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Member Since: Sep 6, 2005
Last Visit: Apr 28, 2014
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Point Rank: # 5,779
Total Points: 64
Last Year: 6
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 250 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 39 | Posts 52 | Stars 110 | Ratings 45
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Neck Row Feel Ya

5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R (1)

Trad, 2 pitches, 170'

CO : South Platte : ... : Pine Cone Dome

Jan 23, 2006

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Pitch 2 crux.

Pitch 2 crux.

Colorado : The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Co... : Post

Nov 25, 2012

Beer

Beer

Chris Mack : Climbing

Sep 22, 2010

A topo of Directissima, on Specimen, using one of ...

A topo of Directissima, on Specimen, using one of the photos from this page.

CO : Colorado Springs : Sentinel and Specimen Rocks

Nov 22, 2008

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Three Graces : The Window (5.2)
By: Chris Mack When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: I simply love this thing, and I climb it all the time. I have honestly climbed it more times than it is probably worth. I just think it is kind of neat and unique, and it puts a smile on my face. That said, after my trip up it yesterday and after some of the insane "climbing" I have been seeing around town lately, I wanted to add a few bits of info for anyone who cares.

There are exactly 2 points of protection on this entire route that are any good. You can get a fairly decent #1 Camalot... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Solar Slab : Solar Flare (5.10+)
By: Chris Mack When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: This route now sports 2 bolts on the slab. The rest of the route is as it was.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Forever Young (5.12a)
By: Chris Mack When: May 19, 2013

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Comments: Interesting comments that give some insight into the different strengths of fellow climbers. I don't think the starting moves are hard, just big (really big). I thought the mantle was exciting, and the final headwall was sustained burl! Fantastic, sustained, and (somewhat) varied!


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Santa Cruz (5.8)
By: Chris Mack When: May 19, 2013

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Comments: This route doesn't suck. The crux is VERY well protected with a fairly bomber #0.75 Camalot (at chest height) and then you can place a BOMBER nut about 1 foot away from that when you change cracks. I agree that if you are a 5.8 leader, it is going to seem a little intense, but it isn't any harder than .8+ or perhaps 1 move of 5.9. It looks improbable from the trail that it would go at 5.8, and the rock is generally excellent the whole way up. A solid crack route at Penitente, with a bolted... more >>


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : 10,000 Maniacs (5.11c)
By: Chris Mack When: May 19, 2013

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Comments: The start of this is insane. Something haaad to have broken off... right? :)


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Kayak for Sale (5.10)
By: Chris Mack When: May 12, 2013

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Comments: This route is awesome. Personally, I like it a lot better than Bye Bye Butterfly, although it is a little easier. A few spots are exciting. Bring a yellow TCU or C3 for a horizontal below an obvious chickenhead. Great climbing!


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Stories for Boys (5.11a)
By: Chris Mack When: May 11, 2013

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Comments: It is a tough onsight for sure. The crux holds are somewhat in-obvious, but fairly positive, if also fairly small. I dug this route. I honestly just love mixed routes.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Heaven's Gate : The Emerald Isle : Death Star Compactor (5.8+)
By: Chris Mack When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: While easy, this route is home to great climbing on good stone. A little cold in the morning though!


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Knome Dome aka Water Dome : Heels over Heads (5.10b)
By: Chris Mack When: Dec 1, 2012

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Comments: This route is actually pretty cool. A bit of a 1 move wonder as the roof is certainly out of character with the rest of the route... and kind of desperate! Good route though!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : Total Abandon (WI4+ M6)
By: Chris Mack When: Nov 24, 2012

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Comments: Climbed on 11/23/12 with Mike Murphy.

