, but not necessarily any harder.
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Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Zig Zag Boulder : The Truth (V4)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: May 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I finally climbed this yesterday. Matt is not lying- these are some incredibly small starting holds. But, it's surprisingly doable. And surprisingly good.
One move climbs like this are hard to grade because they're mostly about finger strength (and some technique). I was able to flash it, but v4 seems reasonable compared with other climbs in the area.
It's like a shorter, easier version of 'Dave's Variation' to Zig Zag. :) Nice find guys!
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Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ilium Boulders
By: Christian Prellwitz When: May 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Telluride Bouldering Beta Part 4- More From The Ilium Boulders.
Here's another video that was filmed during the Fall of 2012. The goal was to continue to showcase some of best problems in Telluride, at all grades. I also made it a point to show some newer problems that were cleaned and climbed since the guidebook came out. These include 'Year Of Hibernation', 'Rainy Days In Bas Cu... more >>
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Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : The Cove
By: Christian Prellwitz When: May 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Telluride Bouldering Beta Part 3- The Cove & Society Turn.
Here's a video I made this winter featuring some of the best problems at The Cove. (It also features footage from Society Turn.) Problems shown include: 'Sometimes I Still Feel The Bruise, Right Exit' (V0), 'Flat Top Left Arete' (V3/4), 'Dyno-mite' (V6) and 'The Lesson' (jump start, V3/4).
Some of the grades are different ... more >>
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Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Society Turn
By: Christian Prellwitz When: May 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Society Turn isn't for everyone. It is located a short distance off a busy intersection (for Telluride) leading to a fair amount of road noise. Many of the problems don't top out and the best/hardest problems are often contrivances or eliminates, and don't even get me started on the bat guano....
However, if you put all of that aside, this area has a lot to offer the Telluride area climber. The cliff is owned by the Access Fund, so access will never be an issue. It is almost always dry, includi... more >>
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Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Society Turn
By: Christian Prellwitz When: May 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Telluride Bouldering Beta Part 3- The Cove & Society Turn.
Here is a video I made this winter (2012-13) featuring some of the best problems at Society Turn. (It also features problems from The Cove.) Footage from Society Turn begins at 2:26. Problems shown include: 'The Alien Traverse' (v6/7), 'Yarra River Eliminate' (v4/5) and 'Frosted Flakes Sit' (v5). Hopefully, this entices peo... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Red Spring Boulders : Tsunami Boulder : The Offering Scam (V3)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Apr 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not a bad climb. A good warmup for the other lines. Decent/good crimps with tricky feet. A good intro to the style of climbing on this boulder.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Red Spring Boulders : Tsunami Boulder : The Prayer (V6)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Apr 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is outstanding! It is, indeed, highly aesthetic (as is this whole boulder) and the movement flows really well. It is tall enough to add a little excitement, but with a flat and easily padded landing.
Beautiful!
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Rock Creek Bouldering : ... : Problem B (V6)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Apr 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Short, but packs a punch! There is some trickery that makes this a little easier.
If you figure out this move, it makes 'Overzealous' a bit easier to finish.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Rock Creek Bouldering : ... : Blood Brothers (V7)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Apr 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: For those who cannot do it in one long move (and it is a very LONG move!), good technique and/or trickery will allow for a series of steady bumps along poor slopers in order to reach the big, distant sloper.
Rocking onto the slab is not as easy as it looks, especially if you're tired/pumped. Be prepared!
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Rock Creek Bouldering : ... : Downclimb (V0)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Apr 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Harder going down than up on this one!
It should be noted that a lot of people use the tree (near the top of Blood Brothers) to descend. A bit of a fire pole slide!
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Rock Creek Bouldering : ... : Osama (V6)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Apr 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Too bad, because the toe hook/heel hook cross through is such a fun and cool move! Another great climb.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Rock Creek Bouldering : ... : Weapon of Choice (V3+)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Apr 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crimps are somewhat painful, but the movement is really cool. I especially like the fact that there are many different ways to do this problem, which allows people of all sizes to figure out beta that works for them.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Rock Creek Bouldering : ... : Pull Down Like De Jesus (V4)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Apr 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I love this climb. It has great movement and friendly holds.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Rock Creek Bouldering : ... : Camel Love (V4)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Apr 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, this problem is phenomenal. What a great addition to the area!
Even though the flake is 'off', I didn't feel like this problem climbs contrived at all.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Rock Creek Bouldering : ... : Groove and Arete (V4)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Apr 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an example of a problem that is not improved by starting sitting. Starting one move higher, the problem climbs beautifully. The sit is awkward and thrutchy. While it is the 'full tick', it certainly isn't more enjoyable.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Rock Creek Bouldering : ... : Problem A (V0)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Apr 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty awkward...
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Rock Creek Bouldering : ... : Off the Couch (V6)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Apr 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Given the wide variations in height and ape index (as Jason stated), talking about how many pads you're 'allowed' to stack is pretty irrelevant. Since this problem's difficulty is a byproduct of being stretched at the start, a fairer start would involve:
-each person stacking as many pads as they need in order to reach the starting crimp while standing on your tippy toes
For shorter people that might be five pads. For someone tall (like Tavis, based on all his commments :) ), it might be one o... more >>
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Scoop Area : The Next Message (V7)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Apr 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Personally, I appreciate the beta spraydown. The good thing about beta is that, so long as it isn't in the problem description, you can always choose to ignore it. However, if you are struggling to piece it together, especially on slightly more obscure problems like this one, some friendly beta sharing can be a useful tool.
So, thanks Noah.
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Fisherman Boulder (Fundy Bo...
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: noah--
i'd be psyched to check it out, being a huge fan of slabs. but, i won't be back in nh until early may. if you're still looking for a partner then, i'll definitely venture out with you. hopefully it won't be too warm by then.
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Scoop Area : Jeremy's Sick Crimps (V9)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Noah, I think that's a fair assessment. I didn't use a heel toe cam (see the video above) but I did put my feet out right (right foot on, left foot flagged a bit). Even without the heel toe cam, it's probably closer to v5/6 (maybe). You'd have to really be using no technique at all to make this feel v9. :)
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