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Member Since: Mar 26, 2010
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Christian Prellwitz


Point Rank: # 370
Total Points: 1,519
Last Year: 794
Last 30 Days: 53
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Christian Prellwitz been climbing?










Christian Prellwitz

 
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All 1826 | Routes 63 | Areas 8 | Photos 88 | Page Improvments | Comments 329 | Posts 18 | Stars 705 | Ratings 615
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Block : The Block Problem (V9)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: 15 hours ago

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Comments: I'm not sure how it was originally done, but most people definitely use it.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : Entrance Boulders : cavers direct (V10)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: 15 hours ago

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Comments: Ian--

I don't have an answer for you, but I do agree with you. Everybody starts this problem differently and it makes a big difference in the grade. But, the lack of obvious starting holds is one of the reasons why this climb is only so so and why I've never had much interest in it. How did you do it?


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : Spragueasorus Boulder (aka ... : Nowhere Man (V7)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: 16 hours ago

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Comments: Ian-

No problem. I enjoy putting the videos together.

Let me assure you, there are plenty of climbs that I struggle on. But, thank you for the compliment.

Maybe someone will put together a video of the problems I can't do so I can steal their beta! Please!! :)


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Ricochet Boulder : Cilley Old Man (V6)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: 16 hours ago

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Comments: What's the difference between this climb and 'Cilley Groove'? Perhaps someone with more knowledge, like Mark, can shed some light, but I'm pretty sure that this problem, as described, IS 'Cilley Groove'.

This is the easiest and most obvious way to climb the dihedral/groove feature, which is what 'Cilley Groove' is supposed to do. If they're different, what's the beta for 'Cilley Groove' then?

Thoughts?


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Zig Zag Boulder : Good Morning Midnight (V3+)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: 16 hours ago

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Comments: Matt-

You should take a photo of the starting holds because I didn't find them to be all that obvious. I was fortunate because there was chalk on them. Shorter folks will likely have to use a couple of pads to reach the starting holds from a sit.

A fun little line. Looks like you could do something to the right of this as well (and left of Metallic).


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : Inverted Boulder : Press Release (V4+)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: 16 hours ago

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Comments: This is actually a pretty cool climb. I thought the crux was the move to the top. It is very reachy no matter how you do it. I climbed through the bottom section fairly easily only to get shut down on the move to the top several times. It took me a while to figure out something that would work. A bit sharp, but it climbs well.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : Inverted Boulder : Inverted Siberian Husky (V5)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: 16 hours ago

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Comments: Sustained indeed. Excellent movement, though a bit contrived.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Yosemite Boulder Area : Death of the Blues (V4+)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: 6 days ago

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Comments: This does probably deserve a second chance. I thought it was a decent climb. But, it felt more like v3 to me from the sit and the first move to the large flat jug is probably the crux. The rest of the climb is pretty straight forward and doesn't require anywhere near as many moves as described above.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Hillside (aka Summit Boulde... : John's Problem (V4)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Jul 17, 2014

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Comments: This might be a little hard for the grade. It's hard for me to say since it's to my strengths as a climber, but it definitely requires a cool mix of power and technique.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Hillside (aka Summit Boulde... : Ethnic Cleansing (V6-7)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Jul 17, 2014

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Comments: This ended up climbing so much differently than I expected it to. My beta was similar to Bryce's. (So thanks for the beta!)

It also ended up being nowhere near as cool as I thought it would be. If only this climbed as good as it looked. Bizarre and difficult to grade.

I also thought the finishing moves (after establishing on the slab) would be more casual than they ended up being. I climbed this today and the slab was still damp from the heavy rain over the past few days. That made the tenuou... more >>


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Hillside (aka Summit Boulde... : Flower Child (V5)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Jul 17, 2014

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Comments: The toe hook makes this problem quite enjoyable and likely easier than your original method, Bryce. It should be noted that if you're on the short side, the toe hook beta might not even be possible.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Warmup Area : Red Fish (V4)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: I'm going to be honest, this description is pretty confusing. I decided to give this some goes yesterday while I was warming up to see if I could figure out what's going on.

