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Member Since: Dec 21, 2007
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact Chris Wenker


Point Rank: # 251
Total Points: 2,009
Last Year: 57
Last 30 Days: 20
20 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Chris Wenker been climbing?










Contributions


All (1078) | Routes (91) | Areas (21) | Photos (132) | Comments (124) | Posts (86) | Stars (469) | Ratings (155)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: DaveT : Indian Creek : Photo
By: Chris Wenker When: Sep 21, 2013

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Comments: Two thumbs up!
I think this is Cat Wall?


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : TWA Canyon
By: Chris Wenker When: Jun 11, 2013

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Comments: With the help of a knowledgeable hiker, we found the trail intersection of the La Luz with the top of the path down in to TWA Canyon. From the apparent head of TWA Canyon, keep hiking south on the La Luz toward the tram, for 150-200 yards (?? – that’s a guess; anyway, it feels like you’re going too far). There is a blazed tree adjacent to the right side of the trail, and at this point an informal foot path cuts back hard to the right. Follow this through some switchbacks down the le... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Warpath Dome : Photo
By: Chris Wenker When: Jan 7, 2013

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Comments: It seems like the Warpath P2 traverse is drawn too high, or at least, higher than what me & my partner climbed. Doesn't P2 traverse the wild dike, then approach that hidden crack from below? Rather than hitting the hidden crack near its top?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Fuzz (5.10 PG13)
By: Chris Wenker When: Nov 29, 2012

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Comments: I would like to offer a sincerely, fully, deeply, heart-felt "F" "U" to the jackoff asshat who scratched the graffiti on this route. Keep your scrawling to the city streets, jerk.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : Photo
By: Chris Wenker When: Nov 3, 2012

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Comments: Yeah, sorry about cutting that toaster-sized block loose. But I was on a tenuous stance and there was no way to keep that thing attached to the wall. It came loose the instant I touched it, so my only option was to scream "ROCK" a few times and let it go. Luckily my belayer was off to the side.
We also yanked off a dinner-plate flake the first time I was on that pitch. Otherwise it seems pretty solid up to there. And "R".

Editorial: It's unfortunate that that new bolted line crosses the le... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : Photo
By: Chris Wenker When: Jul 15, 2012

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Comments: I recently caught a whipper off this pitch. And a week later I whipped off, myself. Consequently, I've ended up bailing off this pitch twice now in the last month. It is truly awesome climbing, but we did clean off some big loose stuff. It is just too tuff for my lead head right now. Seems pretty "9+" for sure, in the 1974 Sandias sense of the term, IYKWIM.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Forest (5.10b/c)
By: Chris Wenker When: Jun 8, 2012

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Comments: And yet, Mainliner goes clean.
Climbing.com
Cody Roth: "I do hope that my ascent will be an example of new school creative trad climbing, and that it will encourage others to consider climbing in this low impact style, and to think twice before sinking bolts."


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Newberry's Delight (5.9)
By: Chris Wenker When: Jun 6, 2012

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Comments: P1 is awesomesauce!
Kudos to the MP'er who suckered us into carrying two #4 C4s all the way down here. I'm not even sure one #4 was necessary; mostly hands and fists in the sustained splitter.
(Maybe you meant, Friends?).


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Water Wall and Lower Areas : Open Books (5.10a)
By: Chris Wenker When: May 21, 2012

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Comments: The fixed pin at the upper overhang is a pretty janky placement; might not even hold body weight, and the eye is placed so it won't accept a carabiner. Best plan is to not plan on counting on it. Gear can be placed nearby.
Great climb, otherwise.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Dream Tower : Hail Dancer (5.9)
By: Chris Wenker When: May 21, 2012

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Comments: Although it looks ok from the ground, when you're face-to-face with it, the lower-off anchor needs some love.
Maybe the next team that cares can bring up some more quicklinks, and/or very short sections of real chain, and some washers (or real hangers), and a wrench, and a Good Samaritan badge, to try to equalize the mank.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Water Wall and Lower Areas : Gothic Pillar (5.6)
By: Chris Wenker When: May 18, 2012

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Comments: Not yet.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield
By: Chris Wenker When: Apr 25, 2012

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Comments: "What would be great is some sort of visual that details which gully has the rap station, and where the hand line crosses over to the primary ramp."

