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Location: Tony B : Partners, past and present. : Photo
By: chrisp When: Nov 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: this is vedauwoo- and actually the first time I ever really led a route- also toproped one of vedauwoo's finest hand cracks Climb and Punishment- which took me years to finally sack up and lead.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Technicolor Wall : Unnamed (5.9)
By: chrisp When: Oct 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: this route is a little chossy- have to wonder if some of those blocks will get kicked off at the top. There is about 10ft of good climbing when you get to the clean # 2 camelot crack
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Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Atlantis Dome : Missing The Dike (5.9)
By: chrisp When: Oct 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is great- bring screamers and an attentive belayer-the bolts look a little ratty, the climbing is exciting for a 5.9 leader-.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Pagoda Mountain : North Buttress (5.7)
By: chrisp When: Jul 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Martin here the description above isn't so great. Jfox's pictures pretty much should be the beta for this line. My partner and I did it in 4 roped pitches (70mrope) - we started above the obvious dark band up the descent gully-I managed to get off route (see other picture) and got to the crappy roof.
We unroped once we passed the obvious headwall- lots of large loose blocks above- and scrambled to the summit.
The downclimb off the backside is great- pretty much a trail the entire... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches : The Three Penguins : Right Chimney (5.10+)
By: chrisp When: Mar 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: the top pitch needs a old number 4 cam and a new #5 cam. a hand sized cam or two down low were nice right off the belay. I just bumped the 5 came up a bit to get me through. save a #1 camelot for the top out- that was a wee bit sandy and scary.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Wart : The Good, the Bad, and the ... (5.10)
By: chrisp When: Feb 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The gear description is totally accurate on this route. I did it with only a new #5 camelot and burried it back in the "ugly" part.
the Ugly part was awesome. I thought turning the corner was the technical crux on this, but protectable.
This is a totally fun route that I would recommend to anyone in the area that wants to get a good pump on some interesting climbing!
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Location: Mike Mu. : hulk : Photo
By: chrisp When: Feb 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: "I 'll skull fuck you."
remember that quote?
This was one of the most impresionable movie scenes around.
I think most of my partners feel that I am this way! Lifes too short to be this scary!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Corral Wall : ... : Photo
By: chrisp When: Jan 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I taped up for this slab route!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock-East ... : Championship Wrestling (5.10a)
By: chrisp When: Jan 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would have to agree this thing was a little softly rated. If Mainstreet in Vedauwoo is 10a then this would have to go into the 8+ range due to its short nature and lack of tricky OW moves. I would hate to sandbag anyone though, expect a 10a type workout on this thing regardless of the rating. My number 6 friend was my last piece of gear half way up the route- probably would need big bros on the upper half of the route, but you really arent falling out of it then!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Wolf's Tooth (5.8)
By: chrisp When: Sep 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an awesome route. I love a chimney with a view. You only need up to a #4 Camalot and even that felt semi-unnecesary since there was ample protection in the incipient cracks on the left side of the chimney.
Definitely pretty physical, but thats what makes OWs OWs. This climb had lots of opportunities for rests.
There is a great belay seat at to belay from just below the summit of the pilar.
I dodged right of this belay and climbed a short finger crack- kind of curious if this ... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Country (5.10b)
By: chrisp When: Jun 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was a tough love crack for me. I have big hands and found it difficult and challenging. The route demands to spit you out and make you work for the jams. I agree with the previous post and this is a great route if you want to work the #1 camelot size, just dont expect it to be easy if you have big paws
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Evening Ecstacy (5.9+)
By: chrisp When: Apr 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found this route to be a little delicate and not your standard IC crack climb. This was an entertaining route that I suffered on due to the small jams. I made it to the anchors on this with my mantra-" I am not going to hang on a 5.9" Fun route!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Unknown Flake, 5.10 (5.10 PG13)
By: chrisp When: Apr 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is "smell the meat" posted previously by Jay Brown
I led this thing. Kind of spooky since while laying this crack back/ weird heel hooks it is pretty apparent how detached this flake is. I used hands sized gear at the bottom and the wide gear is everything up to an old 5 camelot. The top section requires some hands sized gear as well.
I highly recommend long slings for the cams. I pushed the cams pretty far back in the crack and since the crack angles long slings will alleviate ... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Low Cholesterol (5.10)
By: chrisp When: Oct 26, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a beautiful wide crack. Thanks to whoever put the anchors in. My partner and I saw this thing last winter and wanted to put it up. This past weekend we were happily disappointed that someone put some anchors in.
I agree with the gear 4.5 down low, ever widening. I led this with 1 4.5, 1- 5 Camalot, 1- #6 Friend. I basically walked the pieces up in that succession.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair III, II and I : Le Petit Arbre (5.8+)
By: chrisp When: Jul 30, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pitch was super easy and fun. I would definately agree that this is one of the nicest moderate cracks in the area.
The second pitch is no way comprable to lower progressive which is rated 9+, this route is 8+. I would think the second pitch goes at an easy 8+ and a great route for someone aspiring to be doing a harder 5.8. This thing was a classic vedauwoo pitch of a moderately no feet start in a beautiful hand crack. One can get a good spot from a belayer before getting establish... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Solar Collector
By: chrisp When: Mar 20, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Have you ever been to this rock. I have hunted for this thing in the past and have not found it. When I spoke to a guidebook author of the area they asked "if I had a GPS unit?"
Maybe I am a retard, but I couldn't see this hunk of rock back there and I was with someone who is pretty competent finding things, not to mention we were looking pretty hard and hiked all over hill and dale back there.
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