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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 5 days ago
Contact Chris Archer


Point Rank: # 767
Total Points: 839
Last Year: 16
Last 30 Days: 0
33 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Chris Archer been climbing?










Contributions


All 1909 | Routes 33 | Areas 3 | Photos 66 | Page Improvements | Comments 134 | Posts 10 | Stars 901 | Ratings 762
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Psychosis (5.10d PG13)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 1, 2009

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Comments: I hadn't done this route in over 15 years until Saturday and it was terrific. Much better than I remembered with the 3OF 2d pitch var. While 11a for the 3d pitch start seemed generous, 10a for the upper hand crack seemed quite stout. A blue Camalot was the biggest piece of gear we took and it came in handy protecting the crux moves above the roof on 3OF as well as the flare on the 3d pitch direct start. The rest of the rack consisted of RPs (optional), Nuts 1-6, and 2 sets of cams: Aliens - go... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : LAYTON KOR AT NEPTUNES 2 SH...
By: Chris Archer When: Apr 15, 2009

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Comments: Outstanding!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Unbroken Chain (5.11c R)
By: Chris Archer When: Apr 14, 2009

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Comments: Oh man... sorry to see that picture, Scott. Hope your recovery is quick and look fw to seeing you back in Eldo.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : False Prophet (5.11d)
By: Chris Archer When: Feb 10, 2009

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Comments: I'd be happy to help you place the anchor, Adam.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : False Prophet (5.11d)
By: Chris Archer When: Feb 9, 2009

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Comments: Why not submit an application to ACE to do so?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : West Ridge Boulders : West Ridge Traverse (V5)
By: Chris Archer When: Feb 6, 2009

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Comments: Sun until 3:30 PM 6 Feb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Ghetto Cruiser (5.7)
By: Chris Archer When: Nov 24, 2008

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Comments: Surprisingly fun route. Not sure where you'd place the number 4. It is too small for all but the first few feet of the offwidth. More pleasant climbing is had in the dihedral to the left of the OW. Belaying just before heading up and left on the Easy Street ramp will prevent considerable rope drag and provide some shelter from gale force winter winds.

The anchors are not well thought out. The two options are extending the anchors with long slings to lower to the bolts on the top of Untit... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Lower Security Risk : Security Risk (5.9)
By: Chris Archer When: Nov 24, 2008

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Comments: Terrific route, which is the namesake of the two Security Risk formations. It seems odd to grade the route according to the easier and less interesting variations and to describe the variations as the route. The route starts on the 10+ corner. It is not 5.9. IMO the route should be listed and graded as originally climbed, with the easier variations being noted as options. Good gear is available, but strenuous to place on the original first pitch The route gets another star if you run both p... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP
By: Chris Archer When: Nov 17, 2008

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Comments: First Route in Eldorado?

2010 will be the 75th anniversary of the first rock climb in the Gunks: The Old Route at Millbrook, FA by Fritz Weissner, 1935. This got me thinking: what was the first rock climb in Eldorado? As near as I can tell from the guides, the Bastille Crack may have that designation. Jim Erickson placed the first ascent in the early 1950s by US Army climbers. After that there are several routes done in 1956, the most challenging being the Redgarden Route. Does anyone hav... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips
By: Chris Archer When: Nov 13, 2008

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Comments: Thanks for the update, Jason. Just to be certain, how do you know that OSMP owns these crags? Can you post a link to any public records that would establish this? As you know the ownership of land in the Boulder Falls area is often difficult to determine, so it would be good to double check this information.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Interceptor (5.11b R)
By: Chris Archer When: Sep 15, 2008

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Comments: Based solely on the last 2 editions of Rossiter's guides to Eldo (1989 & 2000), the FA is listed as Christian and Dale in 1984 (or perhaps the Kid in '77).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Quiet Desperation (5.11c R)
By: Chris Archer When: Aug 22, 2008

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Comments: Rob, it's an independent line R of Sidewall with better protection than Sidewall's first pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 28, 2008

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Comments: The Edge and Redgarden Wall are now open. The following information was received today from the Park.

Eldorado Canyon State Park wildlife climbing closure lifted

Eldorado Canyon—A seasonal wildlife closure on Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack has been lifted early due to the three chicks fledging. The routes that are now open include: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direc... more >>


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : North Wall : Uckfay Ushbay (5.11a)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 14, 2008

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Comments: Great position and fun moves. This route climbs up dark grey rock to an obvious left facing corner in cream colored rock. The brief crux is encountered starting the corner.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : North Wall : The Bush League (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 14, 2008

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Comments: Terrific route. The opening crux, which can be easily avoided to the left, felt like 12b after some tries working out an inobvious sequence. The second half of the route is among the best in the area. A boulder problem at the 2d bolt off the ledge leads to fun climbing with big moves to big, sometimes hidden, holds. 12a on its own.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Punchbowl : Drive By Shooting (5.11d)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 14, 2008

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Comments: This is a great route and would get 4 stars if not for the serious, 10+ ledge out finish. Don't blow the top.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Punchbowl : Corporate Greed (5.9)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 14, 2008

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Comments: This short route climbs a left-facing dihedral just left of Snipe Hunter (12c). 5 bolts + 2 bolt anchor.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : American Beauty (5.12c)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 30, 2008

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Comments: This is an excellent route. How ironic that a lengthy discussion on chipping should occur in relation to this route, which is not chipped. If this climb were located on a less controversial crag it would be highly regarded and quite popular.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Zeros and Ones (5.11+ PG13)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 6, 2008

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Comments: Sounds interesting, but I'm a bit confused...Is this the 4th pitch of a previous aid climb or a new route?


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Pogue's Cave Area : Prima Donna (5.10b)
By: Chris Archer When: May 12, 2008

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Comments: 4 bolts to anchors.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 4 : The Wild, Wild West (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: May 5, 2008

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Comments: Does any one have any information on the route just right of WWW?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 4 : Pinch A Loaf (5.10b)
By: Chris Archer When: May 5, 2008

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Comments: 4 bolts; optional #1-#1.5 Friend between 2 & 3; unwelded cold shut anchor.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 4 : Ms. Coolie's Saloon aka Kil... (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: May 5, 2008

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Comments: Great route, but why the name change? When I first did this route in '89 or so it was know as Killer Elite. Also, isn't there another route named Ms. Coolie's Saloon on Eldorado Mountain?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon
By: Chris Archer When: Apr 18, 2008

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Comments: Great job on the list, James. A few other guides that also covered Boulder Canyon are Dave Dornan's guide: Rock Climbing Guide to the Boulder Colorado Area, 1961 and 1964 and 5.10 by Pat Ament and Jim Erickson 1972?.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerospace (5.11c)
By: Chris Archer When: Feb 12, 2008

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Comments: I'm not sure I understand Josh's comment. Josh, are you advocating replacing the bolt that pulled or adding a new bolt to the route? Replacing the missing bolt is easily done and it sounds like Steve will be doing that tomorrow.

Some old history: the bolt left of the flake was not an original bolt. The original FA line climbed the natural line of the flake. The bolt was added in the mid to late 80s to force the line onto the face. At the same time the stopper placement prior to the first bolt... more >>


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