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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock : Honey Badger (5.13a)
By: Chris Beh When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Ooooo! The honey badger doesn't give a shit. Hilarious video! Nice work getting in one of the better lines left in the Flatirons. Putting up routes like this are butt load of work, underappreciated. 10x harder than just being able to drill while sussing out the route. Good on you, boys!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park
By: Chris Beh When: Jan 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for explaining what has been going on in Staunton. There is a good view of Black Mountain heading up Crow Hill, just east of Bailey on 285. There is a lot of rock up there, and I started investigating access last year and then soon realized it was in Staunton and closed. Glad to see the new park will allow climbing. What will be the rules regarding new routes and bolts...Eldo style or open range?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cryptic Boulder : Cryptic Right (V5)
By: Chris Beh When: Jan 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Chip, I don't know that it was an FA. Owen Silver and I were over at Cryptic in July '12, and since we couldn't get off the ground off left, he started pulling on just where the photo shows. The starting holds seemed like they had been touched before. We didn't get it then, but he went back solo and sent this variation shortly after. I got it the day I took these photos of Owen in November. It's a fun and much easier way to get up the basic line...almost a completely different problem at eas... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff
By: Chris Beh When: Nov 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If the fence in question isn't posted with a raptor closure or as a Habitat Conservation Area, then it isn't closed to use behind the fence. It is like a cattle fence...designed to keep dumb creatures from mindlessly following a trail that leads them where they probably don't want to go anyway. FWIW, there is a well used social trail in that draw that drops straight down to Boulder Creek and comes out behind a commercial building (no resisdential property crossing necessary) just South of Eben G... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Slave to the Rhythm (5.13b)
By: Chris Beh When: Oct 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent Curt and Stephen are replacing the hardware on Slave. It really is one of the coolest routes in the Flatirons. I worked it a few times when I was belaying Colin on his Honemaster project. He even had a small piece of closed cell foam to pad out the "bathtub" rest before the top crux on Slave. I never could really do the top crux...no one thought about knee bars back then. FWIW, I was chatting with Dan Michael about Slave last week, and he mentioned he never used the final rest off to t... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Photo
By: Chris Beh When: Aug 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Leopard print lycra and a pink tank top...those were the days!
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Location: WY : Laramie Peak Wildlife Habit...
By: Chris Beh When: Feb 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dennis,You're a prince for starting to share info on this area. I'd say it's too far out there to worry about the CO hordes that so many WY and UT climbers complain about. Kudos to you for all your hard work putting them routes up.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Hole in the Wall : Dragonslayer (5.12a)
By: Chris Beh When: Mar 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a great route!!! But I had some trouble at the last crux clipping 2nd to last or 3rd to last bolt (can't remember which). It was obviously placed to contrive the line through the hardest moves but within an arm's reach left are jugs and huecos. It climbs like a different variation. Go left and then back right I think it is 11c, staying right, on the bolt line, it's solid 12a.
A suggestion for Mr. Anderson if you get around to rebolting this one...move that one bolt about a foot left. Then ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Family Man (5.12a)
By: Chris Beh When: Oct 31, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: A hold broke above the crux sometime in October. It was the pebble for the 10+ cross over move. I haven't been on it since, but I watched two strong climbers do it, and they thought it is now 11 to 11+, a height-dependent reach move from the long rail by your feet.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Golden Shower Wall : Pushing Two Hundred (5.11b/c)
By: Chris Beh When: Aug 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bolting a route right over the trail is short sighted and way too high profile. Look at the kerfuffle (cool German word meaning, roughly, a temptest in a teapot) going on here. If you put up a route off the trail, none of this conversation would be happening.
There is an amazing amount of cragging potential in Loch Vale for short, bolt-protected climbs. If it was an area where a power drill could be used at will, there could be hundreds of routes up there. I don't really care if a route is don... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Carbs and Caffeine (5.11a)
By: Chris Beh When: Jul 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I led the whole thing in one pitch, from the ground, with double ropes in 1986. I had enough slings to keep the rope drag manageable even on the final roof. Which kicked my ass like other super, scruncy Gunks classics (Swing Time, Pork Roaster, Arachnias). I whippped off the last overhang 2 or 3 times, with rope stretch and an expert, Mileski style Joey split finger, dynamic belay by Stokey Baker, the ride must have been 40 feet. But I could get back on above the lower crux and I'd just yo yo up... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : War Zone (5.11b)
By: Chris Beh When: Jun 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is an intermediate anchor above the 5.9 trad section before the hard climbing. This is a great route by itself, climbs more like a City of Rocks,ID route. I'd rate it PG13, and it requires some concentration above small gear.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak
By: Chris Beh When: Apr 13, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here's the Long's Peak webcam which shows the N Face:
ns.www.nps.gov.edgesuite.net/featurecontent/romo/bmvc_cam.ht>>>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Pinnacle Colada : Pebble Reach (V3)
By: Chris Beh When: Mar 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This problem could be called the "horizontal seam reach" since the pebble broke a few years ago. I skip the pebble except as a foot hold later. The reach move is more about wing span than height. There are plenty of high feet at the crux. If this was on a route in Eldo, with a bolt at your chest, it would be rated 11a. One of the best highballs on Flag.
