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Member Since: Aug 1, 2001
Last Visit: Jan 6, 2006
Contact Chris R


Point Rank: # 3,966
Total Points: 103
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 41 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvments | Comments 23 | Posts | Stars 8 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Y Couloir

(14)

Alpine, 2000'

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : North Face of Pike's Peak

Feb 2, 2003

North Face

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (12)

TR, 1 pitch, 40'

CO : Colorado Springs : ... : White Twin

Sep 18, 2002

Warren - Johnson

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X (9)

Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'

CO : Colorado Springs : ... : West Face

Jun 6, 2002

Velvet Habel

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (9)

Trad, Sport

CO : South Platte : ... : Turret Dome

Mar 30, 2002

Cocaine

5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (14)

Sport, 1 pitch

CO : Colorado Springs : ... : East Side

Sep 9, 2001

Borgoff's Blunder

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (7)

Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'

CO : Colorado Springs : ... : West Face

Aug 8, 2001

Skyline Pig

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (17)

Sport, 2 pitches

CO : Colorado Springs : ... : East Face

Aug 1, 2001

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Chris Russelavage - following Chad McFadden on Monster Crack.  Unique climbing with positive holds on either side of the massive flake.  Pic. by Mark Johnson.

Chris Russelavage - following Chad McFadden on Monster Crack. Unique climbing with positive holds on either side of the massive flake. Pic. by Mark Johnson.

CO : Colorado Springs : ... : Monster Crack (5.8)

Aug 19, 2003

Topping out Bucket Slave.

Topping out Bucket Slave.

CO : San Luis Valley : ... : Bucket Slave (5.10b)

Sep 19, 2002

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Twin Spires : Red Twin : Potholes (5.7)
By: Chris R When: Aug 31, 2004

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Comments: I've been climbing at The Garden for the past 12 years, so naturally this bolting issue hits home for me. My take: I was mildly disappointed but not surprised to see new bolts some of the easy, high-profile routes in the center of the Garden~routes very popular with beginners. I hope, though, that in replacing the old drilled angles and pins, the sanctity of the original line would be maintained, and new bolts will at most *replace* existing pin placements. Heck, do away with some pins on ove... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Southwest Face / Finger Fac... : Finger Ramp (5.7)
By: Chris R When: Oct 23, 2003

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Comments: Shane Zenter's comment addressing the seldom-ascended second pitch of this line (what's up Shane??) are right on. Spicy and fun, and in no way overprotected like some Garden lines, the second pitch is clean (for the Finger Face) and fun climbing.

From the first pitch anchors in the alcove, continue the leftward traverse, clipping three bolts, and then move straight up the rock to some bomber chain anchors not visible from below. Rappelling from those anchors, a single 60m rope will reach th... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : East Face : New Era (5.7)
By: Chris R When: Sep 30, 2003

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Comments: Easiest descent from New Era: climb the route to the top-out, then drop into the first easy notch to the east. Find a pair of bolts at a ledge. Three 25m raps with a single cord, or one long rope-stretcher with twin 60s will put you on the ground.

FYI: the left bolt at the top anchors wiggles a bit and doesn't feel really bomber. Someone with the proper judgment and skill might consider replacing it....


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : East Side : Mighty Thor (5.10c)
By: Chris R When: Sep 5, 2003

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Comments: Cable anchors are in bad shape; one of the cable threads has snapped, and the remaining two or three aren't far behind. Also, the cable is placed in the "triangle of death" fashion. I left a short blue 1" sling equalized through 2 of the 3 pins, that being all I had at the time. Be cafeful....


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : East Face : Bob's Buttress Crack (5.9-)
By: Chris R When: Sep 5, 2003

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Comments: Watch out for bats in the crack about 1/2 way up. Jam with care!


