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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Green Spur (5.9)
By: Chris White When: Oct 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Craig,
Glad You came out alive after all that and great to see you bouldering with your wife the other day in Eldo.
Edit: Dude!!! Thanks for sharing that with us. See you out there!
Chris.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Xanadu (5.10a)
By: Chris White When: Sep 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Be sure footed up on top of Xanadu. There's so much loose rock up there if you continue on to WhipLash. I like to wear a helmet in this area.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Pool of Blood (5.9)
By: Chris White When: Sep 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: BLOODY FIST JAMS.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Zip Code (5.11-)
By: Chris White When: Sep 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another height dependent crux. If you are around 5' 9", you gotta get footsie footsie or go for the dynamic throw. Feels very good to stick this move. Then you are rewarded with some steep easy climbing. Oh yeah, getting to the crux, the rock is not all so great. Luckly, there's not that much ugly rock. Good route. Like there's a bad route in Eldo?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Forbidden Planet (5.11b)
By: Chris White When: Sep 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux is height dependent....5' 9" tall makes the route hard for its grade...(5.11b). That's my height with an even ape index. Increase the grade as the climber gets shorter. Very good route with some interesting moves at the beginning with some just plain fun climbing on the upper 2/3's of the route. I am still trying to get the redpoint...hahaha...next time up there I have it in the bag.
EDIT: Some of the hangers are spinning. And still haven't gotten the redpoint. Still think it's a goo... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : South Face (5.8 R)
By: Chris White When: Aug 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I went straight up instead of right on the second pitch. Kept going thinking I would run into a bolt that I couldn't see. No chance. Fell 30 feet to my belayer and proceeded to fall another 30 feet past my belayer advoiding the ledge. Broke a biner that was attached to a fixed piton that was about 7 feet above the belay. Plus, my partner called me that next day saying he couldn't move and asked me to come pick him up and take him to the Chiropractor. This happend in the summer of '91 or '92? Tho... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aeronaut (5.11)
By: Chris White When: Apr 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a good pitch. Great finish after climbing Aerospace and Arrowhead. Look down and to the climbers left from the top of Aerohead for the start.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Dunn Westbay (5.10 C3)
By: Chris White When: Apr 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry for the RANT. But, If you can't set up your own anchors without bolting them, U shouldn't be up there on the route.
George. It's better to fix to pitch 3, bivy on Broadway and then go to the top. If U have a ledge, It's better to set the ledge up on at least pitch 4 because of the angle of the rock. If I remember correctly, pitch 5 is the crux.
To make this route a grade VI, we climbed the Diagonal on the lower wall.
Chris.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerospace (5.11c)
By: Chris White When: Apr 12, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: After reading George Squibb's comment, I will add one more thing. The last bolt is hard to see. After the (5.9?) traverse look for it up and above you. It's easy to keep going right and follow the path of less resistance and miss the bolt.
I also missed it and was kind of confused?
One more thing. This route is good on a nice cool day.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Land of Ra (5.11a)
By: Chris White When: Apr 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am finding out all of Richard Rossiter's Face routes are contrived and try to force you in a certain direction when there's another line of weakness that gets you to the same spot. Sometimes, this causes a mind f... with me and irritates me when I choose the line of weakness to the next bolt.
Usually, The routes are still very classic and only contrived at the end of the face route. Heartbreaker (the whole route) do Mission Control instead, Aerohead, laughing at the moon, and even Sunrider ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Climb Of The Century (5.11b)
By: Chris White When: Apr 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Onsighted this route yesterday. The gear is good but never absolutely bomber except at the crux. If you have hybrid Aliens, bring the yellow/green and maybe the red/yellow and green/blue, then the gear up higher might be absolutely bomber. Not because of pin scars but because of the nature of the crack. Also, bring a blue Ballnut, you might want it. There's the gear beta. Get after it!
Get by the crux, relax and use your feet and cruise to the anchors.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Center Route (5.11a/b)
By: Chris White When: Mar 29, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Full value at 5.11a. Warm up on 5.10 crack first.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerospace (5.11c)
By: Chris White When: Mar 29, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route a couple weeks ago. Placing the yellow Camalot under the flake is good, but only protects you for a few moves. It expands a little, but not that much. You still will deck (swing into corner and get hurt) if you blow the harder moves at the end of the traverse. After 4th bolt, if you use the number #3 Camalot and fall there's a good chance you will become a human chockstone in the flake around the corner. Better to use the RP. If you fall and the RP fails, you will take a hu... more >>
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