I've seen a friend fall twice grabbing the big sloper after the crux reach. It was a nice clean feet first fall onto the pads. And he was fine... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : The Flagstaff Amphitheatre : Gill Direct (V4) : Photo
By: Chris Beh When: Jan 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: He's on Sandpaper Ledges...sandbag V3 these days. Nice old photo, Bob. Keep posting more of them!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Reckoning (5.12d)
By: Chris Beh When: Nov 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Josh,
There is a down climb from the top of the Handcracker pinnacle that comes down a ramp above Positively 4th St. If you walk uphill just past P 4TH St you can scramble onto the bottom of the descent which moves up and right. You could 3rd class to the top of the pinnacle and then rap into the anchor on top of The Reckoning and hang draws on your way down. Or once you reach the top of the ridge you can scramble around the back side and then onto the terrace at the base of the routes. You coul... more >>
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Grizzly Creek Wall (aka Mud...
By: Chris Beh When: Aug 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Congrats on the new routes on the Mudwall.
The late Roy Poteet and I made a foray on the Mudwall in 1984, looking to repeat an old Kor route. Roy had a vague verbal description of the route from Kor. We climbed up some crack system about a pitch and a half. The entire crack and surface of the wall was covered with about a half inch of caked on, dried "mud". When you tried to clean it, it exploded into a cloud of dust. I wanted goggles and respirator. We bailed but I remember thinking that ther... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Monkey Traverse : The Monkey Traverse (V4)
By: Chris Beh When: Jul 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chris, That low hold broke not long after that 3 Chris sesh we had back in April. The one where you showed me all the beta on the Monkey low.
That opening dyno is pretty nasty, now.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab
By: Chris Beh When: Jun 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Slab was mobbed by sport climbers Saturday... 20+ climbers, lots of dogs, ropes on every route, gang toproping. There are only 10 routes. And it was so busy nobody was climbing as much as they wanted. All the new routes were bound to create a rush of interest. If you don't like crowds I suggest avoiding The Slab on weekends, for the rest of the summer.
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Location: CO : New Boulder Canyon Guideboo...
By: Chris Beh When: Jun 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The sample pages look fantastic.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : The Engagement (5.12b)
By: Chris Beh When: Jun 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great job finishing up this route. Talk about an obvious line, front and center on the Grotto Wall. Chip Lee aided part of this route,in '83, his high point was the old button head bolt. I hung a top rope over it in '87...John Stieger and I both free climbed up to the jug on the arete. We lost interest, though, because the rest of the route above, looked like 5.13 on vertical kitty litter. When I heard you finished it at only 12b I was surprised but now I see from the video you ended the route w... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Shalohsh (5.12a)
By: Chris Beh When: Jun 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kristin Bjornsen, thanks for all the belaying on my project. This route wouldn't be ready, yet, for other climbers, without your help. Erik Fedor got it first when we had a top rope on it last year. Pat Adams climbed it on tr to vet my bolt locations. He called it 12a (sandbag alert!) Thanks for the feedback, Pat.
I put the bolts in 5/30/09 and redpointed it, too.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Family Man (5.12a)
By: Chris Beh When: May 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had the drill out, putting in an anchor on the adjacent line so I added a 12th bolt to this route. The anchor isn't visible from the 11th bolt. The new one points the way. My permit allowed 12 bolts.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Mount Sanitas
By: Chris Beh When: May 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Red Rocks in Boulder is extra soft Fountain sandstone which doesn't climb well at all. Mt Sanitas is Dakota sandstone.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Runsholl Scrunch (5.12- PG13)
By: Chris Beh When: Mar 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is easy to top rope this climb off the tree at the top of Super Scooper with a 70m rope (you'll need 2 cordelettes or 4-8 slings to get the rope in position and back the tree up. I used a slung horn). Runsholl is fun, steep and pumpy. The pins can be clipped on the way down for convenient directionals. You scored freeing this, Steve. Very surprising it wasn't free climbed until 2006.
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