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Sign near the Third Flatiron


Member Since: Apr 14, 2009
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Point Rank: # 240
Total Points: 2,196
Last Year: 347
Last 30 Days: 150
65 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1142 | Routes 42 | Areas 25 | Photos 246 | Page Improvments | Comments 171 | Posts 442 | Stars 186 | Ratings 30
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Playhouse Rock
By: Chris D When: Mar 22, 2010

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Comments: This formation has an easy, fun downclimb, and a pair of quick-links you can rap off of at the top of The Irritators.

Don't rap directly on the bolt hangers at the top of Psycho Groove. We saw no fewer than three groups use these standard bolt hangers as rap rings today. Have to assume they were sport climbers who haven't ever seen an anchor setup not designed for rappelling. Bad form


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Hidden Tower : Sail Away (5.8-)
By: Chris D When: Mar 22, 2010

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Comments: If, like me, 5.8 is the limit of what you lead, and you've led Mental Physics a couple of times, and come to this route thinking that at 5.8- it can't be much harder than Mental Physics at 5.7+, you're in for a surprise. This was one of the most exciting climbs I've ever done. What a treat!

The polished hand crack is just beautiful. Totally forgiving for people (like me) who are still working on mastering placing nuts. Every move at 5.8 can be well-protected.

If you have big hands (as I ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Playhouse Rock : Final Act (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Mar 22, 2010

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Comments: I love it. 5.4. Well, if the only other 5.4 you ever climbed was The Bong, you'd probably be ready for this one.

Joshua Tree is great. This is a fun climb. The crux is low, and stemming out will get you past it, but it's hard to protect.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Playhouse Rock : Stucca By A Yucca (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Mar 21, 2010

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Comments: I like when people say a route "isn't worth doing." rating a route's quality is one thing. Outright saying it isn't worth doing is pointless.

A route's quality is subjective, to some degree. We found this route to be a lot of fun. Definitely worth doing.


Location: VA : Grayson Highlands State Par... : Contact Station Area : Contact Station Boulders : Periscope Boulder : ... : Photo
By: Chris D When: Mar 20, 2010

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Comments: Wow. That's a lot of padding.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : South Face - Left Side : Left Ski Track (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Mar 17, 2010

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Comments: If you are a new leader this route is exciting as hell. The first pitch is great holds and confident climbing, but pro has to be well-extended to prevent drag and a fall would be, well, bumpy on the highly featured rock.

The second pitch past the step-around is as airy as it gets at the grade and height and is totally exhilarating. Step back out at the belay past the step-around and throw some extra pro in for your second.

For the third pitch we opted to take the flake that runs pretty much ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Nomad Dome : Last Angry Arab (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Mar 15, 2010

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Comments: This is a fun climb, with just a couple of moves at 5.6 and some fun easy climbing in between. I used a couple of off-width moves on lead that I probably didn't need to, but it was all sorts of fun. Despite the crack, don't expect to get more than a jam or three.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Nomad Dome : Final Furious Farsi (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Mar 14, 2010

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Comments: A fun route with some surprisingly burly moves right before it starts back toward the left, and typical long run-out, only with a gritty swing waiting for either the leader or second who manages to fall traversing over to the chains above Willard.

A nice variety of friction, crimps, and jugs.

Typical Josh 5.6... :)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Nomad Dome
By: Chris D When: Mar 14, 2010

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Comments: I like that the general description of this formations says that it offers both "trad and sport."

Ha!

I guess Ben might be "sport" (didn't go up to the base of the route) but both Willard and the Final Furious Farsi are definitely not. It's twenty feet to the first bolt on Willard, and there's some nasty swing potential on Farsi...not to mention 10-15 foot runout between bolts standard.

Love it.

Getting there. You can see it, but can you get to it?! Good luck! I'd say the best advice I c... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks
By: Chris D When: Mar 2, 2010

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Comments: If you're heading into Wonderland Valley, the trail into the wonderland starts right behind Uncle Willie's Health Food Store. You simply take the trail toward Wall Street Mill (doesn't matter which parking area you use). Just a short distance past the unpaved parking area with an outhouse you'll see a wide trail heading north which is sort of blocked by park service-placed gargoyles. Take this trail to the readily visible ruins called Uncle Willie's Health Food Store.

Just to the east (lef... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Fat Freddie’s Cat : Bookman Pitman (5.6 PG13)
By: Chris D When: Feb 28, 2010

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Comments: This climb might be 5.6 if you spend your climbing days stemming out on steep dihedrals, but if that's not the case, be prepared for an eye-popping surprise. Bartlett's book calls it 5.7 PG in the text, then it's labeled 5.6 on the topo and in the index.

Be a solid 5.7 leader before heading up this short, fun route. That's my tip. The lieback moves that get you up to the crux are fun and pretty easy. You'll find the crack just right for fingers and plenty deep.

Here's a bit of video that a ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Ryan Campground : Headstone Rock : SW Corner (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Feb 26, 2010

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Comments: Got up early and grabbed a couple of kids from the campsite next to me to head over and climb this route last weekend. I'd been eyeballing this route and drooling over it ever since I started climbing (after years of admiring the formation as a non-climber). I offered to lead it, and honestly, was relieved that another in the group wanted to lead it more than I did. Getting to the third bolt is a beautiful Josh runout over super exposure.

