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Member Since: Mar 26, 2010
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Christian Prellwitz


Point Rank: # 307
Total Points: 1,833
Last Year: 589
Last 30 Days: 109
33 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Christian Prellwitz been climbing?










Christian Prellwitz

 
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All 2066 | Routes 75 | Areas 8 | Photos 112 | Page Improvements | Comments 378 | Posts 21 | Stars 791 | Ratings 681
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Left Fork : Eden : Eden Boulder : Save Yourself (V7)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Nov 18, 2014

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Comments: The description above describes 'Save Yourself Left', which is definitely the natural line for this problem. 'Save Yourself (Direct)' heads straight up from the big pocket at head height via some crimps and/or a pocket. The finish is probably a bit easier than the left variation. The direct is slightly contrived, but it climbs really well and is a worthwhile climb in its own right. All of these climbs start sitting these days.

Personally, I think 'Save Yourself Left' (from the sit) is more lik... more >>


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Left Fork : Eden : Eden Boulder : Anatomy Act (V7)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Nov 18, 2014

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Comments: An under appreciated line. There is a sit (more like a squat) start that goes at around v9 and is nowhere near as good as the stand, in my opinion. It basically starts a couple moves lower and adds a few awkward moves into the stand. There might be an even lower start, but I'm not sure what the starting holds are.


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Left Fork : Eden : Eden Boulder : Eden (V10)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Nov 18, 2014

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Comments: Not sure why this got downgraded to v9 in Isaac's guide when almost every logged ascent has confirmed it at v10. Personally, I feel like this is one of the standards for v10 at Joe's. If some people (perhaps taller people) feel like it's low end v10, I can understand that but it feels like spot on v10 to me.

In fact, every climb on this wall is solid/hard at the grade. Probably the most accurately graded boulder at Joe's! :)


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Conditions Boulder : Static Face (V2-3)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Nov 16, 2014

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Comments: Tim--

I moved the photo over here and deleted this climb from the Swirley Boulder. (That will take a few days.) Personally, I think this is more like v2/3.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Devil's Den Bouldering : A Moment Of Light (V7-8)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Nov 14, 2014

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Comments: Brett--

Thanks so much for the cleaning effort on that climb. Lots of credit for that!

Yah, I think that crimp/pinch will stick around because it's hard to get behind it. However, if it breaks, it will still be climbable, just different. It might be worth considering reinforcing some of the holds, in order to preserve the quality of the line. I'm happy to do the work, though I won't be able to do that until the next time I'm in NH, and I never know when that is going to be.

There are certain... more >>


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Method Area : Bicep Method (V8)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: Great description Julian. Your last sentence is a perfect summation of this climb.

Bizarre, but fun. And kinda cool when it comes together.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Devil's Den Bouldering : A Moment Of Light (V7-8)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Nov 1, 2014

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Comments: Thanks Ian and Alec!

It might be harder than v7/8 (the people I was climbing with thought so), but I thought I would be conservative with my initial estimate. After figuring out the right beta for the crux, I sent it second try, but this is also the style of climbing that I am best at. So, it's hard to say. Could be more like v8/9. Hopefully some other people will send it and contribute some opinions. I'm happy to upgrade it if people end up feeling it's deserving of that.

As a point of refere... more >>


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Split Boulder : Stegasaurus (V9)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Nov 1, 2014

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Comments: Yes, this climb is enormously contrived. You have to ignore the good holds above the start and intentionally move right into a much more difficult sequence that essentially finishes the same as the easier, non-contrived variation. Extremely cool rock, very cool moves, but unfortunately very contrived. None of the guidebooks or the description here mention the contrived nature of the climb, so I can imagine that it's confusing to climbers that are newer to the area.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Devil's Den Bouldering : A Moment Of Light (V7-8)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Nov 1, 2014

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Comments: This had been an obvious project for a while. I was always attracted to the beauty of the line, but there was a fair amount of loose rock on the wall. A number of people put effort into cleaning it up over the last year or so and they did an excellent job. Last weekend, upon seeing the current state of the climb, my interest was re-piqued and I decided to put some effort into cleaning and climbing the line. A couple sessions later I was standing on top. My understanding is that this line was sti... more >>


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Swirley Boulder : The Rose (V7)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Oct 30, 2014

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Comments: I thought I would add, purely for historical purposes, that I believe the full name for this problem is 'The Rose (of Confrontation)'.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : The Font Boulder : The Font Problem (V9)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Oct 30, 2014

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Comments: I haven't heard anything like that. I think that conditions make a big difference on this climb in terms of how hard it feels. You want it cold and dry. A crisp December day would be perfect.

