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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Early Wall : The Runway : Top Gun (5.11-)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Completely agree w the previous comment. This is an excellent route with continually interesting climbing on good rock until the finale. You cant see the anchors from the last bolt (it looks like you finish on the 11+ to the left and share anchors, but Top Gun has its own well hidden anchors). If you blow the moves to the chains, using lichen covered holds, it looks like a bad (ankle breaking?) fall. Adding one last bolt before the anchors (which would eliminate the bad fall potential and pr... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great news for all you aficionados of Eldorado history:
Dudley Chelton, the photographer who painstakingly documented the free climbing scene in Eldorado in the 1970s has posted many of his pictures from that era on his website.
You can check it out at: chelton.zenfolio.com/p342334459
Thanks for posting these killer shots, Dudley!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP
By: Chris Archer When: May 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE. 17 May 2010.
The seasonal bird closure on Redgarden Wall, from The Naked Edge (pitch 3 - top) through Sidetrack, has been lifted because there has been no nesting activity in the area. All of Regarden Wall is now open to climbing.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Suparete (5.11a)
By: Chris Archer When: Apr 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Any climber can apply to ACE's Fixed Hardware Review Committee to add another bolt. If the climbing community agrees, the application is usually approved by the Park. www.aceeldo.org/fhrc/application.php
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Perversion (5.9)
By: Chris Archer When: Jan 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the update, David. Mickey Mouse is owned and managed by Boulder Mountain Parks and is out of ACE's jurisdiction. Contact the Flatirons Climbing Council for information about replacing the anchors.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Chris Archer When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Congratulations to Erik Weihenmayer, Brady Robinson, Charlie Mace, and Cedar Wright on the first blind ascent of the Naked Edge. 5 November 2009. Outstanding and super inspirational effort!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Song of the Dodo (5.12a R)
By: Chris Archer When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: GEAR ALERT. As of 1 November 2009, the top bolt is missing.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : Road Runner (5.9)
By: Chris Archer When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Would be a great pitch when linked with Roadside Attraction sans the 15' runout at the top. Quite dangerous (R/X) in its current state if 5.9 is your limit. The new guide (2009) calls it 10a with 5 bolts. The grade is about right, but the bolt count is off. Fun and adequately protected climbing takes you past 4 bolts and deposits you at a contrived runout on some not so positive holds. A fall off the moves to the anchor would be quite serious. Bring small to mid size nuts (2-4 Rock size)... more >>
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Brenna (5.11a)
By: Chris Archer When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice route on good stone. Would be much improved by moving the crux bolt down 18" or so, so that it could be clipped before doing the crux move rather than after.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Talking Out Of Turn (5.10)
By: Chris Archer When: Aug 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The large loose block right of the anchor is still there, stacked on another loose block. Trundling does not seem like an option regardless of whether there are climbers below as it could easily take the ride to the road.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Blockhead (5.12b)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The stemming is over after the traverse right. Once you step back left the business begins, but there are several Rifle-like moves that are less than obvious that make it pretty reasonable. Glad you like the route, Mike.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Blockhead (5.12b)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It has been done without using the obvious stem. 12c/d.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Monkey Traverse : The Monkey Traverse (V4)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The monsoon season has apparently claimed another casualty: the good right hand lieback that starts the Low Traverse is gone. Anyone know when it pulled or where it ended up?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Psychosis (5.10d PG13)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I hadn't done this route in over 15 years until Saturday and it was terrific. Much better than I remembered with the 3OF 2d pitch var. While 11a for the 3d pitch start seemed generous, 10a for the upper hand crack seemed quite stout. A blue Camalot was the biggest piece of gear we took and it came in handy protecting the crux moves above the roof on 3OF as well as the flare on the 3d pitch direct start. The rest of the rack consisted of RPs (optional), Nuts 1-6, and 2 sets of cams: Aliens - go... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : LAYTON KOR AT NEPTUNES 2 SH...
By: Chris Archer When: Apr 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Outstanding!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Unbroken Chain (5.11c R)
By: Chris Archer When: Apr 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh man... sorry to see that picture, Scott. Hope your recovery is quick and look fw to seeing you back in Eldo.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : False Prophet (5.11d)
By: Chris Archer When: Feb 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd be happy to help you place the anchor, Adam.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : False Prophet (5.11d)
By: Chris Archer When: Feb 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Why not submit an application to ACE to do so?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : West Ridge Boulders : West Ridge Traverse (V5)
By: Chris Archer When: Feb 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sun until 3:30 PM 6 Feb.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Ghetto Cruiser (5.7)
By: Chris Archer When: Nov 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Surprisingly fun route. Not sure where you'd place the number 4. It is too small for all but the first few feet of the offwidth. More pleasant climbing is had in the dihedral to the left of the OW. Belaying just before heading up and left on the Easy Street ramp will prevent considerable rope drag and provide some shelter from gale force winter winds.
The anchors are not well thought out. The two options are extending the anchors with long slings to lower to the bolts on the top of Untit... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Lower Security Risk : Security Risk (5.9)
By: Chris Archer When: Nov 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Terrific route, which is the namesake of the two Security Risk formations. It seems odd to grade the route according to the easier and less interesting variations and to describe the variations as the route. The route starts on the 10+ corner. It is not 5.9. IMO the route should be listed and graded as originally climbed, with the easier variations being noted as options. Good gear is available, but strenuous to place on the original first pitch The route gets another star if you run both p... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP
By: Chris Archer When: Nov 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: First Route in Eldorado?
2010 will be the 75th anniversary of the first rock climb in the Gunks: The Old Route at Millbrook, FA by Fritz Weissner, 1935. This got me thinking: what was the first rock climb in Eldorado? As near as I can tell from the guides, the Bastille Crack may have that designation. Jim Erickson placed the first ascent in the early 1950s by US Army climbers. After that there are several routes done in 1956, the most challenging being the Redgarden Route. Does anyone hav... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips
By: Chris Archer When: Nov 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the update, Jason. Just to be certain, how do you know that OSMP owns these crags? Can you post a link to any public records that would establish this? As you know the ownership of land in the Boulder Falls area is often difficult to determine, so it would be good to double check this information.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Interceptor (5.11b R)
By: Chris Archer When: Sep 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Based solely on the last 2 editions of Rossiter's guides to Eldo (1989 & 2000), the FA is listed as Christian and Dale in 1984 (or perhaps the Kid in '77).
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Quiet Desperation (5.11c R)
By: Chris Archer When: Aug 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rob, it's an independent line R of Sidewall with better protection than Sidewall's first pitch.
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