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Sign near the Third Flatiron


Member Since: Apr 14, 2009
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact Chris D


Point Rank: # 250
Total Points: 2,023
Last Year: 176
Last 30 Days: 16
61 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
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Contributions


All (1069) | Routes (39) | Areas (23) | Photos (226) | Comments (157) | Posts (421) | Stars (176) | Ratings (27)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Sheep Pass CG Area : Campsite Area (Campsite 3) : Tiny Dancer (5.6)
By: Chris D When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Pretty awkward couple of moves for 5.6.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Sheep Pass CG Area : Campsite Area (Campsite 3) : Tiny Applicator (5.10 X)
By: Chris D When: 2 days ago

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Comments: I don't know that this wall is tall enough to have an X-rated route.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Sheep Pass CG Area : Campsite Area (Campsite 3) : Indian Creek Crack (5.5)
By: Chris D When: 2 days ago

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Comments: A few fun moves. Some nice jams. Worth the walk if you're already camping at Sheep Pass.

Easiest way down is to turn right after you top out and climb the easy face that gets you to the top of the "main" wall in this area. Easy walk-off from there.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Sheep Pass CG Area : Campsite Area (Campsite 3) : Lord Jim (5.5)
By: Chris D When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Two or three fun moves.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Sheep Pass CG Area : Campsite Area (Campsite 3)
By: Chris D When: 2 days ago

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Comments: If you find yourself hungover in campsite 3 without the energy or motivation to go find something good to climb, you're in luck; there's a few dinky, pretty low-quality routes right behind your campsite. Otherwise, skip this area.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Sheep Pass CG Area : Campsite Area (Campsite 3) : Unknown (5.7)
By: Chris D When: 2 days ago

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Comments: One of the oddest places for bolts I've ever seen. This is a super-easy chimney. I have to assume someone figured they'd found an out of the way place to practice with their bosch.

This is a good place to refine your chimney technique in a safe situation without the benefit of a rope.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Shuteye Ridge
By: Chris D When: Mar 14, 2014

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Comments: The guidebook has "over 800 routes" in this area. On Mountain Project (as of today)... Seven.

What gives?

Some nice pictures, but some solid "beyond the guidebook" beta from locals would be great.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Fingertrip (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: In an attempt to get into the sun after freezing for three pitches this past Saturday, we skipped lunch ledge by continuing past it on easy terrain just to the right of lunch ledge and belaying at the first nice spot to stop at, which just happened to be right below where the crack/corner of the 5.6 finish begins. Nice!

Got us a little warmth, but I was thinking it would be a great way to skip lunch ledge on a crowded summer day, and the climbing was better than the broken blocks directly abov... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Unreported Rock : Frank's Sandwich (5.10+)
By: Chris D When: Feb 17, 2014

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Comments: This thing really merits bolting. I haven't even seen it, but I'm pretty sure it needs to be tightly bolted.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Fingertrip (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Feb 13, 2014

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Comments: @Yosemitesam, The "beautiful .75 camalot sized hand crack" that you got "suckered" into is actually the original "correct" route to take at the top of the first pitch, so don't feel too bad.

From the old Chuck Wilts guide:

"Where progress to the tree is blocked, ascend a narrow crack which leads diagonally up and left on the smooth face. Traverse back to the fir tree ledge."

This option is actually easier than 5.7.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Isles in the Sky : Nectar (5.4) : Photo
By: Chris D When: Feb 12, 2014

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Comments: This is the tiniest solo EVER.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Feudal Wall : ... : The Mikado (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Feb 2, 2014

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Comments: Curiously, there are multiple 5.7 moves on this steep 5.6, which manages to be both greasy and grainy at the same time. A lot of fun, and plenty of pro.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Indian Palisades Corridor : Toe the Line (5.9)
By: Chris D When: Feb 2, 2014

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Comments: Great pro in the crack up top, not much below it, but that climbing is really easy. There might be one move of .8 in the crack, nothing that I can imagine anyone would seriously call 5.9.