In Kemple's guide, he describes this problem as starting on 'Pop On Top' and moving right to the arete and up. I tried it this way. It seemed most natural to move right and use the undercling/sidepull rail feature with the right hand (rather than the arete). A somewhat awkward, high foot and a little pop for the top made t... more >>


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Method Area : Methidone (V8)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: This climb doesn't seem to get a lot of love, but I thought it was quite good. Engaging and tension-y moves on really good rock.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Warmup Area : Valley Jams (V2)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Jul 13, 2014

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Comments: Russ-

To answer your question- yes, it is much easier if you start standing. I'd say v2 from the sit, and v0 if you start standing.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : Spragueasorus Boulder (aka ... : Nowhere Man (V7)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Jul 10, 2014

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Comments: Jamie-

Obviously, my beta is what you see in the video. :)

But, I don't think the move is that long. It's really about how much you can lock off the lower crimp because your weight is on such a good foot for the move to the better crimp.

So yah, I thought it was mostly about crimp strength and flexibility. And less about reach.

Glad to see people are getting on this line.


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Slivers (V8)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Jul 8, 2014

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Comments: A picture of the starting holds would be super helpful for this problem, given that they aren't very obvious starting holds. Or at least that's what I thought when I tried it. Just a suggestion.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Rainforest Boulder (Valley ... : Barndoor (V3)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Jul 6, 2014

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Comments: I started this sitting, matched on the obvious low crimp rail just right of the arete. This seemed like the most logical start to me and how I thought it was supposed to start. Starting like this is probably around v3/4.

Not a bad climb at all. Probably the highest quality line on the boulder.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Barnyard Boulders : The Cooper Problem (V8)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Jun 27, 2014

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Comments: Anybody have any beta for the start to this thing? I could do the dyno move relatively easily, but could not figure out what to do for the start. Or maybe I just didn't want to try as hard as is necessary...


Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : The Falls Walls
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Jun 15, 2014

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Comments: The simplest answer would be no.

That particular area is a complicated mix of National Forest, Wilderness, and private land. So it's best not to camp in that area.

There are paid camping options in Telluride and other regional USFS pay campgrounds, and then random scattered free camping opportunities that are hard to describe here, especially if you're planning on car camping.

The Town Park Campground is right in the town of Telluride and is pretty sweet. It's like $20 a night. It's a short... more >>


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Left Fork : Raiden Area : Raiden (V6)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: Emerson-

You could be right, though I've seen recent videos with people calling it v8. But, it could be another classic case of Joe's Valley grade confusion. I really really hope the new guidebook is more accurate and consistent.


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Right Fork : The Death Scream Area (aka ... : Proppa Dyno (V5)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: With the exception of reaching the starting holds, none of the moves are actually very reachy. I did all of them very statically and found them to be not all that committing with good technique and I'm not that tall (5'9"-ish).

It is definitely a fun line with cool movement. So, give it a shot! You'll probably crush it!


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Right Fork : The Death Scream Area (aka ... : Shindig (V7)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: Emerson--

Not sure that's accurate since the guidebook literally says '...climb straight up, squeezing slopers on the arete to a techy mantle' for 'Electric Fence'.

The 'Shindig Variation' is more like 'Powdered Toast Man'. Though Caldiero's description is pretty vague for that one, and not at all similar to how the majority of people (and me) climb the line. Most people climb it much more like the description on MP for the 'Shindig Variation', which is the far more natural and obvious line.
... more >>


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Right Fork : Oil Pump Area : Spruce (V6)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: Emerson-- I agree with you that the line that is drawn in the guidebook is slightly left of the line of holds that I describe above. However, I could not for the life of me see any line that was to the left and matched Caldiero's description. Certainly nothing that would go at v6. Given the large number of mistakes made in that guidebook, I feel like it's much more likely that this is the intended line. And that's why I've posted it as such.

Given that, it appeared to me that the line drawn in ... more >>


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Right Fork : Oil Pump Area
By: Christian Prellwitz When: May 31, 2014

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Comments: I found the crux on 'Pine' to be the beta. Once I got the beta dialed, it didn't feel too bad, though I could easily see it being v5/6. 'Spruce' is probably at the softer end of v6.

I agree with you on the quality of both lines!


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Left Fork : Raiden Area : Raiden (V6)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: May 23, 2014

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Comments: A lot of people have been calling this v8 (on Sendage for instance), because apparently a hold has broken on it since the guide came out. I haven't gotten on it yet, so I can't contribute an opinion, but I thought it would be worth adding this info to the discussion.

Though from the sounds of it Emerson, you cruised it! Nice work!


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