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Sign near the Third Flatiron


Member Since: Apr 14, 2009
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 247
Total Points: 2,198
Last Year: 240
Last 30 Days: 0
66 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Chris D been climbing?










Contributions


All 1154 | Routes 42 | Areas 25 | Photos 246 | Page Improvements | Comments 173 | Posts 451 | Stars 187 | Ratings 30
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Inland Empire : Big Rock Area : Main Slab : The Trough (5.5)
By: Chris D When: Dec 18, 2011

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Comments: If you can lead 5.5, you can lead this route. This route is easy. Don't believe all the nonsense here up-rating this fun beginner route.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Surrealistic Pillar (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Oct 23, 2011

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Comments: Supertopo (and some here) suggest a 4" or larger piece for this route. I'd say you might want one if you're going straight up the corner on P2, otherwise, anything larger than a #3 camalot is overkill.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Bear Island : Polar Bears in Bondage (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Oct 23, 2011

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Comments: If you want to take the "PG" out of leading this route or Ursa Major, you can simply start in the crack on Polar Bears and when that peters out, move into the crack on Ursa Major. The routes are so close you wouldn't even need to extend your gear.

Both worthwhile routes with some thoughtful moves at the grade. The business is all down low.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Mustang Ranch
By: Chris D When: Oct 23, 2011

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Comments: There's a couple of big glue-in eye bolts near the top of Pahrump that can be used to rap off the top of the west (higher) formation to the east, but be prepared to work your ass off to get your rope back after rapping...lots of friction on the gob of choss up top that you rap off of.

Didn't look too hard for a downclimb, but next time I think I'll look a little harder.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Mustang Ranch : The Chicken Ranch (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Oct 23, 2011

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Comments: Surprisingly steep start for 5.6, this route is worth doing if only for the "ah ha!" of finding a few key holds that make it 5.6 instead of 7 or 8. Grainy rock that gets more crumbly as you go up.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Mustang Ranch : Pahrump (5.4)
By: Chris D When: Oct 23, 2011

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Comments: Kind of fun, since there's a short section of good moves, but there is actually a lot of loose rock on the route, so keep an eye out for that when you go to pull out instead of down.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Otto's Route (5.8+) : Photo
By: Chris D When: Oct 21, 2011

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Comments: My guess would be that Christ floated the crux?


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Indian Wells Canyon : Owens Ridge : Owens Ridge North Face : ... : El Centro (5.5 R)
By: Chris D When: Oct 17, 2011

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Comments: My pleasure!


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Western Farm Service (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Oct 16, 2011

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Comments: "This route is pretty lame. It's like face climbing with a crack for protection."

Right, sort of like that other lame climb, "The Line" at Lovers Leap.

This isn't The Line, but I'm just saying, that's no criteria by which to be dismissive of a route's quality. It's a short, tricky, decent route.

I don't know about the "death block." It would take more force than a single climber could provide to dislodge it.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Angel's Fright (5.5)
By: Chris D When: Oct 16, 2011

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Comments: The chimney is hard if you don't use the crack inside the chimney and the couple of chockstones. In that case, it's probably more of a 5.6 or 7 off-width, but if you use everything available to you, it's not hard, and easily protected.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : Corrugation Corner (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Oct 16, 2011

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Comments: I expected this route to be the highlight of our long weekend at (and my first visit to) the Leap.

I finished the route knowing it was one of the very best climbs I've ever done. If you're not grinning ear to ear on this thing from start to finish, you may as well hang it up. There aren't enough superlatives to describe how awesome this climb is. Suffice it to say that every pitch is 5-stars. Nearly every move on every pitch is five-stars for that matter.

On a beautiful 70 degree fall weekd... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : East Crack (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Oct 16, 2011

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Comments: We were going to end out long weekend at the Leap by getting on Bears Reach or Haystack, then had a good conversation with a nice couple over some beverages at Strawberry Lodge the night before. The guy (sorry dude, didn't get your name) told us to do East Crack instead. Said it was better than both.

The first pitch was great. Supertopo calls it 5.6 with a 5.7 bulge (which looks a lot more like a roof than a bulge). In reality, the moves were quality all the way up to the roof, in the 5.7 r... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Eichorn's Pinnacle : North Face (5.4)
By: Chris D When: Sep 26, 2011

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Comments: I disagree entirely that the climbing is uninteresting. I suppose if it were a route at some junky local crag, I'd maybe agree?

