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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Dec 9, 2014
Contact Chris Archer


Point Rank: # 778
Total Points: 842
Last Year: 19
Last 30 Days: 3
33 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Chris Archer been climbing?










Contributions


All 1937 | Routes 33 | Areas 3 | Photos 66 | Page Improvements | Comments 137 | Posts 10 | Stars 913 | Ratings 775
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Fly Trap (5.11c)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 14, 2004

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Comments: I'd agree with Crusher's assessment: the anchors are in the middle of the crux. Would've been a better route if the anchors were moved up and another bolt added beneath them. Otherwise, strenous and somewhat inobvious sequences.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Yellow Traverse (5.9)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 11, 2004

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Comments: Here's a trivia question for all you history buffs. What was the original name of this route?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 1 : Shootin' Off At The Mouse (5.10d)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 1, 2004

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Comments: Great thin face climbing to a fun filled steep hueco finish.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 1 : Casana Rojo (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 1, 2004

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Comments: Good climbing (low in the grade) that is marred somewhat by bolt placements. The second bolt is in a depression that loads the biner in a way that stresses the gate in a disconcerting fashion. You can't flip the biner either because of the pocket that it is drilled in. placing the bolt on any of the flat rock nearby would eliminate this and not affect the clip. The last bolt placement is also at an odd location. Extend it with a long sling or two so your rope is clipped in below the sharp ov... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Thunderdome (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: May 30, 2004

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Comments: Fabulous route. One of the best trad climbs of its grade in the Boulder area. Powerful crux. I thought Chris Peisker led this on the FA.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Cold Snap (5.11b)
By: Chris Archer When: May 13, 2004

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Comments: On a historical note, the first ascent team placed no pins or bolts and led the route on all natural gear. (Good job lads!) The route traversed in from the right climbed the crack past the current middle crux (at the pin and bolt) and then finished up and right in the chimney gully just left of Free Willie's anchors.Does anyone have any information about the direct start or finish?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Blame it on a Rush of Blood... (5.11b/c)
By: Chris Archer When: May 12, 2004

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Comments: Does anyone know where this route is? How far right of New Beginnings?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Raccoon Soup aka Thunderbol... (5.11+)
By: Chris Archer When: May 10, 2004

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Comments: It's my understanding that [Chris] Peisker first led this stellar pitch in 77. I suspect the differences of opinion regarding the difficulty and protection ultimately reduces to height. Climbers 5'8" and under will have a difficult time placing the RPs at the roof. For me, the placements are either blind or difficult, time consuming and skin shredding. If the placements at the roof blew as you pulled the crux, you might be hurt in the fall, although probably not badly.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Green Mountain Pinnacle : Death and Transfiguration (5.11b)
By: Chris Archer When: May 4, 2004

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Comments: Roger is not known for over grading routes. Nor, might I add, was Jim Erickson, who also assigned the solid 11 grade in his classic guide, Rocky Heights. This route has been one of the pitches in the area that has been used as a standard for measuring "solid 5.11" for over 25 years. It's about as consensus as a grade gets within a climbing community. The fact that a few others are downgrading it, merely speaks to their inability to accurately judge difficulty. Nothing to get worked up about.... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Hypertension (5.12b)
By: Chris Archer When: May 3, 2004

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Comments: After a chossy start, the quality of both the rock and the moves increases, but 12b??!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : South Crack (5.11c)
By: Chris Archer When: Apr 2, 2004

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Comments: Fabulous route, it and dream street rose on the north side deserve lots more traffic. Too bad the fixed anchor was chopped because for a while you could do south crack and east ridge back to back and rap after the cruxes without having to top out and join the bottleneck for the summit rappel. Solid 11.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Guenese (5.11a)
By: Chris Archer When: Mar 15, 2004

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Comments: In the late 70s there was good pin in the flake right of the second bolt. At some point it ripped, leaving a good RP placement. In the mid to late 80s, the flake broke and the RP placement was no more.