It felt quite hard the one time I tried it. But, that was most certainly not in December. :)


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Conditions Boulder : Automated (V7-8)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Oct 30, 2014

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Comments: I started as per Bryce's description in the comments above and that seemed around v7 to me. Starting this way made the problem sort of fun. Starting with the undercling and right hand crimp is very hard, awkward and not fun at all.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Method Area : Papilloma (V6)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Oct 30, 2014

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Comments: The landing was actually dry on this today. I scrubbed it up a bit and tried the moves a little. Seemed pretty hard for the grade. Anyhow, get on this while you can!


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Method Area : Crystal Method (V8)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Oct 30, 2014

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Comments: This climb is very good. I just wish it wasn't so sharp. But, that's Blair!


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Hillside (aka Summit Boulde... : Ghetto Knowledge (V8)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Oct 26, 2014

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Comments: Bryce, what's with the one star???

This climb gets almost no attention, but I think it's amazingly good and deserving of standing next to 'Italian Stallion'. Technical and powerful. Max extension deadpoints off of small holds. Highball. Full value in every possible way.

There are a couple of different ways to start this problem. You can start matched on the diagonal crimp at 7-8 feet. Or start with left hand on the diagonal crimp and the right hand using a mono on the face to the right. I've ... more >>


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : High Tech Issues (V8)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Oct 26, 2014

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Comments: A proud and amazing line that is much better than its weird and somewhat contrived neighbor (Maxim). I have to agree with Brian that this is likely in the low end v9ish range. Could be hard v8. Hard to say. Whatever the grade, four stars all the way.

In the interest of accuracy, it probably makes sense to update the description and grade since the climb has changed slightly from the description above and the grade is certainly harder than what it once was.

Happy to have ticked off this gem.


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Left Fork : Mine cart area : Streaked (V6+)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: Alvin-- Since no one else has responded, my understanding is that yes, it starts as you described. In my opinion, starting this way keeps it accurate at the grade. Starting on the lowest crimp rail is, as you stated, a lot harder than v6. There's often chalk on all of the holds because people try starting in a couple different places until they settle on the same holds that you did. But, the exact starting holds have never been described anywhere, including in the 'Black Bible', where the proble... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Schist Show Boulders (below...
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: I agree that changing the name would be a good thing. Schist Show is the kind of the name that you regret giving to an area ten years later. Trust me, I've made those mistakes.

I've always been a fan of simpler names for areas, for instance something like the Parking Lot Boulders, etc. or something else related to this specific area. If the nautical theme sticks somewhat, then you could always call them something like The Harbor, etc. to play off that theme.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Schist Show Boulders (below... : Photo
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: Looks good Mark.

My only suggestion would be to change the decimal point to being after the number rather than before. (For example 1. instead of .1) Mostly because when I see the decimal point before the number it makes me think it's a YDS grade.

Happy that you're putting some effort into documenting these boulders. They look fun.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Marsh Boulders
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Oct 14, 2014

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Comments: Ian is correct that you are climbing on the 'Bodacious' boulder and not on 'The Impaler' boulder. However, 'Bench Warmer' actually starts a bit to the right of this problem on some low edges (if I remember correctly) and then it heads straight up to join the lip and finish the same way that 'Bodacious' does.

As to whether this is a new problem or not, it's really hard to say. It's safe to say that most of the obvious lines and variations have been climbed at some point. It's very unlikely that ... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : Entrance Boulders : Bobby's Arete (V6-7)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Oct 10, 2014

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Comments: There was some discussion of this line a while ago but then it seems that everyone kind of forgot about it. While warming up yesterday, I took a look at it and decided to to give it a go. I found it to be a quality and enjoyable line. The only detraction is the sharpness of some of the holds, but that is pretty typical of less traveled Rumney climbs.

Most of the line is pretty clean though the top out holds would benefit from a little bit of a scrub.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Devil's Den Bouldering
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Sep 9, 2014

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Comments: Most of the boulders in this area don't necessarily have individual names so that makes it a little tricky. Perhaps with Kemple's guidebook out of print, someone will finally put together a guidebook that New England deserves with accurate information, names and grades and with plenty more problems listed. Maybe I'll have to step up! Though I've already got two guidebooks to finish before I can start another one...


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Swamp Boulders : Poseidon (V3-4)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: Sweet, thanks Ian. I knew it had been done before, but didn't know the name as I have an older version of that guidebook. I figured someone would chime in with a name/some info. I'll update the info.


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : New Joe's : Area 51 : Resident Evil (V10)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Sep 4, 2014

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Comments: My understanding is that original finish was to go straight up to the large pocket/slot feature that is to the left of the finishing holds of 'Stand Up' (basically to the left of the 'starfish' hold) and to not use any of the holds on 'Stand Up'. Starting the original way and finishing the original way was given v11 in the black Utah bouldering guide.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Aug 28, 2014

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Comments:

A new installment of The Pawtuckaway Project. Footage from the Summer of 2014. Enjoy!


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