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Cams above the arm bar moves on Three Pigs in a Sl...


Member Since: Aug 23, 2007
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 708
Total Points: 914
Last Year: 299
Last 30 Days: 29
13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Charlie S been climbing?










Contributions


All 895 | Routes 17 | Areas 4 | Photos 114 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 111 | Posts 190 | Stars 365 | Ratings 93
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : Blind Pig (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Jun 7, 2014

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Comments: Definitely worth more than the one star it's given in the guidebook.

Didn't find cam or nut placements necessary. Some hunting will reveal secure feet. Way to save the crux for the last 10 feet of the climb! Good, long climb.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Tiny Town : Tiny Town Pillar (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Jun 7, 2014

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Comments: Heady. The largest piece was a BD #0.75 near the beginning in the vertical crack.

For the belay, go up and over, sling a patina plate and then use two blue alien sized pieces in the crack. Can't see your climber, but the corridors carry voices very easily.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : 5.8 Wall : Left 2 (5.8+ R)
By: Charlie S When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: Stout for a supposed beginner area, but probably a realistic grade.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : 5.8 Wall : Left 3 (5.9+ X)
By: Charlie S When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: If you try to lead this, it will be a 30-foot X slab climb. Fun and intricate slab climb, but definitely a TR only climb.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : Eldorado
By: Charlie S When: May 31, 2014

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Comments: Would it be possible to get the coordinates for this crag? Took the cams for a walk looking for it. Ended up coming WAY short, but a general idea would be awesome.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Cathedral : Monogamy (5.7)
By: Charlie S When: May 31, 2014

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Comments: It appears as if the bolts were replaced sometime in the 2012 window. Solid bolts the whole way. New anchors as of 2012.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Cathedral : Devil Tree (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: May 31, 2014

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Comments: I stayed off of this route for a long time because of the comments and reputation. Today I got on it, and found it to be an enjoyable line, though committing the whole way.

The starting crack lends itself to a solid cam and then a nut/constriction placement only a foot higher. Given the texture (smooth), the nut was probably the better piece.

The route is sustained and has 3 distinct cruxes. Each one ends with a "jug," some better than others. The final mantle is sure to make you think car... more >>


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Bear Hollow Wall : Photo
By: Charlie S When: May 17, 2014

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Comments: These are the routes whose location I am sure of. There are a few others but I don't want to lead anyone astray.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Stormy Resurrection (5.11b)
By: Charlie S When: May 3, 2014

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Comments: This climb has a little of everything! Found the aforementioned gear to be right on.

The Ruckman guidebook only gives this 1 of out 3 stars, but the MP consensus 3 out of 4 is definitely more on target. Get on it!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : 9th Street : That's a Noyce Rock (5.7)
By: Charlie S When: Apr 30, 2014

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Comments: My vote for a name is "That's a Noyce Rock."


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Hefe Weissen (5.10)
By: Charlie S When: Apr 27, 2014

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Comments: Gear for the not-so-solid-on-jams types:

2 #1's
2 #2's
3 #3's
2 #4's

Longer than it looks. The fists are interesting because of the dihedral.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Sunnyside Crags : Water Dog (5.11c)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: Fun, but chossy roof. Make sure your belayer isn't standing too close to the wall.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Sunnyside Crags : Bad Day at Black Rocks (5.10b)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: After clipping the first bolt, move left. Going to the right puts you on chossy rock (which broke on me).

Sparse gear unless you can hang on to one pad edges while working with small wires. Good holds can be found for rests but do not provide reasonable protection.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Tree Crack Area : Tree Crack (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: Climbs like a face climb with the crack for protection.


Location: Charlie S : Climbing Pictures : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Mar 13, 2014

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Comments: Thanks! Photo taken by Sean Smith.

facebook.com/sasmithphotograph...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : All Chalk And No Action (5.12a)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 8, 2014

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Comments: Fell off of the second bolt several times today. It held. Can't say it looked the best, but it did hold.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Maverick Buttress : Gunsmoke (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Feb 16, 2014

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Comments: Bring a number of 0.75's for the final section. I brought 3 and placed two. I'm also a total chicken on sandstone lieback.

If you're light on the 3's, you can coax a #4 in on the starting 30 feet. A handful of 1's, 4-5 #2s, 1 #0.5, and 3-4 #3's.

A nice long route. A 70m will get you back down to the starting ledge with length to spare.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Maverick Buttress : Tequila Sunrise (5.10d)
By: Charlie S When: Feb 16, 2014

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Comments: A curious rattly-fingers starting crux leads to glorious jamming all the way to the top. Do it!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : The Flakes (5.10b)
By: Charlie S When: Nov 29, 2013

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Comments: If only one wasn't so exhausted from the three approach pitches!

Seriously, if these were the first and second pitches straight off of the ground, there would be a line a mile long every weekend. A very worthy climb with fun moves.

I used singles in every size from #0.5-#5, except #2 which I used 2 of.

A 2nd #3 might have been nice, but not necessary.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Only Human Var. (5.9)
By: Charlie S When: Nov 29, 2013

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Comments: This seemed harder than Plasma, but probably because it is sustained.

Cool chimney feature. I placed a #1 in the far back and up high with a double-length runner. After that it was tricky feet to reach the chicken head and then regain the lieback section of the crack.

Watch the groove at the very top as you transition to the slab. It will trap a rope.

The slab above is spicy. Have fun!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Plasma (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Nov 29, 2013

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Comments: Found this route to be a one-move wonder. Although you can get two cams in at the very start of the undercling, you're still in ankle tweaking territory until your feet get established 5 feet off the ledge.

Once you're on the diorite, it's a cake walk past there.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress : Coffin Roof (5.12) : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Wow, 5.12 in a swami belt! Hardcore!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Wheels on Fire Direct (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Sure, you can layback, but creative jamming and footwork can go a long way too.

The gear at the crux is awesome. Go for it! The bottom half is standard LCC flaring butt crack. But there are a few sections which take nuts very well.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : The Naked and Dead (5.10 R) : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: Cool picture, but this picture is associated with The Naked and the Dead Variation (5.11)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : Coyne Crack (5.11d)
By: Charlie S When: Oct 19, 2013

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Comments: A totally awesome climb.

I got on this hoping to push myself since 5.11d is clearly out of my onsight or even single fall range. No, multiple falls were taken. But the great thing about this crack is that it protects well.

A lesson in pain tolerance and endurance (for us mere mortals who are still putzing around in the 5.10 range). I'm not sure the complaints about it being too short are warranted; it was plenty long for me!

A few notes:
1, approach from The Thumb gully, rope up ... more >>


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