Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Mar 26, 2010
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Christian Prellwitz


Point Rank: # 371
Total Points: 1,520
Last Year: 788
Last 30 Days: 54
32 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Christian Prellwitz been climbing?










Christian Prellwitz

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 1843 | Routes 63 | Areas 8 | Photos 87 | Page Improvments | Comments 338 | Posts 13 | Stars 712 | Ratings 622
Page 1 of 14.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Block : The Block Problem (V9)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: 1 hour ago

view comment >>
Comments: To clarify further, when I did it, I started with my left hand on the block crimp/edge and my right on the sloper right next to it. Pulled off the ground and went to the higher crimp with my right hand and then moved my left hand into the incut/pocket thing and made a large deadpoint to the crimp rail with my right hand. The beta from there is kind of personal preference, though still powerful. It felt like v8/soft v9 this way. I found the deadpoint to be a very low percentage crux move.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Block : Knock Your Block Off (V6)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: 1 hour ago

view comment >>
Comments: Matt--

It would be helpful if an admin allowed you to rewrite the description or if you posted a new description in the comments, to clarify the starting holds and the line, given that the beta described above is apparently not accurate anymore. Just a thought.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : Entrance Boulders : cavers direct (V10)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: 2 hours ago

view comment >>
Comments: Well Ian, I took your advice and checked out this climb again today. Success! I actually did it twice in a row because the move was so much fun.

I used the starting holds shown in the video. I agree that the Kemple guidebook makes it seem like the starting holds are something different. And very inobvious. So, I'm not sure what to say gradewise, given all that uncertainty. It definitely is a very fun climb. The double clutch move with a huge swing is probably the single most fun move at the Bl... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : Entrance Boulders : Entrance Arete (V1+)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: 2 hours ago

view comment >>
Comments: This is a cool climb, with engaging movement. The large horizontal flake about halfway up is super hollow and is flexing quite a bit. It will likely break at some point in the near future, so tread lightly!


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : Entrance Boulders : Razor Blade Romance (V3-)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: 2 hours ago

view comment >>
Comments: I nearly killed myself on this today when the left hand crimp broke and sent me flying towards the pointy rock below, which I did not have padded. Luckily, I just missed it with my head.

Anyhow, there is a small sidepull left, below where the crimp was. I climbed it on my next try and it felt similar in difficulty. I was able to go left hand to the sidepull and then use a subtle right heel hook to go all the way to the lip with my right hand.

Fun problem!


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : Entrance Boulders : Doppelganger (V2+)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: 2 hours ago

view comment >>
Comments: Like an easier version of Caver's Problem. Gym climbers will like this problem.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Zig Zag Boulder : Metallic (V7)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: 2 hours ago

view comment >>
Comments: Agreed, on both points.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Ricochet Boulder : Cilley Old Man (V6)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: 4 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: Matt-

I tried 'Cilley Groove' a couple of different ways and every way was hard. Certainly nothing that felt like v4.

This line felt like the more logical and obvious way to do it.

Give it a go next time you're out there and see what you think. Maybe Eddy will tell us what the difference is supposed to be.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Crack Boulder Area : Crack of Pain (V3)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: 6 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: I didn't use any tape and I didn't lose any blood. But, I can't say that I recommend this climb. Very painful, with uninteresting movement over an awkward landing. The first few moves are definitely the crux, with bad locks and small feet. It lets up slightly after that, though I wouldn't say there are any 'easy' moves until you're standing on top. I'm glad I never have to do this again. :)


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Block : The Block Problem (V9)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Jul 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I'm not sure how it was originally done, but most people definitely use it.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : Entrance Boulders : cavers direct (V10)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Jul 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Ian--

I don't have an answer for you, but I do agree with you. Everybody starts this problem differently and it makes a big difference in the grade. But, the lack of obvious starting holds is one of the reasons why this climb is only so so and why I've never had much interest in it. How did you do it?


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : Spragueasorus Boulder (aka ... : Nowhere Man (V7)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Jul 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Ian-

No problem. I enjoy putting the videos together.

Let me assure you, there are plenty of climbs that I struggle on. But, thank you for the compliment.