La Reina, 5.9, is a couple hundred feet away and is in a completely different league of difficulty that this thing.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Indian Palisades Corridor
By: Chris D When: Feb 2, 2014

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Comments: I'm not even high, and I cannot for the life of me figure out what the hell is what on this wall, but I was up there this and last weekend and climbed everything that went under .10 and found it to be an enjoyable wall to get a bunch of climbing in. Bolts and rap rings all over.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Indian Palisades Corridor : Cotton Mouth (5.6 X)
By: Chris D When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: There are bolts that run up the little gully to the right of this route, but I believe they are for another route not included here or in guidebooks. There's a line of chalked holds that follow the bolt line. Cotton Mouth (as described here) is left of the bolts.

Lots of routes crammed on this face...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Indian Palisades Corridor : Willit Slab (5.6)
By: Chris D When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: 5 bolts to an anchor with rap rings. Incredibly grippy rock makes this relatively low angle friction slab 5.6 or 5.7 instead of the harder climb it would be on smoother rock.

The skidder you'd take from just below the second bolt would get you about 15-20 feet to the deck, so be mindful.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : Central Pinnacles
By: Chris D When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: Ryan,

You should climb then down-climb each route twice. Then they will seem long. Soon, and El Cap Day will be in the bag.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Frogland (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: Couple of thoughts on this route, which was great fun!

1. On P4, there is a way to get around all obstacles at no more than 5.6 or easy 7. From the belay you go up a knobby ramp to an obvious horizontal crack/ledge that you traverse on above the roof by the belay. Tons of chalk on the face below the roof from people who either didn't figure this out or were looking for the hard way up. Last weekend, there was an old fixed cam with some tatty nylon at the start of the roof further up (the one... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: Chris D When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: Everything everyone says about this route is totally true.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : Central Pinnacles : Claim Jumper Wall : Green Goblin (5.7)
By: Chris D When: Sep 29, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this on toprope today for a fun diversion from the sport routes around it. I can see where somebody would call the bottom section 5.7, if you were cool with climbing funky, steep, flaring chimneys with bad pro (unless maybe you have a set of big hexes). But this is going to be a shocker for anyone who is at Holcomb expecting 5.7.

The top section is more like what Holcomb has to offer in general, but still, not really. If you're okay with hand and fist jamming, this section of overh... more >>


Location: OR : Smith Rock
By: Chris D When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: A few thoughts after my first visit to Smith Rock; a full week of easy and moderate climbing sport and trad.

1. Despite what people say about the plentiful trad routes here, the place really is the domain of hard sport climbers. There are a few fun easy trad routes, but this is not a "destination crag" for easy and moderate trad single/multi-pitch. The basalt rimrock we'd hoped would yield a lot of fun short easy and moderate crack climbs looked like it hadn't been visited since 198... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Ryan Campground : Headstone Rock : ... : Photo
By: Chris D When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: These are not the anchors for Cryptic. These are the rap anchors for all routes on the Headstone (rap the north face), and the anchors that people use at the top of the SW Corner.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Ryan Campground : Headstone Rock : ... : Photo
By: Chris D When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: These are the anchors at the top of Cryptic. The rap anchors (and chains) are just west of these spinners. You don't want to rap off of these, but you can toprope Cryptic from them.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Red Wall : Chouinard's Crack (1st Half... (5.8)
By: Chris D When: Sep 15, 2013

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Comments: Polished!

What a fun climb. The business is over after just a couple of jams off the blocks as plentiful and solid holds present themselves on the left face. Great little climb, but over too soon.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Basalt Rimrock : Student Wall
By: Chris D When: Sep 12, 2013

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Comments: Our first stop on our first visit to Smith Rock. Judging from the sand and grit in the cracks and the lack of chalk on even the higher rated climbs, this area has fallen into neglect. The couple of routes that we did showed no sign of having been climbed in a long time, though some of the footholds had the glassy polish that only comes from years of regular ascents. Worth a stop just to check out the very high quality of the basalt and climb some cracks.


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