Comments: I'm not even high, and I cannot for the life of me figure out what the hell is what on this wall, but I was up there this and last weekend and climbed everything that went under .10 and found it to be an enjoyable wall to get a bunch of climbing in. Bolts and rap rings all over.
Comments: There are bolts that run up the little gully to the right of this route, but I believe they are for another route not included here or in guidebooks. There's a line of chalked holds that follow the bolt line. Cotton Mouth (as described here) is left of the bolts.
Comments: Couple of thoughts on this route, which was great fun!
1. On P4, there is a way to get around all obstacles at no more than 5.6 or easy 7. From the belay you go up a knobby ramp to an obvious horizontal crack/ledge that you traverse on above the roof by the belay. Tons of chalk on the face below the roof from people who either didn't figure this out or were looking for the hard way up. Last weekend, there was an old fixed cam with some tatty nylon at the start of the roof further up (the one... more >>
Comments: Climbed this on toprope today for a fun diversion from the sport routes around it. I can see where somebody would call the bottom section 5.7, if you were cool with climbing funky, steep, flaring chimneys with bad pro (unless maybe you have a set of big hexes). But this is going to be a shocker for anyone who is at Holcomb expecting 5.7.
The top section is more like what Holcomb has to offer in general, but still, not really. If you're okay with hand and fist jamming, this section of overh... more >>
Comments: A few thoughts after my first visit to Smith Rock; a full week of easy and moderate climbing sport and trad.
1. Despite what people say about the plentiful trad routes here, the place really is the domain of hard sport climbers. There are a few fun easy trad routes, but this is not a "destination crag" for easy and moderate trad single/multi-pitch. The basalt rimrock we'd hoped would yield a lot of fun short easy and moderate crack climbs looked like it hadn't been visited since 198... more >>
Comments: Our first stop on our first visit to Smith Rock. Judging from the sand and grit in the cracks and the lack of chalk on even the higher rated climbs, this area has fallen into neglect. The couple of routes that we did showed no sign of having been climbed in a long time, though some of the footholds had the glassy polish that only comes from years of regular ascents. Worth a stop just to check out the very high quality of the basalt and climb some cracks.
Comments: Expect this to keep your attention with lots of moves at the grade if you're at your leading limit. Improbably steep climbing for 5.6, something great on every pitch, and a very "alpine-like" feel, especially the first pitch. Views from the top are spectacular. Bring big gear.
Comments: This place is shady until late in the morning, some routes stay shady past noon.
There's some good fixed gear here and old school stuff that I don't know if I'd trust (read homemade angle-iron bolt hangers). There's also some single bolt anchors that look to be intended for TRing and rapping from. Less than ideal.
Comments: Awesome ridge, and for all the talk, the approach isn't as big a deal as you'd assume. The majority of the ridge from the top of the south headwall to the south summit is pretty much an incredible walk interrupted with some easy 4th class moves. The ridge was mobbed (on a beautiful June Saturday), but it was very easy to pass slow parties.
I have to kind of laugh at all the "I can't imagine why anyone would rap off the North Summit instead of doing the whole ridge" stuff. Strength? Stamina? T... more >>
Comments: Thanks Ken! I assume you meant "right" not "left" in your first sentence. Surprised I'd never read/heard that there was a reasonably direct way to avoid the crux of the pitch. It will be fun to get back there in the spring and have a go at the correct route up the first pitch.
The way we went on P1 (in the photo in my previous post) included good pro, a lot of underclings, and reasonably secure feet on wide-ish stems. Pretty sure there was nothing harder than .9, since I didn't fall.
Comments: I don't think we were on Edgehogs...here's a photo of Joe just getting ready to head into the crux of P1.
Angled left along a bunch of awesome underclings to a thin crack where the deep dihedral begins. Were we on route? The hardest part of the pitch was the few feet below the bolted anchor, which i guess is actually the end of edgehogs P1, not P1 Whodunit?
Comments: Just got on this for the first time today. Wow. What a fantastic climb! Everything you could want at Tahquitz; fantastic cracks, a top out on the absolute true summit of the rock, chimneys, easy offwidths, one of the longest routes on the rock, great belays ledges, and lots of sustained climbing.
Not sure what all the talk is about the crux being on the first pitch. The first pitch, except for a couple of thin moves around the fixed pin near the edgehogs anchors, is not that bad,... more >>