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Member Since: Mar 7, 2009
Last Visit: 33 mins ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 863 | Routes 55 | Areas 16 | Photos 126 | Page Improvements | Comments 41 | Posts 469 | Stars 108 | Ratings 48
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Devil's Slide : Close To The Top (5.8+)
By: Superclimber When: Feb 19, 2014

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Comments: This climb can be done in one pitch. It's about 180' to the top. Medium to large pro can be found under the overlap. Take a long runner. There is a lot of lichen up high. There are no top anchors, but there are large boulders at the top that can be slung for an anchor.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : The Shield : Runamuck (5.7+ R)
By: Superclimber When: Feb 14, 2014

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Comments: The original name given this route by the first ascentionists was Farewell to Arms. But I guess by the time the guide books were written the name was lost to history.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : The Shield : Stranger Than Friction (5.10b PG13)
By: Superclimber When: Feb 9, 2014

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Comments: This might be the single most classic climb in the park!

One option for preventing rope drag is to clip the first bolt with a double length runner, then travse to the second bolt, clip it and pull the "infamous mantle." Once over the mantle, clip the third bolt, and finally reach down to your feet and unclip the second bolt. It also helps to use a long runner on the sixth bolt, right before the right trending runout.

A 60 Meter rope will barely make it from the midway anchors as long as the ro... more >>


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : The Shield : Fly on a Windshield (5.10a)
By: Superclimber When: Feb 9, 2014

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Comments: In answer to boulderkeith. A second bolt was added to the existing bolt on the ledge shared with French Route creating a double bolted anchor that is in fact about 40 feet up. However, to get the full value of the climb I posted a descripion above that goes all the way to the top. It is kinda run out and I estimate it's about 150' if one follows the beta I posted above.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : The Shield : Fly on a Windshield (5.10a)
By: Superclimber When: Feb 8, 2014

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Comments: This route can be taken all the way to the top, but it's a little runout.

Find one sketchy placement before the first bolt, continue up 5.8ish face moves with ground fall potential to clip the bolt. Next trend up and left to the obvious ledge with the double bolted anchor. To continue to the top-clip one of the anchor bolts and run it out up and slightly left to the downward facing flake that protects with small gear. Use a long runner and again run it out this time trending slightly right to t... more >>


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Smorgasbord Wall : Texas Flakes (5.4)
By: Superclimber When: Feb 8, 2014

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Comments: The novice leader should be aware that the top will be run out without a large piece and a long runner. Also, the route traverses to the left, so you have to think about protecting your second.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Smorgasbord Wall : Smorgasbord (5.6)
By: Superclimber When: Feb 8, 2014

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Comments: A 60 Meter rope WILL NOT make it all the way down from the anchors.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Buzzard's Roost : Southwest Face : Cubes (5.7)
By: Superclimber When: Feb 6, 2014

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Comments: Chossy near the top.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Echo Canyon : Motorboat Rock : Navy Route (5.8)
By: Superclimber When: Feb 6, 2014

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Comments: Chossy near the top.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Echo Canyon : Motorboat Rock : Motorboat (5.9)
By: Superclimber When: Feb 6, 2014

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Comments: Take all the #4s you can find (four is sufficient).


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Echo Canyon : Triple Cracks Sanctuary : Grass Crack (5.10)
By: Superclimber When: Feb 6, 2014

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Comments: Another one of Erock's truly stellar traditional climbs.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Echo Canyon : Orange Peel Area : Orange Peel (5.10a)
By: Superclimber When: Feb 6, 2014

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Comments: Move for move the 5.10a grade seems fair. But wiggling in stoppers from those thin edges and tiny nubs makes it feel tougher. One of Erock's über classics and a tricky lead.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Echo Canyon : Lunch Rock Area
By: Superclimber When: Feb 3, 2014

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Comments: There is a double bolted anchor located on the top.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Cheap Wine Wall : Dome Driver (5.8)
By: Superclimber When: Jan 30, 2014

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Comments: The above description isn't entirely accurate. The route is as follows.

