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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Death Canyon : Omega Buttress
By: Chris Weber When: Jul 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Left a C4 #1 on the crux pitch of Cardiac Aretes 7/27/09. Email me if you get it out and want to return it...
Nice to have a #3 and 2 #2s for it, as my #1 tipped out and walked in, apparently.
Edit: I guess there are 2 cracks to choose from on the crux pitch, one just right of the roof is what I did, which is described above. Some say (I didn't really look at it) that the crack about 4 ft right is the originally done route, which supposedly is slightly easier (5.9) an... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Sunset Boulevard (5.11b)
By: Chris Weber When: Jun 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I too enjoyed this route and agree that it is soft for Eldo--I felt like I was on the beach in Thailand while powering through the jugs while clipping bolts (in more ways than one). I wasn't sure of the grade beforehand and thought it was hard 10 or easy 11 (not that I am an authority). The runouts were totally manageable on easier ground but I did place some gear (equalized two small tcus)in the stratum below the first bolt as I didn't know what I was getting into. In hindsight, the clip was... more >>
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Location: CO : Eldorado State Park Accide...
By: Chris Weber When: May 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Re: DTD lowering accidents: FWIW, there was one a few years ago when the individual ended up in the hospital with major (head) injuries. I do not how big the scale of the "rescue" was, but I know he didn't get out on his own. A roommate of mine was first on the scene.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Long John to V... : Break on Through (5.10b)
By: Chris Weber When: Nov 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm with Stan on this. Stout for 10b (and the Rossiter topo even says 10a!). Did Chick On The Side (much shorter) after this, and felt it was easier... Break On Through is relatively short-length wise, but it is sustained. It also requires technical moves, power, and big reaches...great pro, but not the most comfortable stances. I got spanked. Nuff said.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Warning: The rappel tree on...
By: Chris Weber When: Sep 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice job camo-ing the bolts...my partner and I glanced around down there about a week and a half ago and didn't see them! Arggh..them we descended the upper ramp to the Edge raps. At least now we know...
Thanks for putting them in!
Chris
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Warning: The rappel tree on...
By: Chris Weber When: Sep 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow. Can anyone provide an update on the placement of these bolts? Has it been approved? If not, when might it be?
Thanks,
Chris
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Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Chris Weber When: May 18, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Below is Patagonia's response to my letter (posted earlier--see above), and my response to their letter.
Hello,
Thank you for writing us with your concerns. Patagonia ambassador Dean
Potter's May 7 free solo of Delicate Arch has generated significant
controversy about the legality and appropriateness of the climb of what has
been described as a national icon. We'll be interested to follow the
controversy and to listen to views of those on both sides.
A few facts are in order. First, no crime... more >>
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Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Chris Weber When: May 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you want to email Patagonia and express your disapproval, their general comments address is customer_service@patagonia.com
I like climbing in Arches (and other parks), and I like Patagonia stuff. But I think they should know that as an "ambassador" for Patagonia, this makes both Potter and the company look bad. Whether or not they knew about it, I wouldn't want my company associated with him.
I wrote the following letter, FWIW:
5/11/06
Dear Yvon/Patagonia:
By now you have certainly hea... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Diamond Dogs (5.10a)
By: Chris Weber When: Apr 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think you could argue that the power lieback is just about as hard as the upper slab moves...once you figure out the sequence (from a good stance), it's not too bad, and the lieback is tough with crappy feet and no pro (it's too low to bother)...
Beta: a .75 works great high in the flake.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Triassic Sands (5.10)
By: Chris Weber When: Apr 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd recommended doing pitch 4 and then rapping...single rope rap as I recall from there, then a double?...we combined p2 and 3 as well. if you're solid on cracks, no need to bring more than doubles. Caveat emptor.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : All Mixed Up (WI4 R)
By: Chris Weber When: Mar 12, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of yesterday, 3/11/06 right side first pitch of AMU looked pretty decent; my partner and I ascended a line to the left (pretty much up the center of the entire flow with some traversing neccessary to avoid very thin pillars through the lower rock bands) which was thinner but avoided a party of three (if one of you three wants to email me and tell me what you lost, I'll get it back to you...). We did one pretty mellow pitch through some rock bands with decent ice. P2 went over a th... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Entrance fees increasing Ma...
By: Chris Weber When: Feb 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Jackson, WY paper said that parks passes overall will stay the same price...
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Verschneidung ... : Allosaur (5.9 R)
By: Chris Weber When: Mar 7, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I disagree with the earlier comment on the last pitch's gear options...I did this yesterday and was able to find excellent TCU and camalot placements the whole way. Fun route--combine with Morning Thunder for a great 3 pitch time.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Verschneidung ... : Morning Thunder (5.9+)
By: Chris Weber When: Mar 7, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with earlier comment: definitely harder (I wrote easier before by accident) than Positively 4th St, and, really, about as long. Both are short. Strenuous off the ground with heady climbing above small gear--I ended up taking probably too much time fiddling with small pieces and tired out more than I should have. Awesome route. Too bad it's a little short. bring TCUs. and small/med nuts or offsets.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Dreamweaver (M2-3)
By: Chris Weber When: Jul 7, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed Dreamweaver on the 4th, with hero conditions. Snow was perfect for kicking steps, some very nice alpine ice (albeit not a ton of it), felt very mellow even for an inexperienced alpinist. We hit the route at about 7:30am.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Darkness 'til Dawn (5.10-)
By: Chris Weber When: Oct 13, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Caution: people have been dropped when toproping the route, with tragic results. If you are going to toprope, DEFINITELY tie a knot in the end of the belayer's rope, even with a 60m.Even then, downclimbing is required, and some scrambling by the belayer.
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