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Cams above the arm bar moves on Three Pigs in a Slot, Indian Creek.


Member Since: Aug 23, 2007
Last Visit: 19 hours ago
Contact Charlie S


Point Rank: # 809
Total Points: 736
Last Year: 324
Last 30 Days: 22
8 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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All (691) | Routes (15) | Areas (4) | Photos (88) | Comments (86) | Posts (141) | Stars (275) | Ratings (82)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - North : Strawberry Jam (5.10)
By: Charlie S When: Aug 17, 2013

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Comments: A most peculiar start that's not easy to figure out by looking at it.

Beta Alert!


Go to the right of the bolt, work your way up, find a hidden crimp to reach the crack with your left hand.

Don't go to the left of the bolt. Tried that variation several times at full extension and took several 10-footers.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Brighton's Frighton Wall
By: Charlie S When: Aug 4, 2013

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Comments: These are below Lake Mary, and perhaps a decent distance below.

The approach is not straight forward if you are intercepted by the girls' camp's counselors. We were about to set foot in the woods when a counselor redirected us. Not entirely sure where to go, we ended up going far east, up a ski run, and then iso-lining back to the cliff.

If you take that route, you'll be bushwhacking. You want a narrow, talus gulley.

If you can hop into the woods below the girls' camp and shoot straight up... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Brighton's Frighton Wall : Twinkie's Hatchet (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Aug 3, 2013

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Comments: A lot of groveling to get the too-short-but-awesome handcrack above.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Brighton's Frighton Wall : Rusty Blade (5.8+)
By: Charlie S When: Aug 3, 2013

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Comments: A most curious series of protection. But the moves are all there.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : East Hellgate : ... : Los Crudos (5.8)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: Start to the right of a detached pillar, slightly right of where the approach trails meets the wall.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon
By: Charlie S When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: Access issues. Note schedule of lane closures:
ogdencanyonh2o.com/ogdencanyonH2O/index.html

Last time I was up there, the entire south lane (the one used to access the climbing walls) was completely dug up.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Sasquatch (5.9+)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 20, 2013

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Comments: One of the best cracks in Little Cottonwood. I think it's harder than Green A, but whatever. Doesn't change the quality!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : East Hellgate : ... : Wisky Bench (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 19, 2013

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Comments: The route is significantly cleaner than previous comments suggest. Still some cleaning to go, but it is a worthy and long climb.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : East Hellgate : ... : Antidote (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 19, 2013

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Comments: Apart from the worthless route description, the route is quite good, though the rating is soft.

This route starts just to the left of the pillar at the top of the approach trail. You can get a hand jam in at the beginning for kicks and giggles.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Cecret Lake : ... : GR 6 (5.10-)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 13, 2013

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Comments: Loose rock. Lichen. Rock piles waiting to be dropped on your belayer. Worth it if you're ticking the wall, but otherwise, there are better trad lines on this wall.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Cecret Lake : ... : Stinky Buddy (5.10-)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 13, 2013

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Comments: Another fun one! There is no truth-in-advertising for the very last few moves.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Cecret Lake : ... : Stinky Stash (5.9+)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 13, 2013

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Comments: Found this to be an enjoyable climb with a little mix of everything.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Cecret Lake : ... : GR 2 (5.10)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 13, 2013

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Comments: I nominate this climb be called "Skid Marks," due to the lichen/black streaks on the way up. A fun route with some mentally stimulating gear.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Summit Wall : Triple Overhangs (5.10a) : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Jul 3, 2013

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Comments: We used this topo before heading off on the climb. Many thanks! Made it super clear.

We were able to find and clip both bolts. The "R" section is a mere 15 feet on patina.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Summit Wall : Triple Overhangs (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Jun 29, 2013

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Comments: Found the crux pitch to really be in the #0.75 to #1 range, opening up to #2s for the last overhang and then the 5.8 hand crack portion above it.

We brought 2 #3s, but only used one for the Vertical Smile portion.

An amazing route. The cruxes sure make you winded at 11,000 feet!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - East : Stress Fracture (5.10b PG13)
By: Charlie S When: Jun 16, 2013

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Comments: Very difficult start. Yellow alien up high (work the feet). Get in a marginal hand jam, place a #2, and then you can completely pull the start.

For the roof, place a #3 at the beginning. And then although it looks scary, trust the face holds, and move out to the lip of the roof. At the lip, place a #4. Bump it as you move up! Otherwise, the rope will get stuck between the cam and the rock. I did that with a #5, and it was a royal hassle to free the rope. Save som... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - East : Beauty and the Beast (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Jun 16, 2013

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Comments: Well, there's now a near perma-nut at the top of the starting crack. Didn't fall on it, but trying to budge it out with rocks, hexes, and yanks did nothing. Would definitely catch a fall. Enjoy the booty if you can get it out!


Location: UT : Public Comments needed on L...
By: Charlie S When: Jun 7, 2013

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Comments: I sent a message to the SLCA saying the same thing.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Charlie's Pillar (5.8)
By: Charlie S When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: Misled by the guidebook, I took the offwidth start as opposed to the flake start. Does this have its own first ascent? It was good with fun chimneying and a full-on body jam near where the flake and larger crack meet up. Would suggest 5.9+ish for the "direct" start.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : The Potato (5.10)
By: Charlie S When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: Second loose block has been removed as of 5/25/2013. After it ate 3 of my fingers.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Unnamed 5.10 - just after t... (5.10)
By: Charlie S When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: No, the photo currently posted is not Linkage. This route sits around the right of a large detached flake/block/pillar. Right before the flake/block/pillar reads a plaque: "Knobby Tires." Since Linkage is to the left of Knobby Tires, this can't be Linkage.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Linkage (5.10b/c)
By: Charlie S When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: No, the photo currently posted is not Linkage. This route sits around the right of a large detached flake/block/pillar. Right before the flake/block/pillar reads a plaque: "Knobby Tires." Since Linkage is to the left of Knobby Tires, this can't be Linkage.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Owl Rock : Owl Rock - West : Snack Break Direct (5.8)
By: Charlie S When: May 12, 2013

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Comments: The photo for this goes to "Snack Break," not Snack Break Direct. There is a bolted line about 10 feet to the left. 3 bolts, unless you find a way to get cams in somewhere.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Owl Rock : Owl Rock - West : Night Vision (5.10b PG13)
By: Charlie S When: May 12, 2013

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Comments: The "PG13" rating refers to the 25 or so feet from your last piece of trad gear to the next bolt.

The boulder start requires fine footwork, but a good stance can be made about 15' up to place a Black Alien (or equivalent) into the overhanging crack, followed shortly thereafter by a series of nut and cam options. Height helps. This would be difficult/committing for shorter individuals.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area
By: Charlie S When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: It is possible to rap the entire buttress down the main face using double 60m ropes. Some are a stretch, and the first couple of raps are so low angle that you'll be fighting with the rope.


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