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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : The Bowels of the Owls (5.0)
By: Chris Zeller When: Aug 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Bowels decent is straightforward but avoid the chimney cave. There is a great rap station (2 slings + 2 biners) hiding under a large block descender's right and just before the cave on the Bowels of the Owls decent. Basically instead of stepping left around a ledge to get to the cave, go straight to where it cliffs out and look under the large flat block.
This rap is clean and does not require going in the chimney as reported above. There is an anchent bolt stub on this block so apparently ... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls
By: Chris Zeller When: Aug 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Bowels decent is straightforward but avoid the chimney cave. There is a great rap station (2 slings + 2 biners) hiding under a large block descender's right and just before the cave on the Bowels of the Owls decent. Basically instead of stepping left around a ledge to get to the cave, go straight to where it cliffs out and look under the large flat block.
This rap is clean and does not require going in the chimney as I have heard reported elsewhere. There is an anchent bolt stub on this blo... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Pin Route (5.5)
By: Chris Zeller When: Aug 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Led this climb today. This is an excellent route--one of the best routes at this grade. The climbing is no harder than 5.4 as in the guide. Protection is good all around. Bring large cams to protect the offwidth crack on the second pitch. It protects well.
There is only one pin at the first belay not two. This confused us a bit given the description but the crack is obvious. There is an old scar so maybe the second pin fell out.
There is a great rap station (2 slings + 2 biners) hiding under ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Left Arete (5.8 R)
By: Chris Zeller When: May 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun route and a good alternative to the easier routes on the face.
It's a bit of a "one-move-wonder" though. The only move that I felt was 5.8 was moving around the large block/flake that puts you out on the arete. Then it's 5.6 to the top. There was good pro under the flake but its definitely exposed and spooky.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : West Arete (5.8)
By: Chris Zeller When: May 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun classic route. Steep climbing on jugs. Easy access and 3 pitches to the summit. What else can you ask for?
The cruxes have adequate pro and clear fall lines. Some of the moves are spooky and exposed but not to warrant an S IMHO.
The crux for me was about 30 feet after the start as you pull onto the arrette. My advice--just let go of the bomber undercling and trust the smaller holds above. Its over in a minute then its fun heucos to a fun chimmney.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Clementine (5.5)
By: Chris Zeller When: May 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a classic at this grade. Very steep for a 5.5 but the holds are all there keeping a legit 5.5. That's what makes a route fun IMHO, a steep climb with exposure that really makes you feel like you're climbing even if its only 5.5.
I agree with the previous poster. The traverse right at the base leaves a big gap in the pro on some of the hardest moves low down. So be confident and move quickly before you can get a piece in just before you turn the corner.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Ytrid Deed (5.6)
By: Chris Zeller When: Nov 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route 11/27/08. Really fun climb and classic. I didn't think there was any loose rock to speak of. We did it as in Rossiter's book and it was great. The first pitch was 5.7, 2nd felt like 5.6 and the third was 5.5. Decent through East Slabs.
Since it's not described here, I'll describe the first pitch.
From the Dirty Deed alcove, climb the short 45 degree ramp left to gain the arete. Then climb just right of the arete to the Red Ledge belaying at one of several trees on this ledge. ... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : New Era (5.7)
By: Chris Zeller When: Nov 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic route, not to be missed. In fact, the whole scene on the East face of this rock is better than most in the Garden. For one thing, the area is largely free of tourists and the scale of the rock leads to more adventure.
See my comments about the decent on the South Ridge route. Basically we headed off North instead of south and circled around the spire to gain the second gully instead of making the traverse directly.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : South Ridge (descent route) (5.0)
By: Chris Zeller When: Nov 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We used this downclimb for New Era. It was worth it as it's always better to top out than to rap a great route like New Era halfway up, but the routefinding is a bit challenging.
We looked at the traverse to the second gully stated here but decided against it. It would have been fine roped but looked like a sketchy scramble.
INSTEAD, we headed off North along the spine and downclimbed west to a grassy ramp. Then climbed back up over the spire on the west side to gain the second gully. This d... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Three Graces : The Window (5.2)
By: Chris Zeller When: Nov 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun and classic route. As good as it gets at 5.2. I didn't think the rock was any softer or loose than any other Garden climb. I also think it protects quite well. I'm not sure how you are "supposed to" climb this but after gaining the first hump I broke left though the arch/hole rather than traversing around. I found this to be easier but it did generate some rope drag. Maybe this is where others found all the loose rock?
Before you move across the chasim to the summit there is excellent... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Your Basic Lieback (5.6)
By: Chris Zeller When: May 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb but this should be done instead as a two-3 pitch climb from the ground up. Start on the ground below the route and scramble up 4th class terraign then climb a crack to gain the ledge 5.5 at most. Then climb the YBL crack. Finish with Dihedral.
If you do walk around on the ledge be very careful of rockfall. Everything here is loose and other routes are below you. On Tracer someone with a dog (don't bring dogs up here!) kicked off a bunch of loose rock that nearly clocked us. Dogs do... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Tracer (5.8)
By: Chris Zeller When: May 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route falls somewhere between a highball boulder problem and a climb. The crux is down low but the pro is bad here. Above the horizontal crack it gets easier and the fall potential is less. Then its over.
