Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Dry Wall : Sleight of Hand (5.12a)
By: CHRIS.T When: Mar 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beware of the flake at the top. The climbing above the first anchor looks dirty and uninteresting. The climbing to the first anchor is sustained and INCREDIBLE!!! Classic.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : Choose Life (5.14-)
By: CHRIS.T When: Mar 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The hanger on the crux bolt spins a little...may have loosened a little from the repeated massive whippers off the crux? May need to be tightened a bit?
Amazing route!!!!!
|
Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Chamber : Green Lantern (5.11d)
By: CHRIS.T When: Mar 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some questionable fractured blocks exist at the end of the route, to the far right of the last bolt. Choose your holds wisely. Otherwise, a fun and mostly solid route.
|
Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Chamber : Big Mac (5.12c)
By: CHRIS.T When: Feb 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some poor rock high on the route but otherwise great if you stay in the bolt line. Long and sustained with a few crucial rests near the end. The crux felt like moving from 5th to 6th bolt, but hang on for the next several bolts. A tough move at the very end could deny the send. A near classic for the area.
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Violet Blue (5.11c)
By: CHRIS.T When: Sep 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: With a 70 meter rope, from the top of pitch 2, I could JUST BARELY rappel down to the area near the start of the climb. Tie knots in the ends of your rope. This really is a great climb. The rock, and steep nature of the climb, seemed unique for the 'Mary's Bust' area.
|
Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Strike It Rich (5.12a)
By: CHRIS.T When: Aug 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb! The route is in good shape these days. Good rock and great movement on both pitches.
|
Location: CO : Empire : The Halidome : Tremendous Trifles (5.12c)
By: CHRIS.T When: Aug 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very enjoyable moderate climbing on good stone for the first half, into an amazing crux headwall with awesome movement and beautiful stone.
These routes are worth a visit.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Disneyland (5.11d)
By: CHRIS.T When: Aug 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 1 has 13 bolts to anchor.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Midnight Rock : Midnight Express (5.10d)
By: CHRIS.T When: Aug 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 8/5/12, there is a wasp nest just below the anchor. They were pissed and stung my partner.
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Crosswinds : The Bends (a.k.a. Decompres... (5.12d)
By: CHRIS.T When: Jul 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A classic Crags route for sure. The overhanging finish offers very fun movement on great stone. Breaking it up into 2 pitches seemed appropriate.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Willard (5.11c)
By: CHRIS.T When: Jul 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 1st bolt is total sketch. Finish is really weird, and reeks of rat shit.
|
Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Waimea (5.12c)
By: CHRIS.T When: Jul 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 1 is fantastic the entire way! The crux has a few technical thin moves on steep rock with some cool stemming, and the finish is pumpy and powerful. Long and beautiful. Super classic!
Don't miss it.
|
Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Moving Zen (5.12c)
By: CHRIS.T When: Jul 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A proud pitch, requiring some very unique body movement and geometry. Bring a full bag of tricks for this one, and don't forget some power! This is a hard onsight, especially when it is void of any chalk. Flow (or 'Zen') can be found only after dialing in the correct sequences. The rock is perfect until it joins the top of 'Training Day'. The finish detracts a bit from the overall quality, but the route still deserves 4 stars for the climbing up to that point. Get on it! Long slings for bolts 1,... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Film Noir (5.12c/d)
By: CHRIS.T When: May 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: An instant classic! The rock is perfect and the moves are fantastic. A great redpoint crux up high, and little chance for a rest after the slab, makes for a challenging and continuous journey. The route gets better with each passing bolt. A few long runners will help with rope drag. Height dependent crux.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Split Personality (5.12)
By: CHRIS.T When: Apr 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome route! Big thanks to Paul! He did all the hard work on this one.
A 70 meter rope allows you to belay from (and lower to) the comfortable ledge with the large dead tree. TIE A KNOT IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE.
|
Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Jackpot (5.11d)
By: CHRIS.T When: Apr 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route with either variation. Going straight up the bolt line is probably 5.12-, with great moves to gain the awesome pocket.
|
Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Dog Run (5.12b)
By: CHRIS.T When: Dec 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Feels easier than 'Big Dog'. Worth climbing.
The Mabe guidebook states that this route starts and finishes with 'Big Dog'; however, it seems to start as a completely independent line to the right, and end at the 'Big Dog' anchor.
Long runner on the first bolt.
|
Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Big Man On Campus (5.12a)
By: CHRIS.T When: Oct 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route provides a nice escape from the crowds on a busy day at Highlander crag. The first 60 feet is O.K., mellow climbing, to gain the ledge/overlap. Then a reachy clip leads to the cruxy final 40 feet of great climbing to the anchor.
A bit of loose rock still exists, but it can be easily avoided.
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Lower Great Face : ... : Photo
By: CHRIS.T When: Oct 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is NOT 'Tribal Regions'. It is the last pitch of 'The Big Steep'.
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Lower Great Face : Tribal Regions (5.10)
By: CHRIS.T When: Oct 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Three stars for pitch 1! One star for pitch 2. Pitch 2 is somewhat loose and crumbly, with the occasional rat's nest along the way. There is no reliable fixed anchor for pitch 1, bring midsize gear for the belay. The belay atop pitch 2 is very nice!
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Waking Sleep (5.9+ R)
By: CHRIS.T When: Feb 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is the '5.10' variation listed in the route description for 'Shadow'.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Park Avenue : Photo
By: CHRIS.T When: Dec 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This photo is so surreal! From another planet or something. Beautiful
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Saber : Southwest Corner (5.10a) : Photo
By: CHRIS.T When: Jul 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: the red line on pitch three is wrong going into the left facing corner. take a thin crack(not visible until your basically in it)almost directly below the corner
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Saber : Southwest Corner (5.10a)
By: CHRIS.T When: Jul 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Belay beta for the top of Pitch 3:
From my experience, when finishing the wide crack section at the end of pitch 3, it is better to set up the belay left on a small shelf(instead of the top of the pillar to the right). This will make the transition around the corner for the next pitch much easier (less rope drag) (no downclimbing) (an extra 15 feet of rope to stretch out the next pitch).
This route is extremely good. The ridge to the summit sucks (loose!), but is worth the trip at least once.
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Saber : Southwest Corner (5.10a) : Photo
By: CHRIS.T When: Jul 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I took the corner just left of the prow to the top, right of the red line (per Gillett description). Stellar! Great pro.
|
RSS Feed