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods
By: Chris R When: Sep 3, 2003

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Comments: To follow up on the previous chalk comment, "red sandstone" colored chalk can be found at Mountain Chalet in downtown Colorado Springs, or from "www.rockchalk.net". Works just as well as the white stuff, slightly more expensive, but completely legal and not nearly as blatant to the eye.In an area like Garden of the Gods, climbers have a very high profile. It is worth it to be sensitive to the regulations of the area, or, worst case, climbing could be banned in the Park (not as far-fetched as i... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Southwest Face / Finger Fac... : Lower Finger Traverse (5.7)
By: Chris R When: Aug 25, 2003

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Comments: A bit contrived, but good moves on solid (for the Finger Face) rock. This line will be easier for those accustomed to bouldering traverses, as it moves almost parallel to the ground. Accurately rated at 5.7, but it's not a climb for beginners or fresh leaders.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : West Face : Sword in the Stone (5.8)
By: Chris R When: Aug 25, 2003

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Comments: Having only climbed it once, Dan, I don't know if bird crap is seasonal or what. It was like a layer of paint in early August.Also, as an afterthought, Bob D'Antonio's Garden of the Gods guidebook shows 4 bolts protecting the traversing section of this line. We only found two, so either the guidebook is wrong, or the other pins pulled, or they are well-hidden. The two remaining pins protect the traverse adequately, although a fall far from either pins would be a horribly painful pendulum. Th... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : West Face : Sword in the Stone (5.8)
By: Chris R When: Aug 22, 2003

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Comments: After climbing this line, I considered just going over to Centers for Disease Control to have them check me for any bird-crap related illnesses.Upon reaching the 3rd bolt and beginning the leftward traverse, every hold had to be wiped clean of accumulated bird droppings. My partner got bombed slap on the cheek with a fresh one.Except for the first 20 ft., the climbing was not all that great; I have no intention of ever repeating this bomb.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : West Face : Scarecrow (5.10b R)
By: Chris R When: Aug 22, 2003

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Comments: This is a climb for the bold, fearless leader. In TR'ing this line last night, I pulled or kicked off three large rocks. The "pull down not out" Garden mantra doesn't help much here, as the rock hasn't really cleaned up with traffic. The lower section of the line is fairly loose rock; more traffic won't help too much. Personally, I wouldn't lead it, not having much confidence leading 10b on scant, hollow pro.This line deserves an "R" rating, there isn't much natural pro in the lowe... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : East Side : Cocaine (5.10-)
By: Chris R When: Jul 21, 2003

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Comments: A 60m rope will reach the ground, provided you rap into the Gash.

Also, my original beta post from 2 yrs. ago confused me after re-reading it. Having done the line again last night, here's a better try: From the first pin, move up and keep trending left. Upon reaching the left-most pin, clip it with a long runner, and traverse straight right, into a small right-facing corner, then cruise upwards to the anchors.

I always enjoy this line. Seems to require a great deal more thought and contem... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Montezuma Tower : North Ridge (5.7)
By: Chris R When: May 8, 2003

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Comments: Not to take anything away from a mega-classic route, but this line really should be added to the blacklist. I climbed it again last night and was amazed at how much modification the first pitch has undergone. The middle of the first pitch, especially, has gone from what might have been 5.7 or 5.8 smearing to a 5.3 staircase of cut holds.There's nothing that can be done about it now, of course, but since this website can be used as a powerful communication tool within the climbing community, ro... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Twin Spires : Red Twin : Potholes (5.7)
By: Chris R When: Mar 18, 2003

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Comments: Regarding the previous post and the "trained squirrel" belay slave...climbers must think alike. My buddy and I respond to those tourist questions the same way, but our trained pet who fixes our belays is a monkey. At least 90% of questioning tourists believe the story, and start looking around expecting to see our belay monkey when we start calling for "George" to come back. Fun with tourists...it's kind of cruel but irresistable, especially in a place like Garden of the Gods, where climbers ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : East Face (Standard) (5.4)
By: Chris R When: Oct 7, 2002

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Comments: The direct nature of this line makes it an ideal candidate for simul-climbing. My partner and I completed it in under an hour in that manner....a good place to learn simul-climbing technique. My only advice with that is, in the words of Dennis Jackson......."Just don't f&%*ing fall!".


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : Southeast Face : Greatest Route (5.8)
By: Chris R When: Sep 26, 2002

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Comments: Super-fun first pitch. We started in the corner and pulled over the small roof (12' off the ground) into the maze of shallow cracks. P1 is sustained for the grade on superb quality granite. P2 crux move over the roof is about as easy as a roof move will be--the jugs are gigantic. Well worth the never-ending approach.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Bucket Slave (5.10b)
By: Chris R When: Sep 19, 2002

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Comments: Fun combination of sport and trad. The only downfall is that the line is so short. The crack can be adequately protected with a pink tri-cam and a #10 stopper. Hueco'ed headwall is enjoyable pocket-pulling.


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