Not only is the climbing quite thoughtful for the grade, it's on quality rock that is quite different from the rock you just climbed on Cathedral. Since you can't preview the route from the approach (it's around the "backside" of the pinnacle) it's a series of small surprises from the end of the traverse all the way to the summit. Even the traverse is fun, taking yo... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Tenaya Peak : Northwest Buttress (5.3)
By: Chris D When: Sep 19, 2011

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Comments: Don't bother with the topo; it makes no sense (you don't need it, either) and don't expect the fifth class climbing that Supertopo purports you will enjoy on every pitch. The gear recommendations in Supertopo include at least twice as much gear as you should need. We did this in 9 rope-stretching pitches and on a number of pitches placed no gear at all. Maybe two sections of fifth class, no more than 25 feet long. Lots of slab-walking, no hands required. The few sections of fifth... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Cathedral Peak : Southeast Buttress (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Sep 19, 2011

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Comments: With all the hype I'd read about this route I was pleasantly surprised to find that it surpassed all of my expectations. From the surprise splitter crack on the first pitch to the fun and easy chimney to the unbelievable summit panorama, this route is truly full-value. There's a lot of steep gully hiking, but it's broken up by a variety of climbing challenges, albeit solidly within the reach of any 5.6 leader with some route-finding skills. There might be one short section of face climbing th... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Jensen's Jaunt (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Sep 5, 2011

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Comments: Took a number 5 camalot with me on this one today, sort of as a joke. By the time I was ready to lead out the fourth, normally easy, pitch, it was pouring rain and windy. Not only was I able to use the #5 at the belay at the top of P2, but it was a real comfort to have it to stuff under the dihedral that is most of P4. Without it, it would have probably been much more tense, as water was running down the slab and pouring off the dihedral in little trickles and waterfalls.

So if you do... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : The Long Climb (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Sep 3, 2011

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Comments: I think that the above description for the belay above the downward-pointing flake (looks more like a wedge of cheese than a flake) is off a bit. If you climb it according to Vogel's guide, after you pass the flake on the left, then go up the short corner, traverse right a little then climb an "easy crack" which is obvious, splitting steep broken rock and ending in a V-notch that can be seen from the belay at the start of the pitch. I'd guess it's at least 40 feet above the downward flake, may... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Angel's Fright (5.5)
By: Chris D When: Aug 26, 2011

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Comments: On the last pitch, you can almost eliminate rope drag by saving a couple of long runners for the gear you place just before you get into the left-trending crack that leads out under the slab with the bolt.

You don't need to extend all your gear...As you leave lunch ledge, wander as you see fit, but reserve gear placements for spots where you're directly above the belay. Extend a couple of pieces near the spot where you head out left as mentioned above, then put in one extended piece as you wal... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : ... : Photo
By: Chris D When: Jul 26, 2011

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Comments: Learn from my mistake and get as much gear off your harness as you can before launching onto this lead. Ha! Take your camera out of your pants pocket, too. Man, that was awkward!


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Gold Standard (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Jul 10, 2011

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Comments: Getting from the first wall to the second will be the crux for anyone in your party who isn't particularly tall. More than one way to do it, but new climbers will mostly only see the most obvious way, which is reachy. What a fun climb!


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Tree Route (5.6) : Photo
By: Chris D When: Jun 8, 2011

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Comments: Holy CRACK! That's Beautiful!!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Unreported Rock : Photo
By: Chris D When: Jun 7, 2011

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Comments: Thanks! A fun, quiet area to climb...


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : East Face North Side/Seal R... (5.4)
By: Chris D When: Jun 5, 2011

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Comments: Climbed this route yesterday. Great little adventure with a couple of quality sections of climbing and an awesome summit.

The idea that it is difficult to find/build adequate anchors anywhere on this route could only come from someone who planned poorly. With a 60m rope, the pitches described below leave between ten and thirty feet of rope between belays.

Here's how we climbed it:

P1: The first pitch begins after a short scramble up and to the left about fifteen feet from where the easy-to... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - West Face : Double Cross (5.7+)
By: Chris D When: May 25, 2011

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Comments: I was out there this past Saturday, and what I can't figure out is why they bolted the direct start instead of the normal start that goes out to the right a little.

Must have been some out-of-towners... Somebody should probably chop these bolts.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Big Rock Area
By: Chris D When: Apr 18, 2011

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Comments: Big Rock is not closed yet, so get your licks in while you can! Was out there yesterday, and even on an 80 degree day, there's a little breeze to keep it nice, and not too greasy.

Also, there is a raven's nest (with chicks in it at the moment) about three feet from the start of Let It Bleed. You can scratch any plans you had to do that route, or the routes on either side of it until the nest is gone. The parents are aggressive.


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