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Location: CA : High Sierra : Columbine Peak
By: Chris Owen When: Nov 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As you head south west down the Bishop Pass Trail there are a few good campsites by the first big lake you pass nearby. With some very lovely evening views of alpenglow on the Palisade crest to the east.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Godzilla Face : Montezuma's Revenge (5.10b R)
By: Chris Owen When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route a long time ago upon spying it from the descent. Thought it was Small Affair Direct! Realized it wasn't the previously mentioned climb when doing the "Toad's Lip Mantle" at the start of P2. I kept thinking "I must be screwing this up it doesn't feel like 5.8". Did the arete variation (5.10b R/X in the guidebook) Fred managed to find a spike to sling.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Dairy Queen Wall : Dairy Queen Wall - Left Sid... : ... : Photo
By: Chris Owen When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Now I'm confused. I thought Norm went up the edge to the right of this line ending at anchors close to the tree in the alcove?
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Stoney Point : Boulder 1 : Photo
By: Chris Owen When: Nov 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The end of a era.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Stoney Point : Boulder 1 : WD40 (V1) : Photo
By: Chris Owen When: Nov 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well Jordan - not really, no more difficult than it's ever been, did it today (11.15.09) without any holds near Three Pigs, still seemed okay, although the finish is a lot more scary without the undercling.But hey I'm 6'-0" so that's gotta help on this one...
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Houser Buttress Area : All Booked Up (5.7)
By: Chris Owen When: Oct 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awkward start, climb gets easier one progresses upwards. Heck of an approach up Houser Gully!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Houser Buttress Area : Badger's Chuff Piece (5.11a)
By: Chris Owen When: Oct 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Surely LEFT of Houser Buttress? Starting move and finishing move to big jug certainly easier if 6' tall. But middle bolt hi-step move seems be easier if you're short!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Houser Buttress Area : Ladyfingers (5.10b)
By: Chris Owen When: Oct 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A well protected fun route, with some traversing involved. Well worth an ascent if in the area but not 5.10b IMHO, easier I think.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Cyclops Rock : The Official Route of the 1... (5.10c PG13) : Photo
By: Chris Owen When: Oct 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Offical?
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Stoney Point : Jesus Wall : Central Route (5.11a)
By: Chris Owen When: Oct 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this in 1986 breaking off lots of loose flakes - nevertheless I've changed it to "Unknown" 'till someone claims an FA.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Solosby Wall : Bebop Tango (5.11a)
By: Chris Owen When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This had the first dyno I ever did on lead, from the handrail to the pocket - and amazingly I stuck it!
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Photo
By: Chris Owen When: Sep 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rogue Imperial IPA comes pretty close to what British soldiers would have drank in the good old, bad old, days of the British Empire - I recommend it.
It's 9.5% proof - so go easy!
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Patricia Bowl
By: Chris Owen When: Sep 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: And if I don't have this guidebook how do I get there? I thought Mountain Project was "Beyond the Guidebook" not "Refer to the Guidebook".
Sorry, but I've had a tough day.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Dappled Mare (5.8)
By: Chris Owen When: Sep 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The traverse at the start of P2 in particular is very good - along with the crack above, not sure why this wouldn't be classic, but then again I like traverses.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Monday Morning Slab, Harry ... (5.8) : Photo
By: Chris Owen When: Sep 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Also for Chouinard's Crack and Variation on a Theme.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Photo
By: Chris Owen When: Sep 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: See the parking lot? Left and up from that is Monday Morning Slab - park here and follow a faint trail on the east side of the parking lot, and just right of the bigger trail, this will put you right underneath the slab, Harry-Daley Route will be right of where this faint trail intersects with the base trail.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Monday Morning Slab, Harry ... (5.8)
By: Chris Owen When: Sep 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Second pitch is a lot of fun.
"Class 3" approach could mess with some people's heads, especially the descent.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Monday Morning Slab, Chouin... (5.7)
By: Chris Owen When: Sep 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Blitzo - isn't this a variation of the SECOND pitch of Harry Daley?
At the top of the first pitch of Harry Daley, but before the dead tree belay below the roof, belay at a small live tree and go left to a 2" splitter going straight up, go left at its top, including a hand traverse on smears, then up a wider crack to finish on the arete on the left. It's easy to follow this arete to the anchors at the top of the second pitch of Harry Daley and rap from there.
Approach info here.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Higher Cathedral Rock
By: Chris Owen When: Sep 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Approach can be found here. Bear right towards Higher Cathedral Rock higher up though.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires
By: Chris Owen When: Sep 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Opposite the west branch of El Capitan Drive there's a trail which heads into the woods, over some fallen trees, to hit the big trail running parallel to Cathedral Rocks, go left here then immediately right up a fainter trail, this will take you nicely up The Spires Gully. Cairns mark the way higher up in the talus.
If you're parked in the Cathedral Rocks pullout; take the trail from the pullout, this hits the big trail running parallel to Cathedral Rocks, go left here then after a sh... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires : Photo
By: Chris Owen When: Sep 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Also a very good view of the Regular Route on Higher Spire.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires : Higher Cathedral Spire : Regular Route (Higher Cathe... (5.9)
By: Chris Owen When: Sep 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an unbelievable climb for its era, and highly recommended. Five pitches as we climbed it.
Not sure why this wouldn't be a classic - it's steeped in history, has a truly awesome (I don't use that word lightly) summit with sweeping vistas, and gets some massive exposure as it progresses. Not the kind of exposure you earn as you climb but the kind that suddenly jumps out at you, unexpectedly, increasing it's impact.
How many moderate routes can boast this? Even in Yosemite. IMHO the trave... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires : Higher Cathedral Spire : ... : Photo
By: Chris Owen When: Sep 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: About to step around the corner and into a massive expanse of nothingness.
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Location: CA : High Sierra : North Guard : West Ridge of North Guard-T... (Easy 5th)
By: Chris Owen When: Aug 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for posting Justin.
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Merriam Peak : Direct North Buttress (5.10b PG13)
By: Chris Owen When: Aug 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for posting!
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