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Sign near the Third Flatiron


Member Since: Apr 14, 2009
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 250
Total Points: 2,023
Last Year: 176
Last 30 Days: 16
61 Compliments
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All (1069) | Routes (39) | Areas (23) | Photos (226) | Comments (157) | Posts (421) | Stars (176) | Ratings (27)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Rock Garden Valley : Rock Garden Valley - Left S... : Double Dogleg (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Apr 26, 2010

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Comments: Climbed this for the first time yesterday and found it took gear well, primarily cams. The first section of the left-trending part of the crack was definitely the crux for me. Just to add to the discussion of relative difficulty, I found this route more difficult than Double Cross, but then I like to jam, and this route involves extensive use of the face.

What I really like about this route is (unlike many 5.7s in the park, and elsewhere) you really have to be planning ahead for your feet. I... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Ranger Station Rock : Swain In The Breeze (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Apr 26, 2010

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Comments: I think the initial crack up to the ledge would have been easier if I'd liebacked it, but wanted to get good gear, so climbed the awkward off-width with arm bars and foot cams. Some work.

Above the ledge this route somehow reminded me of the SW Corner of Headstone Rock. The hanger-less buttonheads make for good pro when you slide a small nut on them.

Fun route, and a good way to start the day.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Ranger Station Rock : Wall of 10,000 Holds (5.4 R)
By: Chris D When: Apr 26, 2010

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Comments: This is one of those routes at Josh that half will love and the other half will cry about the approach because they have too much tunnel-vision to realize that the approach is part of the climb. This one especially. You scramble through the usual boulder field, then either climb the bottom of 5.6 Swain in the Breeze, 5.8 Ohwhatafooliam, or take a "ramp" to a small ledge with a "sunken garden." We went up Swain, and I don't know where the "ramp" is, but from the ledge, you scoot up a slot on t... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Ranger Station Rock : Owatafooliam (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Apr 25, 2010

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Comments: Man, was I glad I TRed this one instead of leading it. Basically a 50-foot lieback on gravelly, crappy rock that probably wouldn't clean up even if it got climbed more than once a year, which it probably doesn't. The rock is so crumbly that I would be pretty concerned about gear pulling on lead. Your right foot is your best friend, and the only thing you'll be able to bear jamming on this route.

probably a good climb to practice laybacks on...if you do them wrong here, your feet will quickly... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Ranger Station Rock : Bush Crack (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Apr 25, 2010

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Comments: ranger station rock is a nice quiet spot with good moderate climbs. This crack is a lot of fun,and a real treat if you enjoy jamming. Unlike many josh jam cracks, this one actually requires jamming, especially hands, and the hands are good. Short, but really quality and an easy walk-off to the left.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Mount Rubidoux : Island Area : Island Wall : ... : Photo
By: Chris D When: Apr 17, 2010

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Comments: Well, you seemed to be in pretty good shape to me. I'd a been cryin like a little girl.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Dairy Queen Wall : Dairy Queen Wall - Right Si... : Dilly Bar (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Apr 17, 2010

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Comments: This is all manner of fun, and rounds out DQ wall with a mild warm-up to get you started.

It is also 5.5. Looking up at it, I thought "5.5...another fat sandbag!" but was surprised to find nothing on the route much harder than 5.4.

The chimney near the top and the top out are a treat.

All the pro you could want, and then some.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Dairy Queen Wall : Dairy Queen Wall - Right Si... : Bill's Nuts (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Apr 17, 2010

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Comments: Don't waste your time trying to place gear in the flaring cracks at the top. All you'll do is puzzle and pump yourself.

Only an "okay" route compared to some of the quality moderates on DQ wall.

Not sure how the start of this route merits three different variations where the jugs start...?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Dairy Queen Wall : Dairy Queen Wall - Right Si... : Mr. Misty Kiss (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Apr 17, 2010

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Comments: Climbed this fun route today. Agree that it's sustained 5.7, and harder than many 5.7 climbs in the park. If it weren't so close to vertical, it would be 5.7 without all the discussion about it being a sandbag. For comparison, I'd say that though short, this is a harder lead than Double Cross, Mental Physics, or any of the other 5.7's on DQ wall. Not much like Sail Away, but I felt about as insecure leading this route as I did on Sail Away. I am not a strong 5.8 leader (yet!).

It was fun, ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : The Flake (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Apr 6, 2010

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Comments: This climb is great, and one I was glad to be following rather than leading. The chimney at the bottom can be climbed a lot of different ways. Though strenuous, I though it was as much an enjoyable component of the climb as any other part, maybe moreso, if you like problem solving. You don't need to temporarily leave the chimney/off-width at the first big block on the right as some do. There's a spot where I found making a couple of moves facing straight out made life easier.

Another thing I... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Playhouse Rock : Dress Rehearsal (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Mar 22, 2010

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Comments: Fun start like many of the other routes on this wall, but the real treat is the unexpectedly airy crux moves up the crack to the arete at the top of the climb.

Throw a runner over the horn on top of the arete.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Playhouse Rock
By: Chris D When: Mar 22, 2010

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Comments: This formation has an easy, fun downclimb, and a pair of quick-links you can rap off of at the top of The Irritators.

