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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : North Cheyenne Canyon : Hully Gully (WI3+)
By: Chris Mack When: Nov 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I could not possibly agree more that this needs to be removed.
I ran into a situation like this, years ago, where I wanted to post directions to a really awesome bouldering area in another state I was living in at the time. I was not a local to the area and for the life of me I could not understand why the hell the place was kept so secret. 10 minutes after saying I was going to put the directions on the site, I got emails, phone calls and more pleading to me not to do so. At the time, I still... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Lower Finger Traverse (5.7)
By: Chris Mack When: Sep 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not even close to 5.7, and harder than 5.8. One of the more sandbagged routes in the state.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Warren - Johnson (5.10c X)
By: Chris Mack When: Sep 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is harder than .10c, and leading this would be pretty moronic. Just TR it.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Unzipped (5.7 R)
By: Chris Mack When: Sep 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is R/X. If you fall on this while on the traverse, you are fucked. It is still a good line to do a few times.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : Creekside Wall : Old Aid (5.9+)
By: Chris Mack When: Sep 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Old-school wallop"...
Damn straight. One of the hardest .9+'s that I have ever been on.
-Mack
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : Bob's Buttress Crack (5.9-) : Photo
By: Chris Mack When: Dec 1, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tracy,
That sure looks like Bob's Buttress Crack. Did it smell terrible? Like all sorts of pigeon pee terrible? If so, they you were definitely on Bob's.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Snuggles to Fall Crack (5.8+)
By: Chris Mack When: Sep 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: To backup what Scott said, the anchors are definitely not the best and need attention. While the pins are pretty well driven, the ring on the right pin MOST CERTAINLY has a crack in it, and it's more than "hairline." I never noticed it before, and when I saw it yesterday, my ass puckered for sure when I started my rap. The pin on the left is just as old, but the ring looks to be in a little bit better shape.
At the very least, there should probably be some webbing up there to equalize that cra... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Pinnacle : Tiger Snap (5.10d R)
By: Chris Mack When: Sep 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great line and a REALLY great line for Cheyenne Canyon. It offers a really nice position on a slightly airy prow, and it is pretty steep. The climbing is really good too and makes you think. The climb is also cool because it really makes you focus. I would say it is a relatively "heady" lead, due to the spacing. The rock IS rough, but offers excellent friction due to its sharpness. I would disagree on the "R" rating, as I also don't think you will bottom out between 2 and 3. This route... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : The Fixer (5.11a)
By: Chris Mack When: Aug 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sure thing Phil, I can see that way being harder, but if you climb this on the right of the pins you HAVE to be off route.
I can see climbing it this way, but I would have to file it under strange contrived variations. As I am thinking about it now, I think Soft Touch lists the variation, but still, I think its whack. Not to mention that the best way (everyone's "best" is different I know) to enter the groove is from the left. Climbing right would involve some weird traversing nonsense, and I ... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : The Fixer (5.11a)
By: Chris Mack When: Jun 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Whoa!
I mean absolutely no harm by this, and I do not mean to insult anyone, but there is NO WAY this thing is 5.11. The friction/balance moves before the groove are the crux, and they are very solid 5.10 moves. It might be .10b, but .11a?
I would say that the riff-raff eliminator runout to the start on this route, Pure Energy, and Rocket Fuel is pretty bad even by Garden standards (or any standards for that matter). I guess it keeps things interesting though. I climbed it with the first pin... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : There Goes The Neighborhood (5.10- PG13)
By: Chris Mack When: Jun 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is great. I would say it is a harder .10, so I will go with the guidebook rating of .10c. The move over the roof requires ultimate commitment. If you don't completely go for it and commit to that move, you are not going to get it. I think this is a tough onsight due to the commitment factor and how precise you must be with your foot. The business portion of this route is super short, but super fun. You just have to do it. I will give it 'PG13' as well since it can be slightly dangerou... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Skinner Mountain
By: Chris Mack When: May 1, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed here on this past Sunday (4/30/06) and had a great day. We helped increase the visibility of some of the cairns on the climbers trail to help limit new trails from being formed.
A slight update to the approach, in hopes that it helps you find the proper trail: When you pass the gate to the campground and walk past the hydrant, head generally towards the rock, but look around for a pile of large boulders. If you walk directly towards these boulders and pass them on your left, you shoul... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Elevenmile Dome : The Overleaf (5.8)
By: Chris Mack When: Jan 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would highly agree that the line that takles the roof head on is harder then 5.8. Would have to say mid .9ish. I would also say that there is definitely a right and a wrong way to tackle that roof, and if you do it the wrong way, it's going to feel way harder than it should.
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Sheep's Nose : Lost in Space (5.9)
By: Chris Mack When: Sep 7, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: AC,
Thanks for the info. To clarify, I am referring to the second pitch. This is where I was the most confused. As I said, we didnt even make it to the 3rd pitch because we ran out of time.
As I look at the second picture, I think I understand where I was supposed to go. The other features up there just suck you in I guess. If you look at the fourth picture below, you can see the shadow of a medium roof and dihedral at second pitch height above the large corner of the first pitch. Am I corre... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Sheep's Nose : Lost in Space (5.9)
By: Chris Mack When: Sep 6, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: AC,
Just so I understand you, the "crack" in question is right in front of my face and this is the part I climbed up right off the belay? If this is true, then the crack only lasts for 15-20 feet tops. Correct?
Also... I was to stay as left as possible after I gained the stance above the crack and climb along the rounded edge passing a roof on my right? Then I will hit the crack?
I looked at a picture I took of the southeast face on the approach, and I think I can now see where I was suppos... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Sheep's Nose : Lost in Space (5.9)
By: Chris Mack When: Sep 6, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ok, Ok, Ok.
Tried this route this past Sunday (9-4-05). The first pitch/start was easy enough to find, we think. The pictures of the first pitch on this site and the Trout book's topo do match up with what we climbed. The Hubble books topo [didn't] even look remotely close so we [didn't] follow that guide.
We climbed a slabby/broken ramp to start, gained a face with a funky move right into an easy slabby handcrack. This handcrack led to what I have read/heard described as anything from a .5 ... more >>
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