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Me leading Kim 5.6, Poland Hill, Vedauwoo, WY


Member Since: Aug 29, 2006
Last Visit: Jul 7, 2015
Contact Chris Chaney

Point Rank: # 150
Total Points: 3,297
Last Year: 9
Last 30 Days: 0
41 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Chris Chaney been climbing?










Contributions


All 799 | Routes 166 | Areas 53 | Photos 155 | Page Improvements | Comments 67 | Posts 9 | Stars 327 | Ratings 22
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Global Village : Jake Flake (5.7+)
By: Chris Chaney When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: I agree with a 5.8+/5.9 rating. I put it in as 5.7+ because other climbers insisted it was well protected with stoppers (its not) and that it wasn't that hard (it is).

Just because you can put stoppers in a crack doesn't mean they'll hold a fall. Sure, a 00 came will work, but again, that doesn't mean the fall potential so near the ground is minimized.

This is not a beginner lead and just because a beginner might pull it off doesn't change the reality of the climb.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Emerald City : Father's Day (5.5)
By: Chris Chaney When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: I agree. When I did it I got to the summit moves only to discover the upper edge of the cliff coated in ice. Somehow I made it past and topped out, but my poor heart was damaged from the stress.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pebble Beach : Central Scrutinizer (5.9)
By: Chris Chaney When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: Changed protection rating to "PG" with the caveat that you should back up the piton.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Emerald City : Watto (SDS) (V0) : Photo
By: Chris Chaney When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: This line was originally called Watto. FA '00. The line to the right was Toto, FA '99.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Emerald City : Big Toe Arete (V0+ PG13)
By: Chris Chaney When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: FA was in '99. Don't remember who.

Also, Black Magic Arete is the left side of this arete.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Emerald City : Skittles (V0) : Photo
By: Chris Chaney When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: The photo shows the right side of Skittles. This is not Black Magic Arete.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Graining Fork Nature Preser...
By: Chris Chaney When: Jan 5, 2015

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Comments: Still closed as of 1/5/15


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pistol Ridge : A Fresh Start (5.10c)
By: Chris Chaney When: Jan 5, 2015

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Comments: I'm 99% sure the FA info is wrong on this one.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Global Village : Jake Flake (5.7+)
By: Chris Chaney When: Jan 5, 2015

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Comments: I'm not sure why it's showing up as 7+. I distinctly remember thinking the 5.8 grade the FA gave it (yeah I'm talking about you Scott) was BS


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Juniper Pass
By: Chris Chaney When: Aug 25, 2010

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Comments: Seems like it would make more sense for this area to be under "Idaho Springs".


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Jazz Dome : Lynn's Route (5.6)
By: Chris Chaney When: Aug 19, 2010

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Comments: When James says "coming out", he means it. I'm not sure what keeps them in the hole.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Edwards' Crack (5.7)
By: Chris Chaney When: Jul 25, 2010

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Comments: Left side in is the key. We broke it up into two pitches just for fun and I watched my partner leading it that way, so I made sure to clean and stick everything on the right side. Made the finish very enjoyable.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall
By: Chris Chaney When: Jul 25, 2010

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Comments: You can get down (almost) with rope stretch using a single 70m rope from the Walt's Wall anchors just over the boulder exit n Satterfield's Crack. You'll be about 10' off the ground but you can scramble down easily from that point. A single 60m will not work! And if you forget and rap off the ends of the 70, it will hurt.


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Jazz Dome : Photo
By: Chris Chaney When: Jul 8, 2010

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Comments: Easy Listening is indicated by the red line. Private property is in blue.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Practice Wall : Acrophobiacs Anonymous (5.4)
By: Chris Chaney When: Jul 5, 2010

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Comments: This will seem goofy (the whole wall) if you're an experienced climber at all, but for newbies and especially small kids this is a great area.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill
By: Chris Chaney When: Jun 20, 2010

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Comments: For someone looking for easier routes Kim, SW Friction and Little Old Crack are a nice concentration of lines in a great setting. You may have to share....


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Kim (5.6)
By: Chris Chaney When: Jun 20, 2010

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Comments: I agree that the climb is short and somewhat of a novelty climb, but that aside, it's in an amazing setting, with a commanding position. The line itself is striking from a distance, and it takes good gear. I call it a classic for aesthetic reasons alone. For a new leader, or someone that is a 5.6-5.7 leader this would be a nice tick, just because you can sew it up and enjoy an amazing climb at the same time.

We lucked out and there weren't really any crowds, though we did end up sharing the ro... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Southwest Friction (5.4)
By: Chris Chaney When: Jun 20, 2010

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Comments: This was pretty casual, but take care if you are not comfortable without big positive handholds. (Spoiler!) The climbing gets easier after the second (last) bolt, but you get into crater territory near the top.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir
By: Chris Chaney When: Apr 27, 2010

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Comments: What exactly does "Southeast Reservoir is closed" mean? Where is Southeast Reservoir?


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pebble Beach : Central Scrutinizer (5.9)
By: Chris Chaney When: Apr 13, 2010

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Comments: I agree that above the bolt the gear is bomber, however I gave the route a PG13 rating because getting to the bolt the gear is not ideal and you risk a ground fall. Also, the bolt itself is questionable based on its size and age. It would probably hold a hard fall, but I wouldn't bet the farm on it.

I've climbed the route many times and feel very comfortable on it, but I don't want to lull new 5.9 leaders into a false sense of security.


Location: CO : Indoor Walls : Golden Rec Center
By: Chris Chaney When: Apr 13, 2010

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Comments: Check hours before you make a special trip. There are certain times set aside for climbing club and family climbing. Call 303-384-8100 for hours.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Graining Fork Nature Preser... : Fadda (5.10a)
By: Chris Chaney When: Apr 12, 2010

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Comments: I'm pretty sure the anchors are NOT cold shuts unless someone replaced them.


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Bali Dome
By: Chris Chaney When: Apr 8, 2010

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Comments: The far left route seems to match Trout's description for the left-most route (Stewart Green labels it "Bali Left 5.8" in a 1997 Rock & Ice article) and I think Pee Wee's First Bolt must be the lower anchors you can see from the belay ledge to the right. The left most route felt 5.8 (though I bailed down low).


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Bucksnort Slab
By: Chris Chaney When: Nov 19, 2008

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Comments: Bucksnort appears to be located almost completely within the property at 16091 S. Elk Crek Rd. and IS private and owned by a person named Short.

Also, the property on both sides of the road is under the same ownership.

Jefferson County has a great mapping program called jmap which will give ownership information for any parcel in the county. This is great for making sure you are not trespassing or giving you the contact info to determine who you need to contact for permission. It stays up to... more >>


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Alderfer/Three Sisters Park : The Land of Slabs
By: Chris Chaney When: Oct 18, 2008

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Comments: "Back" side being the west side.


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