Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Quiet Desperation (5.11c R)
By: Chris Archer When: Aug 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rob, it's an independent line R of Sidewall with better protection than Sidewall's first pitch.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Edge and Redgarden Wall are now open. The following information was received today from the Park.
Eldorado Canyon State Park wildlife climbing closure lifted
Eldorado Canyon—A seasonal wildlife closure on Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack has been lifted early due to the three chicks fledging. The routes that are now open include: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direc... more >>
|
Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Leadville : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : North Wall : Uckfay Ushbay (5.11a)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great position and fun moves. This route climbs up dark grey rock to an obvious left facing corner in cream colored rock. The brief crux is encountered starting the corner.
|
Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Leadville : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : North Wall : The Bush League (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Terrific route. The opening crux, which can be easily avoided to the left, felt like 12b after some tries working out an inobvious sequence. The second half of the route is among the best in the area. A boulder problem at the 2d bolt off the ledge leads to fun climbing with big moves to big, sometimes hidden, holds. 12a on its own.
|
Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Leadville : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Punchbowl : Drive By Shooting (5.11d)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route and would get 4 stars if not for the serious, 10+ ledge out finish. Don't blow the top.
|
Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Leadville : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Punchbowl : Corporate Greed (5.9)
By: Chris Archer When: Jul 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This short route climbs a left-facing dihedral just left of Snipe Hunter (12c). 5 bolts + 2 bolt anchor.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : American Beauty (5.12c)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an excellent route. How ironic that a lengthy discussion on chipping should occur in relation to this route, which is not chipped. If this climb were located on a less controversial crag it would be highly regarded and quite popular.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Zeros and Ones (5.11+ PG13)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sounds interesting, but I'm a bit confused...Is this the 4th pitch of a previous aid climb or a new route?
|
Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Pogue's Cave Area : Prima Donna (5.10b)
By: Chris Archer When: May 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: 4 bolts to anchors.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 4 : The Wild, Wild West (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: May 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does any one have any information on the route just right of WWW?
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 4 : Pinch A Loaf (5.10b)
By: Chris Archer When: May 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: 4 bolts; optional #1-#1.5 Friend between 2 & 3; unwelded cold shut anchor.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 4 : Ms. Coolie's Saloon aka Kil... (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: May 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, but why the name change? When I first did this route in '89 or so it was know as Killer Elite. Also, isn't there another route named Ms. Coolie's Saloon on Eldorado Mountain?
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon
By: Chris Archer When: Apr 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great job on the list, James. A few other guides that also covered Boulder Canyon are Dave Dornan's guide: Rock Climbing Guide to the Boulder Colorado Area, 1961 and 1964 and 5.10 by Pat Ament and Jim Erickson 1972?.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerospace (5.11c)
By: Chris Archer When: Feb 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not sure I understand Josh's comment. Josh, are you advocating replacing the bolt that pulled or adding a new bolt to the route? Replacing the missing bolt is easily done and it sounds like Steve will be doing that tomorrow.
Some old history: the bolt left of the flake was not an original bolt. The original FA line climbed the natural line of the flake. The bolt was added in the mid to late 80s to force the line onto the face. At the same time the stopper placement prior to the first bolt... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Art Of Slappiness (5.13b)
By: Chris Archer When: Oct 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very cool! Great job, Chris!
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Long John Wall (5.8)
By: Chris Archer When: Sep 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This weekend, the two trees that have been used for rappels for the descent from Sooberb, Long John Wall, etc., have been replaced with camouflaged double bolt anchors. The first set of anchors from the ledge near the top of the cliff are on the slab just left of the tree and easy to overlook. This location was the best spot for the anchors given the quality of the rock and the pull.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Sooberb (5.10c)
By: Chris Archer When: Sep 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This weekend, the two trees that have been used for rappels for the descent from Sooberb, Long John Wall, etc., have been replaced with camouflaged double bolt anchors. The first set of anchors from the ledge near the top of the cliff are on the slab just left of the tree and easy to overlook. This location was the best spot for the anchors given the quality of the rock and the pull.
|
Location: UT : Maple Canyon
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Early May through mid October is the season. April is climbable if you don't mind postholing.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Wired (5.10a PG13)
By: Chris Archer When: May 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This isn't Right Side.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Right Side? aka Bong Sessio... (5.10c)
By: Chris Archer When: May 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: For decades this route was known as the Right Side. It was first climbed in 1961 by Kor and Northcutt. It was part of the Black Widow trilogy: Left Side, Center and Right Side. It has been documented as such since 1967 in all of Pat Ament's BC guides and Jim Erickson's classic Rocky Heights. It was graded 5.8 in the first High Over Boulder (1967) and stayed there through the second HOB and through 5.10, the Ament Erickson guide. It was upgraded to 5.9 in Rocky Heights (1980). The name change... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Boulder Quartz System (5.12a)
By: Chris Archer When: Jun 6, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thoughtful and pumpy climbing up a unique geologic feature.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Direct North Face (5.11- R)
By: Chris Archer When: Nov 15, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very entertaining and great clues, Steve! Hopefully it will pique the curiosity of a new generation of Eldo history afficionados....but isnt the answer to the last clue a different climb, namely Rosy? I haven't seen the film in many years, but I seem to recal the incident that I think you're referring to occurring on the traverse.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Respite (5.11d)
By: Chris Archer When: Oct 30, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: An excellent, thought provoking climb. The crux is difficult to read on the onsight, but becomes quite reasonable once you know what to do. it felt like 12a on the onsight due to the inobvious nature of the crux, but dropped to 11c on repeat ascents once you know what to do. Doing the route in one pitch is the way to go. 98' to the anchors.There is a hidden bolt just above the handcrack and before the first bolt in the bulge. Knowing this reduces the need for the 3Friend/ gold camalot.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Rock For Climbing Routes To (5.10b)
By: Chris Archer When: Oct 25, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rock for Climbing Routes To is an independent 3 pitch (as originally done) line that begins on the arete left of the first pitch of Break on Through and ends as described here. Perhaps Andy could provide additional FA details.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Evermore (5.12d)
By: Chris Archer When: Sep 6, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great extension to Elanor. The no hands rest on Elanor makes this significantly less pumpy than Nevermore. Still requires creativity for the devious crux. 8 bolts.
|
RSS Feed
