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Sitting on top of Wasteland


Member Since: Apr 6, 2001
Last Visit: Jun 10, 2014
Contact Chris Dawson


Point Rank: # 945
Total Points: 652
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
23 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Chris Dawson been climbing?










Contributions


All 252 | Routes 42 | Areas 5 | Photos 20 | Page Improvments | Comments 57 | Posts 9 | Stars 111 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: Chris Dawson When: Jun 10, 2011

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Comments: The enjoyability of this climb is greatly enhanced by doing the Robbins traverse. The 5.10 finish has funky moves that are way less fun. I find it fascinating that anyone could climb this route and give it less than four stars. A bona fide Eldo classic.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Honky Jam Ass Crack (5.7)
By: Chris Dawson When: Sep 20, 2004

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Comments: Is this climb actually called Honky Jam Ass Crack? Seriously? I thought it was Honky Ass Jam Crack.... either way, good grief.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Steppenwolf (5.9)
By: Chris Dawson When: Sep 20, 2004

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Comments: Hey everyone, notice how in the picture above, the route Honky Ass Jam Crack is listed hilariously as Honky Jam Ass Crack. Oh god, that is funny.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Metamorphosis (5.10a)
By: Chris Dawson When: Dec 7, 2002

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Comments: This comment is about the "Urine Trouble" variation described by Steve above. I found the hardest moves to be getting established at the base of the corner, which are protected very well by a drilled pin and a cam. The runout above is pretty long but the climbing never exceeds 5.9 after the initial leftward traverse. Also there is some questionable rock near the top of the corner including a big loose hold, so be on guard. Great alternative ending to a kick ass pitch. Who added that drilled... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : The Three Mousketeers (5.11c)
By: Chris Dawson When: Oct 23, 2002

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Comments: Overall a fun line. There's an initial hard move past the first bolt followed by sustained climbing to the crux at the second-to-last bolt. I found this last section to be very reachy and I'm 6'2. Also, the last 20 ft. felt a bit contrived to me. Not sure what the FAs had in mind here exactly, but whatever I did, it was fun.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Kitty Litter (5.10)
By: Chris Dawson When: Oct 14, 2002

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Comments: The slings at the anchor have been replaced on 10.12.02


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : The Bat (5.9+ PG13)
By: Chris Dawson When: Aug 19, 2002

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Comments: Just backing up Tony's assessment. For sure not "S", for sure not 5.10b, and definitely no pin; however, I think it's two stars when combined with Laughing at the Moon in one pitch. Kick ass!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : The Industrial Wall : Railing (5.12b)
By: Chris Dawson When: Aug 1, 2002

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Comments: Sorry, it's route number 7. -CD


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : The Industrial Wall
By: Chris Dawson When: Aug 1, 2002

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Comments: Two things. As of right now, it appears that there is some work being done on the rails. As a result, there are a lot of Railroad Employees driving around the tracks doing various important things. These guys do not appreciate the site of a few climbers tramping around their "Private Property", and they will let you know it. It is advisable to avoid weekdays along the tracks for the time being lest we worsen the already poor access to this wonderful climbing area. Also, there is an incredible... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Chiefshead Northwest Face : Birds of Fire (5.11a R)
By: Chris Dawson When: Jul 28, 2002

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Comments: Attempted this route today. The approach took us about 4 hours, but take into account that my partner (Ben Bruckner) and I are severely out of shape, Ben because he chain-smokes Marlboros and myself because I am a lazy bastard who needs to get out of Eldorado Canyon more often. As everyone has already stated, there is no snow field at the base this year and the face is in prime (dry) condition. The real purpose of my post is to let everyone know that it's possible to combine the first two pit... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Neon Lights (5.11a R)
By: Chris Dawson When: Jul 18, 2002

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Comments: After pulling the roof on the first pitch, it is very easy to move left onto Sunset Boulevard (just after the crux) and enjoy the steep huecoed climbing on that pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Sunset Boulevard (5.11b)
By: Chris Dawson When: May 29, 2002

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Comments: Here's what I think about sport/trad with bolts. In my opinion, part of the definition of a sport route is that it is well protected enough that there is no potential for long falls or dangerous ones anyway. So if you go by that, routes like Pansee Sauvage or maybe Just Another Girls Climb, or any pitch with an "S" rating, wouldn't be classified as sport routes even though bolts are the only pro. Sunset Boulevard is definitely a sport route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Diffraction (5.10a/b)
By: Chris Dawson When: May 16, 2002

