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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Chris Archer


Point Rank: # 766
Total Points: 839
Last Year: 16
Last 30 Days: 0
33 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Chris Archer been climbing?










Contributions


All 1909 | Routes 33 | Areas 3 | Photos 66 | Page Improvements | Comments 134 | Posts 10 | Stars 901 | Ratings 762
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Sooberb (5.10c)
By: Chris Archer When: Sep 17, 2007

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Comments: This weekend, the two trees that have been used for rappels for the descent from Sooberb, Long John Wall, etc., have been replaced with camouflaged double bolt anchors. The first set of anchors from the ledge near the top of the cliff are on the slab just left of the tree and easy to overlook. This location was the best spot for the anchors given the quality of the rock and the pull.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 27, 2006

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Comments: Early May through mid October is the season. April is climbable if you don't mind postholing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Wired (5.10a PG13)
By: Chris Archer When: May 27, 2006

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Comments: This isn't Right Side.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Right Side? aka Bong Sessio... (5.10c)
By: Chris Archer When: May 27, 2006

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Comments: For decades this route was known as the Right Side. It was first climbed in 1961 by Kor and Northcutt. It was part of the Black Widow trilogy: Left Side, Center and Right Side. It has been documented as such since 1967 in all of Pat Ament's BC guides and Jim Erickson's classic Rocky Heights. It was graded 5.8 in the first High Over Boulder (1967) and stayed there through the second HOB and through 5.10, the Ament Erickson guide. It was upgraded to 5.9 in Rocky Heights (1980). The name change... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Boulder Quartz System (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 6, 2005

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Comments: Thoughtful and pumpy climbing up a unique geologic feature.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Direct North Face (5.11- R)
By: Chris Archer When: Nov 15, 2004

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Comments: Very entertaining and great clues, Steve! Hopefully it will pique the curiosity of a new generation of Eldo history afficionados....but isnt the answer to the last clue a different climb, namely Rosy? I haven't seen the film in many years, but I seem to recal the incident that I think you're referring to occurring on the traverse.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Respite (5.11d)
By: Chris Archer When: Oct 30, 2004

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Comments: An excellent, thought provoking climb. The crux is difficult to read on the onsight, but becomes quite reasonable once you know what to do. it felt like 12a on the onsight due to the inobvious nature of the crux, but dropped to 11c on repeat ascents once you know what to do. Doing the route in one pitch is the way to go. 98' to the anchors.There is a hidden bolt just above the handcrack and before the first bolt in the bulge. Knowing this reduces the need for the 3Friend/ gold camalot.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Rock For Climbing Routes To (5.10b)
By: Chris Archer When: Oct 25, 2004

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Comments: Rock for Climbing Routes To is an independent 3 pitch (as originally done) line that begins on the arete left of the first pitch of Break on Through and ends as described here. Perhaps Andy could provide additional FA details.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Evermore (5.12d)
By: Chris Archer When: Sep 6, 2004

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Comments: Great extension to Elanor. The no hands rest on Elanor makes this significantly less pumpy than Nevermore. Still requires creativity for the devious crux. 8 bolts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Sunset Boulevard (5.11b)
By: Chris Archer When: Aug 19, 2004

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Comments: A point of clarification to the ac who thought the 2nd bolt above the crux was unnecessary. I added that bolt to protect the second. Without it, a fall at the crux while following the pitch sends the second into space and necessitates lowering to the ground and starting over.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Seein' Double (5.11a)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 29, 2004

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Comments: Darren, Cheers retrobolted an existing trad route. Why would you consider that a more valid route?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Unfamiliar Strangers (5.9+)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 28, 2004

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Comments: An enjoyable pitch that would rate 2 stars if not for the pointless runout. Exciting in high winds.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Give the Dog a Bone (5.13a)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 12, 2004

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Comments: Thanks Bob, it is a terrific route! I agree that 4 bolts adequately protect the crux top half. Both guidebooks only show 3 bolts above the halfway point ledge and 3 below. Removing any of the 4 headwall bolts and reducing the total to 3 would result in potential ledge falls, and would be out of character with the rest of the route. I think that a bolt up high was missed in the initial count. Mark told me that he has not been on the route, so that may account for the error in his guide. In ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Give the Dog a Bone (5.13a)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 11, 2004

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Comments: Where were the bolts when you led it, Peter? there are now 3 bolts below the ledge and 4 bolts protecting the headwall/ crux. They all seem to be the same vintage.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Give the Dog a Bone (5.13a)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 8, 2004

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Comments: One last note: there are 7 bolts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Give the Dog a Bone (5.13a)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 8, 2004

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Comments: Fabulous pitch. 1-2 cams in the hand sized range (2-3 size friends) protect the stretch to the first bolt after that the bolts are sufficient. The upper half of the route involves 3 short boulder problems separated by good holds with a rising pump.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : A Tall Cool One (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 6, 2004

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Comments: A key flake has ripped at the second crux, making the route slightly more difficult than before.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Touch 'N' Go (5.8+)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 24, 2004

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Comments: 1st P NEW VARIATION: From the stem stance before the first crux (where the thread, big stopper, 2.5 friend placement is), pull up and over the roof to a recently excavated hold. Head straight up. About as hard as the regular way.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Pri-Moe (5.10d)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 23, 2004

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Comments: For many years, Bob has done an awesome job in opening numerous routes of all grades in the area. Unfortunately they can't all be gems, and IMHO this one falls into that category. After being bombarded with a steady stream of lichen, dirt, pebbles, and assorted other detritus, I got the coveted "second refused to follow! (or lead)." Maybe this route will clean up after significant traffic, but at present it is quite dirty. Some other minor points: the 4th bolt is placed too high to be clippe... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Lucky Strikes Again (5.9)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 23, 2004

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Comments: This route is on the far right side of Upper Coney Island. The upper half of this route is enjoyable and climbs intimidatingly steep rock on a series of amazing jugs that if they were at the Sport Park you'd think were manufactured. The lower half seemed rather dirty, uninspiring, and, at one point, somewhat runout.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Winchester Cave : Ricochet (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 21, 2004

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Comments: Thanks for the recollection, Richard. I always wondered why Rob didn't open more routes protected like Ricochet, and your thread answers that question nicely! Thanks for setting the record straight.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Winchester Cave : Ricochet (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 21, 2004

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Comments: Brilliant outing. Very un-Rifle-like. Lots of positive flat edges with generally obvious sequences. Richard, any additional info on the FA mix-up? I thought Rob Candelaria had opened Richocet and Puppy Love.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Fly Trap (5.11c)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 14, 2004

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Comments: I'd agree with Crusher's assessment: the anchors are in the middle of the crux. Would've been a better route if the anchors were moved up and another bolt added beneath them. Otherwise, strenous and somewhat inobvious sequences.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Yellow Traverse (5.9)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 11, 2004

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Comments: Here's a trivia question for all you history buffs. What was the original name of this route?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 1 : Shootin' Off At The Mouse (5.10d)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 1, 2004

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Comments: Great thin face climbing to a fun filled steep hueco finish.


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