Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Sep 1, 2002
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Chris Weidner


Point Rank: # 1,000
Total Points: 604
Last Year: 28
Last 30 Days: 0
31 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Chris Weidner been climbing?










Contributions


All 148 | Routes 35 | Areas | Photos 47 | Page Improvments | Comments 19 | Posts 1 | Stars 41 | Ratings 5

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: Chris Weidner When: Jul 30, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I've enjoyed a friendly dialogue with Thom Byrne. He has asked me to remove 5 of the 8 protection bolts I placed on Archangel and to keep my new two-bolt anchor intact. I will do this as soon as I can, which will be at the end of August (I'm going out of town Wednesday morning).

Admittedly, my logic was flawed and premature, but I approached Archangel with an honest belief that it had never been free climbed previously.

I did not intend to retro-bolt an existing trad route.

I had se... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: Chris Weidner When: Jul 27, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Hey all, this is a comment I posted on the supertopo thread yesterday that I figured I should post here as well:

I should have made more of an effort than I did to contact Thom Byrne for permission before I added bolts to Archangel. I apologize for offending so many people over this.

I did ask many locals and contemporaries of Thom (including Bob Horan, Pat Adams, Bruce Miller, Joe Mills, Taylor Roy, Matt Samet, and many more) about Archangel's history. To everyone I spoke with, it was a myst... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: Chris Weidner When: Jul 23, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Reportedly freed by Thom Byrne in 1988, Archangel remained largely ignored until 2013. Eight bolts and 2 two-bolt anchors were on this route before I touched it. Gear possiblities are limited to very small, flared placements; there was no useful anchor (it was too far to the side); and there were several large, loose blocks that made it a dangerous endeavor.

In June 2013, I spent several days cleaning this route on rappel, removing the old bolts, and adding new ones. I made ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Red Springs Rock : Eggs Over Sleazy (5.12a)
By: Chris Weidner When: Feb 8, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Haha Mark, brilliant! Thanks for some great laughs!!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Red Springs Rock : Eggs Over Sleazy (5.12a)
By: Chris Weidner When: Feb 7, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Hey Mark, good to hear from you.
I didn't even see your anchors (great camouflage) - even with binoculars - until I'd rapped in from the very top of the cliff. They appeared old enough that I wasn't worried about the face being somebody's current project, especially having first scoped it over a year ago.

I placed a new anchor with 1/2-inch bolts about 8 feet lower (and removed your hangers), which made more sense for lowering.
The name is loosely related to our old dog Slamball, who likes it... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Secret 13 Wall : Where is My Mind? (5.13)
By: Chris Weidner When: Feb 6, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The third bolt had wiggled in its hole for about a year. When I checked it out yesterday the hanger had been removed, probably to prevent an accident. I replaced the bolt with a long half-incher on Feb 5, 2013. I couldn't determine the safety of the other bolts on the route but they appear to be in decent shape.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : Peach Monkey (5.12b) : Photo
By: Chris Weidner When: Dec 13, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Great photo, Pinklebear!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Bed Hog (5.13a)
By: Chris Weidner When: Dec 2, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Amazing climb.
The approach is a little more of a hassle than most BoCan cliffs, but not by much. We climbed the first pitch of Mordor then scrambled another 40 feet to the base, where there's a decent belay ledge. Alternatively, you can scramble in from the side at low, albeit loose, fifth-class.
In early December, it's in the sun from about 10am until 2pm.
Great work Pat, Duncan, and Steve!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Hearts and Arrows (5.12b)
By: Chris Weidner When: Jul 13, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks, YDPL8S. I resubmitted a higher res topo it's now legible.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand : Rock Atrocity (5.13+)
By: Chris Weidner When: Dec 29, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Rock Atrocity is one of the best and hardest routes on the Front Range, despite the poor rock quality. Over many attempts in 2010, I broke four small but positive footholds. There are now smaller (and fewer) footers at the crux and sandy smears higher up where there used to be positive edges. The route still goes just fine, but it's hard 13d.

In the interest of route preservation, I re-reinforced several crucial holds (December 2010) that were flexing and crumbling. If this route receives more... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand : Back in Yaks (5.9)
By: Chris Weidner When: Jul 3, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: As per the route description, I guess I really needed the tick. I led this route onsight on 5/29/10, and it's actually quite reasonable. The first 30 feet of soloing is steep, solid, and about 5.7. After this there's bomber gear, with one more runout to the anchor (unless you reach left to clip the last bolt of Back in Yaks). Great route!

1ea. Camalots: #0.4, 0.75, 2, 3.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Dirt Me (5.12- PG13)
By: Chris Weidner When: Nov 13, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Despite the eye-catching line, i.e.: a roof crack, this route is pretty bad. That said, there are enough detractors from the quality that it's almost worth climbing: the scary choss leading to the roof, the disconcerting flakiness of the rock, the decaying bird that your fingers tickle when you're in the best jams, the ubiquitous bird shit . . . aaahhhhhh. The second crux is more awkward than it is hard, and with an open mind it's even kind of fun. Traverse to the same anchor as Lord Of... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Rhythm Method (5.12b R)
By: Chris Weidner When: May 28, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Rhythm Method was established as a headpoint: I toproped it twice (from the anchors on Between The Sheets) before leading it, placing all the gear on lead. Onsighting the route would be serious because the gear at the crux is very poor unless placed perfectly - and even then it may not hold. A very small, inobvious piece and a flared cam protect the crux moves. I hung on TR for awhile tinkering with different gear options before finding those two pieces. Thanks for the comment Bob.


Location: CO : Alex Honnold Free Solos Moo...
By: Chris Weidner When: Apr 4, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: One ramification of Alex's free-solo is that he shattered the free climbing speed record: the new record stands at 1 hour 23 minutes, base to summit.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Red Limit (5.12c A0)
By: Chris Weidner When: Jul 9, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Red Limit is an excellent route, blending powerful moves into a delicate topout. I free climbed it on 7/6/06 at 12d. Mine is likely the first free ascent, though I can't be sure. A bit of brushing was required to reveal the micro edges that would stay put, but it is now quite clean and highly recommended. Great effort to Richard and Jessica for finding and bolting the line.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Kissing Couple area : Kissing Couple
By: Chris Weidner When: Apr 24, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Hey Tony, I believe the spire you are talking about is called Crack Of Noon Tower, and was first climbed by James Stover and Mac Lewis a couple years ago. The chimney on the right when viewed from the base of Long Dong Wall is called "Right Route" 5.11. The left crack system is called "Crack Of Noon Route" 5.10, and it is climbed in one long pitch.

Good to see you at Indian Creek a few weeks ago!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Cinders And Saints (5.7)
By: Chris Weidner When: Oct 25, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Allow me to clarify: The route is 30 feet long while the flaky fun part is only 5 feet long.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : The Industrial Wall : Rogue (5.14-)
By: Chris Weidner When: Apr 7, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Yes, I am claiming the FFA (First Free Ascent).


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Upper East Face : The Notch Couloir (Mod. Snow)
By: Chris Weidner When: Jun 25, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: 6-23-03. The route is in very good condition and probably will be for at least a few more weeks. It consists mainly of steep snow with a few short rock steps that are protectable with small-medium cams and nuts. My partner and I carried crampons but didn't use them, although they would have made several short sections more secure. I also did not need my second tool or ice screws but it is likely that the second tool will come in handy any day now. I wouldn't bother bringing screws as rock g... more >>