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Sign near the Third Flatiron


Member Since: Apr 14, 2009
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact Chris D


Point Rank: # 250
Total Points: 2,023
Last Year: 176
Last 30 Days: 16
61 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
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Contributions


All (1069) | Routes (39) | Areas (23) | Photos (226) | Comments (157) | Posts (421) | Stars (176) | Ratings (27)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Playhouse Rock : The Playwright (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Feb 6, 2012

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Comments: About 10 feet of business about 40 feet up, the rest is a cruise. Fun route. Good warm-up if the rest of the wall's 6's are occupied. First route in the shade as the day progresses.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Outer Mongolia : Siberia : Irish Toothache (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Feb 6, 2012

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Comments: A fun route, and well-bolted. From the top of this route you can make an easy but grainy and poorly-protected traverse to the right around a corner to the anchors for Glen's Crack and Jack. From those anchors, you can rap down to the anchors for Old Hornington and The Bazooka. Unlike Irish Toothache, the pro is sparse on these routes.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Hidden Falls Wall : 5.8 sport route (5.7+)
By: Chris D When: Feb 3, 2012

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Comments: I was going to visit this area, but when I heard that this classic had been chopped, I wrote the to ASCA to see if they would fund replacement of the bolts, then vowed to never visit until the bolts were back. Word is this is the sleeper route in Red Rock...destined to be the next Levitation 29.


Location: General Climbing : Aid to Free Progression The... : Post : Photo
By: Chris D When: Feb 3, 2012

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Comments: Oh man, this is some good shit!

Perhaps the funniest, yet most poignant thing I've ever seen on this site.


Location: David A : Me : Photo
By: Chris D When: Feb 1, 2012

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Comments: The very definition of "ready."


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Lewd, Crude, and Misconstru... (5.9+)
By: Chris D When: Jan 16, 2012

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Comments: The start would seem lame if you couldn't do it.

If you primarily climb trad, this will be one of your favorite routes in the corridor. I thought it was spectacular. Most fun I've ever had on a sport route, but that's because the tricky stemming required to pass the low crux wasn't just another jug haul. I can definitely see where sport climbers would hate this. Not many climbing gyms prepare you for the opening moves. Reasonably well protected and fun!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Feltonian Physics (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Jan 3, 2012

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Comments: If he was referring to the final moves between the two boulders at the top, Woody's comment that the overhang at the top is 5.4 is complete bullshit.

Never met Woody (RIP), but I've read enough objective opinions about the guy to guess he was something of a nut. I love his many contributions and comments on MP. Always a treat to stumble on one here. Take them with a grain of salt.

After you place a cam to protect the final moves, slot a nut or hex above the cam. Otherwise, your rope will s... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : White Lightning (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Jan 3, 2012

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Comments: Greasy at the crux.

Get pro before starting into the fist crack about twenty feet up to avoid hitting the block that the climb starts off of if you blow it. A #3 Camalot is perfect.

The hardest moves on this route are every bit as hard as the moves on 5.8 cracks in other areas. Whatever. Joshua Tree.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Poodle in Shining Armor (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Jan 3, 2012

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Comments: Don't tell anyone, but this route is a lot of fun! Varied climbing over flakes and plates along the periphery of a trough leads to an step out to the left onto a pretty wildly exposed face, a great summit, and a spicy downclimb. Joshua Tree gear; take it for what it's worth.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Big Rock Area : Main Slab : The Trough (5.5)
By: Chris D When: Dec 18, 2011

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Comments: If you can lead 5.5, you can lead this route. This route is easy. Don't believe all the nonsense here up-rating this fun beginner route.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Surrealistic Pillar (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Oct 23, 2011

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Comments: Supertopo (and some here) suggest a 4" or larger piece for this route. I'd say you might want one if you're going straight up the corner on P2, otherwise, anything larger than a #3 camalot is overkill.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Bear Island : Polar Bears in Bondage (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Oct 23, 2011

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Comments: If you want to take the "PG" out of leading this route or Ursa Major, you can simply start in the crack on Polar Bears and when that peters out, move into the crack on Ursa Major. The routes are so close you wouldn't even need to extend your gear.

Both worthwhile routes with some thoughtful moves at the grade. The business is all down low.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Mustang Ranch
By: Chris D When: Oct 23, 2011

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Comments: There's a couple of big glue-in eye bolts near the top of Pahrump that can be used to rap off the top of the west (higher) formation to the east, but be prepared to work your ass off to get your rope back after rapping...lots of friction on the gob of choss up top that you rap off of.

