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 at the anchors of devil man


Member Since: May 8, 2009
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
Contact chinos


Point Rank: # 59
Total Points: 5,754
Last Year: 151
Last 30 Days: 36
23 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has chinos been climbing?










Contributions


All 1658 | Routes 302 | Areas 58 | Photos 334 | Page Improvments | Comments 194 | Posts 1 | Stars 659 | Ratings 110
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Beast Alcove and Refuse... : Whack-A-Mole (5.11a/b X)
By: chinos When: 11 hours ago

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Comments: I haven't cleaned it yet, but great to hear the history behind it! I think the bolt is missing or it's hidden under the green carpet somewhere. I will clean it up soon and look for the bolt.! Hope your doing good out there in CO. The east coast crew misses you guys!


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Beast Alcove and Refuse... : Effigy (5.11a/b)
By: chinos When: 11 hours ago

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Comments: Unfortunately it was rap bolted. It would have been a great one to try and hand drill on the lead! It was way to hot, I could barely stay on. I have climbed it again since and wish I had waited for the better temps...
I cleaned it and didn't want to leave it sitting to long, it's cathedral!


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Beast Alcove and Refuse... : Energy Crisis (5.11b R)
By: chinos When: 1 day ago

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Comments: I am going to clean the first pitch soon. hopefully i will be able to get up there and replace the pins as well!


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Beast Alcove and Refuse... : Whack-A-Mole (5.11a/b X)
By: chinos When: 2 days ago

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Comments: also known as sticks and stones.... this area has recently been cleaned! we also updated the bolt on this and the route to the right, Broken Bones (webster) or Piledriver (handren's).
A great top rope. not to many go for the lead tho!


Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Longstack Precipice : Wonderland Wall : Winter Classic (5.10a)
By: chinos When: 2 days ago

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Comments: most of the routes at longstack can go on all gear! i placed the bolts because the rock is grainy inside those cracks. i have ripped gear and seen others blow pieces falling on the harder climbs there and bolts are later added... the flake by the last bolt is very hollow and a fall onto gear in it could result in bad things.
I 100% agree that this could be a trad line tho, let me know how it goes!

The bolts were placed in feb, hence the name, and the cracks were filled with ice!


Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Longstack Precipice : Indigenous Wall : Photo
By: chinos When: Jul 15, 2014

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Comments: Nice jay!
I think the black line is relic tho


Location: NH : Humphrey's Ledge : The Geriatric Walls : New Blood (5.12a/b)
By: chinos When: Jun 15, 2014

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Comments: The crux is bolt protected! I also recall a cam working instead of the tricam?


Location: NH : Humphrey's Ledge : The Wiessner Route Area : Carpe Diem (5.11)
By: chinos When: Apr 26, 2014

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Comments: A nice thin slab route that sat there for way to long! The anchor was placed by another party in a funky spot. I'm going to move it up and left so the rope will run straight and avoid the pointless traverse at the end. This is going to become a popular top rope!

Def 10+!


Location: NH : Carter Ledge : Sachem (5.5)
By: chinos When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: Sachem 5.9 R

This route climbs the right side of the main slab through the obvious headwalls.

P1: start up the featured slab passing a couple small birch trees. Continue up the slab to the left arching corner. Get great gear and pull onto the headwall following a trail of pockets. Pull the crux rock over move onto a lower angle slab and continue up the a headwall with a horizontal crack. Traverse right and belay from the tree. 150' 5.7 R

P2: Pull through the headwall at the crack in front ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Real Hidden Valley
By: chinos When: Feb 17, 2014

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Comments: Feel free to change my descriptions for the area. I was going off my memory. I recall walking left past a couple small outcrops and then dropping down into a ravine with the cliff clearly visible...


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Photo
By: chinos When: Feb 12, 2014

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Comments: great shot!


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Mt. Willard : Left Hand Monkey Wrench (WI3)
By: chinos When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: lower hitchcock option is easiest


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Real Hidden Valley : Upper Wall
By: chinos When: Dec 13, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for adding all of this info for me, Leo. I was going to do it when I added the Real Hidden Valley area but forgot about it over time. I have been busy working on a guide for NH climbing! Thanks again.
I hope to get back out there next season to enjoy the excellent climbing you have in CO!
Cheers,
Jonathan Garlough / chinos


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Real Hidden Valley : Upper Wall : Battle of the Bulge (5.12-)
By: chinos When: Dec 13, 2013

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Comments: Correct. Jonathan Garlough is MP user Chinos.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Real Hidden Valley : Upper Wall : Streakers (5.10 PG13)
By: chinos When: Dec 12, 2013

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Comments: I bolted the line thinking it would be cool staying in the obvious streak direct with the bolts on very thin crimps (5.11+). It turned out to be to contrived with better holds on the right edge of the streak (5.10). It is still easy enough to clip the bolts, but they will be off to the left.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Prestige Worldwide Wall : Mud Bath (5.9+)
By: chinos When: Dec 12, 2013

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Comments: Nice, I started up this when we were setting up the sport routes, but it was so dirty I downclimbed it. I never had time to get back and clean it and add an anchor (I live in NH). Glad to see someone did it. It looked pretty cool....

Give it a name!


Location: NH : Photo
By: chinos When: Dec 11, 2013

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Comments: sure is


Location: NH : The Captain : Puttin' In Time (5.11a/b)
By: chinos When: Dec 6, 2013

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Comments: my friend and i tried to push this thing to the top early this fall. after a climb/bushwhack 5th pitch we were below the final headwall. from below we could see features that looked like great cracks. we started up one of the cracks... kitty litter, at about 30' from the summit we hit a serious patch of kitty litter choss and decided it was crazy to continue. a much harder corner/seam looked like a better finish , but we ran out of time... maybe next year.


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Mount Washington : Huntington Ravine : Northeast Ridge of the Pinn... (5.7) : Photo
By: chinos When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: only if it was really overhanging!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Real Hidden Valley : Real Hidden Valley : Natural Weaknesses (5.8)
By: chinos When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: Nice... we never tried this. A fun area to get away from the crowds!


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Airation Buttress : Camber (5.11b) : Photo
By: chinos When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: its a classic sport pitch!


Location: NH : The Captain : Puttin' In Time (5.11a/b) : Photo
By: chinos When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: sweet! i want to add some of mine as well... i think the first pitch has 4 or 5 bolts on it. the direct start to the right is 5.9R with one bolt and not much gear.


Location: NH : The Captain : Puttin' In Time (5.11a/b) : Photo
By: chinos When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: nice! how did it go? glad to see somebody finally went out there. Great Place! did you get on any others?


Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Longstack Precipice
By: chinos When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: Jay, Alpine Meadows is a private community and it is best to not stir the pot by parking in there. Please park in the areas i have listed in the longstack write up.
Thanks


Location: NH : Crawford Notch : Photo
By: chinos When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: the central slab has bore tide and another bolted route from what i saw up there. the thin slab on the left has the two lines that i posted


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