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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Red Springs Rock : Eggs Over Sleazy (5.12a)
By: Chris Weidner When: Feb 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Haha Mark, brilliant! Thanks for some great laughs!!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Red Springs Rock : Eggs Over Sleazy (5.12a)
By: Chris Weidner When: Feb 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Mark, good to hear from you.
I didn't even see your anchors (great camouflage) - even with binoculars - until I'd rapped in from the very top of the cliff. They appeared old enough that I wasn't worried about the face being somebody's current project, especially having first scoped it over a year ago.
I placed a new anchor with 1/2-inch bolts about 8 feet lower (and removed your hangers), which made more sense for lowering.
The name is loosely related to our old dog Slamball, who likes it... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Secret 13 Wall : Where is My Mind? (5.13)
By: Chris Weidner When: Feb 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The third bolt had wiggled in its hole for about a year. When I checked it out yesterday the hanger had been removed, probably to prevent an accident. I replaced the bolt with a long half-incher on Feb 5, 2013. I couldn't determine the safety of the other bolts on the route but they appear to be in decent shape.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : Peach Monkey (5.12b) : Photo
By: Chris Weidner When: Dec 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great photo, Pinklebear!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Bed Hog (5.13a)
By: Chris Weidner When: Dec 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing climb.
The approach is a little more of a hassle than most BoCan cliffs, but not by much. We climbed the first pitch of Mordor then scrambled another 40 feet to the base, where there's a decent belay ledge. Alternatively, you can scramble in from the side at low, albeit loose, fifth-class.
In early December, it's in the sun from about 10am until 2pm.
Great work Pat, Duncan, and Steve!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Hearts and Arrows (5.12b)
By: Chris Weidner When: Jul 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, YDPL8S. I resubmitted a higher res topo – it's now legible.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand : Rock Atrocity (5.13+)
By: Chris Weidner When: Dec 29, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rock Atrocity is one of the best and hardest routes on the Front Range, despite the poor rock quality. Over many attempts in 2010, I broke four small but positive footholds. There are now smaller (and fewer) footers at the crux and sandy smears higher up where there used to be positive edges. The route still goes just fine, but it's hard 13d.
In the interest of route preservation, I re-reinforced several crucial holds (December 2010) that were flexing and crumbling. If this route receives more... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand : Back in Yaks (5.9)
By: Chris Weidner When: Jul 3, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: As per the route description, I guess I really needed the tick. I led this route onsight on 5/29/10, and it's actually quite reasonable. The first 30 feet of soloing is steep, solid, and about 5.7. After this there's bomber gear, with one more runout to the anchor (unless you reach left to clip the last bolt of Back in Yaks). Great route!
1ea. Camalots: #0.4, 0.75, 2, 3.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Dirt Me (5.12- PG13)
By: Chris Weidner When: Nov 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Despite the eye-catching line, i.e.: a roof crack, this route is pretty bad. That said, there are enough detractors from the quality that it's almost worth climbing: the scary choss leading to the roof, the disconcerting flakiness of the rock, the decaying bird that your fingers tickle when you're in the best jams, the ubiquitous bird shit . . . aaahhhhhh. The second crux is more awkward than it is hard, and with an open mind it's even kind of fun. Traverse to the same anchor as Lord Of... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Rhythm Method (5.12b R)
By: Chris Weidner When: May 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rhythm Method was established as a headpoint: I toproped it twice (from the anchors on Between The Sheets) before leading it, placing all the gear on lead. Onsighting the route would be serious because the gear at the crux is very poor unless placed perfectly - and even then it may not hold. A very small, inobvious piece and a flared cam protect the crux moves. I hung on TR for awhile tinkering with different gear options before finding those two pieces. Thanks for the comment Bob.
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Location: CO : Alex Honnold Free Solos Moo...
By: Chris Weidner When: Apr 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: One ramification of Alex's free-solo is that he shattered the free climbing speed record: the new record stands at 1 hour 23 minutes, base to summit.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Red Limit (5.12c A0)
By: Chris Weidner When: Jul 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Red Limit is an excellent route, blending powerful moves into a delicate topout. I free climbed it on 7/6/06 at 12d. Mine is likely the first free ascent, though I can't be sure. A bit of brushing was required to reveal the micro edges that would stay put, but it is now quite clean and highly recommended. Great effort to Richard and Jessica for finding and bolting the line.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Kissing Couple area : Kissing Couple
By: Chris Weidner When: Apr 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Tony, I believe the spire you are talking about is called Crack Of Noon Tower, and was first climbed by James Stover and Mac Lewis a couple years ago. The chimney on the right when viewed from the base of Long Dong Wall is called "Right Route" 5.11. The left crack system is called "Crack Of Noon Route" 5.10, and it is climbed in one long pitch.
Good to see you at Indian Creek a few weeks ago!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Cinders And Saints (5.7)
By: Chris Weidner When: Oct 25, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Allow me to clarify: The route is 30 feet long while the flaky fun part is only 5 feet long.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : The Industrial Wall : Rogue (5.14-)
By: Chris Weidner When: Apr 7, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, I am claiming the FFA (First Free Ascent).
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Upper East Face : The Notch Couloir (Mod. Snow)
By: Chris Weidner When: Jun 25, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: 6-23-03. The route is in very good condition and probably will be for at least a few more weeks. It consists mainly of steep snow with a few short rock steps that are protectable with small-medium cams and nuts. My partner and I carried crampons but didn't use them, although they would have made several short sections more secure. I also did not need my second tool or ice screws but it is likely that the second tool will come in handy any day now. I wouldn't bother bringing screws as rock g... more >>
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