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Cams above the arm bar moves on Three Pigs in a Slot, Indian Creek.


Member Since: Aug 23, 2007
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Charlie S


Point Rank: # 809
Total Points: 736
Last Year: 324
Last 30 Days: 22
8 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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Contributions


All (694) | Routes (15) | Areas (4) | Photos (88) | Comments (86) | Posts (141) | Stars (278) | Ratings (82)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : East Hellgate : ... : Wisky Bench (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 19, 2013

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Comments: The route is significantly cleaner than previous comments suggest. Still some cleaning to go, but it is a worthy and long climb.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : East Hellgate : ... : Antidote (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 19, 2013

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Comments: Apart from the worthless route description, the route is quite good, though the rating is soft.

This route starts just to the left of the pillar at the top of the approach trail. You can get a hand jam in at the beginning for kicks and giggles.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Cecret Lake : ... : GR 6 (5.10-)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 13, 2013

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Comments: Loose rock. Lichen. Rock piles waiting to be dropped on your belayer. Worth it if you're ticking the wall, but otherwise, there are better trad lines on this wall.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Cecret Lake : ... : Stinky Buddy (5.10-)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 13, 2013

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Comments: Another fun one! There is no truth-in-advertising for the very last few moves.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Cecret Lake : ... : Stinky Stash (5.9+)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 13, 2013

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Comments: Found this to be an enjoyable climb with a little mix of everything.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Cecret Lake : ... : GR 2 (5.10)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 13, 2013

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Comments: I nominate this climb be called "Skid Marks," due to the lichen/black streaks on the way up. A fun route with some mentally stimulating gear.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Summit Wall : Triple Overhangs (5.10a) : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Jul 3, 2013

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Comments: We used this topo before heading off on the climb. Many thanks! Made it super clear.

We were able to find and clip both bolts. The "R" section is a mere 15 feet on patina.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Summit Wall : Triple Overhangs (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Jun 29, 2013

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Comments: Found the crux pitch to really be in the #0.75 to #1 range, opening up to #2s for the last overhang and then the 5.8 hand crack portion above it.

We brought 2 #3s, but only used one for the Vertical Smile portion.

An amazing route. The cruxes sure make you winded at 11,000 feet!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - East : Stress Fracture (5.10b PG13)
By: Charlie S When: Jun 16, 2013

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Comments: Very difficult start. Yellow alien up high (work the feet). Get in a marginal hand jam, place a #2, and then you can completely pull the start.

For the roof, place a #3 at the beginning. And then although it looks scary, trust the face holds, and move out to the lip of the roof. At the lip, place a #4. Bump it as you move up! Otherwise, the rope will get stuck between the cam and the rock. I did that with a #5, and it was a royal hassle to free the rope. Save som... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - East : Beauty and the Beast (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Jun 16, 2013

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Comments: Well, there's now a near perma-nut at the top of the starting crack. Didn't fall on it, but trying to budge it out with rocks, hexes, and yanks did nothing. Would definitely catch a fall. Enjoy the booty if you can get it out!


Location: UT : Public Comments needed on L...
By: Charlie S When: Jun 7, 2013

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Comments: I sent a message to the SLCA saying the same thing.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Charlie's Pillar (5.8)
By: Charlie S When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: Misled by the guidebook, I took the offwidth start as opposed to the flake start. Does this have its own first ascent? It was good with fun chimneying and a full-on body jam near where the flake and larger crack meet up. Would suggest 5.9+ish for the "direct" start.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : The Potato (5.10)
By: Charlie S When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: Second loose block has been removed as of 5/25/2013. After it ate 3 of my fingers.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Unnamed 5.10 - just after t... (5.10)
By: Charlie S When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: No, the photo currently posted is not Linkage. This route sits around the right of a large detached flake/block/pillar. Right before the flake/block/pillar reads a plaque: "Knobby Tires." Since Linkage is to the left of Knobby Tires, this can't be Linkage.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Linkage (5.10b/c)
By: Charlie S When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: No, the photo currently posted is not Linkage. This route sits around the right of a large detached flake/block/pillar. Right before the flake/block/pillar reads a plaque: "Knobby Tires." Since Linkage is to the left of Knobby Tires, this can't be Linkage.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Owl Rock : Owl Rock - West : Snack Break Direct (5.8)
By: Charlie S When: May 12, 2013

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Comments: The photo for this goes to "Snack Break," not Snack Break Direct. There is a bolted line about 10 feet to the left. 3 bolts, unless you find a way to get cams in somewhere.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Owl Rock : Owl Rock - West : Night Vision (5.10b PG13)
By: Charlie S When: May 12, 2013

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Comments: The "PG13" rating refers to the 25 or so feet from your last piece of trad gear to the next bolt.

The boulder start requires fine footwork, but a good stance can be made about 15' up to place a Black Alien (or equivalent) into the overhanging crack, followed shortly thereafter by a series of nut and cam options. Height helps. This would be difficult/committing for shorter individuals.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area
By: Charlie S When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: It is possible to rap the entire buttress down the main face using double 60m ropes. Some are a stretch, and the first couple of raps are so low angle that you'll be fighting with the rope.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Ramp Routes : FDR (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: Fun moves and good protection. Would be a great intro to 5.10 leading.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Touch Up (5.9+)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 30, 2013

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Comments: Excellent climb! Found exiting the hand traverse on the 2nd pitch rather unique. Perhaps because I had mantled it, and making the walk around the arete puts you off balance.

Highly recommended, easy to protect.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sparks Wall : Sparkling Schnitzel (5.11-)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 17, 2013

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Comments: I found a #5 to be useful at the wide portion 8' below the chains.

Also found that racking most of the large gear on your right side was helpful.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Unnamed 5.10 - just after t... (5.10)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 17, 2013

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Comments: Definitely agree this is closer to 80' long.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 17, 2013

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Comments: When reading these comments, I thought that people claiming it was harder than 5.9 were soft.

Well, I was wrong. Expect to be pushed!

Also, double racks was too much gear. I took a #5, which was placed on all the pitches except the 3rd pitch.

Gear that I used:
1 Black Alien (directional on top of P3)
1 Yellow Alien
1 Red Alien
1 Red Metolius (for building an anchor at the top, not necessarily needed)
1 BD #.5
1 BD #.75
1 BD #1
1 BD #2
1 BD #3
1 BD #... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : 9th Street : Edge of Madness (5.11c)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 10, 2013

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Comments: A great climb. Had a fun time working the moves. A worthy goal.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : Hole in the Rock : Chicken Wire (5.8)
By: Charlie S When: Oct 20, 2012

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Comments: This is a very fun sport route. You can clip the wires to make it a 4-"bolt" route. The crux is well protected. Would give it a G-rating for protection.


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