I made just such an image for a friend last year. So I posted it up here too.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Selfish Wall : Id (5.9)
By: Chris Wenker When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: Watch out for the pile of gravel held in place by a chockstone just after the topout.
Also, be aware that the entire ground surface around Ego and Id is a fresh loose talus cone, and these two routes appear to be at the base of a big rockslide chute. Little vegetation, and no lichen, suggest there was a very recent rockfall from up high (recent, on the geological time scale). Who knows when the next one will slide?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Selfish Wall : Ego (5.10-)
By: Chris Wenker When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: We TR'd this. 10- might be a sandbag.
More importantly, we pulled off about 20 pounds of holds. The sandy, fractured rock at the cruxy topout is really bad, and I hope you're not leading when the next chunk pops.
Also, be aware that the entire ground surface around Ego and Id is a fresh loose talus cone, and these two routes appear to be at the base of a big rockslide chute. Little vegetation, and no lichen, suggest there was a very recent rockfall from up high (recent, on the geological time... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Low Horns : Gertch : Gertch's Folly (5.8)
By: Chris Wenker When: Feb 24, 2012

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Comments: The hanging belay isn't truly a 'hanging' belay, if that's defined as an anchor where you're fully weighting the bolts and there are no other options on a purely blank vertical face. I recall it as a ramplike setting, pretty exposed, with decent options for backing up the bolts with gear; we had no problems there.

It's the rappel stations in the south descent gully that will get your attention though. The first consists of a rusty pair of ~5/16" (?) bolts (which can be backed up for... more >>


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Avalanche Canyon : Matternought Peak
By: Chris Wenker When: Oct 3, 2011

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Comments: Maybe an administrator could move the "Dem Bones Buttress" entry under this Matternought header, for organizational continuity?


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Bush Shark Area : ... : Photo
By: Chris Wenker When: Sep 8, 2011

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Comments: This is the way I went last month, but it felt way super hard for 5.9 (e.g., harder than anything on Aviary). Has a hold broken lately? --or I'm just a bumbly :|

Edit 9/2012: I just re-led this pitch & found the 5.9 move; it's all good.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Early Wall : Early Wall - Left End : The Diablo Cruiser (5.7)
By: Chris Wenker When: Aug 21, 2011

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Comments: Very similar to the harder 5.8 corners at The Overlook at White Rock. Multiple (>2) gold camalots would be useful on this one.
No tree at the top for a belay, so prepare for a gear anchor in crummy rock. Would be more stars but for the chunder at the top, por desgracia.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Lawyers, Guns & Money (5.9)
By: Chris Wenker When: Aug 8, 2011

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Comments: Anchors need some love here. All 5 bolts are big buttonheads (3/8"?), and are solid(ish), but some are cratered out behind the hangers.
The tat is also sketchy at both rap stations. We didn't plan or expect to climb this route, so we didn't have any replacement materials the day we were there, sorry. Take new cord/webbing, and a second screwgate/ring for the lower station.

Pro: Took a single set of nuts, and cams up to 2". I used an entire set of C3's, and two TCU's, and wished I'd had more... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Rolling Mountain : Choss Bubbles (summer var. ... (5.9-)
By: Chris Wenker When: Jun 29, 2011

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Comments: Interesting. Any idea how your line might relate to this summitpost guy's mixed route, or any of his other (unpublished) lines on Rolling Mtn?

16 Penny


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Forest (5.10b/c)
By: Chris Wenker When: Jun 11, 2011

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Comments: Freshly bolted; appears to have happened sometime in the last 3 weeks?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter
By: Chris Wenker When: Jun 1, 2011

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Comments: @Leo:
I don't think that's correct. It's not 8 miles to the 'trailhead' for SSSP; it's only ca. 3 miles in from the pavement to the start of the approach hike. Maybe you're thinking of the end of the Davis Cyn road, at the NPS boundary? That's more like 7-8 miles.
And, there's no requirement for a NPS permit to camp at the SSSP 'trailhead'. That's located on BLM land (although part of the road in the wash does cross private land).


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs : Kor's Dog (5.8)
By: Chris Wenker When: Mar 15, 2011

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Comments: The online guide says that Gary Clark gave this route its name (implying he did the FA?).
This route seems to be a minor variation to the left variation of Desperate. The online guide shows Kor's Dog going up the left side of the bulging low block, and then jogging left and ascending the left side of the crack system above. Build a gear anchor on top.
I found the left side of the low block to be a reachy awkward move (and I'm 6'... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Hoosier Pass/Lincoln Fall : The Diamond Couloir (Mod. Snow)
By: Chris Wenker When: Mar 3, 2011

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Comments: Someone's TR here:


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada : Route 19 (5.9+)
By: Chris Wenker When: Feb 21, 2011

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Comments: If you're going to stay in the wide crack (which was mostly rattly fists & armbars for me), more than one #4 Camalot, and maybe even an old #4.5, would be reassuring, if this is at your limit, I recall.


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