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Comments: Just wanted to stress the loose rock warning. My partner snapped a jug just past the crux and hit the ledge. Be careful.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Alice in Bucketland (5.8+ R)
By: Chris Dawson When: May 16, 2002

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Comments: Just a quick comment on the wasp situation at the first belay. It seems that about a million wasps make their home behind the flake that contains the two pin anchor. Unless you are accustomed to having wasps crawling all over you while belaying, I'd recommend avioding this route until it gets cold again. I suppose one could combine the first two pitches, but I'm not sure where a decent belay could be had over the second roof. I had to downclimb the pitch to above the first roof and then climb ov... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Grand Course (5.11-)
By: Chris Dawson When: May 3, 2002

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Comments: Just do it in one pitch either 10 or 11!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Swanson Arete (5.5)
By: Chris Dawson When: Apr 18, 2002

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Comments: This route can easily be done in two pitches from the Red Ledge. Staying directly on the arete is supposed to make it harder, like .7 or something, and with less gear. With a single 60meter, rap twice (almost reaching the Red Ledge-a short down-scramble) from trees and then rap down the loose chimney with bolted anchors to the right of Rewritten/Great Zot's Pitch 1. Total of 4 raps.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Catmandu (5.10+)
By: Chris Dawson When: Apr 15, 2002

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Comments: I believe "Cat-man-do" is a little futher down the trail. There is a plaque and it doesn't really climb a dihedral. Starting just left of a leaning 5.11 finger crack, it is all sizes (1 - 3.5 friends) for about 90 ft. Climb crack and face to a little roof-slot thing. Pull through and jam to the top. That other route is good too.

The guide doesn't say anything about Catmandu being a corner, but other than that it fit the description pretty closely. Guess that corner is something else, but defini... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : 3 Strikes You're Out (5.11)
By: Chris Dawson When: Apr 15, 2002

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Comments: This pitch protects well using just Camalots too. 4(.75), about 6-7(#1) and 1 or 2(#2). Very sustained. Good hand jams halfway lead to more thin hands/liebacking.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Piece of Dirt (5.11a)
By: Chris Dawson When: Apr 11, 2002

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Comments: This is a fun pitch. I remember it feeling a little spacey between the bolts after the crux. There are still some slab moves to be had. But, that's what I liked about it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : East Crack (5.10b)
By: Chris Dawson When: Apr 11, 2002

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Comments: There is a variation to this route, that I'm not sure has an established name or anything, but I'm sure it's been climbed before. Instead of starting up the left-facing corner into the overlap, it's possible to climb start about 6-8 ft. to the right. This leads up into incipient cracks with sparse pro above the overlap. Moves felt like hard .9 or easy .10, but it's been a while, so I'm not sure my memory serves correctly. Eventually, the pitch wanders up into easier, though steep ground with a n... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Cruisin' for Burgers (5.10c)
By: Chris Dawson When: Apr 11, 2002

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Comments: I've done this dry a couple of times now, so here's the gig on the pro: The break takes a great red camalot. There is a little slot for a small nut in the corner, but the placement requires care. I've seen the thing pull or almost pull a couple of times. The cam is sufficient for pro, but if you blow the last moves out of the corner, it's a whip. Really, this climb is a little soft for the grade, but it's still well worth doing.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : The Cavity (5.10b)
By: Chris Dawson When: Apr 4, 2002

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Comments: 5.10b "+"? This must be one of those hard low-grade mid 5.10s. Nice call, Charles.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Blackwalk (5.10b/c R)
By: Chris Dawson When: Mar 23, 2002

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Comments: The second pitch is worth doing as well. From the bolt belay (not backtalk's) at the top of the first pitch, move up and left on huecos underneath the rotten roof break. There is a bolt after 10 or 15 ft. Pull up past the bolt and then move right underclinging past two old softiron upward driven pins (5.9). There's a nice blue alien slot a little ways past the pins. Pull around right and cruise to the top past another bolt and small roof. This pitch is runout as well, but the runouts are really ... more >>


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Lobby : Electric Nork (V5)
By: Chris Dawson When: Mar 13, 2002

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Comments: A slight variation skips the glue-enforced hold and goes straight for the lip from the mid-height left hand hold. This can probably be done static, but is most fun as a twisting dyno. Probably about the same difficulty as the regular problem.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : FM (5.11c)
By: Chris Dawson When: Mar 11, 2002

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Comments: I got out in a really wide stem and was able to switch my hands into the dihedral with no problem. This made getting into the fingerlocks pretty easy, meaning the crux for me was the steeper climbing below. I have really long legs however, so this might not be feasible for everyone.


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