The route had traditionally been done in one pitch from the ground over the roof. However in the late 70s/early 80s, the bolt in the roof was an old 1/4 incher that was about halfway out of the roof. (It eventually pulled, making the roof lead even more exciting.) That dubious bolt resulte... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Ignition (5.11d)
By: Chris Archer When: Mar 15, 2004

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Comments: Great route. I agree that it doesn't deserve the seriousness rating. The crux is a 2 move boulder problem passing the second bolt that is difficult to decipher. 12a onsight, 11d if you know what to do.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Apple Strudel (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: Mar 15, 2004

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Comments: Intricate balancy face climbing with sequential foot work. An Eldorado classic. A fall getting to the first bolt would be dangerous and probably warrants a semi serious rating. FYI, the first bolt was in place when I first did the route in '85 or '86.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Helter Skelter (5.11d)
By: Chris Archer When: Mar 11, 2004

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Comments: If there is a 5.11 way to climb this route, I'd be interested in hearing what it is. It's probably not 12b as originally rated if you veer left at mid-height into the juggy corner, but the moves at the second-to-last bolt are as hard as many Shelf 12a's, and tricky to read.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : The Art of Dreaming (5.12)
By: Chris Archer When: Feb 16, 2004

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Comments: Surprisingly good. The route climbs much better than it looks. The crux is height /reach related, which may explain the differing opinions on the grade. For my size 5'8" & 0 A.I. it's 12b to the rest, followed by a fun 11a/b roof and a romp to the anchors.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Chris Archer When: Jan 27, 2004

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Comments: The piece that works if placed correctly and gently set is a 1 tech friend/red alien. The yellow alien generally rips. Dougald fell onto the tech friend not the alien.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Hand Crack (aka White Light... (5.10b)
By: Chris Archer When: Nov 30, 2003

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Comments: Great climb. Don't know why it was renamed in the guide, especially since there is already a route named Handcracker on the West Ridge. As Joe says, it had always been referred to as White Lightning until Boulder Climbs South came out.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : The Formula (5.11d)
By: Chris Archer When: Nov 30, 2003

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Comments: The 2-3 move boulder problem seemed as hard or harder than wendego, apple strudel, or the contest. An interesting finish protected by old knifeblades, keeps you on your toes. The anchor, slings off two small trees, should be replaced.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Parting Shot (5.11)
By: Chris Archer When: Nov 12, 2003

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Comments: The opening moves have become more difficult since the first ascent due to a flake breaking off. The crux is height (or reach dependent). The final roof has always seemed like it had a move or two of 11- to me. Would love to find the 10a way to pull it! BTW, bolts on this route were replaced in the summer of 2002.

An entertaining variation pioneered by the much-missed Derek Hershey climbs the opening corner of Parting Shot, traverses right to the crux bulge of the second pitch of Apple S... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Prince of Darkness (5.11a)
By: Chris Archer When: Nov 12, 2003

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Comments: I'm glad people are enjoying the route. The grade is certainly height dependent. I did the route again recently and still think 11a is a fair grade for average height climbers, if you're 6 feet or taller it's probably 5.10 something, if 5'6" or shorter 5.11 something. It's also chalk dependent. The last time I had done this route was about 5 years earlier in the sun on a hot day with Jim Erickson who led it sans chalk: 12c. Bolts were replaced in October 2003.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Varieties Of Religious Expe... (5.11b R)
By: Chris Archer When: Nov 12, 2003

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Comments: Pitches 1 and 2 offer a variety of different experiences, hence the name. Bolts on the crux pitch were replaced in October 2003.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Plan B (5.12b)
By: Chris Archer When: Oct 28, 2003

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Comments: Sport climbing in Boulder Canyon doesn't get much better than this route and Hot Flyer.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Hot Flyer (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: Oct 28, 2003

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Comments: Outstanding climbing in any condition.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Empire of the Fenceless (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: Oct 28, 2003

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Comments: Brilliant route. 12a onsight grade; 11b/c redpoint.


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