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El Cajon Mtn. Leonids. 5.9.


Member Since: Aug 22, 2012
Last Visit: Mar 13, 2014
Contact ChaseLeoncini


Point Rank: # 3,061
Total Points: 145
Last Year: 82
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
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All (271) | Routes | Areas | Photos (26) | Comments (15) | Posts (140) | Stars (52) | Ratings (38)

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Blue Sky Wall : Ramp (5.5)
By: ChaseLeoncini When: Sep 29, 2013

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Comments: Easy. Im considering this as my first multi-free-solo. It has huge hands and feet its pretty low angle and considering the bolts are pretty far apart anyway, why not? (Not recommending anyone do this so don't go out thinking, "oh hey he said it's simple and to free-solo!" ... No. )

On another note, i added a pretty interesting 5.6 trad traverse at the top that led me to the top anchor of Leonids. That made the climb more worth while. Single rack. .4-3 if i remember right. The protections there... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Left Wall : Meteor (5.8)
By: ChaseLeoncini When: Sep 29, 2013

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Comments: When youre about to start the traverse consider placing a 3" cam in the crack below the tree and then taking the stair-like rock formation up to the anchor. Its a little less protected (assuming the slinged rock holds) but this way its only about 5.4 climbing. To me slinging the crumbly rock looked sketchy. Id hate to hear that thing break when falling.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : The Trough (5.4)
By: ChaseLeoncini When: Jul 9, 2013

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Comments: Easily 3 pitches by combining pitches 3 and 4 but it becomes very difficult to hear.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Maiden Buttress : White Maiden's Walkaway (5.1)
By: ChaseLeoncini When: Jul 4, 2013

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Comments: This route has tons of variations. If you're trying to stay true to the route from the P1 variation i believe this is how it goes.
P1 (variation): Find the base, Good luck. Lead up to a twisty tree and belay from there.
P2: Go right from the tree and then traverse back left above your belayer; going around the large boulder and up to a pile of large boulders that is right of the crack you follow.
P3: Traverse up the left gully, pass 2 pitons and then cut left to the bush.
P4: Follow up... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Lunch Rock : Beautiful (5.4)
By: ChaseLeoncini When: May 22, 2013

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Comments: This route:
Crux start at 5.6.
Continues up 20 feet through 1-2 pieces at 5.4
Finishing move is about 5.5.
Total route length (crack): 30 ft.
(Top of route is probably 70 ft up)
Great for a first trad lead.
.5" - 1" and a 3. 2 bolt anchor. Climb on.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Valley of the Moon : Patina Wall : Tec-9 (5.10a)
By: ChaseLeoncini When: May 8, 2013

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Comments: I know it's bolts, but i was on this about a month ago and recall a few spinning hangers and one of the lower bolts is in hollow rock. Well protected but be aware of these bolts for extra safety. Climb on.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Lunch Rock : The Ramp (5.7)
By: ChaseLeoncini When: Apr 25, 2013

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Comments: I recently tried to onsight this with a full rack of c4's, a few c3's and a set of bd stoppers and used only 4 cams. If your gonna do this route, double up on small wires and only bring .75 - 3.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Empathy (5.10b)
By: ChaseLeoncini When: Mar 28, 2013

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Comments: Did this climb yesterday, didn't see a fifth bolt like it says but the last 15 foot (possibly where another bolt is missing) is 5.7 climbing. Great climb. Nearly no feet makes it difficult but also easy to see where that one and only foot placement actually is.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Limbo Area : The Tower (5.7)
By: ChaseLeoncini When: Feb 28, 2013

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Comments: ^^There are four bolts on the tower. The first bolt is like 25' up, if you do the face i recommend getting a piece in, someone said theres a spot.. Bolt 2 is fine and Bolt 3 is the bolt at the ledge, falling before clipping this is most likely and i think most dangerous. Bolt 4 is pretty close to bolt 3 and after the crux move your pretty much standing normal. To help theres a really good hold on the left for lie-backing and clipping bolt 3. :)


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Lunch Rock : Skyline Arete (5.7+)
By: ChaseLeoncini When: Nov 27, 2012

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Comments: I love this little route, exposed and beautiful. I tried to lead first try because someone said it was all sport. When i reached the short traverse right w/ no pro i decided to TR. Bring a .75. If not the moves arent too sketchy to clip the first bolt, but whatever you do don't fall. Or just be smart and TR. Have fun!


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Limbo Area : Deviate Behavior (5.11c)
By: ChaseLeoncini When: Sep 23, 2012

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Comments: Warning - anchor point has spinning hangers, a guess would be they werent drilled deep enough. Use caution. 9/22/2012.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Crack of Dust (5.8)
By: ChaseLeoncini When: Sep 21, 2012

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Comments: Warning: the 3 bolt anchor on the wall atop this route (or at the start of 'Never Intended') has two fixed carabiners that have attained severe rope damage due to lowering off of them. Use caution when deciding to use these or replace.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Rock On Right (5.10d)
By: ChaseLeoncini When: Aug 30, 2012

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Comments: As of 8/29/2012, the right bolt at the anchor (i believe it was a rawl stud and a metolius hanger) is loose leaving the nut twistable and the hanger spinning 360 degrees. Use caution, replace, or back up.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Middle Earth : Karmic Relief (5.10a)
By: ChaseLeoncini When: Aug 28, 2012

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Comments: As of August 27th, 2012, there is a large chest size boulder near the top that is coming loose. This boulder has a flake handhold that many may want to grab to pull themselves up over the ledge. Do not pull on this flake! There are other holds to grab. . . . Other than that great route. :) Be safe!


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Suzie's Wild Ride (5.8+)
By: ChaseLeoncini When: Aug 23, 2012

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Comments: Clipping the sixth bolt is a bit difficult hanging on to thin holds and slopey feet but it's really fun. Ive dont at least 25 different routes at the gorge and this is so far my favorite. 5.8+ or 5.9-.