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Cams above the arm bar moves on Three Pigs in a Sl...


Member Since: Aug 23, 2007
Last Visit: 9 mins ago
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Point Rank: # 679
Total Points: 947
Last Year: 314
Last 30 Days: 41
13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 908 | Routes 19 | Areas 4 | Photos 116 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 114 | Posts 194 | Stars 367 | Ratings 93
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Asbury Park : ... : Detroit Muscle (5.12b)
By: Charlie S When: Dec 6, 2014

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Comments: This route could benefit from another bolt at the second roof. Or is natural protection supposed to be placed here? The climbing above isn't that bad, but you're in ground-fall territory before reaching the next bolt.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Asbury Park : ... : E Street (5.10c)
By: Charlie S When: Dec 6, 2014

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Comments: After finally getting the redpoint, I'd agree. This is a great route and isn't that strenuous on a high friction day. Quality stemming!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Ramp Routes : Catharsis (5.9)
By: Charlie S When: Dec 6, 2014

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Comments: I found this stout for a 5.9. A surprise, given that some of the other routes at Asbury feel soft. The moves are good but make sure your gear is too.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lizard Head Wall : Errant Edge (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Nov 11, 2014

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Comments: A climb most suited for a cold day. Interesting moves the whole way.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Public Service Wall : Unknown 15 feet R of light ... (5.11-)
By: Charlie S When: Oct 26, 2014

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Comments: This route is a lot of fun and great practice for the size!

But 2 stars because the rock quality at the top is questionable. Pulled off a large piece...have your belayer stand to climber's right for the final moves.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Eagle Rock : Eagle Crack (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: It's so good! Probably mostly 5.9 with a distinct 5.10a crux and maybe a few other smattered in there but not as obvious. Protects well and incredibly fun.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Glass Ocean and Environs : Lord of the Long Arms (5.9+)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 19, 2014

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Comments: Will second the opinion that it's actually a good climb. Good holds hide on quartzite! I used a #1 and a black alien to protect the upper section, although you really have many options.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Wheeler-Newsome Wall : Tick Fever (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 6, 2014

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Comments: I succumbed to the tick fever today. Would be interested in hearing how others did the crux. I eventually worked out the crux sequence after the fact, but wow, is it burly! Will have to go back for the RP.

Video of my attempt here (most of it is played at 16x with the exception of the fall):



Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Early Bird : Bed Head (5.9+)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 6, 2014

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Comments: Well, it's worth it for the finishing move. And it's a few pounds cleaner today after my friend and I pulled and pushed rock off of it while climbing.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Loch Ness Monster (5.10d)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 1, 2014

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Comments: Not sure it's worth the effort. Good if you need one more burn after rappelling the buttress, but beyond that, there's not much.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Ginseng (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 1, 2014

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Comments: I believe the initial "barn door" moves as described in the guidebook were for when the anchor was not present. The crack above takes standard nuts or a green alien down low, opening up to a nice #0.3-#0.4 at the top before the final opening moves.

The crux is short and ends at a glory jug. Sew it up or gun for it!

The climb is definitely worthy and a great alternative if Sasquatch has a queue.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Buzzard Perch : Terror of Tiny Town (5.11a/b)
By: Charlie S When: Aug 25, 2014

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Comments: An awesome route. Can't compare it to other 11s as this was my first City 11a.

The gear beta is spot on. Unfortunately I missed the "#2 for the top" section and had to go for it on a poorly placed small nut.

Heavy on the small stuff down low. I'm a total pansy and placed 13 pieces total for this climb, 3 of which were backups to probably ok pieces.

Beta alert:

There are 2-3 totally locker finger jams/constrictions about every 10 feet after the initial boulder problem, followed by a ... more >>


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Pingora : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the beta. I'll have to try that next time.

FYI, the questionable anchor with one sling and biner is no more as of July 2014.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Boulder Field : Upper Boulder Field : ... : Lowe 1 (V3)
By: Charlie S When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: Beta video:




Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Plumb Line (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: There is a bees nest in the traverse jugs. Thankfully they weren't irritable, but use caution.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Wolfs Head : East Ridge (5.6)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 26, 2014

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Comments: This climb took us 12 hours tent-to-tent. 1.25 hours of approaching, 7.75 hours of climbing, and 4 hours of descending. The descent is not trivial. Watch out for (massive!) loose blocks will become easily dislodged and kill someone if a group is below you.

There's a little of everything on this route. Be prepared and climb as efficiently as possible.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Pingora : Northeast Face (5.8+)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 26, 2014

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Comments: Yet another vote for the BrutusOfWyde topo from Summitpost. Between that and studying a number of pictures available online, sticking to the route was easier than expected.

This is a cool route up a cool rock in a very cool setting. I used literally every anchor building technique I'd ever learned on this route. It is not for the budding 5.8 climber. Efficiency and proficiency are key to summiting in a reasonable amount of time.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Question Mark Wall : Out of the Question (5.10b)
By: Charlie S When: Jun 29, 2014

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Comments: An amazing route! Really cool to climb through the question mark.

Beta alert:

The 10a crux is not that bad. The 10b crux above it is spicy. Make sure your first cam or nut in that dihedral is bomber. It's a long way to the next good handhold and protection.

The book indicates that the second pitch crux is after the piton. This is incorrect: the piton marks the end of the crux.

There are more than two bolts on the face above the 2nd pitch crux. Choose wisely or make a nice zig-zagging l... more >>


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : Blind Pig (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Jun 7, 2014

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Comments: Definitely worth more than the one star it's given in the guidebook.

Didn't find cam or nut placements necessary. Some hunting will reveal secure feet. Way to save the crux for the last 10 feet of the climb! Good, long climb.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Tiny Town : Tiny Town Pillar (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Jun 7, 2014

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Comments: Heady. The largest piece was a BD #0.75 near the beginning in the vertical crack.

For the belay, go up and over, sling a patina plate and then use two blue alien sized pieces in the crack. Can't see your climber, but the corridors carry voices very easily.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : 5.8 Wall : Left 2 (5.8+ R)
By: Charlie S When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: Stout for a supposed beginner area, but probably a realistic grade.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : 5.8 Wall : Left 3 (5.9+ X)
By: Charlie S When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: If you try to lead this, it will be a 30-foot X slab climb. Fun and intricate slab climb, but definitely a TR only climb.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : Eldorado
By: Charlie S When: May 31, 2014

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Comments: Would it be possible to get the coordinates for this crag? Took the cams for a walk looking for it. Ended up coming WAY short, but a general idea would be awesome.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Cathedral : Monogamy (5.7)
By: Charlie S When: May 31, 2014

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Comments: It appears as if the bolts were replaced sometime in the 2012 window. Solid bolts the whole way. New anchors as of 2012.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Cathedral : Devil Tree (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: May 31, 2014

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Comments: I stayed off of this route for a long time because of the comments and reputation. Today I got on it, and found it to be an enjoyable line, though committing the whole way.

The starting crack lends itself to a solid cam and then a nut/constriction placement only a foot higher. Given the texture (smooth), the nut was probably the better piece.

The route is sustained and has 3 distinct cruxes. Each one ends with a "jug," some better than others. The final mantle is sure to make you think car... more >>


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