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Cams above the arm bar moves on Three Pigs in a Sl...


Member Since: Aug 23, 2007
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Point Rank: # 621
Total Points: 1,049
Last Year: 319
Last 30 Days: 61
15 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1003 | Routes 20 | Areas 4 | Photos 133 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 122 | Posts 213 | Stars 407 | Ratings 103
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Wheels on Fire (5.9)
By: Charlie S When: 1 hour ago

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Comments: I agree with Aerili on this. The direct version might be easier, too. The direct is more classic, in my opinion.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : West Buttress - South : Drew's Corner (5.9) : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: Thanks, Dave. If I understand correctly then, the climber is on Bone Crack in this case? Kind of funny to have a climb called "Drew's Corner/Dihedral" which goes up a face, but stranger things have happened!


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : West Buttress - South : Drew's Corner (5.9)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 7, 2015

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Comments: There appears to be some confusion as to the location of Bone Crack and Drew's Corner. Drew's corner description clearly says "one bolt and gear" which this route fits. However, the line drawn in the guidebook seems to indicate that this arching crack is Bone Crack. The line drawn for Drew's Corner seems to be going straight up the face.

Based on descriptions and shared anchors, I'd speculate that this is indeed Drew's Corner, with Bone Crack over to the left a few more feet.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : Twinkie (5.10c)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 7, 2015

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Comments: Another vote for doing all 3 pitches. Stellar! Fantastic climbing the whole way.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Asbury Park : ... : The Traditionalist (5.11d)
By: Charlie S When: Feb 25, 2015

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Comments: This route can be broken into 3 distinct sections:
1, a powerful set of moves to pull the overhang,
2, a tenuous, albeit fun, middle crack section, and finally,
3, an incredibly strong and cryptic set of moves to pull the final bulge followed by easy but "don't screw up" climbing to the chains.

May be a sandbag at 5.11d, using the moves from Bound for Glory (5.12b) and Pocket Loverboy (5.11c) as a comparison.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : Patina Atoll (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Feb 14, 2015

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Comments: So good! Every crux was memorable and required some element of thinking.

You don't need gear for the top if you don't want to haul it. Once you get off of the rib, there's about 30' to the next bolt before chains, but the climbing is probably around 5.4.

However, the space between bolts #2 and #3 is...spacious!


Location: UT : Saint George : Utah Hills : The Snakepit : Sega (5.10)
By: Charlie S When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: The Goss guidebook suggests 5.11a. I'd go at 5.10+...ish. A few interesting moves but nothing in the 5.11 territory. Feet are nice and sticky.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Gordon's Direct (5.11b R)
By: Charlie S When: Jan 7, 2015

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Comments: This is a really good route. Don't worry about the 5.9R section. It's straightforward and "juggy" compared to nearly all the other 5.9s in the immediate vicinity.

BETA ALERT:

The crux isn't the reach, but rather, getting to it. Two falls at this point. A nice clean ride into space!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Asbury Park : ... : Detroit Muscle (5.12b)
By: Charlie S When: Dec 6, 2014

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Comments: This route could benefit from another bolt at the second roof. Or is natural protection supposed to be placed here? The climbing above isn't that bad, but you're in ground-fall territory before reaching the next bolt.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Asbury Park : ... : E Street (5.10c)
By: Charlie S When: Dec 6, 2014

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Comments: After finally getting the redpoint, I'd agree. This is a great route and isn't that strenuous on a high friction day. Quality stemming!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Ramp Routes : Catharsis (5.9)
By: Charlie S When: Dec 6, 2014

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Comments: I found this stout for a 5.9. A surprise, given that some of the other routes at Asbury feel soft. The moves are good but make sure your gear is too.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lizard Head Wall : Errant Edge (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Nov 11, 2014

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Comments: A climb most suited for a cold day. Interesting moves the whole way.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Public Service Wall : Unknown 15 feet R of light ... (5.11-)
By: Charlie S When: Oct 26, 2014

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Comments: This route is a lot of fun and great practice for the size!

But 2 stars because the rock quality at the top is questionable. Pulled off a large piece...have your belayer stand to climber's right for the final moves.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Eagle Rock : Eagle Crack (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: It's so good! Probably mostly 5.9 with a distinct 5.10a crux and maybe a few other smattered in there but not as obvious. Protects well and incredibly fun.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Glass Ocean and Environs : Lord of the Long Arms (5.9+)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 19, 2014

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Comments: Will second the opinion that it's actually a good climb. Good holds hide on quartzite! I used a #1 and a black alien to protect the upper section, although you really have many options.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Wheeler-Newsome Wall : Tick Fever (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 6, 2014

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Comments: I succumbed to the tick fever today. Would be interested in hearing how others did the crux. I eventually worked out the crux sequence after the fact, but wow, is it burly! Will have to go back for the RP.

Video of my attempt here (most of it is played at 16x with the exception of the fall):



Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Early Bird : Bed Head (5.9+)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 6, 2014

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Comments: Well, it's worth it for the finishing move. And it's a few pounds cleaner today after my friend and I pulled and pushed rock off of it while climbing.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Loch Ness Monster (5.10d)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 1, 2014

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Comments: Not sure it's worth the effort. Good if you need one more burn after rappelling the buttress, but beyond that, there's not much.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Ginseng (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 1, 2014

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Comments: I believe the initial "barn door" moves as described in the guidebook were for when the anchor was not present. The crack above takes standard nuts or a green alien down low, opening up to a nice #0.3-#0.4 at the top before the final opening moves.

The crux is short and ends at a glory jug. Sew it up or gun for it!

The climb is definitely worthy and a great alternative if Sasquatch has a queue.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Buzzard Perch : Terror of Tiny Town (5.11a/b)
By: Charlie S When: Aug 25, 2014

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Comments: An awesome route. Can't compare it to other 11s as this was my first City 11a.

The gear beta is spot on. Unfortunately I missed the "#2 for the top" section and had to go for it on a poorly placed small nut.

Heavy on the small stuff down low. I'm a total pansy and placed 13 pieces total for this climb, 3 of which were backups to probably ok pieces.

Beta alert:

There are 2-3 totally locker finger jams/constrictions about every 10 feet after the initial boulder problem, followed by a ... more >>


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Pingora : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the beta. I'll have to try that next time.

FYI, the questionable anchor with one sling and biner is no more as of July 2014.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Boulder Field : Upper Boulder Field : ... : Lowe 1 (V3)
By: Charlie S When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: Beta video:




Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Plumb Line (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: There is a bees nest in the traverse jugs. Thankfully they weren't irritable, but use caution.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Wolfs Head : East Ridge (5.6)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 26, 2014

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Comments: This climb took us 12 hours tent-to-tent. 1.25 hours of approaching, 7.75 hours of climbing, and 4 hours of descending. The descent is not trivial. Watch out for (massive!) loose blocks will become easily dislodged and kill someone if a group is below you.

There's a little of everything on this route. Be prepared and climb as efficiently as possible.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Pingora : Northeast Face (5.8+)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 26, 2014

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Comments: Yet another vote for the BrutusOfWyde topo from Summitpost. Between that and studying a number of pictures available online, sticking to the route was easier than expected.

This is a cool route up a cool rock in a very cool setting. I used literally every anchor building technique I'd ever learned on this route. It is not for the budding 5.8 climber. Efficiency and proficiency are key to summiting in a reasonable amount of time.


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