Comments: Expect this to keep your attention with lots of moves at the grade if you're at your leading limit. Improbably steep climbing for 5.6, something great on every pitch, and a very "alpine-like" feel, especially the first pitch. Views from the top are spectacular. Bring big gear.
Comments: This place is shady until late in the morning, some routes stay shady past noon.
There's some good fixed gear here and old school stuff that I don't know if I'd trust (read homemade angle-iron bolt hangers). There's also some single bolt anchors that look to be intended for TRing and rapping from. Less than ideal.
Comments: Awesome ridge, and for all the talk, the approach isn't as big a deal as you'd assume. The majority of the ridge from the top of the south headwall to the south summit is pretty much an incredible walk interrupted with some easy 4th class moves. The ridge was mobbed (on a beautiful June Saturday), but it was very easy to pass slow parties.
I have to kind of laugh at all the "I can't imagine why anyone would rap off the North Summit instead of doing the whole ridge" stuff. Strength? Stamina? T... more >>
Comments: Thanks Ken! I assume you meant "right" not "left" in your first sentence. Surprised I'd never read/heard that there was a reasonably direct way to avoid the crux of the pitch. It will be fun to get back there in the spring and have a go at the correct route up the first pitch.
The way we went on P1 (in the photo in my previous post) included good pro, a lot of underclings, and reasonably secure feet on wide-ish stems. Pretty sure there was nothing harder than .9, since I didn't fall.
Comments: I don't think we were on Edgehogs...here's a photo of Joe just getting ready to head into the crux of P1.
Angled left along a bunch of awesome underclings to a thin crack where the deep dihedral begins. Were we on route? The hardest part of the pitch was the few feet below the bolted anchor, which i guess is actually the end of edgehogs P1, not P1 Whodunit?
Comments: Just got on this for the first time today. Wow. What a fantastic climb! Everything you could want at Tahquitz; fantastic cracks, a top out on the absolute true summit of the rock, chimneys, easy offwidths, one of the longest routes on the rock, great belays ledges, and lots of sustained climbing.
Not sure what all the talk is about the crux being on the first pitch. The first pitch, except for a couple of thin moves around the fixed pin near the edgehogs anchors, is not that bad,... more >>
Comments: 21 hours on the move. This is a complex ridge, and much of the fun and adventure is not being able to see what's around the next corner and not really knowing where the hell you are. The going is reasonably easy if you're smart about your route choices. You can pretty easily keep it interesting and under 5.6 for pretty much the entire route if you're careful. Still, there's plenty of trip reports out there from people with experience who ended up having an epic on this ridge. YMMV.
It's a spectacular position, and the rock is outstanding. The views are mind-boggling, and the climbing is quality; it's just not very hard.
P1 was some sustained easy fifth, then the rest of the climb was 4th and 3rd interspersed with fun, casual low-fifth class moves. All of the harder moves are easy to protect and a fall would usually land you on a big ledge.
The "5.7, poor pro" face climbing at the start of P3 that everyone gets excited about is good, but the c... more >>
Comments: Got back on this on second yesterday after whipping on it on lead a couple of years ago. BURLY.
This is not for the "modern" 5.8 leader, unless that person spends a lot of time honing their lieback skills. The crux is a mandatory lieback to a splitter hand crack. That lieback is steep, maybe fifteen feet, there's no gear, and if you came off you'd get banged up bad if you failed to avoid the little ledge you preview the crux from.
Not sure what to rate this, since it really needs to be though... more >>
Comments: Chris: Yes, there's climbers on The Price of Fear and at least three or four other routes that you can see in the "giant mosaic photo" that I link to in the post above. Kinda neat.
I see a lot of people miss the "doubtful corner" (middle of what I show as the fourth pitch in the topo above) on this route by going straight up, and it's a shame. The exposure on the move where you step out onto the tree is tremendous for the grade.
Comments: What a fun, fun, route! The first pitch was fun and felt like 5.7. There's so many holds (and so little chalk) that you could have trouble finding the easiest holds and maybe commit to something that felt 5.8 (?)but with care it's a solid 7.
The third pitch is long and fun! Just a blast. Big holds, low-angle rock, two nice parallel splitters for cams, stuff to sling, what a romp. Send your budding trad leader up this one for a confidence builder, then finish the route unroped if you feel se... more >>
Comments: Handren must have been confused when he gave three stars to Neon Sunset and only one to this route. I think he meant to do it the other way around. This is a much better route, though the finish is odd for a sport route.
Also, if this is 5.9+, then the 5.9+ routes in the Black Corridor are 11a. No single move harder than 5.8.
Comments: Louie Anderson has put together an updated guide to the Quarry that is a quality sewn-binding paperback with glossy pages, tons of great color photos, a logical sequence to the route listings, and occasional individual route histories. There's even a brief history of early development written by Mark Smith (of WOS fame).
It's good to see guidebooks like these, that are so well put together that they're fun to read, even if you're not looking for beta for a specific route. My only concern is ... more >>
Comments: There's about one good pro placement on the whole route. Combine that with occasionally questionable and grainy rock and you might want to think twice about leading this thing whatever grade you're competent at.
Can be toproped by gaining the anchor after leading Felix.