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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Sumo Greatness Slab : Ice Climb (5.9+ R)
By: Chris Perkins When: Mar 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: It must have been a boring day for the first ascensionist. I found the crux to be above the cam in the horizontal. The moves past the bolt and pin seemed easy. One move wonder with consequences. I used a #3 camalot.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Disciples of Hell (5.11b)
By: Chris Perkins When: Jan 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yep, that looks drilled. Funny thing, I don't think I used it anyway.
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Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos
By: Chris Perkins When: Jun 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bring a 70 or 80 meter rope!! 60 works, but I felt I missed out on a lot of stellar routes.
Love this place!
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Location: International : Europe : Hungary : Budapest : Róka Hegy
By: Chris Perkins When: Apr 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We followed the directions, but couldn't locate the crag. No climbing in Hungary for us. Off to Romanian and climbing for sure.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Wall Street (Time Square?) (5.8+ PG13)
By: Chris Perkins When: Apr 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is "Time Square".
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Mismatched Partners (5.10b/c)
By: Chris Perkins When: Apr 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route should be avoided. Sling anchor on weak tree, no rings or biners.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Nessun Dorma (5.10)
By: Chris Perkins When: Apr 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Soaking wet April 1st.
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Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Leadville : The Klettergarden
By: Chris Perkins When: Jul 13, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you camp here, please be sure to extinguish your campfire thoroughly. A fire broke out on the afternoon of July 6, 2010. I cannot say for sure how it started, but I meet a group of 4 people breaking down camp the day before the fire. The fire originated from that fire pit. Please be firewise and prevent climbing closures!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area
By: Chris Perkins When: Nov 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: To Ken Trout:
Please do not climb at ANY area that the Access Fund has helped maintain access to or purchased to preserve climbing. Please let me know what area you have preserved and I will not climb there. I could go on about how dumb your statement is but will refrain.
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Location: J. Fox : Stoopid Stuff : Photo
By: Chris Perkins When: Jan 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Please tell me this is photo shopped!
Kidding, I believe it.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Culp's Fault (5.8)
By: Chris Perkins When: Aug 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rap stations looked the same from 5 years ago. Take webbing and a knife and clean it up. We replaced as many pieces as we could.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Spearhead : Iron Messiah (5.10)
By: Chris Perkins When: Apr 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great free climb! The anchors could use a little help, but the drilled pins still feel solid. We replaced a few sections of webbing on some anchors, the ones we thought were the worst of course. Use the overlaid photo for the best pitch desciption.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Leisure Climb (5.9)
By: Chris Perkins When: Aug 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I didn't take the time to read all the comments above, but a great variation is to climb the first two pitches of Leisure, then traverse left to the third pitch of Midsummer's, and finish on Sex Comedy. Super fun!
CP
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Comic Relief (5.10)
By: Chris Perkins When: Aug 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The second pitch is harder than 10b if you have big hands, but that goes to say with most cracks. The fourth felt harder than 5.9 also. The book is correct when it says leader needs to be solid on 5.10.
I liked Journey Home better.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso...
By: Chris Perkins When: Aug 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just wanted to Thank Rob Dillon for his comments. I agree with all these points. Especially the dogs. They don't climb, why have one? They just eat up your climbing funds and other peoples food etc....
The Climbing Ranger, Brent is an extremly valuable asset to the Black Canyon. I hope he's around for a while. He gave me and my friend Erik some great route beta.
Thank Brent!
CP
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Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : ... : Humanality (5.10d)
By: Chris Perkins When: Dec 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was told not to use the tree as it is considered sacred. Climb the ladder and traverse up and left thru the small cave.
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Location: ID : Hells Canyon : The South Face of the Flati...
By: Chris Perkins When: Jun 22, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: How's the weather in July?
I'm passing through to Portland for a wedding, just wanted a good place to crag for a day.
CP
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Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Chris Perkins When: May 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a letter I sent to Patagonia.
This wouldn't have been such a big deal if it had not been a publicity stunt and spread like wildfire through the press and ended up on the desk of the Department of the Interior. But since it did the relations between climbers and resource managers will take a long time to heal if they ever heal.
I think that Dean is an amazing climber, but he lost my respect by endangering climbing access to so many who have been trying for years to maintain good relatio... more >>
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : The Access Fund Trailhead : ... : Sweet Sunday Serenade (5.9)
By: Chris Perkins When: May 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is there a bolt on this route besides the anchors? I see it in the picture that describes the 2nd pitch var., but I never saw it. Route finding is tricky here. The way I read the book was the 3rd pitch took the left angling crack/flake with all the vegetation, but here it is described as the twin finger/hand cracks straight up. We took this cause it looked better. I thought this was Sun Dancer. Another party that was coming down thought the same thing and did the veggie var.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face (5.6)
By: Chris Perkins When: Apr 22, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The grade I gave is for one of the cracks to the right of the standard south face route. It is the striking left arching hand crack. It finishes at the top of pitch 2 on the standard route.
My partner, Turtle also lead a crack system to the right of this which went up at around 5.9 to the bottom of the second summit. Both routes better than standard route.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Wild Flower (5.10a)
By: Chris Perkins When: Apr 22, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Felt the 2nd pitch was solid 5.10. Great pitch. No one was willing to do the third pitch. We need some character building for sure. Never had the need for a #5 on 2nd pitch, but would on 3rd. (next time)
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Sentinel Spire : Fast Draw (5.10)
By: Chris Perkins When: Apr 22, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: In case you haven't noticed the Desert Rock III guide by Bjornstad gives a quite different route description for Fast Draw. The crux is right off the ground. The book says the crux is the 2nd pitch finger crack. No finger crack on the route except for the one finger jam at the start move. The Colorado guide book by Stewart Green is much more accurate. There are some new bolts where there shouldn't be any, (1st pitch), C'mon bolting a crack? Was this before the invention of cams or what? Anyway i... more >>
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