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Cams above the arm bar moves on Three Pigs in a Sl...


Member Since: Aug 23, 2007
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 679
Total Points: 947
Last Year: 314
Last 30 Days: 41
13 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Charlie S been climbing?










Contributions


All 908 | Routes 19 | Areas 4 | Photos 116 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 114 | Posts 194 | Stars 367 | Ratings 93
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Deformed bolts #2

Deformed bolts #2

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Comment

Jun 26, 2011

Deformed bolts #1

Deformed bolts #1

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Comment

Jun 26, 2011

Bushwhack Crack, LCC, Utah

Bushwhack Crack, LCC, Utah

Charlie S : Climbing Pictures

Jul 26, 2009

The crack to the lower right is the top of the 5.1...

The crack to the lower right is the top of the 5.10 TR climb "Toiling Men." Since I didn't climb it, I won't post a description. Oh yeah, you can also camp up there.

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Right of Ladder

May 29, 2008

Right Buttress from Left Buttress

Right Buttress from Left Buttress

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Right of Ladder

May 29, 2008

The top of Pond View Slab

The top of Pond View Slab

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Pond View Slab

May 29, 2008

Crane Mountain Pond from Pond View Slab

Crane Mountain Pond from Pond View Slab

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Crane Mountain

May 29, 2008

Crane Mountain Pond in the morning.

Crane Mountain Pond in the morning.

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Crane Mountain

May 29, 2008

Crane Mountain from Crane Mountain Pond.

Crane Mountain from Crane Mountain Pond.

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Crane Mountain

May 29, 2008

So close, but still not close enough.

So close, but still not close enough.

NY : Little Falls : ... : Spiderman (5.11d)

Dec 15, 2007

The top of the roof is the crux.

The top of the roof is the crux.

NY : Little Falls : ... : Spiderman (5.11d)

Dec 15, 2007

Rappelling off the top.

Rappelling off the top.

NY : Little Falls : ... : Spiderman (5.11d)

Dec 15, 2007

Spiderman from the side.  Unsuccessful attempt.

Spiderman from the side. Unsuccessful attempt.

NY : Little Falls : ... : Spiderman (5.11d)

Dec 15, 2007

End of the first pitch of Jackie

End of the first pitch of Jackie

Charlie S : Climbing Pictures

Dec 15, 2007

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Asbury Park : ... : Detroit Muscle (5.12b)
By: Charlie S When: Dec 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This route could benefit from another bolt at the second roof. Or is natural protection supposed to be placed here? The climbing above isn't that bad, but you're in ground-fall territory before reaching the next bolt.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Asbury Park : ... : E Street (5.10c)
By: Charlie S When: Dec 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: After finally getting the redpoint, I'd agree. This is a great route and isn't that strenuous on a high friction day. Quality stemming!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Ramp Routes : Catharsis (5.9)
By: Charlie S When: Dec 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I found this stout for a 5.9. A surprise, given that some of the other routes at Asbury feel soft. The moves are good but make sure your gear is too.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lizard Head Wall : Errant Edge (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Nov 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A climb most suited for a cold day. Interesting moves the whole way.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Public Service Wall : Unknown 15 feet R of light ... (5.11-)
By: Charlie S When: Oct 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This route is a lot of fun and great practice for the size!

But 2 stars because the rock quality at the top is questionable. Pulled off a large piece...have your belayer stand to climber's right for the final moves.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Eagle Rock : Eagle Crack (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: It's so good! Probably mostly 5.9 with a distinct 5.10a crux and maybe a few other smattered in there but not as obvious. Protects well and incredibly fun.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Glass Ocean and Environs : Lord of the Long Arms (5.9+)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 19, 2014

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Comments: Will second the opinion that it's actually a good climb. Good holds hide on quartzite! I used a #1 and a black alien to protect the upper section, although you really have many options.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Wheeler-Newsome Wall : Tick Fever (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I succumbed to the tick fever today. Would be interested in hearing how others did the crux. I eventually worked out the crux sequence after the fact, but wow, is it burly! Will have to go back for the RP.

Video of my attempt here (most of it is played at 16x with the exception of the fall):



Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Early Bird : Bed Head (5.9+)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Well, it's worth it for the finishing move. And it's a few pounds cleaner today after my friend and I pulled and pushed rock off of it while climbing.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Loch Ness Monster (5.10d)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 1, 2014

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Comments: Not sure it's worth the effort. Good if you need one more burn after rappelling the buttress, but beyond that, there's not much.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Ginseng (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 1, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I believe the initial "barn door" moves as described in the guidebook were for when the anchor was not present. The crack above takes standard nuts or a green alien down low, opening up to a nice #0.3-#0.4 at the top before the final opening moves.

The crux is short and ends at a glory jug. Sew it up or gun for it!

The climb is definitely worthy and a great alternative if Sasquatch has a queue.


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