Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Chris Archer When: Feb 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bolt and pin Inventory on the Edge:
P1: None; 2 bolt anchor.
P2: 2 bolts & 1 pin; 2 bolt anchor & pin.
P3: 4 or 5 pins; fixed slings for anchor.
P4: 4 pins; 3 bolt anchor.
P5: 1 pin.
|
Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Muppets in Space (5.10+)
By: Chris Archer When: Nov 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Apparently called "Muppets in Space"
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Southern Dinosaur Egg : Coming Attractions (5.10d)
By: Chris Archer When: Oct 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Interesting route. Climbing the left side of the arete is easy to mid 5.10 and OK, climbing the right side of the arete is mid 11 and worthwhile. My rating is for the right side and better variation. Groundfall potential above the first and second bolts. I did not see a fourth bolt, but Rossiter's last guide mentions 4 bolts. Another bolt between 2 and 3 would make this a route worth doing more than once.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : Triceratops Tracks (5.10+ R)
By: Chris Archer When: Oct 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crux climbing between the first and second bolts on friable rock. If anything breaks or you fall climbing the last 6 to 8 feet getting to the second bolt, you will hit the ramp.
|
Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Sitting Bull Falls
By: Chris Archer When: Sep 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We are thinking about a trip to Sitting Bull and Last Chance. Are both areas open after the fire? Also wondering what the best season is, if you need a high clearance vehicle to access the cliffs, and where the closest place to stay is. Any beta would be most appreciated.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Main Wall : Mystic Mile (5.10c)
By: Chris Archer When: Aug 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The potential exists for a nasty fall without a yellow Alien between bolts 2 and 3.
|
Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Damascus Gate : Dr. Goodkind (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: Aug 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This sounds like the Bizzler 12b. The Fizzler is the next route right, 12a, pumpy climbing through the first 4-5 bolts to a white streak.
|
Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : Simpson Rock : DuffMan is Thrusting Yes (5.10a)
By: Chris Archer When: Aug 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route is still evolving (shedding cobbles) and it is difficult/impossible for the belayer to belay out of the fall line. heads up!
|
Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Pipe Dream : Excavation (5.11c)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: best of the 5.11 warmups in the cave.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Specter (5.10d)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 10+ really? Perfect hands to the lip followed by some poor thin hand flares right about the time your feet disappear. Excellent physical climbing. Thanks for the anchors Rich.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Road To Emmaus (5.11a/b)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There was a chain on the first bolt for several years that eliminated the unneccesarily dangerous moves to the first bolt. Someone swiped it. Bring a stick clip, replacement chain or health insurance.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone have any information about the two new routes left of New Test of Men?
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : The Penguin (5.12b/c)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbing the arete slightly right of the crimpy crux makes it 12a.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Space (5.11b PG13)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice work, lads! Looks like a terrific addition.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : El Gallito (5.11)
By: Chris Archer When: May 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Quality climbing slightly marred by unnecesarily intimidating bolting. Hard to read finish. Felt like 11d on sight; 11b red point when you know where to go.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : Unknown (5.9)
By: Chris Archer When: May 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Better finish & better pro if you finish on the top of the 10-.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Nobody's Home (5.12b/c)
By: Chris Archer When: May 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the explanation, Topher! It sounds like an awesome addition! Kudos on the heady lead!
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Nobody's Home (5.12b/c)
By: Chris Archer When: Apr 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought that the roof had been done in 1987, and called Domestic Abuse? FA Doub, Arran, Panjiller. Does Nobody's Home climb different terrain?
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Red Devil : Paradise Lost (5.9)
By: Chris Archer When: Sep 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climbing and great features, but a fall before bolts 2-6 would be grim!
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : The Shaft (5.12b)
By: Chris Archer When: Sep 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well done, Matt! Outstanding route! When is the Patience Face going in? Many thanks for all your hard work establishing quality climbs for the community.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Trout Rock : Greenback (5.10c)
By: Chris Archer When: Aug 29, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ledge fall possible getting to 2d bolt.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : One and a Half Hours of Pow... (5.11- PG13)
By: Chris Archer When: Aug 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually Stu, I got the coveted second ascent about 15 minutes after Derek led the FA and also climbed it as a single pitch. I don't remember the gear being an issue except for a flake at the upper crux in the corner, which seemed suspect. Although mostly a link up of previous climbed terrain, it is a worthy pitch.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Road To Emmaus (5.11a/b)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Terrific climbing, but don't blow it getting to the first bolt.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of a week ago, the tyrolean traverse to Cob is an accident waiting to happen and should be rerigged. The rope is under tension and attached directly to slings on both sides of the creek without any biners or lap links. The result of this is for the rope to saw on the slings during each traverse. At minimum run another rope across the river so that if the slings cut, there is a back up rope to keep folks out of the river.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Corn on the Cob (5.10)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crux bolt (2nd) is bent and should be replaced.
|
RSS Feed