Didn't look too hard for a downclimb, but next time I think I'll look a little harder.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Mustang Ranch : The Chicken Ranch (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Oct 23, 2011

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Comments: Surprisingly steep start for 5.6, this route is worth doing if only for the "ah ha!" of finding a few key holds that make it 5.6 instead of 7 or 8. Grainy rock that gets more crumbly as you go up.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Mustang Ranch : Pahrump (5.4)
By: Chris D When: Oct 23, 2011

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Comments: Kind of fun, since there's a short section of good moves, but there is actually a lot of loose rock on the route, so keep an eye out for that when you go to pull out instead of down.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Otto's Route (5.8+) : Photo
By: Chris D When: Oct 21, 2011

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Comments: My guess would be that Christ floated the crux?


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Indian Wells Canyon : Owens Ridge : Owens Ridge North Face : ... : El Centro (5.5 R)
By: Chris D When: Oct 17, 2011

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Comments: My pleasure!


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : Central Pinnacles : Coyote Crag : Western Farm Service (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Oct 16, 2011

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Comments: "This route is pretty lame. It's like face climbing with a crack for protection."

Right, sort of like that other lame climb, "The Line" at Lovers Leap.

This isn't The Line, but I'm just saying, that's no criteria by which to be dismissive of a route's quality. It's a short, tricky, decent route.

I don't know about the "death block." It would take more force than a single climber could provide to dislodge it.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Angel's Fright (5.5)
By: Chris D When: Oct 16, 2011

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Comments: The chimney is hard if you don't use the crack inside the chimney and the couple of chockstones. In that case, it's probably more of a 5.6 or 7 off-width, but if you use everything available to you, it's not hard, and easily protected.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : Corrugation Corner (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Oct 16, 2011

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Comments: I expected this route to be the highlight of our long weekend at (and my first visit to) the Leap.

I finished the route knowing it was one of the very best climbs I've ever done. If you're not grinning ear to ear on this thing from start to finish, you may as well hang it up. There aren't enough superlatives to describe how awesome this climb is. Suffice it to say that every pitch is 5-stars. Nearly every move on every pitch is five-stars for that matter.

On a beautiful 70 degree fall weekd... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : East Crack (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Oct 16, 2011

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Comments: We were going to end out long weekend at the Leap by getting on Bears Reach or Haystack, then had a good conversation with a nice couple over some beverages at Strawberry Lodge the night before. The guy (sorry dude, didn't get your name) told us to do East Crack instead. Said it was better than both.

The first pitch was great. Supertopo calls it 5.6 with a 5.7 bulge (which looks a lot more like a roof than a bulge). In reality, the moves were quality all the way up to the roof, in the 5.7 r... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Eichorn's Pinnacle : North Face (5.4)
By: Chris D When: Sep 26, 2011

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Comments: I disagree entirely that the climbing is uninteresting. I suppose if it were a route at some junky local crag, I'd maybe agree?

Not only is the climbing quite thoughtful for the grade, it's on quality rock that is quite different from the rock you just climbed on Cathedral. Since you can't preview the route from the approach (it's around the "backside" of the pinnacle) it's a series of small surprises from the end of the traverse all the way to the summit. Even the traverse is fun, taking yo... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Tenaya Peak : Northwest Buttress (5.3)
By: Chris D When: Sep 19, 2011

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Comments: Don't bother with the topo; it makes no sense (you don't need it, either) and don't expect the fifth class climbing that Supertopo purports you will enjoy on every pitch. The gear recommendations in Supertopo include at least twice as much gear as you should need. We did this in 9 rope-stretching pitches and on a number of pitches placed no gear at all. Maybe two sections of fifth class, no more than 25 feet long. Lots of slab-walking, no hands required. The few sections of fifth... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Peak : Southeast Buttress (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Sep 19, 2011

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Comments: With all the hype I'd read about this route I was pleasantly surprised to find that it surpassed all of my expectations. From the surprise splitter crack on the first pitch to the fun and easy chimney to the unbelievable summit panorama, this route is truly full-value. There's a lot of steep gully hiking, but it's broken up by a variety of climbing challenges, albeit solidly within the reach of any 5.6 leader with some route-finding skills. There might be one short section of face climbing th... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Jensen's Jaunt (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Sep 5, 2011

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Comments: Took a number 5 camalot with me on this one today, sort of as a joke. By the time I was ready to lead out the fourth, normally easy, pitch, it was pouring rain and windy. Not only was I able to use the #5 at the belay at the top of P2, but it was a real comfort to have it to stuff under the dihedral that is most of P4. Without it, it would have probably been much more tense, as water was running down the slab and pouring off the dihedral in little trickles and waterfalls.

So if you do... more >>


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