Maybe someone will put together a video of the problems I can't do so I can steal their beta! Please!! :)


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Ricochet Boulder : Cilley Old Man (V6)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Jul 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: What's the difference between this climb and 'Cilley Groove'? Perhaps someone with more knowledge, like Mark, can shed some light, but I'm pretty sure that this problem, as described, IS 'Cilley Groove'.

This is the easiest and most obvious way to climb the dihedral/groove feature, which is what 'Cilley Groove' is supposed to do. If they're different, what's the beta for 'Cilley Groove' then?

Thoughts?


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Zig Zag Boulder : Good Morning Midnight (V3+)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Jul 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Matt-

You should take a photo of the starting holds because I didn't find them to be all that obvious. I was fortunate because there was chalk on them. Shorter folks will likely have to use a couple of pads to reach the starting holds from a sit.

A fun little line. Looks like you could do something to the right of this as well (and left of Metallic).


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : Inverted Boulder : Press Release (V4+)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Jul 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This is actually a pretty cool climb. I thought the crux was the move to the top. It is very reachy no matter how you do it. I climbed through the bottom section fairly easily only to get shut down on the move to the top several times. It took me a while to figure out something that would work. A bit sharp, but it climbs well.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : Inverted Boulder : Inverted Siberian Husky (V5)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Jul 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Sustained indeed. Excellent movement, though a bit contrived.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Yosemite Boulder Area : Death of the Blues (V4+)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Jul 19, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This does probably deserve a second chance. I thought it was a decent climb. But, it felt more like v3 to me from the sit and the first move to the large flat jug is probably the crux. The rest of the climb is pretty straight forward and doesn't require anywhere near as many moves as described above.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Hillside (aka Summit Boulde... : John's Problem (V4)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Jul 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This might be a little hard for the grade. It's hard for me to say since it's to my strengths as a climber, but it definitely requires a cool mix of power and technique.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Hillside (aka Summit Boulde... : Ethnic Cleansing (V6-7)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Jul 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This ended up climbing so much differently than I expected it to. My beta was similar to Bryce's. (So thanks for the beta!)

It also ended up being nowhere near as cool as I thought it would be. If only this climbed as good as it looked. Bizarre and difficult to grade.

I also thought the finishing moves (after establishing on the slab) would be more casual than they ended up being. I climbed this today and the slab was still damp from the heavy rain over the past few days. That made the tenuou... more >>


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Hillside (aka Summit Boulde... : Flower Child (V5)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Jul 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The toe hook makes this problem quite enjoyable and likely easier than your original method, Bryce. It should be noted that if you're on the short side, the toe hook beta might not even be possible.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Warmup Area : Red Fish (V4)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Jul 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I'm going to be honest, this description is pretty confusing. I decided to give this some goes yesterday while I was warming up to see if I could figure out what's going on.

In Kemple's guide, he describes this problem as starting on 'Pop On Top' and moving right to the arete and up. I tried it this way. It seemed most natural to move right and use the undercling/sidepull rail feature with the right hand (rather than the arete). A somewhat awkward, high foot and a little pop for the top made t... more >>


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Method Area : Methidone (V8)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Jul 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This climb doesn't seem to get a lot of love, but I thought it was quite good. Engaging and tension-y moves on really good rock.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Warmup Area : Valley Jams (V2)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Jul 13, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Russ-

To answer your question- yes, it is much easier if you start standing. I'd say v2 from the sit, and v0 if you start standing.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : Spragueasorus Boulder (aka ... : Nowhere Man (V7)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Jul 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Jamie-

Obviously, my beta is what you see in the video. :)

But, I don't think the move is that long. It's really about how much you can lock off the lower crimp because your weight is on such a good foot for the move to the better crimp.

So yah, I thought it was mostly about crimp strength and flexibility. And less about reach.

Glad to see people are getting on this line.


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Slivers (V8)
By: Christian Prellwitz When: Jul 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A picture of the starting holds would be super helpful for this problem, given that they aren't very obvious starting holds. Or at least that's what I thought when I tried it. Just a suggestion.


Page 1 of 14.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>