Don't rap directly on the bolt hangers at the top of Psycho Groove. We saw no fewer than three groups use these standard bolt hangers as rap rings today. Have to assume they were sport climbers who haven't ever seen an anchor setup not designed for rappelling. Bad form


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Hidden Tower : Sail Away (5.8-)
By: Chris D When: Mar 22, 2010

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Comments: If, like me, 5.8 is the limit of what you lead, and you've led Mental Physics a couple of times, and come to this route thinking that at 5.8- it can't be much harder than Mental Physics at 5.7+, you're in for a surprise. This was one of the most exciting climbs I've ever done. What a treat!

The polished hand crack is just beautiful. Totally forgiving for people (like me) who are still working on mastering placing nuts. Every move at 5.8 can be well-protected.

If you have big hands (as I ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Playhouse Rock : Final Act (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Mar 22, 2010

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Comments: I love it. 5.4. Well, if the only other 5.4 you ever climbed was The Bong, you'd probably be ready for this one.

Joshua Tree is great. This is a fun climb. The crux is low, and stemming out will get you past it, but it's hard to protect.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Playhouse Rock : Stucca By A Yucca (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Mar 21, 2010

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Comments: I like when people say a route "isn't worth doing." rating a route's quality is one thing. Outright saying it isn't worth doing is pointless.

A route's quality is subjective, to some degree. We found this route to be a lot of fun. Definitely worth doing.


Location: VA : Grayson Highlands State Par... : Contact Station Area : Contact Station Boulders : Periscope Boulder : ... : Photo
By: Chris D When: Mar 20, 2010

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Comments: Wow. That's a lot of padding.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : South Face - Left Side : Left Ski Track (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Mar 17, 2010

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Comments: If you are a new leader this route is exciting as hell. The first pitch is great holds and confident climbing, but pro has to be well-extended to prevent drag and a fall would be, well, bumpy on the highly featured rock.

The second pitch past the step-around is as airy as it gets at the grade and height and is totally exhilarating. Step back out at the belay past the step-around and throw some extra pro in for your second.

For the third pitch we opted to take the flake that runs pretty much ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Nomad Dome : Last Angry Arab (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Mar 15, 2010

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Comments: This is a fun climb, with just a couple of moves at 5.6 and some fun easy climbing in between. I used a couple of off-width moves on lead that I probably didn't need to, but it was all sorts of fun. Despite the crack, don't expect to get more than a jam or three.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Nomad Dome : Final Furious Farsi (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Mar 14, 2010

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Comments: A fun route with some surprisingly burly moves right before it starts back toward the left, and typical long run-out, only with a gritty swing waiting for either the leader or second who manages to fall traversing over to the chains above Willard.

A nice variety of friction, crimps, and jugs.

Typical Josh 5.6... :)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Nomad Dome
By: Chris D When: Mar 14, 2010

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Comments: I like that the general description of this formations says that it offers both "trad and sport."

Ha!

I guess Ben might be "sport" (didn't go up to the base of the route) but both Willard and the Final Furious Farsi are definitely not. It's twenty feet to the first bolt on Willard, and there's some nasty swing potential on Farsi...not to mention 10-15 foot runout between bolts standard.

Love it.

Getting there. You can see it, but can you get to it?! Good luck! I'd say the best advice I c... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks
By: Chris D When: Mar 2, 2010

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Comments: If you're heading into Wonderland Valley, the trail into the wonderland starts right behind Uncle Willie's Health Food Store. You simply take the trail toward Wall Street Mill (doesn't matter which parking area you use). Just a short distance past the unpaved parking area with an outhouse you'll see a wide trail heading north which is sort of blocked by park service-placed gargoyles. Take this trail to the readily visible ruins called Uncle Willie's Health Food Store.

Just to the east (lef... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Fat Freddie’s Cat : Bookman Pitman (5.6 PG13)
By: Chris D When: Feb 28, 2010

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Comments: This climb might be 5.6 if you spend your climbing days stemming out on steep dihedrals, but if that's not the case, be prepared for an eye-popping surprise. Bartlett's book calls it 5.7 PG in the text, then it's labeled 5.6 on the topo and in the index.

Be a solid 5.7 leader before heading up this short, fun route. That's my tip. The lieback moves that get you up to the crux are fun and pretty easy. You'll find the crack just right for fingers and plenty deep.

Here's a bit of video that a ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Ryan Campground : Headstone Rock : SW Corner (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Feb 26, 2010

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Comments: Got up early and grabbed a couple of kids from the campsite next to me to head over and climb this route last weekend. I'd been eyeballing this route and drooling over it ever since I started climbing (after years of admiring the formation as a non-climber). I offered to lead it, and honestly, was relieved that another in the group wanted to lead it more than I did. Getting to the third bolt is a beautiful Josh runout over super exposure.

Anyway, it was even better than I'd thought it would ... more >>


Location: Blitzo : Flowers : Photo
By: Chris D When: Feb 25, 2010

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Comments: That is a delight.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Outward Bound Slab : Outward Bound Slab Route (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Feb 23, 2010

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Comments: Easy to TR this route by climbing to the anchors via Mastering Five-Two.


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