1. Start on the nicely featured water streak below the tree in the corner of the overlap. This streak which often stays wet for some time after it rains is in fact found between Hartford and MD 20/20. There is one bolt in the lower water streak before the overlap. Next wiggle in behind the tree (try to be gentle, this tree takes a beating) and mount the overlap in the corner behind the tree. Pull a couple easy, but expose... more >>


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Cheap Wine Wall : Boston (5.7)
By: Superclimber When: Jan 30, 2014

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Comments: I don't think any of the gear before the first bolt is very useful or reliable. For example, the small placement before the overlap quickly becomes useless as you climb higher. Furthermore, the flakes at the notch are rotten. If you fall on a placement here you may have a huge flake following you to the ground. What few opportunities exist after the overlap and before the first bolt are no better. The first bolt is about 60 feet off the ground. Regardless, this is a really fun climb and worth do... more >>


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Center Wall : Chunky Tuna (5.5)
By: Superclimber When: Jan 30, 2014

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Comments: The ground is never very far away on this traversing crack. The rookie leader needs to be aware of the multi-directional forces that may occur should the leader or second fall and place gear accordingly. Also, there's a black spot on this one that sometimes stays wet for a while after it rains.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Center Wall : Caver's Nightmare (5.4)
By: Superclimber When: Jan 30, 2014

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Comments: Frankly, I think this makes for a better descent route than climb. You can walk down it from the climber's right side of the chimney, but you still have to pretty much crawl and squeeze out of the bottom. Then you can down climb the choosy and vegetated 4th class face and hand/fist crack below the chimney to reach the ground. This chimney may also serve as a means for topping it out after climbing Chunky Tuna.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : News Wall : Mercy Street (5.9 PG13)
By: Superclimber When: Jan 30, 2014

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Comments: Mercy Street has historically been documented as 5.10a in guide books. The 5.10a grade is consistent with other grades in the park. Additionally, the pro in the overlap is quite good and various size placements can be found. The best options for pro in the overlap probably exist a little bit higher in the crack and slightly right of the bolt line. Take a long runner. Warning: there has been at least one serious injury resulting from a fall onto the overlap from below the first bolt. Gear in the ... more >>


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : The Shield : Deep Prok (5.8)
By: Superclimber When: Jan 24, 2014

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Comments: You CAN NOT rap or lower off of Prok Wall with a single 60 Meter Rope.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : The Shield
By: Superclimber When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: ATTENTION: There are many places in the park where you can NOT rap or lower with a 60 Meter rope. In some places not even a 70 Meter rope will make it. Do not assume you can rap or lower off of anything safely even with a 70.

You can not rappel or lower off of Proc Wall, Ripple, Boston, Kraken, or Devil's slide (Mark of the Beast & Harder Than it Looks) with a 60. If you are climbing in any of these areas you must walk off, take two ropes, or find the rap bolts in the alcove above News Wall. A... more >>


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Smorgasbord Wall
By: Superclimber When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: ATTENTION: You CAN NOT rap or lower off this route with a single 60 Meter rope.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Cheap Wine Wall : Hartford (5.8)
By: Superclimber When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: ATTENTION: You CAN NOT rap or lower off this route with a single 60 Meter rope.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Cheap Wine Wall : Dome Driver (5.8)
By: Superclimber When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: ATTENTION: You CAN NOT rap or lower off this route with a single 60 Meter rope.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Cheap Wine Wall : Boston (5.7)
By: Superclimber When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: ATTENTION: You CAN NOT rap or lower off this route with a single 60 Meter rope.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Cheap Wine Wall : Ripple (5.9+)
By: Superclimber When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: ATTENTION: You CAN NOT rap or lower off of this route with a single 60 meter rope.

There are many places in the park where you can NOT rap or lower with a 60 Meter rope. In some places not even a 70 Meter rope will make it. Do not assume you can rap or lower off of anything safely even with a 70.

You can not rappel or lower off of Proc Wall, Ripple, Boston, Kraken, or Devil's slide (Mark of the Beast & Harder Than it Looks) with a 60. If you are climbing in any of these areas you must walk of... more >>


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