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Sign near the Third Flatiron


Member Since: Apr 14, 2009
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 252
Total Points: 2,198
Last Year: 240
Last 30 Days: 0
68 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Chris D been climbing?










Contributions


All 1154 | Routes 42 | Areas 25 | Photos 246 | Page Improvements | Comments 173 | Posts 451 | Stars 187 | Ratings 30
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Fingertrip (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Feb 13, 2014

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Comments: @Yosemitesam, The "beautiful .75 camalot sized hand crack" that you got "suckered" into is actually the original "correct" route to take at the top of the first pitch, so don't feel too bad.

From the old Chuck Wilts guide:

"Where progress to the tree is blocked, ascend a narrow crack which leads diagonally up and left on the smooth face. Traverse back to the fir tree ledge."

This option is actually easier than 5.7.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Isles in the Sky : Nectar (5.4) : Photo
By: Chris D When: Feb 12, 2014

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Comments: This is the tiniest solo EVER.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Feudal Wall : ... : The Mikado (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Feb 2, 2014

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Comments: Curiously, there are multiple 5.7 moves on this steep 5.6, which manages to be both greasy and grainy at the same time. A lot of fun, and plenty of pro.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Indian Palisades Corridor : Toe the Line (5.9)
By: Chris D When: Feb 2, 2014

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Comments: Great pro in the crack up top, not much below it, but that climbing is really easy. There might be one move of .8 in the crack, nothing that I can imagine anyone would seriously call 5.9.

La Reina, 5.9, is a couple hundred feet away and is in a completely different league of difficulty that this thing.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Indian Palisades Corridor
By: Chris D When: Feb 2, 2014

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Comments: I'm not even high, and I cannot for the life of me figure out what the hell is what on this wall, but I was up there this and last weekend and climbed everything that went under .10 and found it to be an enjoyable wall to get a bunch of climbing in. Bolts and rap rings all over.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Indian Palisades Corridor : Cotton Mouth (5.6 X)
By: Chris D When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: There are bolts that run up the little gully to the right of this route, but I believe they are for another route not included here or in guidebooks. There's a line of chalked holds that follow the bolt line. Cotton Mouth (as described here) is left of the bolts.

Lots of routes crammed on this face...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Indian Palisades Corridor : Willit Slab (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: 5 bolts to an anchor with rap rings. Incredibly grippy rock makes this relatively low angle friction slab 5.6 or 5.7 instead of the harder climb it would be on smoother rock.

The skidder you'd take from just below the second bolt would get you about 15-20 feet to the deck, so be mindful.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : Central Pinnacles
By: Chris D When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: Ryan,

You should climb then down-climb each route twice. Then they will seem long. Soon, an El Cap Day will be in the bag.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Frogland (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: Couple of thoughts on this route, which was great fun!

1. On P4, there is a way to get around all obstacles at no more than 5.6 or easy 7. From the belay you go up a knobby ramp to an obvious horizontal crack/ledge that you traverse on above the roof by the belay. Tons of chalk on the face below the roof from people who either didn't figure this out or were looking for the hard way up. Last weekend, there was an old fixed cam with some tatty nylon at the start of the roof further up (the one... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: Chris D When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: Everything everyone says about this route is totally true.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Green Goblin (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Sep 29, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this on toprope today for a fun diversion from the sport routes around it. I can see where somebody would call the bottom section 5.7, if you were cool with climbing funky, steep, flaring chimneys with bad pro (unless maybe you have a set of big hexes). But this is going to be a shocker for anyone who is at Holcomb expecting 5.7.

The top section is more like what Holcomb has to offer in general, but still, not really. If you're okay with hand and fist jamming, this section of overh... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock
By: Chris D When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: A few thoughts after my first visit to Smith Rock; a full week of easy and moderate climbing sport and trad.

1. Despite what people say about the plentiful trad routes here, the place really is the domain of hard sport climbers. There are a few fun easy trad routes, but this is not a "destination crag" for easy and moderate trad single/multi-pitch. The basalt rimrock we'd hoped would yield a lot of fun short easy and moderate crack climbs looked like it hadn't been visited since 198... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Ryan Campground : Headstone Rock : ... : Photo
By: Chris D When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: These are not the anchors for Cryptic. These are the rap anchors for all routes on the Headstone (rap the north face), and the anchors that people use at the top of the SW Corner.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Ryan Campground : Headstone Rock : ... : Photo
By: Chris D When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: These are the anchors at the top of Cryptic. The rap anchors (and chains) are just west of these spinners. You don't want to rap off of these, but you can toprope Cryptic from them.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Red Wall : Chouinard's Crack (1st Half... (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Sep 15, 2013

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Comments: Polished!

