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Finishing up Elusive Dream at the King Wall.  Adirondacks, NY.


Member Since: Dec 16, 2006
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Chris Duca


Point Rank: # 213
Total Points: 2,361
Last Year: 39
Last 30 Days: 0
66 Compliments
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All (1759) | Routes (128) | Areas (27) | Photos (93) | Comments (211) | Posts (296) | Stars (581) | Ratings (423)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Eastern States : Warm Sunny Saturday !!! : Post : Photo
By: Chris Duca When: Feb 26, 2014

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Comments: Sun-baked quarry ice at its finest!


Location: PA : Ralph Stover State Park (Hi... : g. The Great Buttress : Tales from the Crypt (5.10a R)
By: Chris Duca When: Dec 28, 2013

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Comments: Good climbing through some positive--but polished--holds. I would suggest a PG-13 rating due to to the proximity to the dying tree. If someone were to peel off the final mantle to Cactus Ledge, there's a good chance you'll be pulling tree limbs out of your arse!!


Location: PA : Ralph Stover State Park (Hi... : j. The Great Zawn : The Problem (5.12a)
By: Chris Duca When: Dec 28, 2013

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Comments: Very fun route, with a pretty cryptic crux down low. With the right beta, I thought the route felt like a solid 11c/d.


Location: PA : Birdsboro Quarry : f. Big Wall : Batman (5.11)
By: Chris Duca When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: While climbing this route today, I pulled off a rather large (the size of a half loaf of bread) chunk of stone from the second to last undercling near the top. While I think this makes the move a little different, I don't feel it changes the grade in the least. Great route!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Columbia (5.9-)
By: Chris Duca When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: Great first pitch, and the 2nd pitch becomes forgettable after about 40 or 50 ft. of climbing. The rock quality deteriorates rather quickly making the gear drastically less ideal the higher you climb. Be careful, too, as there are some large, loose blocks/flakes around.


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Far From Feral (5.10a)
By: Chris Duca When: Mar 17, 2013

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Comments: Very fun route, and a fine addition to the Armed and Dangerous area. Helps spread out the hoards a bit! I thought the crux was fairly short, and not as hard as "Armed and Dangerous". Felt more in line with the 9+ at Bonsai.


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : The Maltese Falcon (5.8)
By: Chris Duca When: Mar 17, 2013

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Comments: I thought this was a very fun route. Climbs a lot like a Gunks' route.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : Steel Feathers (5.10 R)
By: Chris Duca When: Mar 17, 2013

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Comments: James--

It is commonplace to step right into the final 40' of HMT, as the top of Steal Feathers proper is grossly under-protected. I'll update the gear rating to reflect it. Thanks!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Psalm 32 (5.12a/b A0)
By: Chris Duca When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: Not to my knowledge, though he has worked on the project above "The Howling", I believe.


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Chicken of the Sea (5.9)
By: Chris Duca When: Aug 21, 2012

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Comments: The correct route name is "Chicken OF the Sea". Gear is sufficient after the initial 15 feet, and remember to steer right into the final 5 feet of "Trotsky" at the top, otherwise you will be greeted by a heinous, grassy mantle.


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : General Patton's Arete (V3 PG13)
By: Chris Duca When: Aug 13, 2012

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Comments: Bill, great to see you snooping around here finally! Do you recall the face immediately to the left of this? Pat Tracey, you and I were working on it some years ago, but to my knowledge no one sent. Has it since been sent? If so, it would be a SCREAMING highball!


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Dr. Dias (5.9+)
By: Chris Duca When: Aug 8, 2012

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Comments: super fun facing climbing with a little exposure, to boot, above the dirty Birch Tree corner. The crack above the line of 3 bolts was short and, to me, seemed more fingery than thin hands (one actual hand jam) with a lot of suspect flakes/chockstones within the crack and horizontal break at about 2/3 height.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : Truffle Hog (5.10b/c)
By: Chris Duca When: Jul 30, 2012

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Comments: I'd suggest 10b, but perhaps after climbing it a few more times, I'd agree on 10-. Compared to other 10as on the cliff, this rig seemed a little stout.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Mayflower (5.10c)
By: Chris Duca When: Jul 13, 2012

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Comments: Got on the first pitch of this today, and, like the aforementioned comment by Derek, I find this pitch extremely stout in the grade (read: add a letter grade, or two), despite having climbed it many times. Nevertheless, it is fun as hell!


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Bat Cave (V4-5)
By: Chris Duca When: Jul 8, 2012

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Comments: Hey Read--

Though I haven't climbed it in several years, I do believe you are spot on with the grade. The arÍte immediately to the right that swings around to the far right is dubbed "the batwing", and I believe it was around V2/3.

-Chris


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Bat Cave (V4-5)
By: Chris Duca When: Jul 5, 2012

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Comments: Ethan Peck, Benny and I FA'ed this problem back in 2003, I think (though it may have been done prior to us without being documented). I believe we called it "The Bat Cave" due to its proximity to the spooky little cave immediately to the left with bats living in it.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : The Spider's Web
By: Chris Duca When: Jul 5, 2012

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Comments: Ian, was this your first time to the Web? If so, I can understand how it may have taken you 25 to 30 minutes.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : The Spider's Web : TR (5.10a/b)
By: Chris Duca When: Jul 5, 2012

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Comments: After having climbed TR and OTL several times this season thus far, I would have to agree with Eric's statement.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Prow Area : The Prow (5.11d)
By: Chris Duca When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: Climbed this today, and to my surprise, after i reached over and clipped the first pin on the fifth pitch, I was able to manually pull it entirely out of the crack. The pin was bent at a 30 degree angle, and essentially rusted through to the core. A #5 BD nut fits perfect in a constriction about an inch or two above where the pin once was.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Arietta Region : Good Luck Mountain : House of Cards (5.13a)
By: Chris Duca When: May 19, 2012

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Comments: Couldn't you also consider "Zabba" au naturale, as well, considering no one clips the bolt at 2/3 height? McCormick's route at The Web is on Public Land, no?


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Arietta Region : Good Luck Mountain : House of Cards (5.13a)
By: Chris Duca When: May 10, 2012

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Comments: The FIRST completely trad line in the Park; not the only.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Prudential
By: Chris Duca When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: We had planned to climb here today, but there is a sizable raven's nest in the large hole at the start of Stoned Temple Pilot's, so we opted to not disturb anything that could have potentially been still living there.


Location: NH : Rumney : Darth Vader : Darth Vader (5.9)
By: Chris Duca When: May 6, 2012

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Comments: Climbed this for the first time today. Super fun movement through the flaring offwidth, and some engaging climbing above. too bad it's so short.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Dip Wall : Logic and Proportion (5.10a PG13)
By: Chris Duca When: Apr 28, 2012

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Comments: Climbed this route the other day. Spectacular mini-adventure route with fun climbing over not-so-optimal gear. This route would certainly see more traffic and clean up nicely with the addition of an anchor.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : Block Party (5.10a)
By: Chris Duca When: Apr 17, 2012

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Comments: Climbed this route again today with a 70m cord, and I would say that length rope is recommended for rapping the 2nd pitch of the route safely.


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