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Cams above the arm bar moves on Three Pigs in a Sl...


Member Since: Aug 23, 2007
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 681
Total Points: 947
Last Year: 314
Last 30 Days: 41
13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 910 | Routes 19 | Areas 4 | Photos 116 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 114 | Posts 196 | Stars 367 | Ratings 93
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: ID : City of Rocks : Buzzard Perch : Terror of Tiny Town (5.11a/b)
By: Charlie S When: Aug 25, 2014

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Comments: An awesome route. Can't compare it to other 11s as this was my first City 11a.

The gear beta is spot on. Unfortunately I missed the "#2 for the top" section and had to go for it on a poorly placed small nut.

Heavy on the small stuff down low. I'm a total pansy and placed 13 pieces total for this climb, 3 of which were backups to probably ok pieces.

Beta alert:

There are 2-3 totally locker finger jams/constrictions about every 10 feet after the initial boulder problem, followed by a ... more >>


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Pingora : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the beta. I'll have to try that next time.

FYI, the questionable anchor with one sling and biner is no more as of July 2014.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Boulder Field : Upper Boulder Field : ... : Lowe 1 (V3)
By: Charlie S When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: Beta video:




Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Plumb Line (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: There is a bees nest in the traverse jugs. Thankfully they weren't irritable, but use caution.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Wolfs Head : East Ridge (5.6)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 26, 2014

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Comments: This climb took us 12 hours tent-to-tent. 1.25 hours of approaching, 7.75 hours of climbing, and 4 hours of descending. The descent is not trivial. Watch out for (massive!) loose blocks will become easily dislodged and kill someone if a group is below you.

There's a little of everything on this route. Be prepared and climb as efficiently as possible.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Pingora : Northeast Face (5.8+)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 26, 2014

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Comments: Yet another vote for the BrutusOfWyde topo from Summitpost. Between that and studying a number of pictures available online, sticking to the route was easier than expected.

This is a cool route up a cool rock in a very cool setting. I used literally every anchor building technique I'd ever learned on this route. It is not for the budding 5.8 climber. Efficiency and proficiency are key to summiting in a reasonable amount of time.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Question Mark Wall : Out of the Question (5.10b)
By: Charlie S When: Jun 29, 2014

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Comments: An amazing route! Really cool to climb through the question mark.

Beta alert:

The 10a crux is not that bad. The 10b crux above it is spicy. Make sure your first cam or nut in that dihedral is bomber. It's a long way to the next good handhold and protection.

The book indicates that the second pitch crux is after the piton. This is incorrect: the piton marks the end of the crux.

There are more than two bolts on the face above the 2nd pitch crux. Choose wisely or make a nice zig-zagging l... more >>


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : Blind Pig (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Jun 7, 2014

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Comments: Definitely worth more than the one star it's given in the guidebook.

Didn't find cam or nut placements necessary. Some hunting will reveal secure feet. Way to save the crux for the last 10 feet of the climb! Good, long climb.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Tiny Town : Tiny Town Pillar (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Jun 7, 2014

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Comments: Heady. The largest piece was a BD #0.75 near the beginning in the vertical crack.

For the belay, go up and over, sling a patina plate and then use two blue alien sized pieces in the crack. Can't see your climber, but the corridors carry voices very easily.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : 5.8 Wall : Left 2 (5.8+ R)
By: Charlie S When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: Stout for a supposed beginner area, but probably a realistic grade.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : 5.8 Wall : Left 3 (5.9+ X)
By: Charlie S When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: If you try to lead this, it will be a 30-foot X slab climb. Fun and intricate slab climb, but definitely a TR only climb.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : Eldorado
By: Charlie S When: May 31, 2014

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Comments: Would it be possible to get the coordinates for this crag? Took the cams for a walk looking for it. Ended up coming WAY short, but a general idea would be awesome.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Cathedral : Monogamy (5.7)
By: Charlie S When: May 31, 2014

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Comments: It appears as if the bolts were replaced sometime in the 2012 window. Solid bolts the whole way. New anchors as of 2012.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Cathedral : Devil Tree (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: May 31, 2014

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Comments: I stayed off of this route for a long time because of the comments and reputation. Today I got on it, and found it to be an enjoyable line, though committing the whole way.

The starting crack lends itself to a solid cam and then a nut/constriction placement only a foot higher. Given the texture (smooth), the nut was probably the better piece.

The route is sustained and has 3 distinct cruxes. Each one ends with a "jug," some better than others. The final mantle is sure to make you think car... more >>


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Bear Hollow Wall : Photo
By: Charlie S When: May 17, 2014

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Comments: These are the routes whose location I am sure of. There are a few others but I don't want to lead anyone astray.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Stormy Resurrection (5.11b)
By: Charlie S When: May 3, 2014

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Comments: This climb has a little of everything! Found the aforementioned gear to be right on.

The Ruckman guidebook only gives this 1 of out 3 stars, but the MP consensus 3 out of 4 is definitely more on target. Get on it!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : 9th Street : That's a Noyce Rock (5.7)
By: Charlie S When: Apr 30, 2014

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Comments: My vote for a name is "That's a Noyce Rock."


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Hefe Weissen (5.10)
By: Charlie S When: Apr 27, 2014

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Comments: Gear for the not-so-solid-on-jams types:

2 #1's
2 #2's
3 #3's
2 #4's

Longer than it looks. The fists are interesting because of the dihedral.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Sunnyside Crags : Water Dog (5.11c)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: Fun, but chossy roof. Make sure your belayer isn't standing too close to the wall.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Sunnyside Crags : Bad Day at Black Rocks (5.10b)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: After clipping the first bolt, move left. Going to the right puts you on chossy rock (which broke on me).

Sparse gear unless you can hang on to one pad edges while working with small wires. Good holds can be found for rests but do not provide reasonable protection.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Tree Crack Area : Tree Crack (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: Climbs like a face climb with the crack for protection.


Location: Charlie S : Climbing Pictures : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Mar 13, 2014

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Comments: Thanks! Photo taken by Sean Smith.

facebook.com/sasmithphotograph...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : All Chalk And No Action (5.12a)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 8, 2014

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Comments: Fell off of the second bolt several times today. It held. Can't say it looked the best, but it did hold.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Maverick Buttress : Gunsmoke (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Feb 16, 2014

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Comments: Bring a number of 0.75's for the final section. I brought 3 and placed two. I'm also a total chicken on sandstone lieback.

If you're light on the 3's, you can coax a #4 in on the starting 30 feet. A handful of 1's, 4-5 #2s, 1 #0.5, and 3-4 #3's.

A nice long route. A 70m will get you back down to the starting ledge with length to spare.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Maverick Buttress : Tequila Sunrise (5.10d)
By: Charlie S When: Feb 16, 2014

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Comments: A curious rattly-fingers starting crux leads to glorious jamming all the way to the top. Do it!


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