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Cams above the arm bar moves on Three Pigs in a Sl...


Member Since: Aug 23, 2007
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 655
Total Points: 991
Last Year: 291
Last 30 Days: 40
14 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Charlie S been climbing?










Contributions


All 970 | Routes 20 | Areas 4 | Photos 122 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 118 | Posts 211 | Stars 391 | Ratings 103
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
An update on Greg's photo.  It has two additional ...

An update on Greg's photo. It has two additional rap stations shown for the lower half of The Thumb.

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Thumb Area

Nov 29, 2011

November sunset on The Thumb.

November sunset on The Thumb.

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Thumb Area

Nov 27, 2011

After the initial hairy traverse, it's not too bad...

After the initial hairy traverse, it's not too bad!

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Variety Delight (5.7)

Nov 5, 2011

Climbing "Leggo My Eggo"

Climbing "Leggo My Eggo"

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Leggo My Eggo (5.10a)

Nov 5, 2011

Belaying next to the "Diving Board" atop...

Belaying next to the "Diving Board" atop "Northwest Passage" in BCC.

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Northwest Passage (5.10c)

Oct 29, 2011

Starting out on Bushwhack Crack

Starting out on Bushwhack Crack

Charlie S : Climbing Pictures

Oct 22, 2011

Climbing "Leggo My Eggo" in LCC

Climbing "Leggo My Eggo" in LCC

Charlie S : Climbing Pictures

Aug 17, 2011

Deformed bolts #2

Deformed bolts #2

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Comment

Jun 26, 2011

Deformed bolts #1

Deformed bolts #1

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Comment

Jun 26, 2011

Bushwhack Crack, LCC, Utah

Bushwhack Crack, LCC, Utah

Charlie S : Climbing Pictures

Jul 26, 2009

The crack to the lower right is the top of the 5.1...

The crack to the lower right is the top of the 5.10 TR climb "Toiling Men." Since I didn't climb it, I won't post a description. Oh yeah, you can also camp up there.

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Right of Ladder

May 29, 2008

Right Buttress from Left Buttress

Right Buttress from Left Buttress

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Right of Ladder

May 29, 2008

The top of Pond View Slab

The top of Pond View Slab

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Pond View Slab

May 29, 2008

Crane Mountain Pond from Pond View Slab

Crane Mountain Pond from Pond View Slab

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Crane Mountain

May 29, 2008

Crane Mountain Pond in the morning.

Crane Mountain Pond in the morning.

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Crane Mountain

May 29, 2008

Crane Mountain from Crane Mountain Pond.

Crane Mountain from Crane Mountain Pond.

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Crane Mountain

May 29, 2008

So close, but still not close enough.

So close, but still not close enough.

NY : Little Falls : ... : Spiderman (5.11d)

Dec 15, 2007

The top of the roof is the crux.

The top of the roof is the crux.

NY : Little Falls : ... : Spiderman (5.11d)

Dec 15, 2007

Rappelling off the top.

Rappelling off the top.

NY : Little Falls : ... : Spiderman (5.11d)

Dec 15, 2007

Spiderman from the side.  Unsuccessful attempt.

Spiderman from the side. Unsuccessful attempt.

NY : Little Falls : ... : Spiderman (5.11d)

Dec 15, 2007

End of the first pitch of Jackie

End of the first pitch of Jackie

Charlie S : Climbing Pictures

Dec 15, 2007

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Asbury Park : ... : The Traditionalist (5.11d)
By: Charlie S When: Feb 25, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This route can be broken into 3 distinct sections:
1, a powerful set of moves to pull the overhang,
2, a tenuous, albeit fun, middle crack section, and finally,
3, an incredibly strong and cryptic set of moves to pull the final bulge followed by easy but "don't screw up" climbing to the chains.

May be a sandbag at 5.11d, using the moves from Bound for Glory (5.12b) and Pocket Loverboy (5.11c) as a comparison.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : Patina Atoll (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Feb 14, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: So good! Every crux was memorable and required some element of thinking.

You don't need gear for the top if you don't want to haul it. Once you get off of the rib, there's about 30' to the next bolt before chains, but the climbing is probably around 5.4.

However, the space between bolts #2 and #3 is...spacious!


Location: UT : Saint George : Utah Hills : The Snakepit : Sega (5.10)
By: Charlie S When: Jan 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The Goss guidebook suggests 5.11a. I'd go at 5.10+...ish. A few interesting moves but nothing in the 5.11 territory. Feet are nice and sticky.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Gordon's Direct (5.11b R)
By: Charlie S When: Jan 7, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is a really good route. Don't worry about the 5.9R section. It's straightforward and "juggy" compared to nearly all the other 5.9s in the immediate vicinity.

BETA ALERT:

The crux isn't the reach, but rather, getting to it. Two falls at this point. A nice clean ride into space!


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