The climbing is fun but overall its too short to be a climb.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Star Track (5.8)
By: Chris Zeller When: May 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route deserves the bomb. The loose flake and bushwacking under the tree brances tip you off that this climb isn't worth it. Step 10-20 feet right and do Star Wars instead.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Dihedral (5.7)
By: Chris Zeller When: May 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This really should be considered the second pitch of Basic Lieback. Done from the ground this route is a 3-pitch classic.
I think its something in between 7 and 9-. My partner placed a cam under the flake and I felt very postive until I had to retrieve it....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Whittle Wall, The (5.7 R)
By: Chris Zeller When: Apr 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The S on this route is deserved. The holds are all there but its steep and exposed and there isn't much pro on the second pitch.
We belayed at some rap rings under the roof at the end of the traverse just before you cut right. This is a good place to belay as it minimizes rope drag and provides a bomber anchor. The initial traverse has good pro fortunately as this airy traverse is just as dangerous for the follower as the leader.
Overall its a fun climb for the grade. Bomber buckets allow st... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : The G.Y. Dihedral (5.8)
By: Chris Zeller When: Apr 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed with the lichen part. We climbed this yesterday and my partner decided to back off on the lichen encrusted corner and lead right through the notch (Tigger?).
On toprope I found this to be a reasonable 5.8. But in the crux (stemming ontop of the flake) I found it to be a bit slabby and licheny. Additionally, while you can get solid gear in under the flake, there is no gear above the critical move so its pretty unprotected.
At the top of the dihedral there is a bush to surmount adding t... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Lemmings (5.8)
By: Chris Zeller When: Apr 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was a fantastic fun route! The two overhangs were a blast and correctly rated at 5.8.
I agree with Mark, the best way to start this climb is from the bottom just to the right of Recon. Find a crack that goes up halfway and peters out just after a large fir tree. Hike up from the streamside trail and climb directly up. This way the whole route is a direct line. The pro is a little runout on P1 after the crack ends, but P1 isn't more than 5.6.
On P2 climb the overhang just right... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : River Of Darkness (5.8)
By: Chris Zeller When: Apr 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Be ready to climb the offwidth. I wasn't able to find faceholds to climb this and found it much harder. It's a different category of climb.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Duh Dihedral (5.6)
By: Chris Zeller When: Apr 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great fun climb and the most worthwhile route in the area. Do it even if 5.6 sounds wimpy to you. It's a sustained 5.6, so it seemed harder than other Eldo 5.6s to me. It felt about the same as Dr. Michael Solar to me. It's easy to protect though. So, I think it's a good beginner lead if you are CONFIDENT on 5.6.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Tampon (5.7 R)
By: Chris Zeller When: Apr 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The pro on this one is very poor. Easier to TR from Duh Dihedral. I think this is a sandbag at 5.7 maybe 5.8 with one 5.9 move before you merge with Duh Dihedral.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Lunar Avenue (5.8 R)
By: Chris Zeller When: Apr 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route, felt about the same difficulty as Dr. Michael Solar to me. One hard move in the middle. Just bear right around the bulge and the holds are all there. Again, too short for a lead.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Dr. Michael Solar (5.7)
By: Chris Zeller When: Apr 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the 5.7 rating is appropriate. A fun steep climb with lots of jugs. Walk off is easy. A good beginner place. It's too short though.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Lost in Space (5.7 R)
By: Chris Zeller When: Mar 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just did this one 3/25/08 and I agree with Ron's description of the climb. This is a fun climb, worth more than a star, maybe 2-3 IMHO.
There is some loose rock on the first pitch. My partner (a careful climber) knocked one down towards me by accident. But this is to be expected when climbing in the mountains. Redgarden Wall isn't supposed to be a roadside, bouldering park.
The V-dihedral has some grass in it and it's definitely an 8 there.
The walk off left is easy. No reason to rap thi... more >>
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff
By: Chris Zeller When: Sep 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 9/21/07, the road to Cactus Cliff is closed. Don't follow the directions in the guidebook. The access is much easier now from "The Bank" campground. From the campground walk to the parking area then 50 yards or so down the right fork of the road. Turn right onto a nice trail that leads onto the old Cactus Cliff road and then up to the cliff. About 1 mile. The whole trail is extremely well made and marked. There are signs everywhere to the crags. Great job and a definite improvement from w... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Mohling Arete (5.5 R)
By: Chris Zeller When: Aug 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with the posters above: This is a beautiful climb on excellent rock interrupted only by some strange routefinding and unusual moves to get past the gaps. We climbed this more traditionally, downclimbing a few feet then stemming across the void to cross the gaps. Didn't quite do it in running shoes but we did walk some of the class 4-5.easy sections.
The key beta for this climb is the cedar tree. At the second gap it looks impassible. Head left into a cleft to a cedar tree. After an awk... more >>
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