Anyway, it was even better than I'd thought it would ... more >>


Location: Blitzo : Flowers : Photo
By: Chris D When: Feb 25, 2010

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Comments: That is a delight.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Outward Bound Slab : Outward Bound Slab Route (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Feb 23, 2010

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Comments: Easy to TR this route by climbing to the anchors via Mastering Five-Two.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Outward Bound Slab : Mastering Five-Two (5.2 R)
By: Chris D When: Feb 23, 2010

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Comments: Vogel's 2006 edition of "Rock Climbing Joshua Tree West" calls it simply "Mastering." Vogel's 1997 "Classic Rock Climbs Joshua Tree National Park" calls it "Mastering Five-Two." Bartlett's 1998 Edition of "The Wonderland Guide" also calls it "Mastering Five-Two." The 1979 edition of Wolfe and Dominick's guide to Joshua Tree NM doesn't include the route at all. Maybe the area hadn't been developed yet.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - North Face : Bonglett, The (5.10a)
By: Chris D When: Feb 17, 2010

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Comments: Best hands for the crux high-step above the horizontal are both to the left.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Mount Rubidoux : Beach Area : Triangle Boulders : Problem B (V-easy)
By: Chris D When: Feb 7, 2010

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Comments: This climb is 5.2 in the old bouldering guide


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Mount Rubidoux : Beach Area : Triangle Boulders : Isosceles (V1+ X)
By: Chris D When: Feb 7, 2010

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Comments: If you're worried about the committing nature of this climb, keep in mind that you can bail off the arete to chimney on your left at almost any point in the climb.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Mount Rubidoux : Beach Area : Triangle Boulders : Problem C (V-easy PG13)
By: Chris D When: Feb 7, 2010

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Comments: I'd call this 5.3, like the guidebook does. Calling it V-anything is sort of deceptive. It's much easier than your average V0. Lots of fun, tho!

An interesting alternative is to skip the lieback and turn around where the climber in the picture is and chimney up the crack to the top. You can treat it as a squeeze chimney or use small face holds with your left foot and make a short off-width excursion out of it.

Even more fun is to climb the face on left side of the right boulder (as in [[... more >>


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Big Rock Area : Main Slab : Wedunett (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Feb 4, 2010

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Comments: I set up a TR on this route and was delighted to find that there are many challenging variations if you eliminate the edges and just give it a go on friction alone. Lots of fun, and just the right length to keep a new climber close enough to shout encouragement and beta.

I was at the gym tonight, and when I suggested to some folks we met that they join us at Big Rock, one of them responded "Big Rock is boooring."

Compared to the gym, Big Rock is as exciting as the circus on acid. Sometimes... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Atlantis Area : Atlantis Wall : ... : Wet Pigeon (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Jan 29, 2010

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Comments: Ha ha! Todd, it's easy for me to downgrade this to 5.7...I can always tell if a lead is harder than 5.7 because I generally fall at least once! :) I actually was thinking of "A Snitch in Time," another "5.8" on Jailhouse Rock in IC as a yardstick. That climb kicked my ass, so if that route is 5.8, Wet Pigeon might be 5.4! I guess it's sort of apples and oranges...

I think all the routes on this wall (at least the ones that I can do) are fun. Amazes me that an area that's so popular today m... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Atlantis Area : Atlantis Wall : ... : Wet Pigeon (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Jan 26, 2010

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Comments: This is an easy climb for 5.8 at Josh. I'd really rate it 5.7 or so, and I don't normally suggest downgrading climbs. Compared to Right Duchess in Indian Cove (5.7) for example, this climb is a breeze. Definitely easier than life's a bitch and then you marry one, or mental physics, both of which go at 5.7.

Still, a lot of fun!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Atlantis Area : Atlantis Wall : ... : Taurus (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Jan 26, 2010

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Comments: Took my first fall on gear near the top of this route (a #.5 camalot in a shallow crack...it held!)

A fun route, much like the other short routes on this wall, but the crack narrows, flares, and becomes shallow at the top. I believe that the crux is just before the last move.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Trashcan Rock : Trashcan Rock - West Face : B-3 (5.3)
By: Chris D When: Jan 23, 2010

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Comments: Ha! Led this as one of my early leads, with a girl I'd taught to belay about 3 hours earlier. Figured I'd be fine in a free solo mindframe at 5.3, even though I'd never climbed the route before...

...welcome to Joshua Tree!

This climb is 5.3...if you climb weird, off-width sloping cracks that try to spit you out the whole way up.

Don't get me wrong; it's low-angle, and at it's hardest shouldn't feel worse than 5.5 or so, but it doesn't go at the level that most 5.3s go at.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Feudal Wall : ... : Duchess Right (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Jan 18, 2010

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Comments: I don't know if this is what 5.7 off-width feels like, as it was one of the first off-widths I've done that's more than one move. It kicked my ass. At the crux, the rock inside the crack is like butter and there's nothing on the face until you make a couple of moves. I fell a number of times seconding this, and am pretty confident leading at Josh on 5.7 crack and face climbs like Mentalphysics and Life's a Bitch. I'd have been in real trouble if I'd tried to lead this one!

Take big gear. O... more >>


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