What a fun climb. The business is over after just a couple of jams off the blocks as plentiful and solid holds present themselves on the left face. Great little climb, but over too soon.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Basalt Rimrock : Student Wall
By: Chris D When: Sep 12, 2013

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Comments: Our first stop on our first visit to Smith Rock. Judging from the sand and grit in the cracks and the lack of chalk on even the higher rated climbs, this area has fallen into neglect. The couple of routes that we did showed no sign of having been climbed in a long time, though some of the footholds had the glassy polish that only comes from years of regular ascents. Worth a stop just to check out the very high quality of the basalt and climb some cracks.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Red Wall : Moscow (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Sep 12, 2013

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Comments: Expect this to keep your attention with lots of moves at the grade if you're at your leading limit. Improbably steep climbing for 5.6, something great on every pitch, and a very "alpine-like" feel, especially the first pitch. Views from the top are spectacular. Bring big gear.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Basalt Rimrock : Student Wall : The Textbooks
By: Chris D When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: This place is shady until late in the morning, some routes stay shady past noon.

There's some good fixed gear here and old school stuff that I don't know if I'd trust (read homemade angle-iron bolt hangers). There's also some single bolt anchors that look to be intended for TRing and rapping from. Less than ideal.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Basalt Rimrock : Student Wall : ... : Heart Throb (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: NOTE: The 5.7 climbing ends at the bolt below the roof. You can lower from here, but you'll be lowering and rapping from a single bolt at some point. There's also a fixed pin above the bolt.

Not sure if anyone's finished the route lately, but the stuff above the little traverse to the left of the roof is way harder than 5.7, even old school 5.7.

The crack is okay, I guess, but nothing you'd want to hike in just to do. It's very short.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Matthes Crest : Matthes Crest Traverse - So... (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: Awesome ridge, and for all the talk, the approach isn't as big a deal as you'd assume. The majority of the ridge from the top of the south headwall to the south summit is pretty much an incredible walk interrupted with some easy 4th class moves. The ridge was mobbed (on a beautiful June Saturday), but it was very easy to pass slow parties.

I have to kind of laugh at all the "I can't imagine why anyone would rap off the North Summit instead of doing the whole ridge" stuff. Strength? Stamina? T... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Church Domes : Photo
By: Chris D When: Jun 15, 2013

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Comments: Thanks Guy.

I spent a couple of days up at the crags with my dogs and a copy of the old Moser guide and correlated the photos in the book with specific features/routes...so I hope I got it right on this map.

I posted some photos from that trip here in a collection of sets of Flickr.

A beautiful and quiet place with some fantastic rock.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : Whodunit (5.9)
By: Chris D When: Jan 4, 2013

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Comments: Thanks Ken! I assume you meant "right" not "left" in your first sentence. Surprised I'd never read/heard that there was a reasonably direct way to avoid the crux of the pitch. It will be fun to get back there in the spring and have a go at the correct route up the first pitch.

The way we went on P1 (in the photo in my previous post) included good pro, a lot of underclings, and reasonably secure feet on wide-ish stems. Pretty sure there was nothing harder than .9, since I didn't fall.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Buzzard Perch : Terror of Tiny Town (5.11a/b)
By: Chris D When: Oct 8, 2012

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Comments: "An evil gunslinging midget comes to terrorize the good little people of Tiny Town. The townspeople organize to defeat him, and zany antics ensue..."





Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : Whodunit (5.9)
By: Chris D When: Sep 30, 2012

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Comments: I don't think we were on Edgehogs...here's a photo of Joe just getting ready to head into the crux of P1.



Angled left along a bunch of awesome underclings to a thin crack where the deep dihedral begins. Were we on route? The hardest part of the pitch was the few feet below the bolted anchor, which i guess is actually the end of edgehogs P1, not P1 Whodunit?


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : Whodunit (5.9)
By: Chris D When: Sep 29, 2012

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Comments: Just got on this for the first time today. Wow. What a fantastic climb! Everything you could want at Tahquitz; fantastic cracks, a top out on the absolute true summit of the rock, chimneys, easy offwidths, one of the longest routes on the rock, great belays ledges, and lots of sustained climbing.

Not sure what all the talk is about the crux being on the first pitch. The first pitch, except for a couple of thin moves around the fixed pin near the edgehogs anchors, is not that bad,... more >>


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