The approach is really pretty dry, with only some sugar snow dusting most of the rocks, but it is pretty packed at the start which is the steepest and most consequential part. Consider crampons. The route itself is in good, but it is definitely starting to sublimate out. Another week or so and it may not even be there anymore. The first pitch has ice to the ground, but it is thin in spots. The first pitch is fat at the top. The second pitch is in good. The... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Asshole Rock : Mister Sol (5.10c)
By: Chris Mack When: Oct 2, 2012

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Comments: OK route, worth doing once. The start is a little sketchy, and that bolt is complete crap.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Blair (overview) : Lower Blair I, II, III, and... : Goldirocks : Stress Fracture (5.10b)
By: Chris Mack When: Sep 24, 2012

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Comments: I kind of agree with slim. It is worth doing once. Might as well run a lap or two on TR afterward, to make it worth it. We expected it to be twice as long, so it was a bit of a letdown when we realized it was only 25 feet high. I agree that the gear is a little tedious. The only placement I really had an issue with was the one right before the hand jam exit. It seemed to take forever to get it just right, because the rock is so jagged, and it needs to be just right because you really cant afford... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Cove Rock : Breakfast in America (5.11)
By: Chris Mack When: Sep 10, 2012

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Comments: This route is incredibly hard. I think it is a ridiculous sandbag unless you are a 5.13 climber or your digits fit the crack perfectly. I am being conservative when I say it is 11+. The start isn't too bad, but it is committing and if you do it wrong it is going to suck the life out of you. The crux is desperate. BAG-O-SAND. :)

The bolted anchor is in good condition, but it is set back a bit, so if you plan to rig a toprope, make sure you have some double length slings to extend the anchor.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : No Intent (5.12a)
By: Chris Mack When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: Holy burltown! I thought the crux of this was pretty tough but doable, but the difficult mantle afterwards was a heartbreaker! Very desperate if you get worn out working the crux. The climbing above the crux is very nice, and you can tell by the abundance of lichen how infrequently this route gets climbed to completion.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Pumping Huecos (5.11a)
By: Chris Mack When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: As of 9/1/12, the last bolt was still missing a hanger. The stud is long enough to use a wired nut as a hanger though, if you "must" do this route.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Chicken Head Ranch : Mini-Splitter (5.10a/b)
By: Chris Mack When: Jul 21, 2012

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Comments: This route is great, on excellent rock, with good gear. Very fun, you may want to run a few laps on it as as we can all agree it is just too short and leaves you wanting.

That said, for it to be .10a, you either must have hands the size of a female wood elf, or be a dude with massive sausage fingers as fat as Ball Park franks. It is dead vertical to bulging, and ring lock size for most people. I am not sure what I would rate it, but getting established and making the first few moves was damn t... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : The Wailing Wall : El Supremo Grande (5.10)
By: Chris Mack When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: You can take it to the top and descend with one 70m rope. The route's true finish (past the intermediate anchor) is out of character with the rest of the route and is very desperate smearing to the top anchor. Body tension and good smearing technique will get you through it.


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Sunshine Dome : Shining Path (5.11b) : Photo
By: Chris Mack When: May 29, 2012

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Comments: This picture is righteous.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Obscure Buffalo Creek Rocks : Shotgun Express (5.10c)
By: Chris Mack When: May 27, 2012

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Comments: If this were longer, there would be a freaking line at the base of it. It is absolutely outstanding and worth doing. The only downside is that it is very short. It is worth the hike if you are already in the area. Just west of the parking spot nearest deGaulle's Nose is another parking spot. There is an old doubletrack road heading south into the forest, take it. When it forks, stay right. This should get you to the rock. It will be the first formation of any real size that you encounter.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Gnome Dome : Leave My Monkey Alone (5.10b/c)
By: Chris Mack When: May 27, 2012

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Comments: This pitch is a hoot. When you get there and see how short it is you are going to laugh, but it is totally worth doing and really fun. The jams through the roof are thin, tough, and on very sharp and crystalline rock. Use a quick tape wrap on this if you want to climb anything else for a week. Save a #.75 and a #1 for the anchor. The anchor will also take nuts.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Little Scraggy Dome : Two Jews Blues (5.10a)
By: Chris Mack When: May 27, 2012

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Comments: This thing is outstanding, but I think it is much harder than 10a (and this isn't my first rodeo on slab). The direct start to the first pitch is very delicate and tough, and the rest of the pitch will have your feet screaming for mercy. There are nearly no real stances on this pitch like on many other slab routes, so you never get that rest your feet are hoping for. The second pitch roof is committing but well-protected. The third pitch's airy start is a little freaky when the wind is howling, ... more >>


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